2002 Satria GTi with Juttering Problems

[babyien]

Hi,

I'm not sure if anyone else had this experience. I've been recently told that a lot the Satria post 2000 models have juttering problems.

I own a 2002 Satria GTi (still with stock-specs) and it's giving me problems while accelerating at most times. My car jutters as though the clutch is not well-balanced. The problem started off with a small jerk when I accelerate on the 2nd gear, about a year ago.

Tried going back to the Proton Edar Service Centres and Dealers but none managed to even find the root cause of the problem!!! None of them gave me the warranty support that I'm entitled to... as usual, what can I say, it's Proton.

Left my car overnight before, problem persists after a week or so. There was once, the PESB so-called "Technical Advisor" said they changed the spark plugs cables to solve the problem, problem came back after a week.

I recently had a friend who owns a workshop to check my car, he said the spark plugs cables were NOT changed at all. They looked like they were taken out, given another layer of grease.

I have been advised to change to wiring and parts of the 99 models to completely end this agony. It'll cost me RM2000-2500.

Is this true?



baby ien
lost n helpless...

 

[PocketRocket]

aww...sorry to hear that...
cant really help u but morally support u ok...
free bump :lol:
wanna join our yum cha sessions?
satria family... :P

 

[babyien]

Thanks PocketRocket.

I'd love to join but can't promise if I can make it to all the sessions.

When n where?

 

[SiGNAL]

I suggest you post your questions in the Proton section too. There have more proton experts...

 

[gspot]

Baby,
Ah.. the Siemens batch.. known to be quite temperamental electronically. There's always a prob with the spark cables, the TB, the intake sensors and also the tuning. Well, at least yours jutter.. some engine would just stutter and die especially during deceleration. And a good PE tech advisor is damn hard to come by also nowadays.. :( Which PE you went to?

Well, for starters, it'll be good to check and clean the throttle body and sensors as they are very sensitive to dirt build up. Do an engine diagnostic and re-tune it. Change to aftermarket spark cables (cost vary from RM100 onwards depending on the core but surely beats the stock ones which comes with a hefty price tag of RM300) but this is a later option laa.. unless the stock cables really are gone, of which is very likely to.

Certainly, to convert the wiring, sensors, ECU, TB and Intake manifold to the ol' Mitsu, would be a good investment (tested and proven maa) but comparatively, it is quite a pricey exercise you have quoted there.

But then again, a well maintained, tuned up and lightly modded Siemens GTi can be fast too!

 

[tombstone]

ah babyien.... my 2c worth k....


dun worry not too muchwords to read but it may be effective for u.


i 2 drive a 2002 sgti with light mods...no doubt the car is fast, YET many regular n/a mods cant be done to it..

okiez lets not talk bout the blardy siemens mods la..but lets tok bout the core prob with it.

1. every 5000km i do my service with my regular mechy.. he's good no nonsense basic mech. and everytime i m there, i will do a tb cleaning session. cos this is usually the cost of very poor idling at low rpm.

2. in 2004 (april) i suffered what u call a juttering. This was due to some misfiring. according to my P E regular MUT Mech (i go there only for mut checks and idling tuning) he said spark plug cable was a prob. fair enuff, as the car was still under warranty, i managed to get it replaced (all 4 pieces for free).

3. NOT EVEN A BLARDY YEAR LATER 2005 (feb) yes, last friggin month i kena again this damn blardy problem. pissed me off so bad that i went back to p e.

according to them, parts warranty oni 6 months...so i have to fork out my own money to replace 2 spoilt cables (cable 1 & 3)..usually the cepat rosak ones are cable 2&3..
b4 forkin out the money, i told them i will change it to ngk performance cables...but when i went out sourcin for it, i was told none were made for the siemens model and they were not compatible wit the mmc ones. so that's how i made my way back to p e and spend about rm 150 for the 2 blardy cables.

anyway if u want a good reliable P E mechy - go to MOSPEED IN SUNWAY (SS13)
look for SAM. Very nice fella. mention the other gti story, he knows who i m and believe me, he will bend backwards to help u.

my suggestion to u is, lets go change our siemens ecu to a mmc version la.
RM2k or no....it could be worth it in the long run.

i really cant stand this shit no more. i m utterly disgusted with proton and their nonsenses. yunno what, i seriously made a big mistake in 2002 buying proton. should have gone for a good ole reliable toyota or a super fast honda.

sorry bout the rambling, just my 2cents worth.

