Proton 4G13/4G15....Satria/Wira/Saga

[vr2turbo]

Also, AFPR = adjustable fuel PRESSURE regulator. It doesn't pump in more or less fuel, it just regulates the pressure of which the fuel is pumped in. If you wide open it then you'll likely flood the injector and go real rich. Too rich doesn't exactly protect anything and will result in plenty of carbon but overly lean is worse. All depends. If I recall correctly the ideal PSI was 3.4 for my Wira. You probably can try the same and dyno tune it.

I used one AFPR for a while only, Did not feel any difference, only that my FC dropped from 320km per tank to 280km.....lol

 

[N/A Proton Brudder]

btw anyone reccomend i use the flexible plastic hose for my cold air intake piping ? will t melt or weaken and chip overtime ue to the bonnet heat ? its a cold air induction kit ifound online

 

[gunnerzz]

btw anyone reccomend i use the flexible plastic hose for my cold air intake piping ? will t melt or weaken and chip overtime ue to the bonnet heat ? its a cold air induction kit ifound online

I am currently using that cheap funnel i bought couple years ago for RM18 or RM25 on my waja as the ori funnel already reput.
Since this funnel is much longer, i channel the intake part as far down behind the front bumper. So far it is intact. There is a picture of it in this forum somewhere.
On a cold night, u can feel how easy the engine breath as my ori intake still positioned inside the engine bay.

 

[N/A Proton Brudder]

I am currently using that cheap funnel i bought couple years ago for RM18 or RM25 on my waja as the ori funnel already reput.
Since this funnel is much longer, i channel the intake part as far down behind the front bumper. So far it is intact. There is a picture of it in this forum somewhere.
On a cold night, u can feel how easy the engine breath as my ori intake still positioned inside the engine bay.

what about the rain water issue ? how easily does water from the outside enter the intake and hydrolock the engine ?

 

[gunnerzz]

what about the rain water issue ? how easily does water from the outside enter the intake and hydrolock the engine ?

So far no problem...
my car is on stock suspension so its not that low.
unlike some car with holes on the bumper, mine is hidden behind the bumper...somewhere behind the front left signal+foglamp assembly.

The compromise is how quick my drop in becomes dirty. Opening the air filter housing is also not easy so i put one layer of the thin tissue like home aircond filter before the resonance box and change this frequently. It does not add restriction, i still feel the quicker response and macho intake sound.

 

[vr2turbo]

btw anyone reccomend i use the flexible plastic hose for my cold air intake piping ? will t melt or weaken and chip overtime ue to the bonnet heat ? its a cold air induction kit ifound online

Depends on the quality of your hoses. If cannot stand high heat they can become brittle over time....

 

[vr2turbo]

what about the rain water issue ? how easily does water from the outside enter the intake and hydrolock the engine ?

Like bro. gunnerzz mentioned, hide under the bumper, not expose directly out. Rain water is not an issue, with the pipe that low what you will be afraid off is going through flood waters.....

 

[Izso]

I used one AFPR for a while only, Did not feel any difference, only that my FC dropped from 320km per tank to 280km.....lol

You didn't tweak it properly ka?

what about the rain water issue ? how easily does water from the outside enter the intake and hydrolock the engine ?

Just route it away from the hot bits like manifold and you should be fine. Oh how do you plan to use the hose? As a cold air intake or you going to mount a pod filter at the end? I used to do this but I used the stock U-snorkel and put a pod filter at the end of the intake which was in the bumper. Removed a spotlight so nice clean air going to the pod filter, and snorkel was stock so the U shape prevented water from staying in there. All depends on how you mount it.

 

[vr2turbo]

You didn't tweak it properly ka?

Tried a few settings, in the end just remove it. Probably already running rich and went richer......lol

 

[N/A Proton Brudder]

i also just ordered a adjustable cam pulley by HKS. its to get ready for the high cam . has anyone experieced any improvement to the acceleration by retarding or advancing the cam timing ?

 

[Izso]

SOHC car - you're just looking at moving your power band here or there only. You won't improve anything much by adjusting the pulley on a stock cam

 

[parakey]

i also just ordered a adjustable cam pulley by HKS. its to get ready for the high cam . has anyone experieced any improvement to the acceleration by retarding or advancing the cam timing ?

Before fitting, I would advise you compare it against the timing mark from the original. If possible, take a pic of both side by side for future reference.

 

[N/A Proton Brudder]

ya. i knew that. i mean how dramatically does it affect powerband and power delivery throughout the rpm range when using a mild-agressive camshaft ? retard vs advanced. given i advanced my distributor timing by quite a lot already.

 

[N/A Proton Brudder]

Also was facinga problem starting when using an aftermarket tachometer. i needed one bcz the stock 1.3 one doesnt have an rpm meter built onto the cluster guage. whenever i attatch the signal wire to the (-) side of the distributor terminal,the car would'nt start. just cranking. (no spark?). when i remove the connection, the car starts like normal. How do you guys traditionally set your external tachometer ?

 

[vr2turbo]

ya. i knew that. i mean how dramatically does it affect powerband and power delivery throughout the rpm range when using a mild-agressive camshaft ? retard vs advanced. given i advanced my distributor timing by quite a lot already.

The more aggressive your cam, you gain high end but low end suffers. I did Advance timing on my former car, gain low end but high end rough....

 

[sanekit]

Also was facinga problem starting when using an aftermarket tachometer. i needed one bcz the stock 1.3 one doesnt have an rpm meter built onto the cluster guage. whenever i attatch the signal wire to the (-) side of the distributor terminal,the car would'nt start. just cranking. (no spark?). when i remove the connection, the car starts like normal. How do you guys traditionally set your external tachometer ?

why tap at distributor? try check behind your speedo. usually there's rpm wire already in the harness. just need to tap there. or tap from the ecu side.

 

[sanekit]

ECU pinout for MMC 4Gxx engine. credit to https://www.diytacra.com/2011/10/apexi-rev-speed-meter-rsm.html

 

[Izso]

ya. i knew that. i mean how dramatically does it affect powerband and power delivery throughout the rpm range when using a mild-agressive camshaft ? retard vs advanced. given i advanced my distributor timing by quite a lot already.

Changing the cam shaft means you're introducing a change in the lift and duration of the open/close lobe things.. so yes you will get more power with a cam change. The cam pulley does nothing other than shift the powerband around.

 

[N/A Proton Brudder]

ECU pinout for MMC 4Gxx engine. credit to https://www.diytacra.com/2011/10/apexi-rev-speed-meter-rsm.html

Thanks. What colour of the wire should i tap ?otherwise i have to splice one by one until i get an accurate reading on the tacho. i'll update my progress when im free.

 

[sanekit]

Thanks. What colour of the wire should i tap ?otherwise i have to splice one by one until i get an accurate reading on the tacho. i'll update my progress when im free.

i don't know what the color is. you can refer to the pin-out on the location of your rpm wire is, then trace the wire color behind the dash cluster/speedo. tap it there, tap 12v wire from your ignition key, tap lights if any from the signal stalk and ground to body.