stupidcar
5,000 RPM
Boleh thana 17 years, not bad wei.
4g93 Mivec Turbo Waja project(Many pictures be warned)
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Boleh thana 17 years, not bad wei.
Actually it was all good until the engine swap. I think while it was left to rot for 1.5 years, shit entered the system maybe because before the engine swap the aircond was damn cold during the afternoon as well.
that sounds like a lotta money spent in the last month. And damn bro, your upgrades are always so damn interesting! Who did the GB update for you?
Also how the hell did a transistor snap like that?
Also how the hell did a transistor snap like that?
Yes it's damn alot of money. Bill was almost 2k including labour for gearbox remove install/barai gearbox and aircond overhaul, excluding the price of the gears in the first place and also the gear oil. Ok la not say very interesting also, this one minor update only. After this should be reducing alot on the updates edi just need to tune here and there, up boost, then hopefully prep it for sepang track day hehe. My usual workshop in SS19 did the work, but I was also there to join as need to identify some parts and also decide which parts to use. Some the gears are the same with the ones I bought, but the conditions of the synchro teeth are not the same, so have to decide which is the better one.
Now finally reasonably happy while driving the car edi, smooth turns and 1-2 don't suck as bad anymore, just need to fix the monoblock for my missing boom boom boom
Modding cannot be helped, sure cost a lot of money......
nvm, whatever i spend, still not as much as #GarageBMWJZ
omg the pain
From salt to acid on the wound......hhahhahahhaha
Now giving him morphine........hhahahhahahha
Long time no update liao, here's some update, good info in case you guys encounter the same problem.
After the GB dissection, my water temp gauge became unreliable. When the compressor kicks in, the water temp will go up, and when the compressor turns off the temp will go down immediately, confirmed from the ECU reading that the engine is not overheating. Changed the temp sender for the gauge and problem still same. Mech suggested to check my grounding and I just gave the grounding cable and mounting points on the chassis some grinding, and also added another grounding cable as well while I was at it, and the temp sender started working like normal again
Before
After
Also another problem was recently I noticed idling was rougher than usual and town driving is just pretty horrible at really low RPM where the engine can get really jerky. Thought it was my tuning problem but no matter what I do I just couldn't tune it out. Wanted to play around with the cam timing to reduce the overlap, opened the timing belt cover and, lo and behold, the intake cam had move itself all the way to one extreme. Somehow the 5 allen bolts holding the cam gear down wasn't torqued properly and required very light force to get it to loosen.
Although the cam markings shows that it is full Retard, it is actually at full Advance. The markings on the cams are reversed. With the intake cam fully advanced, the valve overlap is alot more, and I was pretty lucky the valve did not kiss the piston!
The cam gear had moved 8 markings on the gear, 1 marking representing 2 crank degrees. The cam had advanced a whole 16 degrees!
Adjusted it back and give it slightly more retard this time, and idling was smoother with more vacuum and driving around town is soooo much smoother now with no jerky jerky.
After the GB dissection, my water temp gauge became unreliable. When the compressor kicks in, the water temp will go up, and when the compressor turns off the temp will go down immediately, confirmed from the ECU reading that the engine is not overheating. Changed the temp sender for the gauge and problem still same. Mech suggested to check my grounding and I just gave the grounding cable and mounting points on the chassis some grinding, and also added another grounding cable as well while I was at it, and the temp sender started working like normal again
Before
After
Also another problem was recently I noticed idling was rougher than usual and town driving is just pretty horrible at really low RPM where the engine can get really jerky. Thought it was my tuning problem but no matter what I do I just couldn't tune it out. Wanted to play around with the cam timing to reduce the overlap, opened the timing belt cover and, lo and behold, the intake cam had move itself all the way to one extreme. Somehow the 5 allen bolts holding the cam gear down wasn't torqued properly and required very light force to get it to loosen.
Although the cam markings shows that it is full Retard, it is actually at full Advance. The markings on the cams are reversed. With the intake cam fully advanced, the valve overlap is alot more, and I was pretty lucky the valve did not kiss the piston!
The cam gear had moved 8 markings on the gear, 1 marking representing 2 crank degrees. The cam had advanced a whole 16 degrees!
Adjusted it back and give it slightly more retard this time, and idling was smoother with more vacuum and driving around town is soooo much smoother now with no jerky jerky.
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I dont think he'll want to do that to his adjustable sprockets
Yup, he did mentioned not torqued properly.....
actually he should...
thats the best practice...once cam is adjusted, dynoed/tuned to suits and confirm at specific degree...
then use loctite to lock it...
These things don't typically come loose on their own, do they?
Yeah, luckily using low comp pistons and 1.5mm thick gasket hahahahaha
God knows la how it came loose. When I loosened that 5 bolts to readjust it back, it was damn loose. Using those 'L' shape allen key, I can just loosen it with the end with the lesser leverage.
Belum masuk dyno ma, main main saja just to get it driving OTR town driving and idle nicely haha
Loctite actually got a few colours grades, eventhough the bottle is all red.
http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/the-difference-between-red-blue-green-and-purple-threadlockers/
Mr. DIY got sell the cheap china brand Threadlocker RED but I am not sure how strong is it compared to the actual Loctite RED, as the original Loctite RED is their strongest one and is meant to be loosened with heat.... Original Loctite branded threadlocker is hella expensive.
Wonder if after loctite, later want to remove the bolt, can it come off?
just check their site,got 2 type;
1.type only require manual tool.with a bit more force of coz.
2.type require heat to loosen the bolt.260 degree of heat.
Habis lah, the sprocket, camshaft and the attached seals
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