4g93 Mivec Turbo Waja project(Many pictures be warned)

duuude.. how much was that spal?

You ask your friend la i got from him wan haha

Small Original intercooler hidden under the bumper towards the right side of the car

ohhh no wonder. Well mine is quite large Evo 4 intercooler up front so yeah... :laugh:

Anyway, more goodies just came in :burnout:

Bushings for my front lower arms are shot, so got some sweet aussie SuperPro PU bushing with caster correction and anti-lift properties :biggrin:

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Got some springs from my friend to swap my overrated '1 bar' spring to
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Also just sent my manifold to the guy to weld, close up of the crack :banghead:
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You ask your friend la i got from him wan haha



ohhh no wonder. Well mine is quite large Evo 4 intercooler up front so yeah... :laugh:


Also just sent my manifold to the guy to weld, close up of the crack :banghead:
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Yup, all original including bumper that is plug and play.

Welding should just leave the weld as is. Looks like previous ones was shave clean and maybe was too thin.....
 
Yup, all original including bumper that is plug and play.

Welding should just leave the weld as is. Looks like previous ones was shave clean and maybe was too thin.....

Ok la, stock everything also good, less headache :banghead:

What you mean leave the weld as is?

Manifold removed
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Swapping out the actuator springs, hopefully this will give me a base 0.7bar boost
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Simple workings of the actuator.
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Speaking of fans, got ANOTHER SPAL puller fan this time to replace the aged Maradyne just for good measure. This one has a thicker and larger motor compared to the 13" pusher i bought and flows alot of air :biggrin:

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Middle is the new SPAL puller, on the right is the SPAL pusher and on the left with the gold sticker is the old Maradyne.
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Cool original SPAL bracket for my pusher. Need this if installing for pusher setup as conventional bracket will have it flush with the fan, leaving you no way to actually use bolts at the bracket.
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And also bought a super fast reaction open-element NTC Intake Air Temperature sensor to replace the standard Mitsubishi closed-element style sensor.
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Bro, gotta skip the Maradyne fan as earlier suggested. Funds too tight this round.

Actuator = wastegate?
 
Bro, gotta skip the Maradyne fan as earlier suggested. Funds too tight this round.

Actuator = wastegate?

see how la, maybe just keep one side see who want haha.

And yes, i'm still using my stock turbo flapper 'wastegate', so the actuator controls that flapper
 
Some update, manifold came back already and is already installed
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When you buy a new manifold or when welding an old one, make sure you check for welding splatters which may come loose and wreak havoc on your turbine wheel. Saw this and grinded it off with a porting tool.
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Also managed to replace my front LH side lower arm bush yesterday. Relatively easy to DIY, just 4 bolts literally. The front circular bush just hammer out and the rear square bush have to hold the bush with a bench vice and pry the arm out.
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Old forward bush was really worn out and had freeplay in it, rubber also hardened and cracked already. These bush most probably was since the car came out from the factory in 2001.
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With the new bush installed.
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Installed the lower arm bush myself in around 1-2 hours time, will continue with the RH side later today. Do myself because mau save labour abit :laugh: . The forward bush was hard to get aligned because the rear bush hole is offset making the front bush offset slightly with the hole, have to use some brute force to get the bolt through.

Note to those interested in using PU bush, PU bushes NEEDS grease to work, please apply the grease that comes together with your bushing kit or search for Silicone Grease. If your PU bushing kit does not comes with or the seller claims it does not need grease, just walk away....
 
Handling must be awesome with that kinda bushes.. and that weld splatter, I was watching all these car shows on youtube and the cause for this splatter is no argon gas used when welding? I dunno what the term is but I see the way they weld these pipes, they first seal the pipe off, feed argon gas in and then only weld on top. Something about oxidation or something something.
 
Handling must be awesome with that kinda bushes.. and that weld splatter, I was watching all these car shows on youtube and the cause for this splatter is no argon gas used when welding? I dunno what the term is but I see the way they weld these pipes, they first seal the pipe off, feed argon gas in and then only weld on top. Something about oxidation or something something.

Not too sure about that, this one I think macam the fella weld managed to go all the way through to the metal as he only welded the outside. And locally in Malaysia I think it would be very hard to find somebody welding using that method. Maybe Tong Turbo does it but their manifolds are like triple of what I paid for mine :laugh:
 
My car is done for now, manifold welded and installed, oil pump changed, new SPAL fans installed and running.

The fans sounds louder than my engine now! Sounds like a bloody aircraft is taking off! Tested in the hot afternoon after letting the car cook for awhile, the aircond runs cool when idling under the hot sun now and the aircond cools down pretty quickly as compared to before, like how it used to be when it was 4g18! Fans are important guys, get a SPAL if you're replacing your standard fans.


Also these fans really KICK in, voltage from 13.5v, dips briefly to 12.7v then stabilises around 13.2v with my headlamps, aircond and all running. Now worried my alternator might not be up to the challenge to supply all the current. Next project maybe to install a supercapacitor to stabilize the voltage drop caused by the inrush current of the fans...


Also, PU bushings are awesome! Now the arm doesn't flex as much when the LSD chatters, yet to test the benefits of the 'anti lift' and extra castor feature of the bush, but steering feels pretty spot on during some mild corners. Actuator spring also performing almost just the way I want, giving me 0.6-0.67bar of boost with just the spring, will bring it up to 1.2bar with boost control in the near future.
 
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13.2v is a good figure during idle.
no need to worry about your alternator.

Upgrading to higher capacity wont show better figure during idle as the current output is low at idling rpm.Alternator output graph is similar to hp graph of an engine.
 
Battery voltage is around 12.4 to 12.6, anything above 13 is still charging the battery
 

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