Cheap B-O-T on 4g93

people even turbocharge the lambo nazmi, giloss diorang ni..

for me, the most important thing is the tuning. ive seen a lot of built racing motors terbarai because it wasnt tuned properly. con rod bengkok berpusing (u know, like the gamma symbol?) pun ade, tuning was done by sumwhat famous garage jugek..

fyi, any motor can be charged up
 
Yezza, its not like only conrod berpusing, blok broken because of the conrod pun got, really scared to see that blok..:driver:
Really agreed, tuning matters really need to be considered before start boosting..:proud:
 
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But people sometimes want to try something extraordinary regarding the boosting their motor / machines...yet, oem still the best! :driver:
 
spuzzle, not necessarily true sir, ive seen a factory spec gen2 lasted only few months, not even a year pun, it came new outta the show room, it was torn apart for a complete rebuild when i saw it in a workshop. so, at sum point, u can get a spec dat will be more reliable then the factory's. seen sum other cases on other makes, i hate to say it depends on ur luck, but ive to admit dat sumtime it does.. dats y ive never bought cars new, if u buy a used unit then they bound to have sum problems, if they dont then alhamdulillah.. i dont mind getting a car cheap and spend a tad more for repair, at least i know all the fecked parts has been replaced, so reliability wont be a biggy in the near future.

err, lets not bash proton over this matter shall we, i think theyve had enough, plus dis was years ago..

so, back to the topic..
 
ive been bolting on turbos, superchargers, and still maintain the reliability of those rides, y ler u guys say like gonna terbarai je if bot? if done properly, its definitely gonna last long and be reliable.

ive raised a compression an evo3 to around 11.8~12.2, and boost it sky high 1.7bar on a bigger T3/T4, producing a mere 360 on dyno dynamics, running under 5secs to the hundred, and havent blown a piston so far, at least not yet. people have been telling me its not possible, but yet there it is, roaming around selamba je, more then 3 years dah.. of course tuning was done by the maestro of microtech, joshua thiran of millennium motorsports asia, i expect nuthing less then a reliable tune. fyi, when tuning is done properly, dat extra power is an added bonus je.. people who tune solely for the power figure are usually the ones dat blow an engine up, ive seen many of dat hapenning..

nuff said..

U are talking about the Comression Test result right..? 12.5 Compression result is still consider acceptable.

It's all about tunning.

I did not say that the engine will not be reliable. But the cost of building a BOT 4G93 to be reliable will cost almost the same price as a 4G93T but still achieving less.

Might as well get a 4G93T and start building from there. That's what I was talking about. I'm also a BOTer... If someone wants to enjoy their engine and wanted to learn and know more about their engine, BOT is the way to go... Money is the only concern.

people even turbocharge the lambo nazmi, giloss diorang ni..

for me, the most important thing is the tuning. ive seen a lot of built racing motors terbarai because it wasnt tuned properly. con rod bengkok berpusing (u know, like the gamma symbol?) pun ade, tuning was done by sumwhat famous garage jugek..

fyi, any motor can be charged up

Sometimes not that it wasn't tuned properly... It's also the owner of the machine not satisfying with the result and gone beyond the limit.

Most of the ppl esspecially in Malaysia will ask question like.... "How many bars my engine can tahan..?", "what boost my conrod/pistons can take etc etc..?"

If the person knows his engine well, his question would be "How much HP my stock rods/pistons will hold/withstand??"

It's not the boost... It's the horsepower limit that ur engine can hold... I mean provided it's well tuned to eliminate all premature detonations.


Yezza, its not like only conrod berpusing, blok broken because of the conrod pun got, really scared to see that blok..:driver:
Really agreed, tuning matters really need to be considered before start boosting..:proud:

Yes... Boost don't kill the engine. Premature detonation does. If can avoid this ghost, ur engine lives happily.

i agreed any motors can b.o.t but when it comes to liability still oem the best

reliability will never be an issue if the set up and managed well. If u have time, check out Dirty-D Bolting a GT35R inducing 2+psi achieving 4XXWHP running 11secs with his 1.6 D16 motor. It's also a daily drive.

