DIY spring Stiffener

Penghanyut

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cant beleive many ppl here not even study secondary school.
no offence here, but some thing just almost as easy as common sense.
there are many nice people here giving good explaination and example here.
well its none of my business if anyone got the wrong idea or right idea. your mind is own by yourself.
That statement of yours is really unnecessary. We are here to discuss our views and we can't be correct all the time. I'm sure you, at some point of time, did misunderstood some informations which could be a "common sense" to others right? How would you feel if another person were to tell you that you did not complete your secondary school just because of that?
So if you can't accept discussion here, by all means, stop reading and posting. Bear in mind, there are people whom did not have the chance to complete their secondary school are doing very well and they speak much better English than yourself.

Back to topic.

am_izham,
Agreed with your point of view. :regular_smile:
 

GT_AUTO

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but, cutting a spring by just a coil doesn't increase the rate that much depending on the design of the original spring. let's make some examples: a spring that has an overall height of 10 inches and has 10 full coils, if we cut one(1) coil we will increase the rate by 10% and at the same time reduce the height by 1 inch.
izham,correct me if i'm wrong,but the example that u give is for race car.usually race car use linear type of spring.same as adjustable suspension(if i'm not mistaken).this type of spring only had 1 rate.for example 6 kg/mm.it need's 6 kg to compress 1 mm.if u need to compress another 1mm,u need another 6 kg.so that's mean u need 12 kg to compress a 6 kg/mm spring to 2mm.sport spring is different.sport spring is progressive type.the more u compress it,the stiffer it will be.for example u need 6 kg to compress the first mm.but when u need to compress another mm,u may need more force then the first.maybe 8kg-9kg n so on n so forth.this type of spring is suitable for street use to reduce body roll while maintaining ride comfort.
about cutting the spring,i've done it before in the late 90's n from what i've know,the spring will be stiffer cos u reduce the active spring.just my 50 cent.:regular_smile:
 

sam1741

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That statement of yours is really unnecessary. We are here to discuss our views and we can't be correct all the time. I'm sure you, at some point of time, did misunderstood some informations which could be a "common sense" to others right? How would you feel if another person were to tell you that you did not complete your secondary school just because of that?
So if you can't accept discussion here, by all means, stop reading and posting. Bear in mind, there are people whom did not have the chance to complete their secondary school are doing very well and they speak much better English than yourself.

Back to topic.

am_izham,
Agreed with your point of view. :regular_smile:

bro.. sorry.. no offence there also

just that sometimes i feel a bit frustrated
i saw above many many nice people being polite,
and very nicely explain things to those who mis-understood
but few just cant accept the truth...

i agree also, we cant be correct all the time.
but sometimes so many nice people explaining the right fact it to us
why not take some time to think with our common sense
and also take some time to do some research..
even me myself make mistake all the time
but i take time to listen to other people's explaination,
and i also accept the truth.

and i also agree with u
many people never have proper education do better than me.
cause they willing to learn, willing to listen,




back to the topic,

gt_auto : "about cutting the spring,i've done it before in the late 90's n from what i've know,the spring will be stiffer cos u reduce the active spring.just my 50 cent"
-- i totally agree... active coil is the key.. :)
 
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xtorm

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xcus me for the quality, taken with hp...

slot tis in between the spring n get stiffer rate, its a good diy for rm32 (8 each) u wil feel tat the spring stop goin down at some point.

u can choose the high, mine is 1 inch which fits my king spring nicely
 

simon

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i see so many ppl commenting on cutting spring...whether it stiffens the the spring or not...lets hear fr those actually using a cut spring in thier car...thats me lah...my is wira 1.5 & i have cut exactly 1 round of my standard coil spring from the top ( for front only) ....the rear i didnt cut at all.....

the ride feels a little harder than when i didnt cut....thats the truth !!!....i ride back to back with my company wira using standard springs so i can instantly tell the difference....the ride is stiff & a little bouncy only....its also feel nice in the highway as it doesnt bounce....cornering is acceptable level but of course not as good as when using sports coils...... one thing i want to make clear is its not dangerous / life threathing to cut spring (a little bit) as some people make it out to be...of course its very dangerous if you cut a lot....
 

