4g93 Mivec Turbo Waja project(Many pictures be warned)



how u tighten the flywheel bolt without slip?

u using airgun or by hand?

i slip one of my bolt using 17mm hexagon socket.

Or i should using inch socket?

 

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Nah. HERE < https ://www.ebay.com.my/itm/Stinger-R-SCBM150-Marine-Circuit-Breaker-150-Amps-/253000151030?hash=item3ae7fbeff6

Should had bolded the link in the original post, have to squint eyes to find back the 'here' word if never read the whole post properly :rofl:

i can see you use black color pure copper cable. Yup engine start easily.
Orange color welding cable not that cunn in long run, just copper plating. No harm to invest more.

Colour of the sleeve can be anything, orange also can be pure copper, but I guess in our market there seems to be higher amount of cheap cables with the orange insulation thus making people think orange insulation = not pure copper.

Also another extremely important factor is the cross-sectional diameter/AWG of the cable. Most local welding cable seems to be graded by 'amp' like 300a, 500a etc which is ridiculous and have no standard at all. I went to the welding shop and compared different cables rated '500a' and they differ in AWG wildly, also prices. It's like advertising 'watts' in audio amps, but the actual wattage is no where near the real RMS watt the amps can push out. Since the positive cable is uaully 4-5m long, our car battery system operates at a relatively 'low' 12v and starters usually pulling around 50-100amps, the higher AWG cable(thinner cable) will greatly increase the resistance of the cable and cause a voltage drop during cranking given V = IR representing voltage drop. So in short, longer cable/smaller diameter cable will cause an increase in resistance in the overall cable and increase voltage drop during cranking, which means there is less available voltage at the starter and thus causing 'weak' starter. The cable I chose has a 70mm^2 cross-sectional diameter which is roughly equivalent to 00 AWG cable.

Then again my battery system is greatly overkill as I've heard people running great with only 4AWG cable. Also my battery is rated to discharge 100A for 10 minutes from a full charge, so technically my battery can survive cranking the starter continuously for 10 minutes, just probably not the starter :biggrin:



how u tighten the flywheel bolt without slip?

u using airgun or by hand?

i slip one of my bolt using 17mm hexagon socket.

Or i should using inch socket?


I use an airgun with a 6-sided impact socket and need to make sure the socket sits properly as even a slight misalignment can cause it to slip. You can try inches see if it fits better or not, but I'm not sure of the effectivity of that
 
Anyway, just did a shakedown up Ulu Yam 2 days ago and the car performed quite well, datalogs of AFR, fuel pressure and oil pressure were good. The only issue was overheating power steering pump which presented itself with a whining sound as if my car had a supercharger when I reached the guardhouse, PS fluid boiling and overflowing and thermometer gun showing 130c when i first checked, probably hit 140-150c at the hottest. Tires were better than expected considering they are 2014 RE002's in 205/50/15. Still need to get used to the way the LSD handles but feels great being able to throttle into and during the corner as well without wheelspinning and/or understeering :biggrin:

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This was showing 130c when i first measured
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And when I reached home, found out this :bawling:
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Next up on to-do list would be power steering fluid cooler, now just need to find out where i can fit it. All the space in my engine bay had already been used up :banghead:
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Because apparently the Lancer CK4A MIVEC RS came with power steering cooler :banghead:
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The only issue was overheating power steering pump which presented itself with a whining sound as if my car had a supercharger when I reached the guardhouse, PS fluid boiling and overflowing and thermometer gun showing 130c when i first checked, probably hit 140-150c at the hottest.
Why would power steering oil overheat? Is it related to the oil as in they havent been changed in a long time, or maybe contaminated with water? Or is your hydraulic system overheating from overpressure?

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Rust issue also a bit wierd. My car also left idle in open parking for a long time. Havent encountered such rusting before.
 
Why would power steering oil overheat? Is it related to the oil as in they havent been changed in a long time, or maybe contaminated with water? Or is your hydraulic system overheating from overpressure?

ukQHiBI.jpg


Rust issue also a bit wierd. My car also left idle in open parking for a long time. Havent encountered such rusting before.

