hello everybody..i need help for throttle body replacement..my satria 1.3 got tb problem..as i read a lot of forum i didnt get any specific answer for what i want to do to replace my tb..may i know is there can use tb 4g92 original mitsubishi single cam to install at my 1.3 intake?..any mod for kaki or just plug the tb to intake..because i have found from half-cut tb 4g92..need advice from you all..thanksss
Proton Throttle body replacement
- Thread starter rokrmc13
- Start date
What I can advise is don't put a throttle body bigger than your stock one. Proton fuel injection engine has 2 or 3 generations. The earlier one uses a bigger throttle body. It has a lovely loud induction roar when you press the pedal but low-end torque suck like s***. The later generation has a smaller throttle body with much better torque and response.
I know because I converted my 1.3 carb into efi last time. So better stick with standard size.
im sick always repair the same thing..i sent to wrkshop twice to change the servo kit..now the problem occur again worst than before..now the ISC/TPS got problem...then suddenly my car got low power..low pickup..use a lot of fuel..i already survey the new tb at proton the price is 1k++..someone was suggest to upgrade bigger tb to gain extra power..to find rebuild or recond tb for 1.3 is hard to find it..i read at other forum to install ficd but i think that only fix for aircond idling problem..any advice?..
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1.3 injection use siemens ecu ah???
the one that cannot adjust idle by screwdriver (must use OBDII device) ?? :hmmmm:
if siemens TB u cannot use mitsu TB...totally different signal/sensors..
the one that cannot adjust idle by screwdriver (must use OBDII device) ?? :hmmmm:
if siemens TB u cannot use mitsu TB...totally different signal/sensors..
4g13 definately can use 92 tb.
direct p n p but have to use back ur stepper motor below.
but if u put bigger tb without porting the intake, its the same...might as well dont put.
direct p n p but have to use back ur stepper motor below.
but if u put bigger tb without porting the intake, its the same...might as well dont put.
i use mmc tb..mine is satria 1.3 year 2000..i aready compare with vdo tb..totally different...
---------- Post added at 02:24 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:20 PM ----------
im sorry cause im totally newbe...what do you mean use back stepper motor?..is it servo kit or TPS
I was thinking to put thermostat back again..as i think maybe the coollent pipeline directly always make the tb heat..because from my knowledge if use thermostat when the engine temperature increase the thermostat sensor will detect and will open the flow at the same time make tb warm..if remove the thermostat then the coollent will always flow around the engine (advantage is void engine temperature increase) up-next to throttle body that can keeping TB heat and ISC/TPS melt (disadvantage) then idling keep fluctuate especially when i drive at high noon, there is no difference if buy new tb if this problem appear again..i read others forum they also said bought new or recon tb after that got problem with their tb after use few months..correct me if i wrong...any advice....
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Can anyone shed a light on this matter further. I'm driving a satria 1.3 year 2000. I've changed the throttle body to original one, brand new as its been so long since i have this problem with roughness during idling with AC. Since its new and the problem is still there, i went for a top overhaul for my engine, and its still there. The authorised proton workshop said the throttle body isn't a 1.3 one, but 1.6. According to the shop i bought it from it is the 1.3 throttle body. So how the hell and who do i actually refer to for real consult? I've changed the cables, distributor, alternator, water pump, timing belt, throttle body, all belts, re seat the valves, change piston ring ... Basically i've changed almost all parts lah, and with brand new original throttle body. So do i buy another car and just give up on trying to make this proton run smooth? as nobody in malaysia can solve a stupid 4G1 engine problem, seriously annoying. Oh, i even overhauled, yes total rebuilt the engine about 18 months ago too. And still throttle body problem. Everywhere i go, they'll say its throttle body problem, then end up overhaul, and change the throttle body to NEW ORIGINAL ONE, not recond, not taiwan made, blah blah blah... Still throttle body problem.
please, experts please advise.
Experts on grindbal (grind valve) and total body (throttle body) please don't advise. Improve your english first and learn to study specs sheets etc first ok. Don't cry ok.
real experts only please.
TQ
Mine is the step 1 throttle body, car bought in year 2000, its the throttle body with the adjustment screw at the top, i'm not sure if its the MMC or VDO tb.
Problem is, just at stop, upon reaching idling speed, it'll jerk with load (AC) and sometimes without load on the engine too, as though its insufficient in spark or electrical charge. The only thing i've not tried is the de-carbon treatment. Now the mechanic who sold me the throttle body saying it is the right throttle body, and proton authorised workshop saying its not. How do i really check? Is there a part number i can refer to?
Problem is, just at stop, upon reaching idling speed, it'll jerk with load (AC) and sometimes without load on the engine too, as though its insufficient in spark or electrical charge. The only thing i've not tried is the de-carbon treatment. Now the mechanic who sold me the throttle body saying it is the right throttle body, and proton authorised workshop saying its not. How do i really check? Is there a part number i can refer to?
You've already done a full engine overhaul, forget about the carbon remover.
I think I might have the service manual somewhere at home, let me go back and have a look. Since yours has the adjustment screw, it's a MMC throttle body. I'm hoping whoever sold you the throttle body identified whether your car is a MMC or a VDO Satria before installing the TB for you.
