Due to alternator to close to my exhaust piping using cover will having a risk for short circuit. My battery already move to rear base on Apexi turbo timer reading as 13.5V during cold start if no aircon at 12.8V if aircon + headlamp is 12.6V according my experience if can transfer cold air direct to alternator the performance will be better. I recall during my car dyno we spray water to alternator the voltage maintain at 13.5V all the way.
But bro, i also have the same setup as you, battery moved to the rear boot and using Apexi turbo timer reading, cold start is same as you 13.5 sometimes 13.7v, but after a/c and headlights on is 12.3v, later with 2 sets of HIDs on, become 12.0v den slowly will go drop till 11.3v.. but when the mechanic measure directly from the battery, reading was minimum 12.0v which is running charging continuously.. because cut off charge if i'm not wrong was told by the mechanic is 12.3v.. anything lower the alternator will start charging the battery again.. that was all on "idle mode" but when cruising, the lowest it can go on my Apexi turbo timer reading is 11.9v.. the mechanic told me using this reading is not accurate as it tap the voltage from the ignition key not from the battery incoming.. so i'm super confused and annoyed for this case.. when voltage drop, you can feel like the car got no power d... but when the voltage is back to over 12.6~12.8v the car back to responsive mode.. really headache..
I tried google, some recommendations using smaller alternator pulley will help on the idle portion, but if high revving, worry the alternator will eventually burnt too.. but i did read across something like heat will cause the alternator to loose it's charging function.. i still remember the first few occasions, my alternator died during "super hot" afternoons... 2 times also like that..
Sorry for vy long winding me..just cannot tahan already..