Epic tunning from States built a BOT D16 ZC with 3XX WHP with stock internals.

spuzzle, not necessarily true sir, ive seen a factory spec gen2 lasted only few months, not even a year pun, it came new outta the show room, it was torn apart for a complete rebuild when i saw it in a workshop. so, at sum point, u can get a spec dat will be more reliable then the factory's. seen sum other cases on other makes, i hate to say it depends on ur luck, but ive to admit dat sumtime it does.. dats y ive never bought cars new, if u buy a used unit then they bound to have sum problems, if they dont then alhamdulillah.. i dont mind getting a car cheap and spend a tad more for repair, at least i know all the fecked parts has been replaced, so reliability wont be a biggy in the near future.

err, lets not bash proton over this matter shall we, i think theyve had enough, plus dis was years ago..

so, back to the topic..

FYI, That's because the engine is not properly designed. I discussed it in one of my thread. "Why CAMPRO ENGINE FAILS ON THE CRANK. CAMPRO VS 4G92"

The word BOT, is actually damaged by some irrespossible mechanics and workshop whom claims and promise too much to the car owner and at the end of the day detonate the engine and blame the engine. But in actual fact, they don't know what they are doing and the limit of the engine internals.

Very famous BOT that fails the engine and promisses alot are DXXX and XXXXN... These are the ppl whom polute the BOT

I'm also running a 4G92BOT... So far no problem....
 
thank you for the long clarification speed, appreciate it sir

---------- Post added at 01:33 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 01:29 PM ----------

and no, i wasnt talking about the thread u posted. i saw it myself

the owner wanted to claim for the waranty in a service center and was denied, and she went to a workshop instead. the owner wasnt there when i saw and asked about the engine
 
thank you for the long clarification speed, appreciate it sir

---------- Post added at 01:33 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 01:29 PM ----------

and no, i wasnt talking about the thread u posted. i saw it myself

the owner wanted to claim for the waranty in a service center and was denied, and she went to a workshop instead. the owner wasnt there when i saw and asked about the engine

Ya... I was just refering to other reader. I think the's another case posted here saying the block picia cause engine masuk air... The car was parked in roof
covered car porch and the claim was denied as well. Stupid. Haiz... Sad case. Proton has done well in the current models. Just some stupid reason that's stopping them to regain their reputation.

No wonder why ppl still pay 50k for a Kcar... Not because they look better, it's because they don't trust the national car anymore.
 
speed2horizon,

ill be controlling the extra injectors using DIY switch which i can push it anytime i want.
using the SAFC to view the AFR on when to use the extra injectors. but. while boosting low. does this even necessary? im thinking of changing to GSR injectors. its easier to drive that way. right?

it seems much of a hassle to plonk in TD05. to modify the inlet/outlet etc. plus the higher cost of the turbine itself. ill be going with my main plan. TD04 from GSR. or maybe the RHF4 from legacy for the crazy torque at the low end.

my metal gasket currently is 0.8 if im not mistaken. maybe i'll save a bit more and double up my gasket? is it possible? "1.5mm + current 0.8mm"



cant wait for my BOT project to finish :D just need to find a TD04 from GSR and stock GSR extractor.
 
with the management we have nowadays, extra fuel injectors arent needed sir. get a proper injector capacity and tune it up, easier like dat

if u are up for sum extra work, get d RHF sir, response is also my second language, lol
 
RHF4 is better in terms of response? damn. i shouldnt reject the offer. someone offers me a RHF4 from legacy last week. rm300. no smoke no goyang2. but i think it wouldnt fit the gsr extractor and needed extra work. hrmm..

and if i may ask. may i know the pros and cons of either RHF4 from legacy, TD04 from GSR, TD05 from evo3
 
difference in sizing, power generation, torque curves, the list goes on sir, depending on ur setting jugek tu..

fyi, the old boxer type engine cant support big turbine, they are sluggish and rough (bop bop bop, lol) if they are fitted wit one. dats y the RHF gotten from a legacy is a tad smaller den a td05 (even though same cc), and is usually a ball bearing unit. so, the turbine's response is gonna be good on an inline 4 engine.

inlines are smoother in terms of power lap compared to an old gen flat-4
 
basically RHF4 is nicer than TD04 but i need to do some jobs done on my extractor right?
 
i have gsr stock pistons+rods if ur interested.. changing this pistons can easily drop ur comp ratio+ using metal gasket.. for sure u want to play more than 0.5bar of boost :)
 
basically RHF4 is nicer than TD04 but i need to do some jobs done on my extractor right?

