DIY Voltage Stabilizer

defcon1

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Btw...I am half-way through my new 90 capacitor design. Caps are packed close, but should not be a prob as they should not interfere with each other electronically. Heat, I have no idea at the moment. I'm using 35V 105C caps, so they should be fine. Ceramic caps are rated 50V 105C I think, so still no probs here.

Stripping some of my old computer equipment...I think I have a digital voltmeter panel with some heat sensors. Could be interesting to incorporate it. Anybody know if linking directly to the cap circuit will blow it?
 

defcon1

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I'll post after I test the unit. The initial unit I built seems to work. Still waiting for the components to burn in. The new unit, is more complicated. I would like to test it first. There is a load issue that I want to clear up first. Too big a VS is also not good and I am currently estimating the values to optimize for our ceffys. Don't have the time to properly calculate them since I work like 12 hours a day... :sad_smile:
 

ongteckweng

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defcon1 said:
Nah...just asked me not to refer to Zaptor in my thread. A fair request since this is a diy thread and they are in it for the business... :smile:

In future, I shall refer to these products as Brand "Z" and Brand "P"... :rofl:
hehehe...like our local commercial..

but in western country, they r allow to make direct comparison...we have still long way to go in terms of freedom of speech
 

defcon1

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Heh...actually, the Zaptor guy (who wants to remain anonymous) was very sporting. Even gave me some pointers as to how what to take into consideration when designing my VS. So, I'll honour his request not to make reference to his product... :smile:

Now, if only more people were like this. And he DOES know what he is talking about. A couple of things I never thought of even...cos my experience is in Consumer Electronics audio and video...where capacitors are used slightly differently.

Needless to say, if Zaptor comes out with electronic products that I cannot, or am too lazy to diy, I'll buy. There are many things that local Malaysians can fabricate locally to a higher standard than overseas. All they're missing is the branding, and the critical mass (local markets too small).
 

huakenny

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defcon1 said:
Mine has 42!!
bro,

i guess most of zth members know im dealing wit zaptor....:_:

but one thing im not so sure coz im noob in electronic....

do u think the more capacitors u hv, the better effect u will get? coz i hv few japanese and overseas DIY websites....they DIY bout 5capacitors only normally....

dun u think 42caps is too much? hehe....

just my 2cent..plz feel to gv me some comments...

:_:
 

defcon1

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huakenny said:
bro,

i guess most of zth members know im dealing wit zaptor....:_:

but one thing im not so sure coz im noob in electronic....

do u think the more capacitors u hv, the better effect u will get? coz i hv few japanese and overseas DIY websites....they DIY bout 5capacitors only normally....

dun u think 42caps is too much? hehe....

just my 2cent..plz feel to gv me some comments...

:_:
Actually, depends on what you're trying to do... :)

With my limited knowledge of practical electronics, let me see if I can explain what I am trying to achieve.

Capacitors are basically...electronic power storage. You charge them up, and they retain a potential difference across a gap, a "charge", or stored "force" cos it's potential difference that moves electrons. It's also known as a "condenser".

When used in an electronic circuit, they have the effect of stabilizing electrical current. Electricity in a car is basically not stable at all. Even when off, the chasis retains a certain amount of "dark current'...leaks and such off the many electrical devices in the car. When an engine is running, there are so many sources of electrical "noise". The car already has a stabilizer for the current coming off the alternator that more or less stabilizes it so that the car can use it. BUT it is loaded with spikes and troughs of varying magnitudes and frequencies.

Now...the different devices that make up a car will show varying sensitivities to this "noise". Ignition requires enough current be available every time a spark is generated...hence, should it encounter a trough when it needs to draw on current, the spark would be weaker. Imagine your engine cylinders firing...each spark just slightly different. Certainly, it would not be as smooth as if each spark were exactly the same.

Electronics in a car...your ECU, Audio system, the various sub-ECU's in a car...the various sensors...all require stable current at mili-amp levels.

A condenser bank would help level out these spikes and troughs. Capacitors form a small "reservoir" of charge that can be used to fill in the troughs...and at the same time absorb the spikes. Modern capacitors have extremely fast charge and discharge times, so even they can react to even extremely short duration interference in electrical flow.

Now, to the type of capacitors to use.

Electrolytic capacitors...the most common type...is fast enough to even out low frequency interference but not fast enough to completely filter out the high frequency stuff. If you absorb enough low frequency interference, you improve things like ignition...and your sound system, though for the sound system to sound really good, you'd need some really huge capacitors.

To filter out high frequency interference, the cheapest way would be to use ceramic capacitors. These are very low capacitance, but very high speed. High frequency interference would affect things like your ECU and sensor system, and your audio system as well.

The next thing you need to know is that the higher the value of the cap, the slower the charge/discharge rate. This, of course, applies to normal capacitors and not the high capacity "condensers" used in car audio applications. Hence, you'd have to use caps of different values to accomodate the different frequencies of interference you are trying to filter out.