I'm not quite sure what you mean by "jerk as though it's insufficient in spark", based on my understanding it sounds like the idling RPM is so low the car feels like it wants to die off. If so, and your TB is the correct one, then it might just be a simple matter of adjusting the screw to achieve the right idling speed.
Btw, you can check if you have the right TB at Proton Parts Centre. Just give them a call and ask for the parts number. It's very possible that the TB you've been given is a lemon too or the TPS (throttle position sensor) is incorrectly positioned or damaged. Or it could just be the idling screw that needs fiddling with. Worst case scenario is the TB sold to you is a 'compatible' brand and not original Proton so the way it was made is inferior and is causing these problems.
I hate to say it but original Proton parts are actually quite good. Just that they are expensive.
Too many possibilities without seeing the actual car.
Oh and if you have a VAFC and have a knack for DIY, try this to see if you can adjust the TPS :
tacra's diy garage: TPS Voltage With SAFC2
---------- Post added at 03:29 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:27 PM ----------
Btw, one more thing you can try, find a friend with a normal working Satira 1.3 or 1.5 (MMC), then just temporarily swap the TB around. If it works on your car then you know what the problem is. If it doesn't, then it's not a TB issue and more investigation needs to be done
I think I might have the service manual somewhere at home, let me go back and have a look. Since yours has the adjustment screw, it's a MMC throttle body. I'm hoping whoever sold you the throttle body identified whether your car is a MMC or a VDO Satria before installing the TB for you.
I'm not quite sure what you mean by "jerk as though it's insufficient in spark", based on my understanding it sounds like the idling RPM is so low the car feels like it wants to die off. If so, and your TB is the correct one, then it might just be a simple matter of adjusting the screw to achieve the right idling speed.
Btw, you can check if you have the right TB at Proton Parts Centre. Just give them a call and ask for the parts number. It's very possible that the TB you've been given is a lemon too or the TPS (throttle position sensor) is incorrectly positioned or damaged. Or it could just be the idling screw that needs fiddling with. Worst case scenario is the TB sold to you is a 'compatible' brand and not original Proton so the way it was made is inferior and is causing these problems.
I hate to say it but original Proton parts are actually quite good. Just that they are expensive.
Too many possibilities without seeing the actual car.
Oh and if you have a VAFC and have a knack for DIY, try this to see if you can adjust the TPS :
tacra's diy garage: TPS Voltage With SAFC2
---------- Post added at 03:29 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:27 PM ----------
Btw, one more thing you can try, find a friend with a normal working Satira 1.3 or 1.5 (MMC), then just temporarily swap the TB around. If it works on your car then you know what the problem is. If it doesn't, then it's not a TB issue and more investigation needs to be done
Thank you so much for clearing this for me, you're right i think i've been sold and fitted the wrong TB, its similar looking to the 1.3 & 1.5 TB, yet it slightly different. Its got 3 nozzles coming out at the top near the letters P E A, which only one is used the other two isn't. I have a feeling its damaged when the car got over heated last weekend, the alternator belt snapped, Though the TB is only 7 weeks old, probably the plastic gears are kaput now, or not at 100% condition. I've checked the exact model for my TB, and the retail price is RM2,300++, cost for dealers to buy is around RM1,500++ .... the part number ends with 308, and mine ends with 307. So, i guess the cheaper alternative now is to find the exact second hand throttle body online, or try the repair kit first.
someone suggested to me to just modify the TB, something about re-routing or increasing the vacuum or boost or something like that, i have no clue exactly. But i'm gonna try the repair kit thing first tomorrow, as it cost only 70-80 bucks only. This TPS ur talking about, i went to the blog site u gave, and it says something about the voltage... Does that mean the switch or motor works by moving the gears according to the V and when the V isn't right its positioning of the gears also compromised? ...thats just for my knowledge btw.
someone suggested to me to just modify the TB, something about re-routing or increasing the vacuum or boost or something like that, i have no clue exactly. But i'm gonna try the repair kit thing first tomorrow, as it cost only 70-80 bucks only. This TPS ur talking about, i went to the blog site u gave, and it says something about the voltage... Does that mean the switch or motor works by moving the gears according to the V and when the V isn't right its positioning of the gears also compromised? ...thats just for my knowledge btw.
2300????? Did you call that Protonparts or got quoted elsewhere? That's daylight robbery! You might as well opt for those aftermarket throttlebodies then!
And yes, the voltage helps determine the positioning of the gears to some extent.
What does the repair kit consist of? I don't see how an alternator belt will affect your TB. Don't bother modifying unless you know what you're doing. And seriously ask around whether any of your friends have the same car which you can use for testing.
I cannot remember what the "P E A" stands for on the MMC TB, mine's a VDO. Hopefully someone will come in with some knowledge on this. Btw, did you try fiddling with the adjustor screw?
i doesn't remember all of it....
but P= purge (maybe related to throttle opening-closing movement)
E=?? (doesn't remember)
A= aircond auxilary signal....means when a/c compressor kick in...it can compensate the timing by using vaccum signal from a/c thru ISC (idle speed controller)
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