DIY Voltage Stabilizer

huakenny

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defcon1 said:
Mine has 42!!
bro,

i guess most of zth members know im dealing wit zaptor....:_:

but one thing im not so sure coz im noob in electronic....

do u think the more capacitors u hv, the better effect u will get? coz i hv few japanese and overseas DIY websites....they DIY bout 5capacitors only normally....

dun u think 42caps is too much? hehe....

just my 2cent..plz feel to gv me some comments...

:_:
 

defcon1

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huakenny said:
bro,

i guess most of zth members know im dealing wit zaptor....:_:

but one thing im not so sure coz im noob in electronic....

do u think the more capacitors u hv, the better effect u will get? coz i hv few japanese and overseas DIY websites....they DIY bout 5capacitors only normally....

dun u think 42caps is too much? hehe....

just my 2cent..plz feel to gv me some comments...

:_:
Actually, depends on what you're trying to do... :)

With my limited knowledge of practical electronics, let me see if I can explain what I am trying to achieve.

Capacitors are basically...electronic power storage. You charge them up, and they retain a potential difference across a gap, a "charge", or stored "force" cos it's potential difference that moves electrons. It's also known as a "condenser".

When used in an electronic circuit, they have the effect of stabilizing electrical current. Electricity in a car is basically not stable at all. Even when off, the chasis retains a certain amount of "dark current'...leaks and such off the many electrical devices in the car. When an engine is running, there are so many sources of electrical "noise". The car already has a stabilizer for the current coming off the alternator that more or less stabilizes it so that the car can use it. BUT it is loaded with spikes and troughs of varying magnitudes and frequencies.

Now...the different devices that make up a car will show varying sensitivities to this "noise". Ignition requires enough current be available every time a spark is generated...hence, should it encounter a trough when it needs to draw on current, the spark would be weaker. Imagine your engine cylinders firing...each spark just slightly different. Certainly, it would not be as smooth as if each spark were exactly the same.

Electronics in a car...your ECU, Audio system, the various sub-ECU's in a car...the various sensors...all require stable current at mili-amp levels.

A condenser bank would help level out these spikes and troughs. Capacitors form a small "reservoir" of charge that can be used to fill in the troughs...and at the same time absorb the spikes. Modern capacitors have extremely fast charge and discharge times, so even they can react to even extremely short duration interference in electrical flow.

Now, to the type of capacitors to use.

Electrolytic capacitors...the most common type...is fast enough to even out low frequency interference but not fast enough to completely filter out the high frequency stuff. If you absorb enough low frequency interference, you improve things like ignition...and your sound system, though for the sound system to sound really good, you'd need some really huge capacitors.

To filter out high frequency interference, the cheapest way would be to use ceramic capacitors. These are very low capacitance, but very high speed. High frequency interference would affect things like your ECU and sensor system, and your audio system as well.

The next thing you need to know is that the higher the value of the cap, the slower the charge/discharge rate. This, of course, applies to normal capacitors and not the high capacity "condensers" used in car audio applications. Hence, you'd have to use caps of different values to accomodate the different frequencies of interference you are trying to filter out.

I have completed my 2nd prototype...probably my final prototype until I can find some much bigger capacitors at a decent price. This one consists of 90 capacitors, both electrolytic and ceramic, and adds up to 53,000 mFarad. I've just put it in my car and moved my pivot to my blaupunck sub. Immediate noticeable effects are...

a) It starts real easy. I used to have a problem starting because of my extremely high fuel pressure. The engine floods easy. Now, it's a single crank. So, sparking must be gaining from the capacitor bank.

b) My sound system became noticeably more powerful and more dynamic. Sub-woofer is much louder and more snappy. I had to re-balance the system.

c) Lights...do not seem to benefit from the cap bank...and theoretically, they should not.

I haven't tried driving yet, as I finished late and was damn tired. Dropped a nut while installing the damn thing, and had to work to extract it. Then dropped a spanner, and that took some time too.

53,000 mFarad is actually very small. This adds up to only 0.05 Farad. Capacitors used for car audio purposes are 1 Farad and above. It doesn't matter how many capacitors you use. It's the type/speed of capacitor and the total capacitance that counts.

