How to DIY adjustable coilovers?

[BoxCarRacer]

Guys,

I just bought an adjustable coilovers for my car and plan to install it soon. Its a soft/hard/high/low kit. I have searched, googled & asked around some friends for tips & advice but none of them can give a very clear & the same answers. I found out there are many factors that need to be considered rather than simply installing it.

The most common issue when i was browsing the web is the PRELOAD setting. From my understanding, PRELOAD means when your coilover height is adjusted so that the spring is already compressed before the weight of the car sits on it. I wonder i got it right there. They say, when you purchase a brand new coilovers, the spring height is already been set for the car preload. Is it true? I am a bit worried as I have played around with the spring height when the kit arrive at my hand (too happy when I receive it I guess ) How to determine the correct factory preload setting?

What about the damper setting? Is it really necessary to use a weight cornering machine? can it be done manually by driving a few laps before setting it ourselves?

To those who is currently using/ DIY installed their adjustables on their car, I would appreciate it if you could share us your experience.

Thanks all!

 

[speed2horizon]

Guys,

I just bought an adjustable coilovers for my car and plan to install it soon. Its soft/hard/high/low kit. I have searched, googled & asked around some friends for tips & advice but none of them can give a very clear & the same answers. I found out there are many factors that need to be considered rather than simply installing it.

The most common issue when i was browsing was the PRELOAD setting. From my understanding, PRELOAD means when your coilover height is adjusted so that the spring is already compressed before the weight of the car sits on it. I wonder i got it right here. They say, when you purchase a brand new coilovers, the spring height is already been set for the car preload. Is it true? I a bit worried as I have played around with the spring height when the kit arrive at my hand (too happy when I receive it I guess )

What about the damper setting? Is it really necessary to use a weight cornering machine? can it be done manually by driving a few laps before setting it ourselves?

To those who is currently using/ DIY installed their adjustables on their car, I would appreciate it if you could share us your experience.

Thanks all!

This is what u'll have:
spring is no preloaded. Only the height is. If the spring are, u won't be able to PLAY AROUND with the double height adjustment rings. As u adjust the rings height, the shaft will go ip n down accordingly. No spring compression effect.

This is what we do. We measure the thread length from the lowest point of the thread to the ring bottom. We have all adjust to the same height.

Next have ur car jacked up and have the 4 coilovers installed. Ground ur tyres n check for height balance measuring height from the ground to the top of the wheel arc. If they are not, Reduce(rings down) or increase(rings up) the rings height to achieve a balance wheel arc height. Once 4 wheels achieved a balance height, determine if the height suits ur requirement. If the are, u can tighten the rings by holding the upper ring and turn the lower ring to create the jam effect between 2 rings so that the height will stay permanent.

If the are not, Reduce(rings down) or increase(rings up) the rings height. Do count the numbers or turns u've adjusted. Do remember the number of turns u've adjusted and apply the same number or turns to the remaining coilover. Double check for balance height.

Once height is confirm, tighten all the rings with the method mentioned earlier.

Damping rate adjustment: for best effect, what I normally do was turn to the hardest. Drive around, and reduce it daily until an acceptable hardness. Once acceptable hardness achieved, stay with it until u change ur setting again.

Do count the numbers or turns u've adjusted. if the height suits ur requirement. If they are, leave it as it is.

If they aren't jack up and have ur tyre removed. Reduce(rings down) or increase(rings up) the rings height. Do count the numbers or turns u've adjusted.

 

[BoxCarRacer]

speed2horizon,

When you adjust your damping rate, do you set both front & rear the same "hardness" or you set like 60/40 setting?

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

normally for FF car i'll prefer harder bump/rebound setting on rear (with slightly lowered rear compared to front)...especially for short wheelbase car..to avoid rear jumping around.....


on the front my setup would be medium bump...and slightly hard rebound (than bump setting)



*s2h...i'm afraid adjusting height by playing with spring collar u'll actually playing with pre-load on the spring...especially when there's not enough (or over) spring rate than needed (depends on car actual weight and personal preference)

to adjust car body height without interfeering with spring pre-load is to use fully independent adjustable coil-over like this

(*this as example not marketing)

u'll see 2 different collar...a set at the bottom of the spring...and another one near the absober kaki....

