Typical timing for street cars at Sepang SIC

aalto

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EG6 standard 1.6 AUTO with occupant, got around 3:05......hehe.....damn slow!
 

tecque

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Mine 1.6+manual got around 3.05s also(aalto u consider fast)...im still noob... hopefully can break below3.00s nex track day
 

aalto

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Mine 1.6+manual got around 3.05s also(aalto u consider fast)...im still noob... hopefully can break below3.00s nex track day
With a little bit of practice, no problem for your eg 1.6 manual(its an eg right?) to get below around 2:55-3:00 mins. Make sure using good tires though, what tires were u using?....i was using advan neova
 

tecque

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Im EK-hatc using Ad07...strut bars, lower arm tie bars, front ek9 arb, rear ek4 arb.. The last track day i went was hari raya haji(raining day) i got 3.20s...:slug:
i will upgrade to Tein, adj front camber and more bars by nex track day... Below 3.00s will happy...
 

eater_eg6

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Im EK-hatc using Ad07...strut bars, lower arm tie bars, front ek9 arb, rear ek4 arb.. The last track day i went was hari raya haji(raining day) i got 3.20s...:slug:
i will upgrade to Tein, adj front camber and more bars by nex track day... Below 3.00s will happy...
its possible to hit below 3.00s ... good luck.. :)
 

aalto

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Im EK-hatc using Ad07...strut bars, lower arm tie bars, front ek9 arb, rear ek4 arb.. The last track day i went was hari raya haji(raining day) i got 3.20s...:slug:
i will upgrade to Tein, adj front camber and more bars by nex track day... Below 3.00s will happy...

If you want to get the best out of your suspension, i suggest you change all your bushings to polyuthrane one.....damn syiok!...
 

tecque

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Yaya... i was thinking it too.... u done it? can suggest any place tat provide good workmanship and reasonable price???

By the way, could anyone share wat the best tyre pressure for front and rear in track? (hot day and raining day)
 

eater_eg6

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Hardrace hard rubber bushing is the good choice ... :) got hard rubber n pillowball .. :) im using it , after install it u can really feel the diffrence .. :) superb handling.. :) u can try to call 012-2384627 (JOE) .
 

jamesweh

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Hi, just my 2 cents worth, just get your lines correct in Sepang and you can easily beat the 3 minute barrier. You don't need to spend a lot of money in terms of suspension, bushes or even tyres.
In the last 2 years, I have improve but I am still learning. Kind of reach a level where I need professional help to improve on my time of 2.50.
For example, on Turn 5 & 6, I am struggling on 4th gear, at 130kmh.
But I just had a chit chat with a regular MME driver and he told me with a Satria 1.8 GTI (Race Car) on slicks, he can hit at a peak 150KMH at Turn 5 & 6.
I have loads of understeer going in to Turn 5 & 6 and coming out.
I definitely got the wrong line.
 

faisal

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Biggest gains an expert driver over a novice has is mostly, under braking & cornering speed. Most Novice will lack the experince to brake late enough, hence holding the speeds for longer. Then there's cornering speed, which affects the speed of the following corner.

Sub 3'00 mins times in a 1600cc street car is easy to gain if braking points, cornering speeed & correct racing lines are adhered to.

So, mod the driver first, before mod the car.:proud:
 

cqloh

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wow... this thread is really picking up isn;t it?

i believe its quite possible for a street car (i'm assuming we're talking vtec here, since almost everyone here is in a honda) to do the same sort of time as an MME race car, keep in mind that you will need to compromise a fair bit (rule of thumb, a street car will never be a race car..a race car will never be a street car). the simple fact is that MME cars are all built to comply with a mix of group N and super production class cars.. so they have to run a fair bit of stock parts such as the throttle body and the stock airbox. they are also limited to tyre size and brand. most MME 1.6 class cars make 170hp at the wheels to ensure it can last the 12 hours..

a 1.8 litre makes 200 at the wheels with cams and a computer... all you need to make up for is the weight and the tyres.. i'm sure some of you already have stripped out interiors... if you can get the weight of the car to about 1060kg with driver and a half tank of gas you have pretty good chances in doing that lap time(again other factors are involved.. correct gear ratios, final drive, correct rim offset, good DOT approved tyres).

