Opinion on nissan b13 with sr20ve 20v?

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brokenjars

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Hi guys,
Recently i went to test drive a nissan sentra b13 with sr20ve 20v and 6 speed manual gearbox.
I am quite interested in the car.
Anybody have opinions on the reliability and maintenance?

Thanks
 

brokenjars

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Its not a 20 valve engine. The 20v is a common name for this engine haha. Yes this engine is a neo vvl with 204hp and 207nm torque. Similar to vtec when vvl opens haha.
 

Izso

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Hi guys,
Recently i went to test drive a nissan sentra b13 with sr20ve 20v and 6 speed manual gearbox.
I am quite interested in the car.
Anybody have opinions on the reliability and maintenance?

Thanks
B13 the Genting taxi is an aging platform. Parts will be hard to get and that goes for the SR20VE also. How'd that fella get the 1.6 endorsed to a 2.0? I used to have a B13 and it was a pretty simple car. Nothing fancy, nothing complicated. Just now the parts are going to be rare.
 

ixeo

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An old car, with a transplanted engine that probably involved wiring work, not to mention an engine that is overpowered for the original chassis. Sounds very familiar. Like a car mentioned in these forums. That's just parking.

@brokenjars trust me you really DON'T WANT to do this. Just buy a newer stock car.

Reliability: depends on the work done by the owner. 9 out 10 times its shit
Maintenance: depends on the above, if its shit, then you gonna have a hard time maintaining it cause 90% of the time you are fixing it.
 

brokenjars

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B13 the Genting taxi is an aging platform. Parts will be hard to get and that goes for the SR20VE also. How'd that fella get the 1.6 endorsed to a 2.0? I used to have a B13 and it was a pretty simple car. Nothing fancy, nothing complicated. Just now the parts are going to be rare.
Yes it is the taxi genting. Car looks to be ok, no weird noises or clanking when i test drive the car. He said he endorse 1.8, before he endorsed 2.0. I told him as long as he can get pass puspakom I am ok haha. SR20VE 20V engines are quite new, and the engine kosong are cheap too. Shouldn't be that hard to get I think?
 

brokenjars

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An old car, with a transplanted engine that probably involved wiring work, not to mention an engine that is overpowered for the original chassis. Sounds very familiar. Like a car mentioned in these forums. That's just parking.

@brokenjars trust me you really DON'T WANT to do this. Just buy a newer stock car.

Reliability: depends on the work done by the owner. 9 out 10 times its shit
Maintenance: depends on the above, if its shit, then you gonna have a hard time maintaining it cause 90% of the time you are fixing it.
Haha somehow I like older design cars. I was driving the AE101 4AGE blacktop manual 6 speed before I sold it today.

What are your suggestions on the type of cars I should go for?
Below 25k budget. The cheaper the better. haha
 

ixeo

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Haha somehow I like older design cars. I was driving the AE101 4AGE blacktop manual 6 speed before I sold it today.

What are your suggestions on the type of cars I should go for?
Below 25k budget. The cheaper the better. haha
Old cars definitely have their charm, the mechanical feel to it. RM25k budget, not sure if you can get a used Proton Iriz 1.6L with the 5 speed manual by Getrag.

Something like the Iriz offers you:
+Safer chassis, improved crumple zones and rigidity where needed
+Modern handling - Lotus inspired
+Rev happy (and thirsty) engine
+This variant gives you a Getrag 5 speed manual
 

brokenjars

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Old cars definitely have their charm, the mechanical feel to it. RM25k budget, not sure if you can get a used Proton Iriz 1.6L with the 5 speed manual by Getrag.

Something like the Iriz offers you:
+Safer chassis, improved crumple zones and rigidity where needed
+Modern handling - Lotus inspired
+Rev happy (and thirsty) engine
+This variant gives you a Getrag 5 speed manual
Yes modern cars definitely have better safety features and with better chassis. However i plan to buy this car as my project car and will have another modern family car soon. Hence due to my low budget, i plan to get a car with as powerful and fun engine and handling, couple with moderate maintenance.

Having sat on a modded toyota seg ae101 with 6 speed blacktop, i think the iriz will feel quite a downgrade to me. My blacktop can get me 0-100 in 7.8 seconds.
 

ixeo

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Yes modern cars definitely have better safety features and with better chassis. However i plan to buy this car as my project car and will have another modern family car soon. Hence due to my low budget, i plan to get a car with as powerful and fun engine and handling, couple with moderate maintenance.

