BOT (Bolt On Turbo)

[Shinjite]

hi there bro shinjite thanks for your feedback , regarding that yes ill be changing to but forgot to mention earlier. currently thinking to get walbro 255 or avs 255 (cheaper) and fuel regulator. Any suggested alternative for fuel pump? as well as any recommendation for FPR? Thanks

---------- Post added at 04:15 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:13 PM ----------

Btw the installer said without piggyback tune otr , with piggyback tune with dyno. My question is how he's gonna tune otr without any piggyback? rechip recommended?

For brand new fuel pump, I would recommend DeatschWerks (DW) because so far no imitation products of it and really silent compared to Walbro. No feedback on AVS as I haven't use it before. Alternatively you can use EVO fuel pumps/4G93T fuel pumps :proud:

 

[y2188]

Any idea how much would it cost? and where can i get it? will any of this fuel pump experience problem like when petrol is less cannot supply fuel properly? is it the same length with the ori one. how much would evo or gsr fuel pump cost too? thanks for your help

 

[Shinjite]

Last I bought my DW200 Fuel Pump (255lph) was at RM380 pre GST. Now I think over RM400 already post GST at N1 Racing
About the EVO/93T fuel pumps, I am not sure on the price. You will need to check with the half cut shop.

 

[y2188]

Thanks for your info, really useful yeah, i checked at mudah about 400 plus what about fuel regulator? any suggestion?

 

[vr2turbo]

After transplant my VR in am still using the standard fuel pump woh!.....:hmmmm:

 

[4gbanger]

After transplant my VR in am still using the standard fuel pump woh!.....:hmmmm:

dude, your car is a legend. 2nd generation of WRC frm mmc that won rally. u dont transplant also already fast..

---------- Post added at 08:16 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:12 AM ----------

my suggestion, dont use walbro or other 255lph aftermarket FP if u r really going for high horsepower. cos it might need more stable current or new rewiring from your ecu. like mine, swap to AVS 255 lph has making my car towed 4 times in 2 weeks due to FP not functioning. To me better get OEM parts that fits nice and works good with OEM socket everything.

 

[Shinjite]

Touch wood, my DW200 still works fine after one year of usage :)

Anyway, OEM 4G91 fuel pump, what is the specification? So far I know EVO 1 80lph, EVO 2 and 3 100lph

 

[y2188]

Hmm i bought this car second hand transplanted with 4G91 already, so i'm not really sure whether the past owner has change the fuel pump. So i assume, its still stock 1.5 satria fuel pump. So aftermarket fuel pump prone to fail? is it true? :hmmmm: what should i do please advise all sifus

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

dude, your car is a legend. 2nd generation of WRC frm mmc that won rally. u dont transplant also already fast..

---------- Post added at 08:16 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:12 AM ----------

my suggestion, dont use walbro or other 255lph aftermarket FP if u r really going for high horsepower. cos it might need more stable current or new rewiring from your ecu. like mine, swap to AVS 255 lph has making my car towed 4 times in 2 weeks due to FP not functioning. To me better get OEM parts that fits nice and works good with OEM socket everything.

only walbro not recommended...due to the internal gerotor pump type (same as engine oilpump rotor design) it would require high current load...so need re-wiring....

other type aftermarket fuelpump that have turbin type pump (like DW and aeromotive have high flow and pressure and super silent)

*im using aeromotive 340 stealth now...more stable fuel pressure over my previous walbro....walbro keep as backup on the trunk now

Touch wood, my DW200 still works fine after one year of usage :)

Anyway, OEM 4G91 fuel pump, what is the specification? So far I know EVO 1 80lph, EVO 2 and 3 100lph

Hmm i bought this car second hand transplanted with 4G91 already, so i'm not really sure whether the past owner has change the fuel pump. So i assume, its still stock 1.5 satria fuel pump. So aftermarket fuel pump prone to fail? is it true? :hmmmm: what should i do please advise all sifus

fuel pump as long as u get enough pressure and decent injector duty cycle on max load @ max rpm...should be ok...unless u were getting lean af ratio on high rpm / high load...then time to upgrade fuelpump...

 

[y2188]

Hi there, well i guess i'll go with the DW fuel pump as suggested earlier by bro shinjite and further explanation by pomen gtr.... anyway is the length of it same like oem pump? will it experience problem when almost empty? Do i need to change my wiring if using DW?

 

[Shinjite]

Hi there, well i guess i'll go with the DW fuel pump as suggested earlier by bro shinjite and further explanation by pomen gtr.... anyway is the length of it same like oem pump? will it experience problem when almost empty? Do i need to change my wiring if using DW?

Length is almost the same as OEM, wiring and all your foreman will know what to do. The kit comes with everything needed out of the box. When the almost empty part, just don't do it frequently. When the fuel light comes on, just refill the tank.

---------- Post added at 02:25 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:24 PM ----------

fuel pump as long as u get enough pressure and decent injector duty cycle on max load @ max rpm...should be ok...unless u were getting lean af ratio on high rpm / high load...then time to upgrade fuelpump...