tecque: tyre pressures are dependant on the actual day itself.. but the aim of the excercise is to get the pressures to run in the 2-2.2bar range after you've done a hard lap, again this is also dependant on your tyres. on a day when the track temp is about 45 degrees (very common in sepang) i'd set them at 1.4 front and 1.6 rear on silverstone T5 slicks and with nitrogen in them.

jamesweh: most cars have that understeering problem with turn 5 and 6. but i think its more of a set up problem than a racing line one. 150km in a gti in turn 5 and 6?? thats darn pretty fast.. we're only doing 130+ in our EK...
 

tecque

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Hardrace hard rubber bushing is the good choice ... :) got hard rubber n pillowball .. :) im using it , after install it u can really feel the diffrence .. :) superb handling.. :) u can try to call 012-2384627 (JOE) .
Thanks bro....
wow... this thread is really picking up isn;t it?

i believe its quite possible for a street car (i'm assuming we're talking vtec here, since almost everyone here is in a honda) to do the same sort of time as an MME race car, keep in mind that you will need to compromise a fair bit (rule of thumb, a street car will never be a race car..a race car will never be a street car). the simple fact is that MME cars are all built to comply with a mix of group N and super production class cars.. so they have to run a fair bit of stock parts such as the throttle body and the stock airbox. they are also limited to tyre size and brand. most MME 1.6 class cars make 170hp at the wheels to ensure it can last the 12 hours..

a 1.8 litre makes 200 at the wheels with cams and a computer... all you need to make up for is the weight and the tyres.. i'm sure some of you already have stripped out interiors... if you can get the weight of the car to about 1060kg with driver and a half tank of gas you have pretty good chances in doing that lap time(again other factors are involved.. correct gear ratios, final drive, correct rim offset, good DOT approved tyres).

tecque: tyre pressures are dependant on the actual day itself.. but the aim of the excercise is to get the pressures to run in the 2-2.2bar range after you've done a hard lap, again this is also dependant on your tyres. on a day when the track temp is about 45 degrees (very common in sepang) i'd set them at 1.4 front and 1.6 rear on silverstone T5 slicks and with nitrogen in them.

jamesweh: most cars have that understeering problem with turn 5 and 6. but i think its more of a set up problem than a racing line one. 150km in a gti in turn 5 and 6?? thats darn pretty fast.. we're only doing 130+ in our EK...
Thanks for sharing.. bro...
Previously im runnin 3th gear(in high rpm,vtec engage) for turn 5,6.. cos i got more traction wit it...I tried 4th gear, but my car feel like going to understeer..
 

jamesweh

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Thanks, an MME racer cannot be compared to a street car, I was with Sabert sparing with a Subaru STI RA on Turn 5 & 6. We were on a MME Corrola AE101 with a stock engine and very old second hand slicks and we have no problem closing up on my friends hard driving RA.
100% a novice like me is scared of braking on the front and back straights. But again after a few lessons from Sabert, I am braking now at about 150 meters mark which can still easily be brought forward to 100 meter. I am using a 6 pot endless brake system.
But one time I was braking at 100 meter mark, I hit the brakes and the pedal went down to the floor, I had run out of brake pads, I should have checked but I just changed my pads 2 months ago so I never thought that I would run out pads after just 2 months.
Now you can imagine how "Kan Chiong" it is at the 100 meter mark and your brake pedal goes to the floor!
 

cqloh

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LOL... thats a good one....
that gti is fast! Mr schumacher and mr hamilton must have learnt from Mr Chris GTI

Bump:
Thanks, an MME racer cannot be compared to a street car, I was with Sabert sparing with a Subaru STI RA on Turn 5 & 6. We were on a MME Corrola AE101 with a stock engine and very old second hand slicks and we have no problem closing up on my friends hard driving RA.
100% a novice like me is scared of braking on the front and back straights. But again after a few lessons from Sabert, I am braking now at about 150 meters mark which can still easily be brought forward to 100 meter. I am using a 6 pot endless brake system.
But one time I was braking at 100 meter mark, I hit the brakes and the pedal went down to the floor, I had run out of brake pads, I should have checked but I just changed my pads 2 months ago so I never thought that I would run out pads after just 2 months.
Now you can imagine how "Kan Chiong" it is at the 100 meter mark and your brake pedal goes to the floor!
actually... i'm an avid disbeliever in late braking...
alot of people say that late braking improves lap times... which is true to a very certain extent..
most people would have heard about late braking from F1 or other formula style races, this is because the braking effort to vehicle weight ratio is far greater than that of a saloon car..

