Project "Kermit"

TitanRev

You think I print money?
Helmet Clan
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Mar 3, 2005
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DC, thanks to you for promoting the Go Badge..I just ordered one....Hahahaha...DC next time got any nice stuff that can buy online....link it to my FB ya...Thanks.. ^_^
 

pangyau

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Oct 17, 2009
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nazlinazrene,

perrghhh nak modding time ke bro? Baru balik job ke?
Look forward your ride to become monster & CANTIK like "kermit"

DarkChild,

The Go Badge can only fitted on MINI grill or can be fit with other maker like EVO?
Interested on the design laa... Thanks for sharing
 
Last edited:

Kevin Lee

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*laughs* Will go to Remus and get that done! :biggrin:

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Kermit plushie? *laughs*

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Lamborghini Verde Ithaca.
i bought a pikachu plushie for my yellow pikachu, though its far from finished!!

 

pangyau

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Kevin Lee,

You are different because you not rebuilding a car but restore a history.
of course taking longer time to finish...
 

neokenzo

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Oct 5, 2006
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Hi DC, mind sharing how much it cost to spray those rims and where you got it done?

Thanks :)
 

DarkChild

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Nov 16, 2003
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nazlinazrene,

perrghhh nak modding time ke bro? Baru balik job ke?
Look forward your ride to become monster & CANTIK like "kermit"

DarkChild,

The Go Badge can only fitted on MINI grill or can be fit with other maker like EVO?
Interested on the design laa... Thanks for sharing
Go Badges on Flickr.

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Hi DC, mind sharing how much it cost to spray those rims and where you got it done?

Thanks :)
PM'ed you.
 

davidcnz

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Sep 13, 2005
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Hie Bro ,


do u mind sharing how much it cost to smoke those headlight and where you got it done?
 

DarkChild

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DC, somethings wrong with the link you gave. It should be :

My gobadges - a set on Flickr
Thanks mate! :top:

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nice colour..saw it on flesh at tropicana mall yesterday...

Hahaha, yeap. Was there to catch a movie. :biggrin:

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Hie Bro ,


do u mind sharing how much it cost to smoke those headlight and where you got it done?
Sent you a PM. :burnout:

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Those who are interested in getting the "Joey Mod" done to their lights, here are the DIY instructions. Have fun!

Source NorthAmericanMotoring.com.
Here's the How To. I will work on it during the next few days as time permits.

Step 1 Remove the headlights from the bonnet.
1.1 Remove the electrical connection, remove the plumbing if you have headlight washers (I removed all the washers or plumbing stuff earlier--never used them.)
1.2 Undo the 3 screws holding the ballast and swing it down and away. You now have clear access to the 3 8mm nuts holding the headlight to the bonnet. Undo and remove the light through the front/top of the bonnet (this is only achievable if you swing the ballast out of the way, btw.)

Step 2 Disassemble the headlight - Remove the clear plastic lens cover.
2.1 You don't have to remove the chrome (or painted) headlight ring, but you can if you want. Mine is CF and glued on, so I couldn't remove it even if I wanted. If you do, be very careful not to break the small tabs that hold the ring to the plastic lens cover.
2.2 You need to heat up the silicone/rubber/goey stuff joint. See image below.



I used the "industrial" heat gun shown, and I don't think a hair dryer is hot enough, nor so easily directed accurately, but maybe it will work. If you put the light in the oven, you've got to remove all the metal stuff, which is a pita. I just worked slowly to heat up the entire joint, then began at the bottom (to the right in the photo) and once opening up a gap, pried it open with my fingers, cutting the goop with a knife. Some additional heat was needed but it's easy to "feel" how the goop is loosening up. It does stick to anything like the proverbial to a blanket, so I used disposable gloves, but I always use them...
btw, DONT clean the goop off. You need it to reseal the light. You don't need any new goop, you have enough, trust me!

Step 3: Remove facia
The chrome panel inside the black headlight housing that "fills the spaces" I call the facia. It is white plastic with a very thin layer of chrome--a little acetone and it's gone. It has tabs that fit it to the black housing--some are flat tabs and others are round pins. There are quite a few so don't be surprised. They have goop on them, but only from the interface between lens cover and housing--they are not glued in, but simply locate the facia while the housing and lens cover glue together.



Step 4: Remove headlight bulb
This is relatively easy, but here are the photos step by step:











Step 5: Remove projector ring
Once the facia is removed the chromed plastic ring around the projector lens is still attached. You must remove the lamp to access the tabs holding the ring on from the inside--you cannot, and should not, attempt to pull the ring off from the front!



Step 6: Prepare and Paint
You're pretty much on your own with this step, as you decide what parts get painted what color. The plastic is very receptive to paint, and removing the chrome is very easy as it's a very thin coating.
I ended up painting the facia dark silver, with the rings in front of the high beam a textured black. I also painted the projector ring dark silver.

Step 7: Putting it all back together
It's basically a reversal of the above steps with a few points to make.
7.1 Reinstall the smoke plastic inside the projector ring, then reinstall the projector ring onto the mount holding the projector lens.
7.2 Reinstall the bulb and the bulb retaining ring, and the ignitor and the cover.
7.3 Reinstall the facia. Remove as much of the goop as possible but if you don't get it all that's OK--it's better to leave some goop than get the goop on your beautifully painted facia! Push the facia into the tab slots until it's seated--it does not sit flush with the black housing as the clear lens is curved outward.
7.4 Avoid cleaning the inside of the clear lens as it will scratch and you'll see the scratches forever... I tried using a camera blower brush to get dust, etc out before sealing the thing up. Didn't really do a great job...
7.5 I hope you didn't remove the goop, as there's more than enough to reseal the light. I do not recommend applying more silicon when resealing.
7.6 Heat up the goop on both the housing and the lens cover. Lining up the cover is *very difficult*. I found a little tab at the edge that I could easily see had to line up, then concentrated on that as I fitted the two parts together. Once the goop A meets goop B, there's little chance of starting all over again. I kept heating the joint to soften the goop. You must push the parts together going around the circumference. The occasional heating keeps the process going, and you can make very minor alignment corrections as needed, but I'm talking a few silly millimeters here, folks.
7.7 You know when the parts are back together again as there is a shoulder on the black housing that sits flush with the edge of the bezel (be it chrome or painted in your case). I guess it took me about 15 minutes to do this step, but patience is rewarded.


And here's what they look like reinstalled and polished up.



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Bull-Frog!



Green Menaces! Special appearance by Tom!
 

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