I assumed his is a 4G91 OEM fuel pump and he targeting 200whp, I doubt it could hold the AFR at high rpms

 

[y2188]

Length is almost the same as OEM, wiring and all your foreman will know what to do. The kit comes with everything needed out of the box. When the almost empty part, just don't do it frequently. When the fuel light comes on, just refill the tank.

---------- Post added at 02:25 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:24 PM ----------



I assumed his is a 4G91 OEM fuel pump and he targeting 200whp, I doubt it could hold the AFR at high rpms

Okay bro shinjite for your opinion, appreciate it hehehe i usually pump before the fuel light comes on because for my warning light to come on the needle is point at the E line or almost lower better safe than sorry .... mind telling me what car do you drive? and bro pomen_gtr thats my concern about the oem fuel pump i doubt that it can supply enough fuel at high rpm as mentioned by shinjite....

 

[Shinjite]

Okay bro shinjite for your opinion, appreciate it hehehe i usually pump before the fuel light comes on because for my warning light to come on the needle is point at the E line or almost lower better safe than sorry .... mind telling me what car do you drive? and bro pomen_gtr thats my concern about the oem fuel pump i doubt that it can supply enough fuel at high rpm as mentioned by shinjite....

Me just Proton Wira with 4G63T.....used to be running an OEM EVO 3 fuel pump then I hit it's limit (could be due to old age too so efficiency dropped over the years) at 1.2 bar on dyno with stock E3 turbo and at 6500rpm it went lean already so that was the limit. On engine around 300BHP. After that I straight upgrade to DW200 FP and retune it back and just run happily without any worries until found out bearing makan in the block, end up rebuilding and now just run in session

Still keeping the OEM FP just in case

 

[e-jump]

i would suggest ask your mech if he is familiar with the wiring of specific pump, or he's all rounder can install anything.
On my D16 BOT, at first i thought my original fuelpump was sufficient for low boost 0.5bar (was not swapped during BOT installation)..
On road tuning i got stutters at high rpm.. Since then I swapped in walbro 255.. Im not sure how difficult is the wiring but the mech installed a dedicated fuse for it.

As long you have a power goal baseline and pick the right turbo for target boost level, everything else will follow/falls in accordingly when necessary.
My BOT project was not a 1 time deal. I had to swap pumps, clutch upgrades, headgasket etc later on.

Im not really familiar w/ TD04, but isnt that a lil small? I started with 'small'T28 for my 1.6L.
I got 180whp @0.5bar w/ slipping clutch.. all subsequent tune was OTR so i never know if i got higher now.

 

[y2188]

Wow bro shinjite nice ride hehehe upgrade forged internals eh anyway are you using the "hard" break in or the normal way while running in?


Hi ejump nice ride heheh.... would check with my mech thanks for your advice hmm Td04L that comes with gsr, should be good enough for 200hp just nice or maybe TD04HL heheheh as i dont want unnecessary turbo lag trying to keep it to minimal. Overall its still a 1.5( soon to be 1.6) is the walbro noisy?

 

[Shinjite]

Walbro is noisy..... DW is like OEM. My ride I do normal run in method is enough. It's my daily driven car :D

Nola, not forged, using 4D68 crank with 2jz pistons. Conrod used back Evo 3. Daily driven so boost max 1 bar only.

 

[y2188]

wow nice ride mate hahah i shall go with DW. Nice set up u have thr bro 4D68 crank more tahan? or the stroke diff? anyway is gsr piston enough to take 1.2 bar max? daily driven will be 1bar or should i go with 4A-GZE piston instead....please advice

 

[Shinjite]

wow nice ride mate hahah i shall go with DW. Nice set up u have thr bro 4D68 crank more tahan? or the stroke diff? anyway is gsr piston enough to take 1.2 bar max? daily driven will be 1bar or should i go with 4A-GZE piston instead....please advice

Basically mine is a poor man 2.2L stroker kit. About the gsr/4agze pistons, wait for the experienced guys to answer that for you.

 

[e-jump]

>is Walbro noisy?..

hmm.. honestly other than the gruuuuu when im about to start the engine, i dont really notice any obvious sound during driving.
Maybe Im hearing the engine and creaks of my adjustable suspension more over the pump sound.

Im not sure if race bearing is necessary, i only use ACL Duraglides on my engine(the only non stock part other than cometic hg)but i had to import myself from usa.
If you have access to race bearing and price diff is not large over superstreet tier bearings, go for it. :thumbs:

 

[Shinjite]

>is Walbro noisy?..

hmm.. honestly other than the gruuuuu when im about to start the engine, i dont really notice any obvious sound during driving.
Maybe Im hearing the engine and creaks of my adjustable suspension more over the pump sound.

Im not sure if race bearing is necessary, i only use ACL Duraglides on my engine(the only non stock part other than cometic hg)but i had to import myself from usa.
If you have access to race bearing and price diff is not large over superstreet tier bearings, go for it. :thumbs:

Mine old Walbro 255lph had the loud whining sound from it.....annoying