Yah, lowered a lot.......
Help with new absorber and spring hitting fender
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sanekit
1,500 RPM
add more camber, ketuk those fenders. 
EDIT: Just noticed that TS on stock rims.
EDIT: Just noticed that TS on stock rims.
Agreed on this.
Got extra budget get front upper strut bars. Vios are well known for its numb drive feeling. Having a more solid front end will transfer more feel to the steering.
any difference between ARB and subframe?
Subframe
https://scontent.fkul3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/26239858_1506496249446394_8253331547576018757_n.jpg?_nc_cat=104&_nc_ht=scontent.fkul3-1.fna&oh=74c6026d40891b1ba77cced0a2db4079&oe=5CD0EA40
ARB
well, apparently, UR changed their design in their 2013 ARB to simulate subframe design
http://ultraracing.my/ecatalog/index.php/product/toyota-vios-1-5-2013-rear-sway-bar-rear-stabilizer-bar-rear-anti-roll-bar/
Look at the design, which one is more solid for its purpose?
its the ARB right.
Just imagine the right hand suspension is compressed, the ARB design is more efficient in doing the job. The subframe wont do much...like having a solid axle.
its the ARB right.
Just imagine the right hand suspension is compressed, the ARB design is more efficient in doing the job. The subframe wont do much...like having a solid axle.
ARB works better, it will try to stabilize the left and right side as either side goes up or down....
THOSE SUBFRAME IS PIECE OF SHIT very useless thing that only makes your car scrapping everything on the road...not even functional as anything... seriously...
its actually they mimicking proper antirollbar of UR instead...not other way around...
this is main function of antirollbar: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-roll_bar
ARB is connected to the absorbers or wheel control arm usually right? The name itself "Anti roll bar" says a lot already.
That other thing is more of a torsion beam strengthener which is really no point.
That other thing is more of a torsion beam strengthener which is really no point.
PERFECT !!!! thank you all for the reassurance !
so...16mm or the 19 mm?
Also its RM450 for the 16mm (on average).........sien !
so...16mm or the 19 mm?
Also its RM450 for the 16mm (on average).........sien !
Cant really see the purpose of this
torsion beam stiffener cuz the beam does twist under stress. A lot of stress though is required to twist to that extent.
19mm might be too much for the car. There are some old stories of folks using too thick bars and they end up ripping out the mounting points of the ARB which is not a good thing. Recommend you go ask around in clubs and friends who have the bars installed and test yourself. Also how hard do you corner? If perhaps you drive F1 speeds on public roads - you might want to reconsider your driving habits. Stick with the 16mm la imhoPERFECT !!!! thank you all for the reassurance !
so...16mm or the 19 mm?
Also its RM450 for the 16mm (on average).........sien !
well, not much 1st gen users nowadays. mostly driven by aunties and uncles. (" Aunty, your Vios got install anti roll bar or not ?")
everyone traded in their firs gen for later gen or the latest car.
My 1st Gen has its sentimental value and planning to slooooooowly refurbish it.
i only drive like F1 when the coast is clear. i dont tailgate.
next on my list is to bleed the brakes and get slotted and drilled rotors.
these are KIVs
need to change spark plug and look see look see if i need to change my injectors also.
im getting all my mechanical and electronic issue sorted out first.
Paint job is the most unimportant at the moment. no plan for body kit or aftermarket rims either.
Is the 1st gen using COP or distributor? Change the COP if it's using that and see if the spark plug cables need changing if distributor. That made a difference on my 12 year old Myvi when I changed them.well, not much 1st gen users nowadays. mostly driven by aunties and uncles. (" Aunty, your Vios got install anti roll bar or not ?")
everyone traded in their firs gen for later gen or the latest car.
My 1st Gen has its sentimental value and planning to slooooooowly refurbish it.
i only drive like F1 when the coast is clear. i dont tailgate.
next on my list is to bleed the brakes and get slotted and drilled rotors.
these are KIVs
need to change spark plug and look see look see if i need to change my injectors also.
im getting all my mechanical and electronic issue sorted out first.
Paint job is the most unimportant at the moment. no plan for body kit or aftermarket rims either.
Slotted and drilled rotors is questionable. If you use good ventilated rotors, good brake pads and good brake oil, it might work better than those drilled and slotted rotors. Instead - why not consider steel braided hoses? And check to see if your servo needs replacement since your car is that old.
Antiroll bars are only useful in the corners. So if you're fond of sweeping corners hard - then 19mm might be a good choice for you. However if you corner VERY hard better stick with 16mm and get stiffer front ARBs.
its COP. first time i exploring this option. not sure mine is the 4 holes but planning to get the 12 holes.
and YES on the steel braided. forgot to mention it. its on my list.
my mechanic is those type of very modest person , "boss, still can use, no need change" type of people.
at the moment, i will do whatever fits my budget as i just got a used SUV that needed TLC also. changed the absorbers on the SUV and more issue arises. engine mounting la, thermostat la, tires la.........damn sien.
Eh...u do it the wrong way.
When u want to upgrade your car dont go to your trusty mechanic.
Instead go to a performance shop and stare at whatever it is they sell. Ask them will this and that fit your car. Later post here to ask if its worth it or not. If u r commando style then go to performance shop with a briefcase full of cash and ask them to fit whatever they have on their shelf that fits your car to your car.
I suggest u set a list rather than doing this and that whenever u have the money.
mind sharing what suv u get?
Yah! unlike ARB they twist to balance the left and right side.....
Cant really see the purpose of this
my beloved VIOS has it limits. not going FI.
trying to upgrade if i have the budget.
mine already more than 200k KM on the clock. if i really have the budget, ill bore the engine head.
so probably
1. ARB
2.Front tower strut bar
3. Rotor, braided lines
i bought a Grand Vitara 2.0 just few months back, a bit regretting it as its a 4AT and spare parts are like non existence and EXPENSIVE.
Spent over $6K for repairs after getting it from dealership. More issue arise since.
I like it for its RWD, swinging back door, and rear spare tire. Also, this is the only model that has 4 disc brakes that fit my budget.
its also heavy and clumsy.
If I were you. I'd focus on :
1. Coilovers
2. Aftermarket lightweight calipers and rotors
3. Lightweight rims.
I mean sure - these are almost 3 times more expensive than your original plan but it'll make the car a lot better to drive. Front tower strut can wait till later.
Grand Vitara.... aiyo. Why did you opt for this
just got the suspension done weeks ago, so i will pump the brakes on spending more. but will put your options into consideration.
As for the GV, fell in luv with its design. LOOK ! its so pretty. but yeah, PITA to maintain it.
Most SUV looks like that. This is how my Chery Tiggo SUV looks like, seems is the old Rav4 copy.....lol
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