Having sat on a modded toyota seg ae101 with 6 speed blacktop, i think the iriz will feel quite a downgrade to me. My blacktop can get me 0-100 in 7.8 seconds.
If you want a project car, buy @Izso 's #bmw1jzparking
2JZ yo. Apa lagi mau?

You offer him RM25k see he wanna sell or not. Since you will have another modern vehicle. Alternatively this one
https://www.mudah.my/Bmw+e34+2jz-70321924.htm?last=1

E34 with 2JZ. Personally I'd get a 3 series chassis over a 5 series.
 

brokenjars

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If you want a project car, buy @Izso 's #bmw1jzparking
2JZ yo. Apa lagi mau?

You offer him RM25k see he wanna sell or not. Since you will have another modern vehicle. Alternatively this one
https://www.mudah.my/Bmw+e34+2jz-70321924.htm?last=1

E34 with 2JZ. Personally I'd get a 3 series chassis over a 5 series.
2jz is 3000cc man. Sure maintenance and fuel consumption high. Not to mention the road tax haha
 

ixeo

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2jz is 3000cc man. Sure maintenance and fuel consumption high. Not to mention the road tax haha
Well your old car also 0-100km in 7.8 seconds. You wanna upgrade right. 2JZ confirm upgrade lor. @Izso one is 1JZ, also upgrade.
 

Izso

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Yes it is the taxi genting. Car looks to be ok, no weird noises or clanking when i test drive the car. He said he endorse 1.8, before he endorsed 2.0. I told him as long as he can get pass puspakom I am ok haha. SR20VE 20V engines are quite new, and the engine kosong are cheap too. Shouldn't be that hard to get I think?
The engine isn't hard to source parts. It's the car itself that's hard to source. Absorbers, bushes, gaskets, etc these days are not easy to source. Not impossible, just rare.

2jz is 3000cc man. Sure maintenance and fuel consumption high. Not to mention the road tax haha
Dude.. you want a turbo car what are you complaining about? Name a turbo car that has good fuel consumption and I'll tell you that you looked at the numbers wrong. Anyway, my 1JZ single turbo is not a thirsty bugger as long as I don't boost. I don't boost much now because the rears need to upsize so it gets me about 9-10km/L off-boost. On boost it drops to 5-6km/L

For 25k cash up front there isn't much you can opt for that's reasonably good on the FC and fun to drive. Would you consider conti? E36s sell between 9-15k depending on condition and capacity. The stock M50/S50 engines are pretty peppy and with a manual (which aren't rare) you can get pretty decent levels of fun. RWD, and parts are surprisingly plentiful (new) - just get the contacts off me, and bodykits and stuff aren't rare either. Looks better than most Japanese cars of the same age, era and cost too. Once you go RWD / AWD, you'll never want to go back to FWD again unless it's a Civic Type-R. Those are pretty awesome machines.
 
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vr2turbo

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The engine isn't hard to source parts. It's the car itself that's hard to source. Absorbers, bushes, gaskets, etc these days are not easy to source. Not impossible, just rare.
Body parts same like my Hyundai. Engine is mitsu base so quite ok, but body parts really hard to find, and absorbers are really expensive......
 
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MKMD428

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Hi guys,
Recently i went to test drive a nissan sentra b13 with sr20ve 20v and 6 speed manual gearbox.
I am quite interested in the car.
Anybody have opinions on the reliability and maintenance?

Thanks
I used to own B13, B14, N16 (2 times). All of them converted to 16ve, 20ve, 20DET W11.