- t 0 m B S t 0 n 3 -

 

[trex92]

Originally posted by babyien@Mar 7 2005, 20:34
Hi,

I'm not sure if anyone else had this experience. I've been recently told that a lot the Satria post 2000 models have juttering problems.

I own a 2002 Satria GTi (still with stock-specs) and it's giving me problems while accelerating at most times. My car jutters as though the clutch is not well-balanced. The problem started off with a small jerk when I accelerate on the 2nd gear, about a year ago.

Tried going back to the Proton Edar Service Centres and Dealers but none managed to even find the root cause of the problem!!! None of them gave me the warranty support that I'm entitled to... as usual, what can I say, it's Proton.

Left my car overnight before, problem persists after a week or so. There was once, the PESB so-called "Technical Advisor" said they changed the spark plugs cables to solve the problem, problem came back after a week.

I recently had a friend who owns a workshop to check my car, he said the spark plugs cables were NOT changed at all. They looked like they were taken out, given another layer of grease.

I have been advised to change to wiring and parts of the 99 models to completely end this agony. It'll cost me RM2000-2500.

Is this true?



baby ien
lost n helpless...

What kind of juttering problems you meant? Can give more specific details? Does it happen only during hard acceleration? Any sound emitted from the engine or exhaust pipe? It could be misfiring, when your engine misfires, it happens during acceleration and the car would jerk but this usually happens only when the accelerator is floored and not during gear change. A sound that most people describe as marbles rolling in the exhaust pipe can be heard or some sort of PINGing sound.

If this sound is evident in your case, it is a misfiring prob, so check your cables one by one. Could be that the cables are old and are leaking electrical charge. I sent my Putra once to USPD to tackle this prob and bloody hell, they could not even diagnose it. I only found out about my spark plugs cables problem when I opened up the engine cover and heard a pap-pap sound coming from the cables. Then if cables are okay, take out the spark plugs and check them for any sign of wear and tear. They could be too old. Also check the gap between the firing points of the spark plugs to see if they are too big. Too big gaps would cause misfirings too... I think the original spec is something like 0.8mm

Now, if there is no sound like i describe, your prob is something deeper. Check this first, have a look at your throttle position sensor (TPS). This sensor is attached to your throttle body (TB). Refer to my picture attached, look for the arrow pointed up (i took this picture from another topic so disregard the other arrows and circle). You would see a black piece of plastic around 5cm in diameter facing you with wires sticking out. This black piece is your TPS. It can actually be adjusted, but do not, i repeat, do not fiddle around with it yet. It is connected to the TB by way of 2 screws at the sides. Look at the 2 screws, and look for marks of white paint. Proton marked the screws with white paint or some sort of paint when the car came out new and original from the factory to indicate that the TPS is set to original factory setting. Look at the paint and see if was tampered with. If the paint on the screws has been tampered with, means someone has changed the TPS setting and it is bad news. Not many workshops can properly adjust the TPS. You have to go for a workshop with MUT testers.

 

[PocketRocket]

dude...hehe...so technical here i beh tahan...
neway..our thread is in the proton section...under satria owners...
all we do there is talk cock...just intro urself there..then we yum cha in hartamas and we convoy evry wednesday fortnight.

 

[PocketRocket]

its ok if u cant make all the yum cha sessions...we do it almost evrynite...
just try once or twice...u can see we're darn frenly guys...

 

[anttyk]

Originally posted by tombstone@Mar 8 2005, 02:54
3. NOT EVEN A BLARDY YEAR LATER 2005 (feb) yes, last friggin month i kena again this damn blardy problem. pissed me off so bad that i went back to p e.

according to them, parts warranty oni 6 months...so i have to fork out my own money to replace 2 spoilt cables (cable 1 & 3)..usually the cepat rosak ones are cable 2&3..
b4 forkin out the money, i told them i will change it to ngk performance cables...but when i went out sourcin for it, i was told none were made for the siemens model and they were not compatible wit the mmc ones. so that's how i made my way back to p e and spend about rm 150 for the 2 blardy cables.