-u adjust the height by adjusting the collar at absorber "kaki" means u'll playing with absorber body level in relation to mounting point....this is the correct way to adjust car height....

but don't worry too much....the usual adjustable absorber was already good enough (provided u got the correct spring rate to use)....because normally the full body adjustable type used for racer to fine tuning the car suspension....

 

[speed2horizon]

speed2horizon,

When you adjust your damping rate, do you set both front & rear the same "hardness" or you set like 60/40 setting?

I have them same rate. The rear spring is softer anyway.

normally for FF car i'll prefer harder bump/rebound setting on rear (with slightly lowered rear compared to front)...especially for short wheelbase car..to avoid rear jumping around.....


on the front my setup would be medium bump...and slightly hard rebound (than bump setting)



*s2h...i'm afraid adjusting height by playing with spring collar u'll actually playing with pre-load on the spring...especially when there's not enough (or over) spring rate than needed (depends on car actual weight and personal preference)

to adjust car body height without interfeering with spring pre-load is to use fully independent adjustable coil-over like this

(*this as example not marketing)

u'll see 2 different collar...a set at the bottom of the spring...and another one near the absober kaki....

-u adjust the height by adjusting the collar at absorber "kaki" means u'll playing with absorber body level in relation to mounting point....this is the correct way to adjust car height....

but don't worry too much....the usual adjustable absorber was already good enough (provided u got the correct spring rate to use)....because normally the full body adjustable type used for racer to fine tuning the car suspension....

Nah... Dun worry about the preload stuff... I was misleaded by ppl once... Some abs doesn't have so many decks... But it doesn't matter. It won't precompress the spring... The spring rate will still be same.. adjusting the collar bring up n down the entire spring including the mount... So, there'll be no precompression.

I seconded the softer rear, but have a different opinion on the lowering rear part.... I would prefer the car to be at same level... If u have ur rear lower, it'll contribute to understeering... This is dangerous... if the car oversteer, countersteering is still possible.. But if a car understeer and skidded, it's the head that skids... can't control...

just personal opinion...

 

[BoxCarRacer]

^pomen_GTR^ / speed2horizon,

My concern was about the spring preload but after reading your post & some googling, it seems that it would not matter much since i am not using any pillowball mounting for the absorber. Like I said in the earlier post, one of the rear absorber, i ignorantly adjusted the two collar ring higher instead of unlocking the single locking ring and shift the shock higher. That was my mistake until i got it adjusted back to default height thanks from the help of the product company representative.

Now, i am more concern about the damping force distribution for front & rear. Fyi, I am using a satria neo & the adjustable is a 30 way damping, body height adjustable with a spring rate of 6K for front & 4K for rear.

 

[speed2horizon]

^pomen_GTR^ / speed2horizon,

My concern was about the spring preload but after reading your post & some googling, it seems that it would not matter much since i am not using any pillowball mounting for the absorber. Like I said in the earlier post, one of the rear absorber, i ignorantly adjusted the two collar ring higher instead of unlocking the single locking ring and shift the shock higher. That was my mistake until i got it adjusted back to default height thanks from the help of the product company representative.

Now, i am more concern about the damping force distribution for front & rear. Fyi, I am using a satria neo & the adjustable is a 30 way damping, body height adjustable with a spring rate of 6K for front & 4K for rear.

Adjust same only... all 4 same only...

 

[shiroitenshi]

You can try corner weighting, I think already available in Malaysia.. not sure which shop though. Try ask around.

 

[BoxCarRacer]

speed2horizon,

noted. will keep you posted on the result.

shiroitenshi,

I know Radical Chassis Solution (RCS) got but they are in Sunway. I am staying in JB. Any idea where can I get those services in JB?

