4g93 Mivec Turbo Waja project(Many pictures be warned)

[jay_lancer]

Thanks for the detailed post, it could be a very useful reference for me if I want to evolve my 4G92 Mivec Lancer as it is using similar tech as your Waja.

Love it, just need the time and the $$ LOL

 

[Nightstalker1993]

Thanks for the detailed post, it could be a very useful reference for me if I want to evolve my 4G92 Mivec Lancer as it is using similar tech as your Waja.

Love it, just need the time and the $$ LOL

Glad it could help others around. Another thing I forgot to mention in my post is to use the 4agze pistons with the 4g93 crank you'll have to machine the corners of the piston skirt slightly so that it can clear the counterweight . If you have all the items in hand you will realise it pretty clearly.

 

[y2188]

mana ada o, i drive slow slow only :sleep:



burnout cover picture more lanci



fastest jack on the road



Thanks! Still far from complete though, even the brakes are still stocks :rolleyes:

My car entered workshop around end of October 2015, and engine started only around July 2017, during that period I rode motorbike only

Sien, thought that i can have some fun as anonymous hahha

Glad it could help others around. Another thing I forgot to mention in my post is to use the 4agze pistons with the 4g93 crank you'll have to machine the corners of the piston skirt slightly so that it can clear the counterweight . If you have all the items in hand you will realise it pretty clearly.

eh the skirt, how do you machine it? like a tri-angle shape maintaining the skirt's length?

 

[Nightstalker1993]

Sien, thought that i can have some fun as anonymous hahha



eh the skirt, how do you machine it? like a tri-angle shape maintaining the skirt's length?

there's a reason why my nick is nightstalker :cool:

I also not sure, I only remember measuring it agak2 need to cut how much then workshop sent to machine shop and cut.

 

[stupidcar]

fastest subang in hong

This guy seems familar

 

[Nightstalker1993]

This guy seems familar

This guy also seem familiar. Wow I join earlier than you

 

[punk]

ACL Race bearings for the conrod as I couldn't source the MIVEC conrod bearings and the conrod bearings seem to have no difference in design unlike the main bearings.

Hi Sifu,

How to properly select for ACL bearing for conrod? I heard aftermarket dont have any marking number on it.

My Stock proton have number "2" marking for all 4 conrod.

TQ

 

[Nightstalker1993]

Hi Sifu,

How to properly select for ACL bearing for conrod? I heard aftermarket dont have any marking number on it.

My Stock proton have number "2" marking for all 4 conrod.

TQ

Not too sure about selecting conrod bearings in relation to that, but in the 4g9x manual they mentioned about checking the reading on the crank for the factory which is determined by the crankshaft journal dimensions, which means they have 3 different bearings for different factory sizes. But then again if you had polished your crank it may not be as accurate as it should.

These sizes are only applicable if you purchase the original mitsubishi conrod bearings, which I cannot source locally, probably can get from Amayama though.

Rule of thumb is to check the bearing clearances using plastigauge on every bearing and check with the manufacturer's recommended clearance and if all is good then it's ok.

 

[sanekit]

nice build! may i know where you bought the welding cables, the battery and the circuit breaker and roughly how much the price is?

 

[Izso]

Nightstalker dude : The 150A circuit breaker is essential ke? I think I need to add this

 

[sweelt]

Nightstalker dude : The 150A circuit breaker is essential ke? I think I need to add this

I use ANL fuse during relocate battery to rear. Circuit breaker more user friendly.
Cable shorts, BBQ the car.

 

[Nightstalker1993]

Nightstalker dude : The 150A circuit breaker is essential ke? I think I need to add this

If your battery is behind and you're running a looong line to the front(which is confirmed), then you will definitely need some kind of fuse to protect from short circuit in case the long line gets severed in a crash or wear and tear due to chafing etc and cause a short circuit. Those large cables combined with the low internal resistance of our lead acid battery, will cause it to pull like more than 1000amps(in theory) if it short circuits and will produce god loads amount of heat within the battery itself and the cable probably causing the battery to explode or fireworks show at the cables causing fire in a worst case scenario.

