Radiator Water Boiling..

[clanzkiller]

Hey guys, recently i heard water boiling sound from engine..and when i hear it closely, it was from the radiator inside...

my engine was 4g93t, there was a spare radiator water tank just beside the radiator, and the water is consuming very fast...around 2 days and the spare tank water dry...but the radiator stil got water inside, and it was full..Additional information tat i wasn't using any coolant from the day i drive my car until now...and the problem only arise few days back..

from the meter panel (not sure if it is working properly or not), the temperature was stil below half...wit air-con, the temp. is at half...

i've check the radiator cap, 0.9 bar standard cap, and the cap stil working properly, means the spring is stil functioning without jam...there is no leaking at all too...

wat could be the possibility of causing the water to boil and is there any negative effect cause to my engine? so wat shud i do to prevent all tis thing happen?

Mistake correction - 0.6bar cap to 0.9bar cap

 

[clanzkiller]

help............!!

 

[hawick]

Built in water temp gauge can't be trusted 100%, my built in gauge shows slightly less then half from 45 - 95 C.

My reply doesn't help but just for your info.

My car having this problem too, sometimes i can hear water boiling sound right after i shut off engine, i'm wondering whether if it's due to old radiator.

 

[clanzkiller]

lol......did u told ah fatt about tat? i told him and he asked me to change the radiator cap...but the cap is stil in good condition after me and him check together...

if it was the radiator spring bar rate cannot support the pressure, it shud be happen once after i drove my car for soo long...

old radiator might be one thing....so if comfirm was the radiator, then at least i wil change a radiator without any hestitate lo...

 

[Maxx]

if ur water boiling/bubbling when hot, usually means burned head gasket.
open ur rad. cap, start engine, let it idle until hot. see if boiling/bubbling at rad. cap mouth.

 

[clanzkiller]

hurm...my meter panel temperature didn't show overheating issue...and additional information again, my radiator fans is working fine..

probably is boiling on the top of the radiator...i've read quite few articles from googles, most of them said is related to the radiator cap....

Bump: ok now i think i'm gonna change a radiator cap...

now my standard cap bar stated 0.9bar only...if i choose to change into 1.3 bar, is there any disadvantages? i knew wat's radiator cap do and the bar means wat...just tat some said is ok some said might cause the water pump to leak, hoses disconnection due to over pressure....

 

[hawick]

I didn't go to Ah fatt's workshop for long time, haha! Thinking of go there after new year.
My radiator was serviced last few months by ah fatt, cap is still fine but water temp is always 90-92 during daytime traffic jam, i dunno if it's normal...:hmmmm:

 

[Maxx]

if u want to use 1.3b cap, make sure ur cooling system support it. ur, rad, water pump, hoses. maybe u should try 0.9-1.1b 1st.

 

[clanzkiller]

if u want to use 1.3b cap, make sure ur cooling system support it. ur, rad, water pump, hoses. maybe u should try 0.9-1.1b 1st.

hurm...radiator, water pump and hoses stil in standard...i found the blitz very nice, and only available in 1.3b ma, so....hehehe.....

eh sorry, mistake!!! the bar was 0.9bar...i tight the bar upsidedown so i thought it was 0.6 bar...HAHAHAH..so probably 0.9-1.3 is ok rite?

just now i reached home, and i heard the boiling sound was from the hose connected to the block..then the sound slowly go to the reserved tank, which is the spare tank for the radiator..and also into the top of the radiator...

when i opened the reserved tank, the water boiled like mad...boiling until splashed outside all over the reserved tank....and can clearly see the water stil boiling inside the reserved tank..

so i use water to spray my radiator...smoke coming out as usual...and after 1-2 minits, the boiling stop....

i haven't buy the cap yet cause just now i went to sunway, all the close stil closed...

 

[darkwizard]

From your description, it seems like the radiator is blocked where all the hot water cannot goes down the radiator fin for cooling (thats why all boiling at the top of the radiator) before goes out from the botom of the radiator and back to the engine.

By the away, do not always trust the OEM temp meter...build an aftermarket water temp on the radiator hose (Hot water out from engine) to monitor on the temperature as i encounter the OEM meter not acurate. Aftermarket meter show 95 degree C while OEM meter still show slightly below middle (below working temp).

Thats just my 2 cents of experience sharing....sifu of this forum please feel free to correct if i am wrong.

 

[clanzkiller]

sound make sense bro darkwizard..tat's wat i'm thinking too..but i'd asked lot of ppl bout tat, and also google for answer...all gave me the answer is tat probably is the cap problem..try change the cap first..because cap is the cheapest solution(the normal cap, not performance cap..but i insisted to change to performance one,hehehe..)..once the cap change and problem stil occur, then only do internal and other check-ups...

aiya i don dare to put so much meter inside the car le..later...*touchwood*...

 

[darkwizard]

I think if your car still runs on stock configurations, better stick to the manufacturer type of radiator cap....try to google up the disadvantages of higher pressure radiator cap and its purpose then you will understand.

You can always hide the extra water temp meter somewhere else. Also you need to solve the overheating problem as soon as possible as Turbo car (4G93T) is very costly to repair if it overheated.

Just remember the water inside the radiator should not be boiling it should be max till 95 degree C only. Anything that reaching boiling point will cause other parts to worn out fast.

