Sifu's out there....need some advise....i intend to replace the hydraulic lifters in my 4G93T with new ones from the proton 4g93 NA...would there be any diffrence? how about the durabiity? Thanks in advance...
Hydraulic Lifters for 4G93T
- Thread starter gsr-sam
- Start date
4g93P is the same hydraulic lifters with 4g93t bro
btw whats the market price for 4g93p hydraulic lifters now?
btw whats the market price for 4g93p hydraulic lifters now?
if its making tik tik tik noise...its not the lifters (unless ur engine has been overheated and seized prior to this). NOTE: Hydraulic lifters are an ingenious design and RARELY fail.
problem lies with oil pump...specifically relief valve spring. Spring tension low resulting in oil flowing back to oil pan and top engine starved of oil resulting in lifters collapsed.
I've solved mine on a mazda engine.
problem lies with oil pump...specifically relief valve spring. Spring tension low resulting in oil flowing back to oil pan and top engine starved of oil resulting in lifters collapsed.
I've solved mine on a mazda engine.
- Jan 15, 2004
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Jun, no they are OEM. Performance/aftermarket ones have to order/buy elsewhere.
Mitsu lifters are well known for their ticking noise. From 1st gens all the way to the latest evos. Its just a flaw/quirk of the engine. My current motor has over 7bar of oil pressure at full flight and 2bar at idle and it still tick and thats with a big oil cooler. It can be solved buy getting updated lifters with the 3mm opening. This was proven when these was installed on a frens car recently. Super quiet can only hear the fan running. :)
Mitsu lifters are well known for their ticking noise. From 1st gens all the way to the latest evos. Its just a flaw/quirk of the engine. My current motor has over 7bar of oil pressure at full flight and 2bar at idle and it still tick and thats with a big oil cooler. It can be solved buy getting updated lifters with the 3mm opening. This was proven when these was installed on a frens car recently. Super quiet can only hear the fan running. :)
alucard, dat big oil cooler is decreasing the oil pressure to the head. where do u tap the sensor for the oil pressure meter? i think its an oil pump problem also, as mine isnt ticking on revv, just a lil on idle jer
- Jan 15, 2004
- 1,079
- 115
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xtremeleo, its not an oil pump problem if you have sufficient pressure when driving. Just the lifters. Mitsu is well documented and common to have low oil pressure at idle and I've been living with mine for years without probs to then engine. Even if you have a new uprated pump it is still the same oil pressure la. Tried that.
For that oil cooler my car's oil pump housing has a thermostat. So oil pressure when cold is not an issue. ;)
For that oil cooler my car's oil pump housing has a thermostat. So oil pressure when cold is not an issue. ;)
any idea on where to purchase this lifters? coz i need them badly at the moment cant stand the noise. Everytime I rev trickliimggggg sound so annoying...haha like my engine gonna blow like that haha
- Jun 4, 2006
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Jun, These are the lifters Bro Alucard is mentioning...
Check the website below
http://www.meek.com.au/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=168
- Jan 15, 2004
- 1,079
- 115
- 5,163
Muahahah... speed2H you still remember the link to meek.
Anyway, Jun. These are in AUD and they are gonna be quite expensive now since AUD is 3x MYR. That excludes shipping. I got a few sets for myself and my bros last time. The folks in Meek is nice they will ship to you.
Anyway, Jun. These are in AUD and they are gonna be quite expensive now since AUD is 3x MYR. That excludes shipping. I got a few sets for myself and my bros last time. The folks in Meek is nice they will ship to you.
How much is the shipping fee bro? Coz my
sister is there but she is coming back on Tuesday aiks so rush don't know manage to ask her get for me or not. If by shipping how long do it takes to ship it to Msia bro?
oil pressure is measured by the force in which the oil pump is pumping engine oil up to the engine block. the psi reading on the oil pressure meter simply tells an x amount of force being generated by the oil pump, hence telling us that the pump is working. we know that hydraulic lifters need oil to be hydraulically pumped up. now, if we know that the oil pump is working fine, then the golden question is, why is there not enough oil for the lifters to work as it should?
the disadvantage, rather misunderstanding, of looking at psi (force) measurement on the oil pump when in comes to hydraulic lifters, is that while the pump may be generating force, it DOES NOT tell us if the oil which was pumped up to the engine is actually staying up in the engine !!... upward and downward movement of oil is measured by flow, not psi....and here lies the problem. oil may be pumped upwards by good force but it may also be flowing downwards at a non OEM spec rate, hence starving the engine & lifters of oil.
