Cuz your monster have more power mar
Tried my battered 4g15 @ 100kmh, rpm at 3K
..then tried to go faster..no more gears..
.. damn it
Proton 4G13/4G15....Satria/Wira/Saga
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Cuz your monster have more power mar
Tried my battered 4g15 @ 100kmh, rpm at 3K
..then tried to go faster..no more gears.... damn it
me??... no lah... my car stock standard....
yalor... last time my friend told me... it is alwiz faster when u sit on the passenger side.... for drivers, there isnt anything as too much power.... we alwiz hungry for more... haha....
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Dunno, seems to be MIA for a while now, since the Great Debate
yeah i do agree with the passenger always feel the car is more powerful then what the driver feels... 
Excel,
aiya my car no mosnter la... as i always said, my car STOCKNIA... hehehe
Excel,
aiya my car no mosnter la... as i always said, my car STOCKNIA... hehehe
Excel,
aiya my car no mosnter la... as i always said, my car STOCKNIA... hehehe
yeah rite.... HAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAA......
well my advice is learn and understand everything 1st b4 deciding on everything.... do what is suit to ur driving style and needs... not follow what ppl do...
Thanks bro.....i will not touching the engine until further notice....ahahhahaha... :slug:
Just want to feel when we put something to our car....and want to fulfill our satisfaction only.....
Want to buy big and faster car cannot afford...so slowly BOT in or what ever just for syok2 sendiri only....
BOT is not a small thing to do... once u start with BOT, u'll need to keep on coming with other mods to balance the entire engine mod... think properly b4 deciding on BOT... and prepare with loads of cash.... maintenance for turbo on a non-turbo engine is not just oil change n simple check-ups...
New suggestion from my mechanic:
1)Change to bigger fw & skim a bit of flywheel
2)modified clutch cover and use clutch plate perdana (my clutch also habis already)
3)Lighten conrod, crank shaft & all those related internal things.(wil done by machine shop)
4)Full balancing every single rotating things.(flywheel,conrod & etc)
5)PnP
6) skim the piston head a bit.
7)Finally,remapped the ecu.( not sure about this.stock mmc ecu can be remapped kah?
TOTAL COST=RM 2100
According to him the engine will feel more torque & lighter (of course lah skim here & there).Any comments guys?:hmmmm:
1)Change to bigger fw & skim a bit of flywheel
2)modified clutch cover and use clutch plate perdana (my clutch also habis already)
3)Lighten conrod, crank shaft & all those related internal things.(wil done by machine shop)
4)Full balancing every single rotating things.(flywheel,conrod & etc)
5)PnP
6) skim the piston head a bit.
7)Finally,remapped the ecu.( not sure about this.stock mmc ecu can be remapped kah?
TOTAL COST=RM 2100
According to him the engine will feel more torque & lighter (of course lah skim here & there
).Any comments guys?:hmmmm:
Last edited:
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wondering, y want to skim piston head? u mean skim engine head?
mite as well throw in oversized 4g15 pistons, or if budget allows, a stroker kit since evrything will be torn down
those stuffs u mention are good stuffs hehe
mite as well throw in oversized 4g15 pistons, or if budget allows, a stroker kit since evrything will be torn down
those stuffs u mention are good stuffs hehe
My mechanic A said if I want to do stroker kit, the engine kosong price for 4g15p back here in JB is expensive nowdays.Around Rm 1700 to RM 1900.Plus upah everything the total cost would easily reach Rm3000++.He mentioned that there are possiblity for engine to overheat during long journey.Is it true?? So he recommend to me those lightened & blancing things.Plus I dont have to register for engine upgrade or punch my engine block.
But my mechanic B are willing to do this stoker kit things for RM1800 only.Plus new FW & clucth the price is around RM 2300.
Now...both method are within my budget.But which one the best should I choose?Guys help please....
