issit confirm brake pump died?

normality78

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ok. i've carry out the test based on this guide. http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake05.pdf

and i failed the test under section "air tightness test under load". My pedal immediately kick back. Also i think i semi-failed the booster operating check. The pedal did depressed but not by little, by alot.

so issit confirm brake pump died?
 
bro,

thank you for the pdf document....i need to run the tests too...im having doubts on my brakes as well.
 
ok. i've carry out the test based on this guide. http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/brake05.pdf

and i failed the test under section "air tightness test under load". My pedal immediately kick back. Also i think i semi-failed the booster operating check. The pedal did depressed but not by little, by alot.

so issit confirm brake pump died?

bro,may i know what ur brake problem is?
 
im having the same issue....ive already bleed my brake lines and it still feels the same.feels spongy and brakes does not respond as good as it used to be.
 
check for leaks behind the master pump cylinder. normally there would be signs fluid trailing down on the brake booster..you can see corrosion like effect like as if got acid poured on it...

If no....check all connection pipes and brake hoses for leaks.

If no ....check fluid level got drop.....

if no......your master pump might have internal pressure loss.that means when pumping the brake pedal.......fluid in the first cylinder would leak off to the second cylinder inside the pump itself... check if there is sufficient pressure coming out from both nozzles at the pump....

If no....probably u have to service your brake callipers....

cheers:proud:

If no......
 
check for leaks behind the master pump cylinder. normally there would be signs fluid trailing down on the brake booster..you can see corrosion like effect like as if got acid poured on it...

If no....check all connection pipes and brake hoses for leaks.

If no ....check fluid level got drop.....

if no......your master pump might have internal pressure loss.that means when pumping the brake pedal.......fluid in the first cylinder would leak off to the second cylinder inside the pump itself... check if there is sufficient pressure coming out from both nozzles at the pump....

If no....probably u have to service your brake callipers....

cheers:proud:

If no......

yes..dats true..but if there internal leak between 1st and 2nd cylinder..the brake warning will lights on i think..:hmmmm:
 
not exactly....... only if got no fluid in reservoir or handbrake switch got prob....

Bump: not exactly....... only if got no fluid in reservoir or handbrake switch got prob....
 
if spongy, could be air bubbles in brake line...

if brake pump failure, there will be leaks around ur brake pump... brake pump can be serviced with new seals...

if brake fluid reduced but no leak at brake pump, check all ur brake lines...

when u pump ur brakes and ur idle starts to fluctuate, brake servo could be punctured...
 
skywalker,
i bleed many many times liao. there is no leaking for sure and brake fluid stay the same.

So i think mabe its servo inside got problem. OR the hose connection is wrong coz i got remove the servo before Or some connection hose got leak
 
skywalker,
i bleed many many times liao. there is no leaking for sure and brake fluid stay the same.

So i think mabe its servo inside got problem. OR the hose connection is wrong coz i got remove the servo before Or some connection hose got leak
could be punctured servo...
 
not exactly....... only if got no fluid in reservoir or handbrake switch got prob....

Bump: not exactly....... only if got no fluid in reservoir or handbrake switch got prob....

yeah,u r right myb i am too advanced(always read top gear)..hihi..

i thought it same..:biggrin:
 
i too am facing the same prob as normality..spongy brakes and not as responsive..i have not checked for leaks near the brake pump ill get on to that 1st...and i too have bleed the lines many times...anyways thanks for the advice and thanks to thread started reg the matter.
 
If servo got prob.....brake pedal will feel very stiff....cause no brake assist already.....
 
spongy does not mean there is air inside the line
you got all wrong

the spongy can be cause by free play between the servo arm pusher and the master pump
you can adjust it with two method

either open up the master brake pump and adjust the servo nipple

or

adjust you brake pedal arm puller servo

remember, do not adjust till no free play
this will cause brake jam or locking

as for the brake not so responsive issue
try use good brand brake pads.this should help

the only way to know if got leakage in your brake system
is when you car engine is stall ( car engine havent start )
pump few times ( 2~3 times should do the trick )
and step it firmly

if the brake pedal moving down, there is sign of leakage

if it wont even move, there is no leakage, is in good condition

:smokin:
 
spongy does not mean there is air inside the line
you got all wrong

the spongy can be cause by free play between the servo arm pusher and the master pump
you can adjust it with two method

either open up the master brake pump and adjust the servo nipple

or

adjust you brake pedal arm puller servo

remember, do not adjust till no free play
this will cause brake jam or locking

as for the brake not so responsive issue
try use good brand brake pads.this should help

the only way to know if got leakage in your brake system
is when you car engine is stall ( car engine havent start )
pump few times ( 2~3 times should do the trick )
and step it firmly

if the brake pedal moving down, there is sign of leakage

if it wont even move, there is no leakage, is in good condition

:smokin:

Ill check about the leakage part..butt...You said good handbrake pads will improve how responsive the brakes will be? how does that work?
 
Ill check about the leakage part..butt...You said good handbrake pads will improve how responsive the brakes will be? how does that work?

handbrake pad u mean is it a brake shoe?if everything u check is ok,one place probably leak i think is at your rear brake servo..

last time it happened to my friend's car..the rubber torn already..
 
handbrake pad u mean is it a brake shoe?if everything u check is ok,one place probably leak i think is at your rear brake servo..

last time it happened to my friend's car..the rubber torn already..

thanks bro..will check on that too.
 
Ill check about the leakage part..butt...You said good handbrake pads will improve how responsive the brakes will be? how does that work?
a big diff
use cheapo brake pads which cost about rm2x~3x for front pair
and then you those above rm100
first thing you will notice

using cheapo brake pads - the disc will be dark color, due to brake pad warp the disc ( burned metal composite ) with friction cause by bad composite use to manufacture the pads

using good quality brake pads - disc brighter color scheme ( bare metal ), compound in the brake pad really give good friction , abrasive that skim the disc, disc wear high but give good stopping
its safer compare bad pads...
you wouldnt want save the disc brake n pads money for your life , rite...
life is more valuable
 
a big diff
use cheapo brake pads which cost about rm2x~3x for front pair
and then you those above rm100
first thing you will notice

using cheapo brake pads - the disc will be dark color, due to brake pad warp the disc ( burned metal composite ) with friction cause by bad composite use to manufacture the pads

using good quality brake pads - disc brighter color scheme ( bare metal ), compound in the brake pad really give good friction , abrasive that skim the disc, disc wear high but give good stopping
its safer compare bad pads...
you wouldnt want save the disc brake n pads money for your life , rite...
life is more valuable


bro i understand the importance of good pads in general,i think i read your post wrongly...earlier i thought i saw you type HANDBRAKE pads...thats why i was curious...anyways thanks for the explanation
 

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