Lets test. the flow discipline of oil inside the engine block is controlled by the oil pump relief valve, whereby a spring mechanism will contract, thereafter opening a valve/piston and allowing oil to flow back down to the oil pan, thus inhibiting excessive pressure build up caused by too much oil in the engine block. now, over time, the contraction and expansion of this spring will wear its elasticity down i.e the spring gets softer. once this happens, the spring is contracting easier than it should & allowing more oil to flow back down to the pan (out of OEM spec).
so, the result is this : High oil pressure (oil pump pumping hard & high psi reading), high flow rate (oil moving upwards and downwards at fast rate), BUT LOW oil volume in the engine block (less oil retained in engine block). thus, starving hydraulic lifters of oil...and the tik tik sound. The hard work of the oil pump is being undone by the soft relieve valve/spring which is actually allowing the oil to drain right back down!!
now we see that good psi reading on the oil pressure meter DOES NOT necessarily mean that there is oil in the engine block!! and changing the lifters will not solve the problem. someone mentioned that new spec lifters have larger inlet holes in them. this may (only may) solve the problem temporarily as it would allow more oil to enter the lifters. considering that less and less oil is being retained in the engine block over time (caused by the ever softening spring), the tick tick sound will eventually come back to haunt you, guaranteed.
to prove this, when new (in referring to a new engine & new oil pump), the tik tik sound is not evident, proving that the lifter's inlet hole diameter at OEM spec is already sufficiently large. hence, having larger inlet holes will only mask the problem short-term, not solve it.
Hope this helps to save some money.
the disadvantage, rather misunderstanding, of looking at psi (force) measurement on the oil pump when in comes to hydraulic lifters, is that while the pump may be generating force, it DOES NOT tell us if the oil which was pumped up to the engine is actually staying up in the engine !!... upward and downward movement of oil is measured by flow, not psi....and here lies the problem. oil may be pumped upwards by good force but it may also be flowing downwards at a non OEM spec rate, hence starving the engine & lifters of oil.
Lets test. the flow discipline of oil inside the engine block is controlled by the oil pump relief valve, whereby a spring mechanism will contract, thereafter opening a valve/piston and allowing oil to flow back down to the oil pan, thus inhibiting excessive pressure build up caused by too much oil in the engine block. now, over time, the contraction and expansion of this spring will wear its elasticity down i.e the spring gets softer. once this happens, the spring is contracting easier than it should & allowing more oil to flow back down to the pan (out of OEM spec).
so, the result is this : High oil pressure (oil pump pumping hard & high psi reading), high flow rate (oil moving upwards and downwards at fast rate), BUT LOW oil volume in the engine block (less oil retained in engine block). thus, starving hydraulic lifters of oil...and the tik tik sound. The hard work of the oil pump is being undone by the soft relieve valve/spring which is actually allowing the oil to drain right back down!!
now we see that good psi reading on the oil pressure meter DOES NOT necessarily mean that there is oil in the engine block!! and changing the lifters will not solve the problem. someone mentioned that new spec lifters have larger inlet holes in them. this may (only may) solve the problem temporarily as it would allow more oil to enter the lifters. considering that less and less oil is being retained in the engine block over time (caused by the ever softening spring), the tick tick sound will eventually come back to haunt you, guaranteed.
to prove this, when new (in referring to a new engine & new oil pump), the tik tik sound is not evident, proving that the lifter's inlet hole diameter at OEM spec is already sufficiently large. hence, having larger inlet holes will only mask the problem short-term, not solve it.
Hope this helps to save some money.
thanks to all the sifu's out there....my tepet sounds are very intemittent...sometimes they are loud as hell but sometimes smooth like a baby.....lately a mech recommended me to change to thicker oil 15/50 motul...a little better at first but much better now.....but still it is there....can this oil change help? The relive spring ....is it in the lifters? A bit confuse about the springs...