Brother,

You may have been conned already. Warranty for the Proton SGTi is not for 6 months but for 50,000km. Unless your car has exceeded this mileage, you are covered by the warranty.

Most SGTi owners (from the SGTi Club) send their cars to PE Mutiara Damansara for servicing and fixing.

 

[tombstone]

Originally posted by anttyk+Mar 8 2005, 18:48 --></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (anttyk @ Mar 8 2005, 18:48 )</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-tombstone@Mar 8 2005, 02:54
3. NOT EVEN A BLARDY YEAR LATER 2005 (feb) yes, last friggin month i kena again this damn blardy problem. pissed me off so bad that i went back to p e.

according to them, parts warranty oni 6 months...so i have to fork out my own money to replace 2 spoilt cables (cable 1 & 3)..usually the cepat rosak ones are cable 2&3..
b4 forkin out the money, i told them i will change it to ngk performance cables...but when i went out sourcin for it, i was told none were made for the siemens model and they were not compatible wit the mmc ones. so that's how i made my way back to p e and spend about rm 150 for the 2 blardy cables.

Brother,

You may have been conned already. Warranty for the Proton SGTi is not for 6 months but for 50,000km. Unless your car has exceeded this mileage, you are covered by the warranty.

Most SGTi owners (from the SGTi Club) send their cars to PE Mutiara Damansara for servicing and fixing. [/b][/quote]
no dude...my mileage for my darn car oso not passed 55500 k la....

so i must have kena conned...that arsehole service consultant la say 6 months...

sam (the mechy) what he know other than his job...

man...i m fuming....

thanks antty for the info...

does it state anywhere that i can refer with regards to the part warranty lasting up to 50k mileage??

thanks bro,

regards

- t 0 m B S t 0 n 3 -

 

[Jay5]

i reckon its either 50k km or 6 months warranty whichever comes first?
then again who would go 50k km in 6 months...?!~

 

[trex92]

Originally posted by anttyk+Mar 8 2005, 18:48 --></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (anttyk @ Mar 8 2005, 18:48 )</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-tombstone@Mar 8 2005, 02:54
3. NOT EVEN A BLARDY YEAR LATER 2005 (feb) yes, last friggin month i kena again this damn blardy problem. pissed me off so bad that i went back to p e.

according to them, parts warranty oni 6 months...so i have to fork out my own money to replace 2 spoilt cables (cable 1 & 3)..usually the cepat rosak ones are cable 2&3..
b4 forkin out the money, i told them i will change it to ngk performance cables...but when i went out sourcin for it, i was told none were made for the siemens model and they were not compatible wit the mmc ones. so that's how i made my way back to p e and spend about rm 150 for the 2 blardy cables.

Brother,

You may have been conned already. Warranty for the Proton SGTi is not for 6 months but for 50,000km. Unless your car has exceeded this mileage, you are covered by the warranty.

Most SGTi owners (from the SGTi Club) send their cars to PE Mutiara Damansara for servicing and fixing. [/b][/quote]
Bought i thought warranties are something like 50,000km or 1 year (let's assume) which ever comes first? So doesn't matter if have not reached 50,000km but if exceeded 1 year then no more warranty...

 

[babyien]

I tried PE PJ Section 13 (a few times), Jalan 227, dealers in Segambut, Sri Petaling, Tmn Mayang. Only found out about the one in Mutiara Damansara... too late, I've given up on my warranty because I stopped sending my car to any PE for servicing.

I did get a workshop outside to check and clean the throttle body. And these ppl outside can't tune the bloody car because it's locked. :(

If I recalled correctly, my warranty booklet says warranty for 50,000 km or 3 years, whichever comes first. Anyway, mine's voided now...

 

[babyien]

Originally posted by trex92@Mar 8 2005, 12:08
What kind of juttering problems you meant? Can give more specific details? Does it happen only during hard acceleration? Any sound emitted from the engine or exhaust pipe? It could be misfiring, when your engine misfires, it happens during acceleration and the car would jerk but this usually happens only when the accelerator is floored and not during gear change. A sound that most people describe as marbles rolling in the exhaust pipe can be heard or some sort of PINGing sound.