 

[speed2horizon]

speed2horizon,

noted. will keep you posted on the result.

shiroitenshi,

I know Radical Chassis Solution (RCS) got but they are in Sunway. I am staying in JB. Any idea where can I get those services in JB?

U are driving ut car or the machine is driving ur car..? Sorry... Rude answer... But that's true u know... Ultimately, u feel it urself...

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

I have them same rate. The rear spring is softer anyway.



Nah... Dun worry about the preload stuff... I was misleaded by ppl once... Some abs doesn't have so many decks... But it doesn't matter. It won't precompress the spring... The spring rate will still be same.. adjusting the collar bring up n down the entire spring including the mount... So, there'll be no precompression.

I seconded the softer rear, but have a different opinion on the lowering rear part.... I would prefer the car to be at same level... If u have ur rear lower, it'll contribute to understeering... This is dangerous... if the car oversteer, countersteering is still possible.. But if a car understeer and skidded, it's the head that skids... can't control...

just personal opinion...

*i'm afraid i have to disagree with u about lower rear=more understeer....and slightly lower on rear is to induce a bit over steer so FF car can turn easier and to make the car height level during heavy braking (to lessen weight transfer onto front area of car during braking into corner)..in simple words a bit lower rear for FF car was to make it easier in turning for tight corner....

i bet u've seen some tonggek car (bontot higher than front)..that was the most dangerous setup for road car....all the car weight would focussed on front area exceeding the tyre grip limit and too much load on front tyre means easier to make the car understeer....i only agree if that setup used on FF drag car.....well that was my 2cents opinion and experience...


*to thread starter....about damping adjustment....the best is to adjust using "middle" level on all 4 side....then test drive+adjust according to your preference...

 

[shiroitenshi]

boxcar, sorry no idea about johore.

Thanks about the RCS info. I already heard about the company, but didn't know they did corner weighting.

Anyway, for people interested in adjusting ride height, I suggest reading about corner weighting. It's also related to the spring preload issue.

I wonder how people used to set their spring preload by just eyeballing it, and then say it's a very good setting. :P.

 

[BoxCarRacer]

speed2horizon,

I understand what you're trying to say but unfortunately, the lack of experience & knowledge what fails me to trust my own judgement

but no matter what they say, you would not know it unless you had some trial & error...

^pomen_GTR^ ,

I really tot that lowering the rear a bit is for Rear wheel drive car only since they need more traction on the rear. I didnt know it can be applied to FF car too. I did set my car a lil bit higher, a couple of mm, not the suicidal tonggek height la, when i change to a sports spring to compensate the weight of the spare wheel & extra passengers.

shiroitenshi,

I've read about it too. With it, you can determine the exact weight distribution of the car & trouble shoot it accordingly. Not many company here provide these services tho.

 

[speed2horizon]

*i'm afraid i have to disagree with u about lower rear=more understeer....and slightly lower on rear is to induce a bit over steer so FF car can turn easier and to make the car height level during heavy braking (to lessen weight transfer onto front area of car during braking into corner)..in simple words a bit lower rear for FF car was to make it easier in turning for tight corner....

i bet u've seen some tonggek car (bontot higher than front)..that was the most dangerous setup for road car....all the car weight would focussed on front area exceeding the tyre grip limit and too much load on front tyre means easier to make the car understeer....i only agree if that setup used on FF drag car.....well that was my 2cents opinion and experience...


*to thread starter....about damping adjustment....the best is to adjust using "middle" level on all 4 side....then test drive+adjust according to your preference...

Shouldn't that be done by the harder spring rate at the front...?

:hmmmm::hmmmm::hmmmm:

 

[infinity.melvin]

hey guys, wanna ask u all. i lost my adjustable adjuster spanar.. anyone know where to buy? are all spanars universal? or different adjustable uses diff spanar to adjust?
thanks!