Essential RX maintenance

[13btt]

Essential RX maintenance & modifications

This thread is to educate those who are new to rotary or plan on buying a rotary engine vehicle as to the essential regular maintenance required to keep your ride running without a hiccup....

My advice would be the following:

1. keep boost less than 1.0bar
2. keep water temps under control (i.e. less than 110 degrees celsius)
3. ensure sufficient fuel especially under high revs & boost (check/replace filter regularly)
4. change plugs every 10,000kms or less (top end will hesitate if worn)
5. get boost & water meters (& boost controller if changed dp, air filters & exhaust)
6. change radiator to 2 or 3-core for better cooling
7. ensure rubber hoses are good (especially near turbos) USE high quality clamps!
8. flush cooling system regularly & add water wetter & less than 20% coolant (preferably toyota or nissan brand)
9. replace / partially remove thermostat
10. ensure radiator fans can operate at full speed (or that they operate - no kidding can not work at all) However, this was due to dipstick accessory shop person thinking he is too smart for the car owner (me)
11. DO NOT OVERHEAT YOUR ENGINE!!!!!!!
12. DO NOT BOOST HIGHER THAN 1.0bar ON A REGULAR BASIS!!!!!
13. LET YOUR ENGINE WARM-UP BEFORE THRASHING IT DOWN THE ROAD!!!!!

 

[endless551]

Don't forget to redline it regularly to prevent carbon build-ups!

 

[jasonlel]

13btt,

I have some few questions here...

1. Refer to yor point 2. by keeping the water temp <110 degrees celsius. So izzit a norm/ok for FD to operate between 90dc - 100dc?

2. "replace / partially remove thermostat" -> any where I can read about this or perhaps you care to eleborate? :p

3. change radiator to 2 or 3-core for better cooling is really a good idea. Any recommendation?

This thread is to educate those who are new to rotary or plan on buying a rotary engine vehicle as to the essential regular maintenance required to keep your ride running without a hiccup....

My advice would be the following:

1. keep boost less than 1.0bar
2. keep water temps under control (i.e. less than 110 degrees celsius)
3. ensure sufficient fuel especially under high revs & boost (check/replace filter regularly)
4. change plugs every 10,000kms or less (top end will hesitate if worn)
5. get boost & water meters (& boost controller if changed dp, air filters & exhaust)
6. change radiator to 2 or 3-core for better cooling
7. ensure rubber hoses are good (especially near turbos) USE high quality clamps!
8. flush cooling system regularly & add water wetter & less than 20% coolant (preferably toyota or nissan brand)
9. replace / partially remove thermostat
10. ensure radiator fans can operate at full speed (or that they operate - no kidding can not work at all) However, this was due to dipstick accessory shop person thinking he is too smart for the car owner (me)
11. DO NOT OVERHEAT YOUR ENGINE!!!!!!!
12. DO NOT BOOST HIGHER THAN 1.0bar ON A REGULAR BASIS!!!!!
13. LET YOUR ENGINE WARM-UP BEFORE THRASHING IT DOWN THE ROAD!!!!!

 

[13btt]

Standard for FD to run between 82 and 110 degrees but much safer to run under 100 degrees most of the time. These temps are with the oem 82 thermostat in place.

The guys in the USA Mazda Racing team run their RXs using a drilled out thermostat with excellent results, as they reckon it is a good idea to have some water flow resistance.

I have been using a custom made radiator from FRC in Sunway for about 3 years now and am very happy with it - however it doesn't offer the 'bling-bling" factor that some of you like! That is to say it is a copper 3-core painted black - copper conducts heat much better than aluminium!

If you use the above radiator with 20% toyota coolant plus 1 bottle redline water wetter, real distilled water and a pivot fan controller and I can control temps well below 110 degrees with ease - no more stress in traffic when you see the temps normally shoot up to 120!!!!!!!!!!!! without these mods.

 

[jc@]

anyone using V-mount setting for your radiator and intercooler?
i heard it will reduce even more temp.

you all using 1.3 bar radiator cap?shouldnt you keep it down to 0.9 bar?
so that the temp. in the engine bay wont be so high.
dont shoot me if im wrong.im learning and im a rotary fans.
but no rotary charged vehicle yet...haha

 

[DRFT_240sx]

v-mount works better on moving vehicle (track cars) not city car which u stop for traffic jam and all as with a v-mount if not properly ducted and enclosed it will become heat soaked i/c

 

[13btt]

Radiator Cap Recommendation

My preference is to use 0.9bar or 1.1bar radiator max.

I understand Mazda in US and Australia did a recall to change the radiator cap to 0.9bar amongst other items. The higher the radiator cap the higher the boiling point of your coolant although it puts more strain on your tired combustion & water o-rings which is bad leading to an engine that consumes water and pushes the stuff out the overflow bottle and on the ground - very embarrassing! ....this is what forced me to rebuild my engine in early 2002.

anyone using V-mount setting for your radiator and intercooler?
i heard it will reduce even more temp.

you all using 1.3 bar radiator cap?shouldnt you keep it down to 0.9 bar?
so that the temp. in the engine bay wont be so high.
dont shoot me if im wrong.im learning and im a rotary fans.
but no rotary charged vehicle yet...haha

 

[jasonlel]

What about this combo, 1 bottle toyota coolant + 1 bottle redline water wetter + real distilled water ..... Izzit too much coolant?