The reason I chose a circuit breaker is because it have a lower resistance than a comparable 150amp fuse and I can easily disconnect the electrical system in case I want to do maintenance relating to the electrical system. Alot easier than removing the reinstalling the terminals.

nice build! may i know where you bought the welding cables, the battery and the circuit breaker and roughly how much the price is?

Thanks! I bought the welding cables here, the '500A' version which as you can see in the specs provided it's 70mm^2 cross-sectional diameter which puts it at an equivalent of a 00 gauge cable which should be 67mm^2. Don't believe those amperage ratings as they are all purely marketing. If the cables are copper, the load carrying capacity is solely dependent on the cross-sectional diameter of the cable and nothing else.

Battery is from a company called 'Gama Alliance' in puchong and the battery is an MSB MS12-65 ULTRA which I see one person selling in Lelong as well, but I remember purchasing from that company slightly cheaper. These are high quality AGM VRLA cells and not your normal car battery, these are meant for deep discharge which was why i opted for the larger size to compensate slightly as deep discharge batteries have a higher internal resistance compared to your usual car batteries which is designed for high current supply for a short period of time. Crimping and terminal lugs is done by a company called 'Conway' in Klang and he charged me a decent price but he told me he don't usually offer crimping services as their core business is selling the terminal lugs and crimping tool.

Circuit breaker was bought on eBay here. Don't get those china circuit breaker which can be bought for like rm20-50 or so as they're pretty crap, already broke one and another one i swapped to this as I was not confident in the China unit.

Hope this helps! Took me very long to source the batteries, cables, terminal lugs/crimping and circuit breaker when I was planning it last time though.

 

[marsha1l_v6]

nice build there....and thanks for the sharing..

how long does it take to rebuild since you engine spitted out piston?

 

[Nightstalker1993]

nice build there....and thanks for the sharing..

how long does it take to rebuild since you engine spitted out piston?

Thanks!

Engine spat out it's piston on late October 2015 if I remembered correctly. First startup was July 2017, so almost 2 years. Engine actually went into the car in late 2016 so it was sitting there after I assembled it for almost a year before starting which is why it rusted so bad. In between that I rode motorbike. Anybody interested in a Suzuki VS125? :rolleyes:

I use ANL fuse during relocate battery to rear. Circuit breaker more user friendly.
Cable shorts, BBQ the car.

Yeah that's the more common option. But circuit breaker have lesser resistance than an ANL fuse of comparable amperage rating so that's another reason as well. My car starts as if the battery is in front, very strong start everytime

 

[Izso]

Yeah that's the more common option. But circuit breaker have lesser resistance than an ANL fuse of comparable amperage rating so that's another reason as well. My car starts as if the battery is in front, very strong start everytime

Where'd you buy the breaker from? I think I need to get one.

 

[Nightstalker1993]

Where'd you buy the breaker from? I think I need to get one.

There's a link at post #32. I installed the breaker ar the negative side as I don't want the terminals to be live and possible of shorting

 

[sanekit]

There's a link at post #32. I installed the breaker ar the negative side as I don't want the terminals to be live and possible of shorting

I dont see the links.. :hmmmm:

 

[Nightstalker1993]

I dont see the links.. :hmmmm:

I linked it in the word 'here', as in I bought it 'here'

 

[parakey]

I dont see the links.. :hmmmm:

Nah. HERE < https ://www.ebay.com.my/itm/Stinger-R-SCBM150-Marine-Circuit-Breaker-150-Amps-/253000151030?hash=item3ae7fbeff6

 

[sweelt]

Thanks!

Yeah that's the more common option. But circuit breaker have lesser resistance than an ANL fuse of comparable amperage rating so that's another reason as well. My car starts as if the battery is in front, very strong start everytime

i can see you use black color pure copper cable. Yup engine start easily.
Orange color welding cable not that cunn in long run, just copper plating. No harm to invest more.