About 20ve 20v, Easy to maintain. The engine is the same with SR20VET. Especially on the head part. SR's are all timing chain. So basically just take care of your engine oil.The chain is a bit different from 16ve and 20ve.
Back to the similarity (20VE 20V = 20VET) Similar in terms of using only one solenoid for VVL activation, thus the intake and exhaust opens at the same time (unlike SR16neovvl and SR20neovvl, both got 2 solenoids whereby they activate intake cams and exhaust cams separately). OemExhaust headers are big. 4-1 headers. Its an upgrade for 16ve and 20ve.
this engine, You can play around with FD2R (stock). This is from experience (a converted N16 with 20ve 20v) So imagine a lighter chassis that is B13.
The GB is 4.7 FD better than 16ve GB (4.4 FD)

Circa 2009, this Nissan primera P12 20ve 20v halfcut would command a price of between 10-13k. Current market is below 9k.
And those days, foremans are facing difficulty when converting this halfcut to another chassis because its TB is sensor activated, not cable.
So they just convert it to WORKS TB and run by cable. As time went by, google becomes wider and more plenty with infos, this prob was resolved and there are foremans that successful in maintaining the electronic TB. (But majority will still prefer converting to cable operated TB). I am not sure about yours. Just put a picture here.

B13 nowadays parts are plenty to come by. new or used. No worries. No prob.No headache.Because some are interchangeable between B14 and N16. If one were to take out the interchangeable factors out...Again i would say it is not a headache at all. Still easy to find used or new. So many B13 users out there. Stock GA or converted to SR.
I have seen so many converted B13 that still runs strong until today.

B13 is the best handling sentra, nissan has ever produced, because: No rear torsion beam. And B13 has the most bushings (front and rear) as compared to other sentra (B14 and N16).

Endorsing from 1.6 to 2.0 is not and never a problem for nissan. Been there, done that by myself. No runner. We are not talking about proton here.
 
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brokenjars

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I used to own B13, B14, N16 (2 times). All of them converted to 16ve, 20ve, 20DET W11.

About 20ve 20v, Easy to maintain. The engine is the same with SR20VET. Especially on the head part. SR's are all timing chain. So basically just take care of your engine oil.The chain is a bit different from 16ve and 20ve.
Back to the similarity (20VE 20V = 20VET) Similar in terms of using only one solenoid for VVL activation, thus the intake and exhaust opens at the same time (unlike SR16neovvl and SR20neovvl, both got 2 solenoids whereby they activate intake cams and exhaust cams separately). OemExhaust headers are big. 4-1 headers. Its an upgrade for 16ve and 20ve.
this engine, You can play around with FD2R (stock). This is from experience (a converted N16 with 20ve 20v) So imagine a lighter chassis that is B13.
The GB is 4.7 FD better than 16ve GB (4.4 FD)

Circa 2009, this Nissan primera P12 20ve 20v halfcut would command a price of between 10-13k. Current market is below 9k.
And those days, foremans are facing difficulty when converting this halfcut to another chassis because its TB is sensor activated, not cable.
So they just convert it to WORKS TB and run by cable. As time went by, google becomes wider and more plenty with infos, this prob was resolved and there are foremans that successful in maintaining the electronic TB. (But majority will still prefer converting to cable operated TB). I am not sure about yours. Just put a picture here.

B13 nowadays parts are plenty to come by. new or used. No worries. No prob.No headache.Because some are interchangeable between B14 and N16. If one were to take out the interchangeable factors out...Again i would say it is not a headache at all. Still easy to find used or new. So many B13 users out there. Stock GA or converted to SR.
I have seen so many converted B13 that still runs strong until today.

B13 is the best handling sentra, nissan has ever produced, because: No rear torsion beam. And B13 has the most bushings (front and rear) as compared to other sentra (B14 and N16).

Endorsing from 1.6 to 2.0 is not and never a problem for nissan. Been there, done that by myself. No runner. We are not talking about proton here.
Thanks for the detailed explaination. Yes i am quite interested in the b13 chassis and change upon a guy selling his b13 sentra for 13k with the sr20ve 20v from primera p12. However his roof is rusted and have a hole hence needed to change roof and repaint whole body. Interior is original b13 with pulsar meter and wiring. Throttle body is like what u said, a works 70mm tb. Using de distributer and ditch out the original coil packs. I am just not sure whether this is a good buy? Tested and engine sound fine and the pull is strong. However due to needing to spend another 4k (roof, paint, absorbers, spoilt radio) i am having second doubts.

And another foreman told me he can do a sr20vet conversion from the nissan xtrail gt with 280ps into the b13 body. Estimated cost around 9-10k . If that is the case, i am wondering is it better to take a slightly higher risk and buy a used unmodded sentra for 4k for this conversion?
I wanted to best if possible. Total for this i am thinking maybe spending around 17-18k.
 