Well apparently it's quite common for many cars to boil over or overheat during aggressive driving. I hadn't encountered this before on my old 4g18 engine and ps pump though and I've driven the same route many many times already. Plus my power steering pump is meant to work with a cooler anyway so I guess I'll just have to find a way to install a cooler. Oil was put in when my engine came out, around 5000km ago?

Last time I didn't install the rubber cover as I installed the damper adjuster knob so water can get to there. I remember the top mounts weren't that old

Oh! you joined the Saturday morning drive......:driver:

Yeah I joined, was in the ulu yam push group 1. Didn't really walk around much when we were up there as I am still recovering from my slip disk injury so can't mingle much and survey other nice cars :bawling:
 
Well apparently it's quite common for many cars to boil over or overheat during aggressive driving. I hadn't encountered this before on my old 4g18 engine and ps pump though and I've driven the same route many many times already. Plus my power steering pump is meant to work with a cooler anyway so I guess I'll just have to find a way to install a cooler. Oil was put in when my engine came out, around 5000km ago?

Wierd indeed. I've never expected hydraulic fluid to overheat like this. Car's hydraulic system isn't supposed to be overtaxed like this. That's why our hydraulic reservoirs are so small.
 
Wierd indeed. I've never expected hydraulic fluid to overheat like this. Car's hydraulic system isn't supposed to be overtaxed like this. That's why our hydraulic reservoirs are so small.

yeah plus probably now with the LSD, so with more forces kicking back into the steering as well. If normal everyday drive the power steering fluid gets nowhere near that hot haha

I think probably in Sepang also it wouldn't hit such high temperatures as in Sepang the corners will be quite smooth and not as sudden as Ulu Yam
 
When you mentioned 'PS fluid boiling and overflowing', I was wondering if water got into your hyd fluid
 
When you mentioned 'PS fluid boiling and overflowing', I was wondering if water got into your hyd fluid

I highly doubt it as the fluids were fresh 5000km. It probably wasn't boiling, maybe overheated and foaming causing it to expand and overflow, and the fluid SEEMS to be bubbling in the reservoir. Whatever it is, I measured 130c+ when i stopped , probably was 140-150c at it's hottest.
 
what a journey for an awesome build, looks like it pulls very well too
more videos please
 
I highly doubt it as the fluids were fresh 5000km. It probably wasn't boiling, maybe overheated and foaming causing it to expand and overflow, and the fluid SEEMS to be bubbling in the reservoir. Whatever it is, I measured 130c+ when i stopped , probably was 140-150c at it's hottest.

Could you PS hoses be running close to something hot?
 
what a journey for an awesome build, looks like it pulls very well too
more videos please

Yes will post more videos next time when I make them haha. That video is at 0.5bar boost, now it's up to 0.8bar on 2nd gear onwards. Hope to target 1.2bar on a final tune, should be way more than adequate. Also am sourcing for Mivec gear ratios because the gap between 1st and 2nd gear is too ridiculous!

Could you PS hoses be running close to something hot?

That's a possibility too as my power steering pump is literally right next to the turbo manifold. Am planning to custom a manifold heat shield soon to keep engine bay temps down.
 
Is it possible to polish the engine head without doing benchflow? Will the engine balance ?

Just polish the surface without porting it.
 
That's a possibility too as my power steering pump is literally right next to the turbo manifold. Am planning to custom a manifold heat shield soon to keep engine bay temps down.

Like mine I could not find a matching alternator, so the shop gave me a perdana unit that is similar in size but the wiring point is slightly shifted. After using a few months found the socket melted because closer to exhaust manifold.....:banghead:
 
Like mine I could not find a matching alternator, so the shop gave me a perdana unit that is similar in size but the wiring point is slightly shifted. After using a few months found the socket melted because closer to exhaust manifold.....:banghead:

wahhh your alternator is near the exhaust wan ar what car worr? I think I see most protons and mitsubishi like the alternator is behind the block intake manifold that side and near exhaust is power steering and aircond pump? :hmmmm:
 

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