My dream old junkyard lancer evo engine rebuilt

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peterj

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hopefully the thread in zth still contain the old sweet memories will not be deleted:biggrin:
 

peterj

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for got to say also, need to thanks a lot to zerotohundred.com, there are reasons i stay up lates and browse the same site,one of it is sometimes i will get surprise, like this one , the ori hks cam pulley for e1-3

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find till die months ago, no 2nd hand to find since ppl sells together with cams, then got one set asked from singapore quote me 1.4k brand new with postage... then i keep my mind to be low budget then think of get aerospeed or works pulley from fren and turn degree wheels to tune the cams again(complicated and time consuming), but finally ZTH give me a surprise while i surf for the markerplace and the pulley shows up, and it is ori:biggrin: with this it ease a lot of the cams adjustment since my mech got all the specs written down on how to tune the cams with ori hks pulley.... can simply dial in without degree wheels:idea:
 

peterj

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a proper or up to standard built is not that easy, after so long then now the mech put the forgies in, but shits are always happen:bawling:
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same job here, torque following spec, and everything seems shiny and nice until we turn the crank, it is damn tight, we expect it will be gud since while we fit the crank the gap looks gud so we did not test the conrod cap but now so tight to turn, nvm, open conrod cap and check with plastic gauge, , it shows 1st and 4th is still inside the range (0.015"- 0.03") even it shows some imbalance , but the 2nd and 3rd show over imbalance or too wide the gap, then i learn something new, switch the bearing from different conrod and see

but at first the mech go direct switch cap,

switched cap
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torque to spec
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good and balance clearance
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then the plastic gauge show balance and proper gap for the 2nd and 3rd, and the crank turn smoothly, however the method is wrong, we cant just switch the cap from the diff conrod, so we switch back the cap again but retain the switched bearing, the 3rd shows good clearance but still the 2nd are too wide and imbalance gap, since the 1st conrod also got some imbalance,we switch it with the 2nd, then the 1st shows good and more balance clearance, but still the 2nd conrod still fuck up, but then, it is already 5.30pm, then, i need wait tomorow the mech to switch the 2nd and the 4th bearing and see how, if cant then there will be unfinished switching, really need switch the upper bearing of each of the conrod which consume lots of time, now i know a proper built engine procedure is that hard:hmmmm: but at least i learn new thing on the switching of bearing, and i wonder why the acl bearing dont have colour code matching to ease the job btw:hmmmm:
 

peterj

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it had been week plus since last update, quite lots of work done by me and my mech in this duration... let the pics and stories begin:biggrin:

the mech actually quite sien with the bearing fitting already, he not only change the conrod bearing and test with plastic gauge to get the best clearance, but took out independent rods and piston and put to different bore and test, but result still disappointing, the 2nd conrod bearing still shows unbalances clearance and over wide clearance.. so he stop after switch the rods and piston with another bore.. then, i saw he no work, then i tangan gatal go take all the tools he used and do what he do,put plastic gauge and torque to spec with torque wrench.. magically, this is the result.:biggrin:

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seems like my engine like me to touch it:biggrin:

ok, the 1 week headache problem solved, now the mech start to reassemble things back... first the oil sump parts

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then putting in the ARP "piling"

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then the head is in, with arp , it actually required special size and special tools,we all thought it is a 13mm nuts so i gound a short socket to use, howver, during the torque process (torque according to oem manual,70nm > 0 > 20nm > 90 degree x 2) , the socket slide off twice and hurt the nut little, and then we figure out the socket is too short and keep obstructed by other stuff in the head so cant have a tight fit.. and also my fren(a mech and experience in motorsport) tole me it is "angmo size" 1/2 not 13mm.. so i rush to buy a long socket sized 1/2.. then they finally torque it down properly:nurse:

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sun up sun down, another day, today i feel free to brush and spray black my oil sump, but sorry no actual pic of it.. so i just put my oil sump pic, and i do discover mitsubishi really do effort on their engine, it come originally a buffered oil sump... and it remind me once upon a time how hard i search for buffer plates for my honda engines:thefinger:

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then i took all the cams and trinity clutch to be rdy to install(no budget so use cheap clutch:biggrin:),meanwhile, a new water pump is installed