If this sound is evident in your case, it is a misfiring prob, so check your cables one by one. Could be that the cables are old and are leaking electrical charge. I sent my Putra once to USPD to tackle this prob and bloody hell, they could not even diagnose it. I only found out about my spark plugs cables problem when I opened up the engine cover and heard a pap-pap sound coming from the cables. Then if cables are okay, take out the spark plugs and check them for any sign of wear and tear. They could be too old. Also check the gap between the firing points of the spark plugs to see if they are too big. Too big gaps would cause misfirings too... I think the original spec is something like 0.8mm

Now, if there is no sound like i describe, your prob is something deeper. Check this first, have a look at your throttle position sensor (TPS). This sensor is attached to your throttle body (TB). Refer to my picture attached, look for the arrow pointed up (i took this picture from another topic so disregard the other arrows and circle). You would see a black piece of plastic around 5cm in diameter facing you with wires sticking out. This black piece is your TPS. It can actually be adjusted, but do not, i repeat, do not fiddle around with it yet. It is connected to the TB by way of 2 screws at the sides. Look at the 2 screws, and look for marks of white paint. Proton marked the screws with white paint or some sort of paint when the car came out new and original from the factory to indicate that the TPS is set to original factory setting. Look at the paint and see if was tampered with. If the paint on the screws has been tampered with, means someone has changed the TPS setting and it is bad news. Not many workshops can properly adjust the TPS. You have to go for a workshop with MUT testers.

My car just jerks when I press on the accelerator and it gets worst if I floor it.
When the car is idle whether is it warmed up, it just "shivers" and feels like the engine is gonna stop.

There are sounds at times when I floor it. I've heard a pop sound before, not too sure if the sound came from the front or the bottom of my car. Other times, I get a PSSHHHH sound, sounded like from turbo charge. Haven't heard any marbles rolling in the exhaust pipe or pinging sound though.

Couldn't see any picture attached... Which workshop with MUT testers would you recommend?

 

[babyien]

Thank u all for your input!!

I'll definitely continue my quest to fix this bloody problem.

ttyl...

 

[tewwyble]

does your check engine light comes on?

sensors/ignition/fueling problems will register into your ECU and notify you on your check engine light warning. don't waste money on trial and error.

rev till 1800RPM on idle. u will feel any misfiring when that happens. if everything is ok, your plugs, cables and ignition are in good condition.

i would change the fuel filter 1st.

 

[anttyk]

Bro,

Maybe you could give this forum a try.

Satria GTi Club Official Webpage

People there are friendly and helpful. :)

 

[trex92]

Originally posted by babyien@Mar 10 2005, 04:13

My car just jerks when I press on the accelerator and it gets worst if I floor it.
When the car is idle whether is it warmed up, it just "shivers" and feels like the engine is gonna stop.

There are sounds at times when I floor it. I've heard a pop sound before, not too sure if the sound came from the front or the bottom of my car. Other times, I get a PSSHHHH sound, sounded like from turbo charge. Haven't heard any marbles rolling in the exhaust pipe or pinging sound though.

Couldn't see any picture attached... Which workshop with MUT testers would you recommend? [/quote]
Oppsss... forgot to attach the pic... here it is again...

Since ur car when idle also shakes... try checking the ignition timing of ur car...

 

[EFN]

errr sorry to barge in to this.

The problem that you described I am certain that your SGTi have over fuel enrichment problem. I have a business selling Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator and during the course of installing A-FPRs into customers cars including SGTi, I have noticed that ALL of Proton cars are set at very high Fuel Pressure level - over 38PSI at idle, sot that would mean that at full-throttle the fuel pressure would be in the region of 47 to 48PSI. I believe the reason Proton set the fuel pressure high is because they want to ensure that all of their engines will not experience any Knocking (pre-ignition) no matter how hot the condition is - but by doing so it will sacrifice throttle response and induce msifiring albeit not as noticable.

All of my customers driving 4G93P are now driving with fuel pressure set at 36PSI max, some even run 32PSI. With those pressure range there are no more jerks and throttle response are snap happy.

Yes I know, this might sounded like some cheap advertisement for my A-FPR, but that does not deny the fact that I have seen for myself and info that I can share. hope this helps.