- Jun 4, 2006
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The thicker oils are just as a sound insulator to reduce the noise. However, it doesn't really solve the problem. If you really want to solve the problem, try the performance type lifters with bigger inlet to allow oil to retain within the lifters. If u have extra budget, try this:
HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
Or u can replace all the 16 lifters from OEM.
I went for even the cheaper solution. Add shims within the lifters and the cylinder head. I added 3 layers. Solved the problems.
the spring i'm talking about is part of the relief valve assembly located inside the oil pump. try and google a blueprint of ur oil pump assembly and you will see it there. please also google the pictorial assembly of a mitsu lifter to give you an idea of what you're dealing with. once you see the lifters, you'll note that its almost impossible for that design to fail. once you see the relief valve assembly on the oil pump, you'll also note how the spring inside there can get worn over time. bring both pictures to ur foreman to let him have a look before disassembly.
my experience tells me that changing the oil viscosity will not help on the lifters problem. thicker oil will give you higher psi reading...again, this won't help. new oil (irrespective of viscosity) will temporarily quiten down the lifters mainly because its not been contaminated yet. run the engine for the next 2000km and lifters will again tik (will happen 99% of the time). NOTE: If the lifters are not broken, then the problem is starvation of oil.
SOLUTION: how i solved my problem on a mazda engine (both mazda and mitsu engine share the same nightmare of hydraulic lash adjusters/lifters) was to get my VERY close buddy mechanic to open up my oil pump, thereafter to open up my relief valve assembly, thereafter to add washers (very small addition of washer thickness) on the spring assembly to increase the tension of the spring rate. the washers act to compress the spring, leading to higher tension rate, hence relief valve will not open so easily to let engine oil flow down to oil pan. this will retain more engine oil in the block, flooding the lifters with oil, and no more tik tik tik.
WARNING: DO NOT over add the number of thickness of washers (or the number of additional washers) as you dont want excessive pressure built-up on the engine block.
REMEMBER that want you're dealing with is a problem with your relief valve spring rate which has got softer through wear and tear, and what you're doing is increasing the spring rate only VERY SLIGHTLY by adding washers (hence compressing the spring to make it harder). i only added 2 thin washers on my spring assembly.
For me, the problem was solved by doing the above. this is in consideration of years of experimenting with types of oil, changing engine block, changing lifters, doing carbon clean-up all to no avai....
I must say that not make mechanics will do this for you, mainly because they won't earn much (only labour involved, with maybe 2 thin washers as parts). i strongly recommend that you get the picture of your 4G93T oil pump to your mechanic to let him see clearly what needs to be disassembled.
good luck, and this will solve the problem.
my experience tells me that changing the oil viscosity will not help on the lifters problem. thicker oil will give you higher psi reading...again, this won't help. new oil (irrespective of viscosity) will temporarily quiten down the lifters mainly because its not been contaminated yet. run the engine for the next 2000km and lifters will again tik (will happen 99% of the time). NOTE: If the lifters are not broken, then the problem is starvation of oil.
SOLUTION: how i solved my problem on a mazda engine (both mazda and mitsu engine share the same nightmare of hydraulic lash adjusters/lifters) was to get my VERY close buddy mechanic to open up my oil pump, thereafter to open up my relief valve assembly, thereafter to add washers (very small addition of washer thickness) on the spring assembly to increase the tension of the spring rate. the washers act to compress the spring, leading to higher tension rate, hence relief valve will not open so easily to let engine oil flow down to oil pan. this will retain more engine oil in the block, flooding the lifters with oil, and no more tik tik tik.
WARNING: DO NOT over add the number of thickness of washers (or the number of additional washers) as you dont want excessive pressure built-up on the engine block.
REMEMBER that want you're dealing with is a problem with your relief valve spring rate which has got softer through wear and tear, and what you're doing is increasing the spring rate only VERY SLIGHTLY by adding washers (hence compressing the spring to make it harder). i only added 2 thin washers on my spring assembly.
For me, the problem was solved by doing the above. this is in consideration of years of experimenting with types of oil, changing engine block, changing lifters, doing carbon clean-up all to no avai....
I must say that not make mechanics will do this for you, mainly because they won't earn much (only labour involved, with maybe 2 thin washers as parts). i strongly recommend that you get the picture of your 4G93T oil pump to your mechanic to let him see clearly what needs to be disassembled.
good luck, and this will solve the problem.
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