If I could find some really fast, high capacitance caps, I'd use less. As it is, I had to build this one on 2 boards mounted one on top of the other. For simple improvement of ignition and some basic audio improvement, my 1st prototype should be more than enough. And for some really good improvement in audio performance...some simple capacitor banks connected to each device could do wonders for your sound.

Next...a VS built with valves...hee hee...just kidding... :laugh:
 

defcon1

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p.s. I'll post the circuit diagram next weekend. Takes some time to draw it out. I didn't incorporate a fuse as the fuse holders I found were too small, size-wise, to accomodate the 4-gauge wire I was using. Didn't want to affect the current flow by using thinner gauge to connect the fuse. One way to get around this would be to buy a circuit board mounted fuse holder. I forgot to buy this.

Was also looking for a digital volt meter, but couldn't find anything decently priced either. I could have built in a simple voltage indicator based on the LM-something chip...sort of 3V and one led lights up...6 volts and the second LED lights up, etc. But this would have been tedious and not very functional.

The other thing is that there is really very little usable space in the ceffy. This is extremely irritating and made me want to shift the battery to the boot just to get some space to work.
 

defcon1

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Oh...and I had a chance to try out the car this morning. I sense a marginal increase in torque, and slightly better acceleration. Engine ignition is more even and stronger...you can feel each "beat" as a spark goes off. Gives a more V-engine feel to the ceffy.

Also...my ignition coil packs haven't misfired since I put in my first prototype, so this could be an easy solution to extending the life of our coil-packs... :smile:
 

honggas

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defcon1 said:
Oh...and I had a chance to try out the car this morning. I sense a marginal increase in torque, and slightly better acceleration. Engine ignition is more even and stronger...you can feel each "beat" as a spark goes off. Gives a more V-engine feel to the ceffy.

Also...my ignition coil packs haven't misfired since I put in my first prototype, so this could be an easy solution to extending the life of our coil-packs... :smile:
Hmm ... so many to do, so many things that brings good things to my ceffy ... but ... not so much money ... :bawling:

Hehe .. so how much should we be looking at in getting your latest innovation in our ceffy .. xifu deffy? and is there no difference for the A32 2.0 ?
 

defcon1

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No diff at all. Actually, to get a decent gain, we're looking at about RM 30 in components and a box to put it in... :smile: This estimate does not include the power cables cos that cost would depend on the quality of cable and the length.

For some basic improvements, we could simplify and forget about the ceramic caps...just work with electrolytic...should already give you a decent gain in performance.

You would need the following electrolytic capacitors and parts, all rated at 35V, 105 degrees C:

a) 220 microF x 6
b) 330 microF x 6
c) 470 microF x 4
d) 1000 microF x 4
e) 2200 microF x 2
f) 4700 microF x 2
g) 1 x hobby board (hobbyist pcb board) - I think they come in 10" long by about 5" wide.
h) 1 x high brightness blue 5mm LED
i) 1 x 5mm LED holder
j) 1 x 1 kOhm, 0.5 watt resistor
k) 1 x fuseholder (board mounted) + 3 amp fuse
l) 6 x circuit board mount
m) 1 x electronic hobby box. All this would probably fit in a box of about 5" (l) x 4" (w) x 3" (d).
n) 2 x copper/brass/steel bolts, nuts and washer (small, 8mm to hold the power wires to the pcb.
o) 4' - 6' of 4 gauge power cables (depends on where you want to position your VS)

If you want some high frequency filtering, then 3 - 4 different ratings of ceramic caps, 6 pieces of each rated from 0.02 - 0.1 microF.

This is basically prototype 1.
 
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honggas

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Bro Deffy, you're not planning to sell completed ones ke? My knowledge on electronics parts are limited to using, not building although watching someone building it would be really interesting.

My Jalan Pasar experience is limited to driving friends over and alternative route to Cheras :biggrin:
 

defcon1

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honggas said:
Bro Deffy, you're not planning to sell completed ones ke? My knowledge on electronics parts are limited to using, not building although watching someone building it would be really interesting.