Standard for FD to run between 82 and 110 degrees but much safer to run under 100 degrees most of the time. These temps are with the oem 82 thermostat in place.

The guys in the USA Mazda Racing team run their RXs using a drilled out thermostat with excellent results, as they reckon it is a good idea to have some water flow resistance.

I have been using a custom made radiator from FRC in Sunway for about 3 years now and am very happy with it - however it doesn't offer the 'bling-bling" factor that some of you like! That is to say it is a copper 3-core painted black - copper conducts heat much better than aluminium!

If you use the above radiator with 20% toyota coolant plus 1 bottle redline water wetter, real distilled water and a pivot fan controller and I can control temps well below 110 degrees with ease - no more stress in traffic when you see the temps normally shoot up to 120!!!!!!!!!!!! without these mods.

 

[phat7]

sounds good jason. i use the same combo and have had excellent reseults. i'm reviewing Motuls coolant which claims to have the same additive as water wetter so i'll report back later. Also FYI, Toyota Coolant and Proton Coolant is manufactured at the same place. Only difference is colour. Have you changed your ast?

 

[jasonlel]

Thats great..

I wanted to change my ast, anywhere I can get it and resonable price?

Will this ast fit a FD? http://zerotohundred.com/newforums/showthread.php?t=46689

*phat, when can i collect the meter panels? :p

sounds good jason. i use the same combo and have had excellent reseults. i'm reviewing Motuls coolant which claims to have the same additive as water wetter so i'll report back later. Also FYI, Toyota Coolant and Proton Coolant is manufactured at the same place. Only difference is colour. Have you changed your ast?

 

[phat7]

yo jason just pick up the air separator thingy from aerospeed. costs approximately 220 i think. the meter panel is sitting here waiting for its new owner la---> you!! :)

 

[jasonlel]

Where is aerospeed? :p :p

yo jason just pick up the air separator thingy from aerospeed. costs approximately 220 i think. the meter panel is sitting here waiting for its new owner la---> you!! :)

 

[reartyre]

What about this combo, 1 bottle toyota coolant + 1 bottle redline water wetter + real distilled water ..... Izzit too much coolant?

Q1: Can all this coolant issue be done at ah choys ... and if i would diy ... 1 bottle of toyota coolant of what type + 1 bottle of redline water wetter of what kind ....

Q2: What is ast...

Q7: Phat7 .. do you diy your engine oil at home or somewhere or got it done at ah choys



thanks

 

[jasonlel]

Q1: 1 toyota coolant red color + 1 bottle of redline water wetter (I think only 1 type, can get in enos,1 utama) + lots of battery water

Q2: Air seperator tank

Q1: Can all this coolant issue be done at ah choys ... and if i would diy ... 1 bottle of toyota coolant of what type + 1 bottle of redline water wetter of what kind ....

Q2: What is ast...

Q7: Phat7 .. do you diy your engine oil at home or somewhere or got it done at ah choys



thanks

 

[reartyre]

Q1: 1 toyota coolant red color + 1 bottle of redline water wetter (I think only 1 type, can get in enos,1 utama) + lots of battery water

Q2: Air seperator tank

lots of battery water = distilled water ... ?????

Q2: Air seperator tank = what is it for ....

Q3: ur using Castrol Semi right ... what is the viscosity ...

 

[reartyre]

I Think We Need To Have A Workshop Day La ..... It Just Kills Me To Visualize All The Thing That Needs To Be Done ....

 

[13btt]

My understanding of coolant as follows:

The coolant (green or red stuff) contains ethylene glycol which is primary used to raise the boiling point of water above 100 degree celsius and also to stop the water & coolant mixture from freezing in sub 0 temps (not needed as we always stinking hot in KL!). In addition to this it helps to lubricate the water pumps seals (very important) and prevent corrosion of aluminium & iron engine internals - you'll notice it is a little oily.

However, ethylene glycol (coolant) also reduces the heat absorption of water and thus reduces its ability to transfer heat from the engine to the radiator therefore the more coolant you have the less heat transfer too = higher water & engine temps.

The water wetter is to reduce localised boiling by reducing bubbles in the water and in turn increases water to metal contact for better heat transfer. Air you should remember from chemistry/physics is a very good insulator (i.e. doesn't conduct heat very well).

Hence, if you put the above understanding into practice you should keep coolant mixture low ie less than 30% IMO for optimal effect i.e. good heat transfer of water and slight increase in boiling point of water.

Also as far as radiator caps go they are designed to raise the pressure of the cooling system as a higher pressure equals higher boiling point of water too. BUT too high a pressure (i.e. 1,3bar) stresses the o-rings in your engine leading to premature failure = full rebuild required.

Hence IMO use 0.9bar to be safe or max 1.1bar if you need a little higher boiling point of the water.

I trust the above explains the whole thingee and removes any confusion?!?!

 

[Alchemis]

i got myself a SARD alluminum AST... it comes with a 1.3 BAR cap... guess i need to put in another cap..... wasted..... the SARD 1.3 BAR cap is EXPENSIVE if purchased seperately.....

 

[reartyre]

Standard for FD to run between 82 and 110 degrees but much safer to run under 100 degrees most of the time. These temps are with the oem 82 thermostat in place.

hey mr gwai loh ! ... when can u help me fix my apex'i water temp ... been waiting since the third day i bought my car man !

thanks man

 

[phat7]

reartyre- is yours a electronic or analog?