I have completed my 2nd prototype...probably my final prototype until I can find some much bigger capacitors at a decent price. This one consists of 90 capacitors, both electrolytic and ceramic, and adds up to 53,000 mFarad. I've just put it in my car and moved my pivot to my blaupunck sub. Immediate noticeable effects are...

a) It starts real easy. I used to have a problem starting because of my extremely high fuel pressure. The engine floods easy. Now, it's a single crank. So, sparking must be gaining from the capacitor bank.

b) My sound system became noticeably more powerful and more dynamic. Sub-woofer is much louder and more snappy. I had to re-balance the system.

c) Lights...do not seem to benefit from the cap bank...and theoretically, they should not.

I haven't tried driving yet, as I finished late and was damn tired. Dropped a nut while installing the damn thing, and had to work to extract it. Then dropped a spanner, and that took some time too.

53,000 mFarad is actually very small. This adds up to only 0.05 Farad. Capacitors used for car audio purposes are 1 Farad and above. It doesn't matter how many capacitors you use. It's the type/speed of capacitor and the total capacitance that counts.

If I could find some really fast, high capacitance caps, I'd use less. As it is, I had to build this one on 2 boards mounted one on top of the other. For simple improvement of ignition and some basic audio improvement, my 1st prototype should be more than enough. And for some really good improvement in audio performance...some simple capacitor banks connected to each device could do wonders for your sound.

Next...a VS built with valves...hee hee...just kidding... :laugh:
 

defcon1

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p.s. I'll post the circuit diagram next weekend. Takes some time to draw it out. I didn't incorporate a fuse as the fuse holders I found were too small, size-wise, to accomodate the 4-gauge wire I was using. Didn't want to affect the current flow by using thinner gauge to connect the fuse. One way to get around this would be to buy a circuit board mounted fuse holder. I forgot to buy this.

Was also looking for a digital volt meter, but couldn't find anything decently priced either. I could have built in a simple voltage indicator based on the LM-something chip...sort of 3V and one led lights up...6 volts and the second LED lights up, etc. But this would have been tedious and not very functional.

The other thing is that there is really very little usable space in the ceffy. This is extremely irritating and made me want to shift the battery to the boot just to get some space to work.
 

defcon1

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Oh...and I had a chance to try out the car this morning. I sense a marginal increase in torque, and slightly better acceleration. Engine ignition is more even and stronger...you can feel each "beat" as a spark goes off. Gives a more V-engine feel to the ceffy.

Also...my ignition coil packs haven't misfired since I put in my first prototype, so this could be an easy solution to extending the life of our coil-packs... :smile:
 

honggas

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defcon1 said:
Oh...and I had a chance to try out the car this morning. I sense a marginal increase in torque, and slightly better acceleration. Engine ignition is more even and stronger...you can feel each "beat" as a spark goes off. Gives a more V-engine feel to the ceffy.

Also...my ignition coil packs haven't misfired since I put in my first prototype, so this could be an easy solution to extending the life of our coil-packs... :smile:
Hmm ... so many to do, so many things that brings good things to my ceffy ... but ... not so much money ... :bawling:

Hehe .. so how much should we be looking at in getting your latest innovation in our ceffy .. xifu deffy? and is there no difference for the A32 2.0 ?
 

defcon1

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No diff at all. Actually, to get a decent gain, we're looking at about RM 30 in components and a box to put it in... :smile: This estimate does not include the power cables cos that cost would depend on the quality of cable and the length.

For some basic improvements, we could simplify and forget about the ceramic caps...just work with electrolytic...should already give you a decent gain in performance.

You would need the following electrolytic capacitors and parts, all rated at 35V, 105 degrees C:

a) 220 microF x 6
b) 330 microF x 6
c) 470 microF x 4
d) 1000 microF x 4
e) 2200 microF x 2
f) 4700 microF x 2
g) 1 x hobby board (hobbyist pcb board) - I think they come in 10" long by about 5" wide.
h) 1 x high brightness blue 5mm LED
i) 1 x 5mm LED holder
j) 1 x 1 kOhm, 0.5 watt resistor
k) 1 x fuseholder (board mounted) + 3 amp fuse
l) 6 x circuit board mount
m) 1 x electronic hobby box. All this would probably fit in a box of about 5" (l) x 4" (w) x 3" (d).
n) 2 x copper/brass/steel bolts, nuts and washer (small, 8mm to hold the power wires to the pcb.
o) 4' - 6' of 4 gauge power cables (depends on where you want to position your VS)

If you want some high frequency filtering, then 3 - 4 different ratings of ceramic caps, 6 pieces of each rated from 0.02 - 0.1 microF.

This is basically prototype 1.
 
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honggas

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Bro Deffy, you're not planning to sell completed ones ke? My knowledge on electronics parts are limited to using, not building although watching someone building it would be really interesting.

My Jalan Pasar experience is limited to driving friends over and alternative route to Cheras :biggrin:
 

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Hi again friends :itsme:

I'd like to have your views on the above vs wetsanding.

As up till now, i've only wetsanded to remove orange peel. not used any velvet pad.
Not available here as are most detailing products.

plz refer to my previous post ( the caveman's part 2)


My concern is not this car though. the car is sold now.
one guy...
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