P.S.: Make sure that the water you use to fill the radiator and its reserve tank are pure water and no contaimination.

 

[hawick]

I think if your car still runs on stock configurations, better stick to the manufacturer type of radiator cap....try to google up the disadvantages of higher pressure radiator cap and its purpose then you will understand.

You can always hide the extra water temp meter somewhere else. Also you need to solve the overheating problem as soon as possible as Turbo car (4G93T) is very costly to repair if it overheated.

Just remember the water inside the radiator should not be boiling it should be max till 95 degree C only. Anything that reaching boiling point will cause other parts to worn out fast.

P.S.: Make sure that the water you use to fill the radiator and its reserve tank are pure water and no contaimination.

So do you mean that 95 degree C is still safe for engine? What is the normal water temp for daytime stop n go traffic condition based on ur experiences? Mine is usually 90-92 degree C, i worry it might be too hot.

 

[clanzkiller]

I think if your car still runs on stock configurations, better stick to the manufacturer type of radiator cap....try to google up the disadvantages of higher pressure radiator cap and its purpose then you will understand.

You can always hide the extra water temp meter somewhere else. Also you need to solve the overheating problem as soon as possible as Turbo car (4G93T) is very costly to repair if it overheated.

Just remember the water inside the radiator should not be boiling it should be max till 95 degree C only. Anything that reaching boiling point will cause other parts to worn out fast.

P.S.: Make sure that the water you use to fill the radiator and its reserve tank are pure water and no contaimination.

wat do u meant by running on stock configurations?

"In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.

The coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure."

Taken from http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_tips/Tech_Tips_2.htm



i know if heating issues wil caused other dmg as well...but i've no other choice and the problem arise during CNY period...and i've been to sunway for 2 days, no shop open at all...got but they don't sell radiator cap..my workshop wil only open on monday just for me as emergency workdays lol...and i have to travel around wit my car since i got only 1 car...but i drive very very slow without boosting anymore lol...max 80km/h only :(

the water i used is water directly from waterpipe...

i think i've decided to change to 2 layers aluminium radiator wit silicone radiator hoses...is tat enuf? or i need 3 layers? aiming for 300whp..i'm switching into bigger turbo soon and i need to solve tis minor problem before bigger problem arise..


and 1 more thing..when my engine is hot, the reserved tank wil be fill up wit water,boiling inside the reserved tank....and once the engine is cold, the reserved tank wil be empty wit water...is tis normal or abnormal?
and also i've double checked the radiator cap, the plastic inside seems to be worned d....

 

[JINEIL2EN]

just change the RAd Cap 1st....

 

[clanzkiller]

nah, sifu advised finally...will do JIN....looking for the radiator cap so hard.....all shop closed at sunway...

 

[JINEIL2EN]

nah, sifu advised finally...will do JIN....looking for the radiator cap so hard.....all shop closed at sunway...

STI 1 suitable for u..??? 1.3bar 1....
but not reco for stock rad.

 

[sharpshooter]

dis is a simple problem of worn radiator cap, change dat and problem solved

uprated rad cap isnt needed, just change to new original spec

oh, iam xtremeleo, lol

 

[clanzkiller]

lol...but i insisted to get the Blitz d1-spec one...cause it's look nice and for my future use too..hahah

 

[darkwizard]

So do you mean that 95 degree C is still safe for engine? What is the normal water temp for daytime stop n go traffic condition based on ur experiences? Mine is usually 90-92 degree C, i worry it might be too hot.

Normal Working temp for most car is at 80 Degree C. Certain model from the Japanese Make at the range of 70 to 85 degree C. The Max 95 Degree C is the max i place here due to the auto radiator fan kick in to start cooling the radiator at that temp for a few car that i have driven (Stock condition). (The OEM meter still show only half between "C" and "H")

Hopes that help.

Bump:

wat do u meant by running on stock configurations?

"In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.

The coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure."

Taken from http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_tips/Tech_Tips_2.htm



i know if heating issues wil caused other dmg as well...but i've no other choice and the problem arise during CNY period...and i've been to sunway for 2 days, no shop open at all...got but they don't sell radiator cap..my workshop wil only open on monday just for me as emergency workdays lol...and i have to travel around wit my car since i got only 1 car...but i drive very very slow without boosting anymore lol...max 80km/h only :(

the water i used is water directly from waterpipe...

i think i've decided to change to 2 layers aluminium radiator wit silicone radiator hoses...is tat enuf? or i need 3 layers? aiming for 300whp..i'm switching into bigger turbo soon and i need to solve tis minor problem before bigger problem arise..


and 1 more thing..when my engine is hot, the reserved tank wil be fill up wit water,boiling inside the reserved tank....and once the engine is cold, the reserved tank wil be empty wit water...is tis normal or abnormal?
and also i've double checked the radiator cap, the plastic inside seems to be worned d....

Yup during Chinese New Year its hard to get support.
aluminium radiator is a good upgrade and i think if you fitted the 3layers aluminium radiator, the radiator fan need to change to the evo type hanging on the front (blow type) as the original radiator fan already very near to the exhaust headers. I was aiming for that as well but just need to get more info on the advantages and disadvantages before jump in. Hope to see your problem solve.