My Jalan Pasar experience is limited to driving friends over and alternative route to Cheras :biggrin:
ongteckweng said:
yeah deffy....get few done and sell to us cheap cheap...or cost to cost then we treat u mamak or briyani lor...
Hmmm...actually, I have no intention of selling them. They're too easy to build.

But I don't mind making some for you guys. We'll need to organize it properly, and my rate of building is about one a week...as that is all the time I have to spare.

Components, better to buy as a group, cos you could probably knock off a few cents here and there. But there are a few consumables. The obvious is solder (not expensive) and flux (cheap)...but I burned out 2 soldering irons doing these prototypes. Bloody China-made stuff doesn't last at all. I'll need to buy a decent soldering iron, preferably with some spare tips. It's the tips that get consumed, and when they blunt out, it would be impossible to solder properly after that. Let me see what I can find on the market that will last 'cos I need one that's reliable.

The next problem is housings. The one I am using is too big for a Prototype 1 and it's bulky. We'll need to source some that can be easily waterproofed, and that will fit into the engine bay. Then power cables...4 gauge is actually too thick and the lack of flex gave me some problems. A slightly thinner one is better and will not interfere with the cap bank's performance. This item definitely better to buy in bulk cos they can cost RM 5 per foot and if you want a nice positioning against the firewall...6 feet is what you will need. Then the cable ends...er...connectors, and shrink tubing...definitely shrink tubing.

Now...for flash...the housings you can buy are ugly black plastic. The solution...Krylon plastic paint...available at Ace Hardware... :smile:

Then, you may need some other dress-ups like...er...Nismo stickers for the housing...digital voltmeter (try to find in Jln Pasar), clear window (simple...just cut a hole, and bolt in clear perspex)...then your LED need not be mounted in the housing....can be located on the pcb board inside...easier execution.

You guys decide...I'll need help to go buy the stuff, maybe next Saturday...and if someone knows some accessory shop somewhere (Ong...nudge, nudge, wink, wink)...maybe can get a good price on power cable... :smile:

My standard of construction requires that the final product is solidly built i.e. you could drop it from 2 metres onto a hard surface and it should still work...and the most important is the finishing. Every clip and connection is soldered in and then properly insulated with pvc tape and shrink tubing. All lose wires inside are cable tied down before final assembly. And that's why I can only build one a week... :smile:
 

honggas

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Count me in ... Deffy you let us know of the cost for the stuff and also for your consumables ...

Then we have a fitting session and a "Treat Deffy to Briyani" session :biggrin:
 

defcon1

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Actually...the only consumable that bothers me...is the soldering iron...cos, for cheap soldering iron, when the tip wears out...you throw away cos you can't buy the tips...so you lose the entire soldering iron...

For a good soldering iron, the only consumables are the tips...cos you CAN buy replacements...so the cost is only the tips... :smile:

There is no substitute for GOOD equipment... :smile:
 

honggas

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Okie .. you're the Jedi Master ... we young padawan listen and nod our head :biggrin:

Probably you and Ong can work out and let us know the total cost?

Err ... only me and Ong interested ke?
 

defcon1

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I think a lot of people interested. For Proto 1 VS, can use small, compact housing...less capacitance, but much easier to place, and probably looks better... :smile:
 

ongteckweng

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honggas said:
Okie .. you're the Jedi Master ... we young padawan listen and nod our head :biggrin:

Probably you and Ong can work out and let us know the total cost?

Err ... only me and Ong interested ke?
honggas...nowadays only few members who r active in this thread...the rest MIA liow...
 

defcon1

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Hmmm...wonder what happened to them all... :sad_smile:
 

honggas

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Btw, Ong, nice new signature you got there ...

Should also design something for Deffy's VS, then can put nicely on the housing :biggrin:

Then can put nice tagline like .....

"Defcon1 Voltage Stabilizer, stabilizing your unstabilized mind" :rofl:
 

ongteckweng

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honggas said:
Btw, Ong, nice new signature you got there ...

Should also design something for Deffy's VS, then can put nicely on the housing :biggrin:

Then can put nice tagline like .....

"Defcon1 Voltage Stabilizer, stabilizing your unstabilized mind" :rofl:
thanks man...i think deffy also good at photoshop...but no time nia...:biggrin:
 

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