WARNING: brain power required!!

think for a moment... the level of grip that your car has at any given time is determined by the contact patch of your tyres... that is.. the entire weight of your car resting on 4 patches the size of your palm...

for a simplified arguments sake.. we'll assume that we're on the main straight at sepang entering turn 1...because the car is on the straight, there are no lateral forces acting on the tyre.. which means that your tyre has 100% of its lateral grip available to you.. if you brake very early.. you might use 20% of the tyres grip to decelerate to corner entry speed... which means that you have 80% of grip available to corner..
now in contrast.. if you go in too hot.. and brake very very late... you might use 80% of that grip to decelerate.. which means you have 20% of 'cornering power' available.. thats fine if your car weighs 600kg and you have 300kg in downforce acting on your car... you can still make the corner...
but in most likely cases.. you would turn the steering and your car goes towards the kitty litter.. you curse and hope that you don;t get stuck...

i find that its very difficult for a driver to NOT brake late.... but instead trail brake into that corner.. the idea is to balance the amount of cornering force that you have available and the amount of time you take to make it down the straight...

our world is governed by physics.. (remember in high school)
F = ma

force = the force generated and acting on your tyres
mass = mass of your car
acceleration (in this case deceleration) = you're always accelerating in a corner because of the change in direction since acceleration is a vector ie it has a direction and a force..

so if you have tyres that can take 1.2 G in deceleration (1.2 x 1000 = 1200).. and your car is 1000kg.. and you decelerate at 1.3m/s squared... you;d overload the tyres and lock the brakes..
(again.. this is a simplified version with no weight transfer, downforce, tire wall and spring deformation taken into consideration)

i reckon i;ve given enough tips for today.. class is adjourned....

LOL
 
Last edited:

snx

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cqloh, crazy la you with the technical stuff.

Anyway I think the late braking most meant is to counter the early braking because of fear. At first, it's hard to brake early or just on time for me. For my first time, I braked very late all the way until mid-corners. It was scary and slow!

Best is to brake early just on time, then corner with throttle, after mid-corner go full throttle. Doing it on Gran Turismo is so much easier. Haha. In real life I found myself braking too early already because of the first few late-braking experiences.
 

cqloh

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cqloh, crazy la you with the technical stuff.

Anyway I think the late braking most meant is to counter the early braking because of fear. At first, it's hard to brake early or just on time for me. For my first time, I braked very late all the way until mid-corners. It was scary and slow!

Best is to brake early just on time, then corner with throttle, after mid-corner go full throttle. Doing it on Gran Turismo is so much easier. Haha. In real life I found myself braking too early already because of the first few late-braking experiences.
hahah yeah people tend to fall asleep when they hear what i have to say...
but the business of having a car go round the track as quick as possible is as much of an engineering problem as building a bridge.. so thats how you should treat it..
once you know what the limits are.. you'll know what can be done and what can't.
thats why we always use datalogging equipment.. to see what the car and the driver is doing and how we can improve both.... the video camera is your friend =)
 

snx

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I am actually very interested in the technical details. Hehe. Anyway how much is the datalogging equipment worth, got entry level ones? I am considering just using plain video camera but the mounting is really tough to do in my car.

I can't wait for the next track day really. One day isn't enough.
 

cqloh

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datalogging equipment ranges from 4k for an AIM all the way up to 20k for the motec ADL that we use or 50k for the PI systems that F3, WRC, GT and LM cars use. this is just for the logger and analysis software alone and excludes the wires and sensors required to monitor paremeters...
but thats way over the scope of a street car.

i'd recommend the AIM.. its cheap and its adequate for the weekend just for fun racer.
after that you'd have to figure out what sensors you need.

Bump:
FAst forwarded? tats F1 timing.....
thats why i said schumacher and hamilton learned from that guy..
of course la fast forward!
 

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