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No, with a stroked 4g15, it wont overheat...if not habis liao powerzone kenak sue by those 4g15s that got 'stroked' by them, if still worried, just put in a twincore radiator to improve cooling
difference between a stock 4g15 and a stock 4g13 is obvious, and with a 4g15, it would be a better platform to start modding, this is my opinion
since the choice is only between these 2 engines, u will have to mod the 4g13 quite a bit to just match the stock 4g15...so for others here, dont need to mention 'if modify kao kao 4g15 baru can match stock 4g92/93' because threadstarter is only contemplating on doing up these 2 engines
retrofit, mebbe u shud go find the same car with urs, but with a stock 4g15 inside...then this may help u in making ur decision
just fyi, changing to a larger flywheel does not make u go faster
difference between a stock 4g15 and a stock 4g13 is obvious, and with a 4g15, it would be a better platform to start modding, this is my opinion
since the choice is only between these 2 engines, u will have to mod the 4g13 quite a bit to just match the stock 4g15...so for others here, dont need to mention 'if modify kao kao 4g15 baru can match stock 4g92/93' because threadstarter is only contemplating on doing up these 2 engines
retrofit, mebbe u shud go find the same car with urs, but with a stock 4g15 inside...then this may help u in making ur decision
just fyi, changing to a larger flywheel does not make u go faster
Thanks tofu,maybe you are right,I should test drive a satria with 4g15 engine first.Lighten the internal thing wont bring any bad side effect kah?:hmmmm:
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that one not too sure as never did it
all i noe is that after lightened, then it has to be balanced...and also cannot be lightened too much, and also cannot cincai choose where u want to lighten, it has to be on areas which face less stresses
all i noe is that after lightened, then it has to be balanced...and also cannot be lightened too much, and also cannot cincai choose where u want to lighten, it has to be on areas which face less stresses
Don simply skim here and there. If you dismantle everything then cylinder head will need to skim a bit which will result in slightly higher compression.
If you simply skim, then the balancing will be quite difficult to do. To quote someone from another form : Imagine you're holding a brick on a string. If you start to spin the brick it'll move right? You should be able to feel the forces of the spinning (I think it's called intertia?). Imagine if your brick was slightly off balance and you spin it, the spinning wouldn't as smooth and you'll probably experience wobbling.
Take your wheels for example, if you don't do balancing you'll feel some major wobbling at certain speeds. It'll damage something eventually if you don't fix the balancing right? What if you had already skimmed a bit off your wheel? Balancing would be pretty difficult.
I think if you're gonna mod the engine, don't just skim skim skim, you can lighten with aftermarket parts (like lightened crank pulley, etc) but skimming the original.... that one I seriously doubt its reliability. It was designed to function a certain way, changing the way it functions without changing it's material isn't quite safe me thinks.
If you simply skim, then the balancing will be quite difficult to do. To quote someone from another form : Imagine you're holding a brick on a string. If you start to spin the brick it'll move right? You should be able to feel the forces of the spinning (I think it's called intertia?). Imagine if your brick was slightly off balance and you spin it, the spinning wouldn't as smooth and you'll probably experience wobbling.
Take your wheels for example, if you don't do balancing you'll feel some major wobbling at certain speeds. It'll damage something eventually if you don't fix the balancing right? What if you had already skimmed a bit off your wheel? Balancing would be pretty difficult.
I think if you're gonna mod the engine, don't just skim skim skim, you can lighten with aftermarket parts (like lightened crank pulley, etc) but skimming the original.... that one I seriously doubt its reliability. It was designed to function a certain way, changing the way it functions without changing it's material isn't quite safe me thinks.
aiyah u all so mafan skim laa, potong laa, stroker laa..apo2 laa...
just buy some hicams, put some webers, skim da head, port da head (DIY laa :sleep:), LCP da fella :sleep:
then u can tapau most mildly modded 1.6s d maa
just buy some hicams, put some webers
, skim da head, port da head (DIY laa :sleep:), LCP da fella :sleep:then u can tapau most mildly modded 1.6s d maa
aiyah u all so mafan skim laa, potong laa, stroker laa..apo2 laa...
just buy some hicams, put some webers
then u can tapau most mildly modded 1.6s d maa
Aiyo boss dont want to tapau anybody lah boss.Just want add some shiok to my ride.
Just want to ask to those who have done the stroker kit.Do you guys punch the engine number or register with JPJ? Thanks.
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My mechanic A said if I want to do stroker kit, the engine kosong price for 4g15p back here in JB is expensive nowdays.Around Rm 1700 to RM 1900.Plus upah everything the total cost would easily reach Rm3000++.He mentioned that there are possiblity for engine to overheat during long journey.Is it true?? So he recommend to me those lightened & blancing things.Plus I dont have to register for engine upgrade or punch my engine block.
But my mechanic B are willing to do this stoker kit things for RM1800 only.Plus new FW & clucth the price is around RM 2300.
Now...both method are within my budget.But which one the best should I choose?Guys help please....
why not come down to klang do your stoker kit and New FW and clutch.... much much more cheaper than others place.........
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