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then the mech install the cams and cam pulleys, same, bearing caps torque to specs then turn using hand to test for smooth turning (lifter and rocker arm not installed)

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when mech thought all run smoothly, then something weird happen, when wanna install timing belt, discovered the 1st piston stuck with valve ,why?? all according to the campulley and crank mark.... we all no answer, i thought i got fake pulley or the crank gear timing mark gone wrong, then again i ask for help from my fren that pro in motorsport since his workshop beside only:biggrin: once he came here and see, one funny and simple mistake occur, intake and exhaust cam installed terbalik:biggrin::biggrin: but we had install according to the sticker stick on the package, which mean the supplier opened the package and put back wrongly:thefinger: nvm, we redo the all progress again, then everything done...

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then the engine's part mostly done with the timing belt installed...

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then it is the transmission, but it is quite simple, new trinity clutch kit, new clutch bearing,stick the gearbox in, done... some thing hard to do is that we forgot we need install the middle cross member first before install back the mid differential, we think of other way round, nvm, same thing, re do it again:smokin:....now the engine with all things are in the engine bay again,wait all other parts installed back,maybe i can finally hear the engine sound i did not heard for months next week:rolleyes::driver:(actually more things already in the engine bay but i forgot to take the pic) .. however, i still need find new engine side engine mount cause i found all other three mounts but not that one here (pity kampung area people):banghead:

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it almost done,stay tuned:biggrin:
 
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peterj

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hehehe.. owner kinda rush actually lol:stupid: one month plus in the workshop dy:bawling:
 

peterj

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i did not request btw lol.... and he is quite short of time, that is why too it so long to rebuilt my engine, he is not only do mine one car, sometimes if there are 3-4 cars come in his workshop, mine kena hit the pause button for the moment
 

vr2turbo

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i did not request btw lol.... and he is quite short of time, that is why too it so long to rebuilt my engine, he is not only do mine one car, sometimes if there are 3-4 cars come in his workshop, mine kena hit the pause button for the moment
No wonder you sometimes go and DIY yourself......hhahahhahahha:rofl:
 

peterj

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But we gt other problem now....we cant find new engine mounting,the engine side.....coz 3 other same as wira but not the engine side...anybody help??:bawling:
 

peterj

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No..need pos from semenanjung so costly.... i might as well as find myself
 

peterj

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That why i say me at ulu area
 

gunnerzz

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i am soo focussed looking at pic after pic of the job.
just hope i have the ability to do so.
hope u can post video on the 1st engine start up.

if i were there i will help u clean the engine and gb exterior foc.
thats one thing i luv to do if i have the skill to get my engine out of the cage its sitting in.

when u said the cam was installed wrongly it reminds me when i install the plug lead on a distributor cal wrongly.
the spark was sent to the wrong cylinder at the wrong time.was shock till i jump backward when the carb spill out the backfire.
the air cleaner was removed so can clearly see flame and feel the shockwave when we try starting the engine.
 

peterj

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after months waited... the car finally can start today, with the wiring to the coil pulled, crank to oil the engine fully then start.. one kick btw... using Amsoil break in oil to fasten the run in process.. however, problem still shitting around, when i wanna try move it outside to let it run longer time(if keep inside garage the whole garage mech will dead from C.monoxide since ventilation not so good),"pop"... lower clutch pump just die like that, damn.... now need wait tomorow to get the pump since it is already 5pm... somehow the car maybe know it gt new upper clutch pump so it pop the lower pump also:banghead: however, it already start and seems fine so my heart feel fine also:driver::love:,just that the lifter quite loud like machine gun dunno why, maybe long time no use need time to fully oiled since the lifter i keep in my store for 2 years

YouTube
 

vr2turbo

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Last time when I change the Upper clutch pump for my VR, two days later the lower one also gave way. Could be due to stronger pressure from the upper to lower....:banghead:
 

peterj

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Last time when I change the Upper clutch pump for my VR, two days later the lower one also gave way. Could be due to stronger pressure from the upper to lower....:banghead:
and then i changed new lower pump u know what happen? still cant press clutch, turun gearbox (4wd damn hard to open btw) .. then saw the bearing fork makan dy.. damn need purposely find it tomorow:banghead::banghead:
 

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