MKMD428

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I doubt it will cost 9-10k, halfcut alone cost 8-9k, and be advised...you definitely gonna source a 2wd gearbox (you cannot lock a 4wd nissan GB, but anyway..20VET is AT 4WD, so definitely no use) with its accessories (mounting, hangar mountings, inner CV, clutch pump assemblies, starter motor, flywheel, etc..) this alone will cost up to 2k. (lets not forget off course you must upgrade your clutch and clutch cover and a bit of customization of the driveshaft). Off course you can use a cheaper GB (the 8.5 inch bell housing, smaller shaft, cable operated), but this is 20vet, with a lot of torque and ponies, i recommend AT LEAST a 9 inch big shaft GB, (forget about 9.5 inch GB, a complete set will cost you almost 3k and this is a really pain in the ass to find a complete set)

and then the intercoolers, OEM 20VET wont fit into B13, you gonna have to do FMIC, that also incurred cost.
and not to forget the small2 items (aircond piping, exhaust piping, oils, labours etc)

So all in all, it would never be 9-10k. That foreman is not transparent enough, better ask him seriously what type of conversion he offered for the 20vet that he quoted so cheap about 9-10k. With that kind of price it is very very very fishy.

If its engine lantai.....forget it.

20VET is not plug and play into B13 chassis, its a hell lot of work.
Only these are plug and play:
1. SR20DET N14 Gtir
2. SR16Neovvl
3. SR18DE B13 GTS
4. SR20DE B13 SER
5. SR18 non GTS Y10
6. SR20DE Y10
7. SR20DE P10
8. SR20neovvl P11
 

brokenjars

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I doubt it will cost 9-10k, halfcut alone cost 8-9k, and be advised...you definitely gonna source a 2wd gearbox (you cannot lock a 4wd nissan GB, but anyway..20VET is AT 4WD, so definitely no use) with its accessories (mounting, hangar mountings, inner CV, clutch pump assemblies, starter motor, flywheel, etc..) this alone will cost up to 2k. (lets not forget off course you must upgrade your clutch and clutch cover and a bit of customization of the driveshaft). Off course you can use a cheaper GB (the 8.5 inch bell housing, smaller shaft, cable operated), but this is 20vet, with a lot of torque and ponies, i recommend AT LEAST a 9 inch big shaft GB, (forget about 9.5 inch GB, a complete set will cost you almost 3k and this is a really pain in the ass to find a complete set)

and then the intercoolers, OEM 20VET wont fit into B13, you gonna have to do FMIC, that also incurred cost.
and not to forget the small2 items (aircond piping, exhaust piping, oils, labours etc)

So all in all, it would never be 9-10k. That foreman is not transparent enough, better ask him seriously what type of conversion he offered for the 20vet that he quoted so cheap about 9-10k. With that kind of price it is very very very fishy.

If its engine lantai.....forget it.

20VET is not plug and play into B13 chassis, its a hell lot of work.
Only these are plug and play:
1. SR20DET N14 Gtir
2. SR16Neovvl
3. SR18DE B13 GTS
4. SR20DE B13 SER
5. SR18 non GTS Y10
6. SR20DE Y10
7. SR20DE P10
8. SR20neovvl P11
He said he done it before for 9.3k into a b13. For the price he quoted, it is until the car can be driven on the road, not including puspakom and jpj of course. Also I have to trade in my original b13 engine and the exhaust he will only do until the middle, the rest he will just sambung with my original piping.

Yes, he also said for the sr20vet only the engine is going to be used, the rest are not suitable so he will mix the parts with other cars. So he said buying halfcut is rugi only. Overall his package is until the car can move for around 10k max.

Why is an engine lantai?
 

vr2turbo

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He said he done it before for 9.3k into a b13. For the price he quoted, it is until the car can be driven on the road, not including puspakom and jpj of course. Also I have to trade in my original b13 engine and the exhaust he will only do until the middle, the rest he will just sambung with my original piping.

Yes, he also said for the sr20vet only the engine is going to be used, the rest are not suitable so he will mix the parts with other cars. So he said buying halfcut is rugi only. Overall his package is until the car can move for around 10k max.

Why is an engine lantai?
Engine Lantai is the engine only. Halfcut comes with everything in that half which was cut. Some take it apart and sell separate, therefore the engine alone is the engine lantai.....
 

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