I'd recommend u to use 4 injectors with resistor pack instead of 4 x 210cc + 2 x 510cc. There are always unwanted circumstances where u forgot to turn on ur injectors.

I'd also recommend a TD04L over the Subaru's turbo. On a 4g93, don't ever worry abt the response with TD04L. Esspecially if u're running with CR9+. The boost will be kicking in before ur Rpm reaches 2500.

Btw, the cost to bore a gsr manifold to use TD05 is just RM40 at Ngai Seng USJ, could be cheaper if u do it with Sang Engineering. Both engineering shop provide good workmanship n precision.
 
okay. just now i got my hands on 390cc 4g93t injectors. 4 piece for rm70. is that a cutthroat price?

and sorry to ask you a stupid question but, what is a resistor pack? and how and where do i install that?

yeah. im going with my initial plan of using TD04L. ;)

TD05 is plug and play too? just need to bore the manifold only is it? quite nice maybe for future upgrade. (lol j/k. im going to stick with my TD04L :D )
 
okay. just now i got my hands on 390cc 4g93t injectors. 4 piece for rm70. is that a cutthroat price?

and sorry to ask you a stupid question but, what is a resistor pack? and how and where do i install that?

yeah. im going with my initial plan of using TD04L. ;)

TD05 is plug and play too? just need to bore the manifold only is it? quite nice maybe for future upgrade. (lol j/k. im going to stick with my TD04L :D )

RM70 sounded u cut throat the seller. Market is selling ard RM220-RM250 depending on the condition. So, RM70 is dirt cheap.

Resistor pack is to be used on setups with low impedence injectors. Most oF the automotive setups are high impedence setup. When u add in a resistor pack, it becomes a low impedence set up. If not all, most of the turbocharged MMC engines are running on low impedence injectors. I.e. gsr 390cc twintip, vr4 450cc single tip, 450cc twin tip from rvr, 510cc from Eco 1-4, and etc etc. If u are running a high impende with low impedence injectors, u may fCe problem ur ecu not ablecontrol the injector or worse case scenario, u'll burn ur ecu.

So, here u are. U can chose the better looking MMC resistor pack from halfcutt which cost RM50-RM80 depending on seller. Or u can go for the DIY route. Just go into any electronic shop at Jln Pasar and ask for 4pcs of 10ohms AC resistors. They should cost u <RM10. They are white rectangular box like coffin with terminal at both ends. Wannna beautify it, get a VEROBOARD that will cost u RM3.00 so that u can solder them together. Installation is simple, cut the middle of the -ve wire of each injector, connect each -ve wire with a resistor. Have the othe end of the resistors parallel(join) into 1 and go back to any of the Inkector wire returning to the ECU. They are all ground at ECU actually. So, it's better to have it that way. Will draw some lines when I have time.

Regarding the TD05, yes. PNP on a bored up GSR manifold. Just another RM20 to twist the flange angle. But when u boost high, it's highly advised to change ur pistons to a low compression pistons.

G force are adictive. U'll want more. Hehe... Everyone says 0.5bars is enough in the beginning. Before they BOT. Same goes to me. When The TD04 does not overcome ur thirst for Gs, then u'd better leave the cost saving part and have it done properly at the first place itself or u'll end up spending more n more when things turned out to be ugly... Just my 2 cents experience.*
 
haha. ill try to "tahan" my lust for the extra G's.

its hard searching for TD04L :( its either broken, too expensive, or sold out. :( found a rm350 with extractor seller. sold out :(

and does TD04s from pajero works wonders for our puny 1834cc ? how about the flange? pnp for gsr extractor?
 
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