sam1741

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yes... many ppl here have experience before
and many knows the physic behind it... cutting springs do make them harder..

but i agree with what simon say, if you know the limit and calculation, its actually not that dangerous. in fact u change to aftermarket spring.. some are made harder also...
some are tailor to the acceptence of stiffness of our stock absorber...
so cutting spring.. u must know how much to cut also.


in fact.. T*tan, the custom suspension shop, also cut springs to fits on their absorber, occationally. i read it in FAQ section last time.. when they still have a forum here in zth
 

am_izham

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and couple more arguments. u did mention linear and progressive spring rates. well, not all aftermarket springs have progressive rates. why? and why most of race cars are using linear rates? to answer this u need to understands how springs and shocks work and what are the purpose of both of these parts. i will assume that most of us already knows about this so i'm going simplify my arguments.

first, the springs. it's main purposes are 1. to support the weight of the car, 2. to isolate the sprung weight (chassis, engine, occupants, etc.) from the unsprung weight (wheels, tyres, brakes, etc.) to maximise comfort and/or traction.

second, the shock absorber. it's job is to suppress the spring's tendency to bounce nonstop. u see, if without shocks even long after ur car hits a bump it will continue to bounce. or simply said, if ur car doesnt have a shock
absorber ur car will be bumpy on ur ride from home to office and it will only stop when the car is not moving.

that's why it's very important to match the shocks damping ability (valving, piston size, oil viscosity & level, gas pressure on both compression and rebound) with the spring rate. that means, harder springs will need a harder shocks,as are softer springs will need a softer shocks, shorter springs will need a shorter shocks, as are longer springs will need a longer shocks. this is to make sure that the shocks can suppress/absorb the excess energy created by the springs.

now we know why race cars, most aftermarket springs, and manufacturers use linear spring rates, because its easier to make a shocks that responds only to one spring rate. and up until now i have yet to find a shock absorber that has a progressive damping.

also, that's why most people complains that after they fit a harder/lower spring (cut, compressed, aftermarket, or race) to their car they now have a very bumpy ride. this is because they match it with their stock shock absorber and now the shocks cannot absorb the force of the spring properly thus resulting in a very bumpy/bouncy ride.

for more, visit these sites:
1.Howstuffworks "How Car Suspensions Work"
2.AutoZine Technical School
3.Car Bibles : The Car Suspension Bible
 
Last edited:

Cknacci

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anyone knows any recommendation place to cut a H&R spring (mercedes)??
 

BoxShapeMeN

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harlow guys..

ever tried to re-tread yur absorber piston shaft?
nthen comperess yur spring(cutted) to get yur own tuned stiffness..
but need a lot of adjustment..
 

GT_AUTO

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harlow guys..

ever tried to re-tread yur absorber piston shaft?
nthen comperess yur spring(cutted) to get yur own tuned stiffness..
but need a lot of adjustment..
did it before 9 years ago....to avoid the shock bottoming out.:shades_smile:
 

AE82GT

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xcus me for the quality, taken with hp...

slot tis in between the spring n get stiffer rate, its a good diy for rm32 (8 each) u wil feel tat the spring stop goin down at some point.

u can choose the high, mine is 1 inch which fits my king spring nicely
bro, where u bought this? is it available at all spare parts shop? after fix this, will it get bumpy ride? Planning to do it my rear sport spring coz alil low, wanna make it higher...
 

GT_AUTO

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Dats mean u ord try ka bro?? Izit really works??
back then,it consider good cos at that time adjustable suspension
cost u an arm n a leg,hehehehe...i shorten it 1 inch n match it with
a cut spring.cut spring is stiff especially if u take off 2 1/2 coil of it.
so i match it with a gas absorber(gas tend to be stiffer then oil).
when u use stiff spring,u need stiff absorber.for me it's worth it
(back then).:_:
 

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