MIVEC Tappet Problems - Advice Needed

vrozario

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Jun 11, 2010
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Hi Guys,

Got a 1.6 MIVEC for my Wira some time ago. Engine has been giving problems ever since. Hope you guys could contribute your advice on how to solve this problem.

Noisy Tappets. One mech said it can't be adjusted and I have to change them. Another said they COULD be adjusted and tightened. A third mech said they're hydraulic, so it could be that i'm using a wrong type of engine oil. Currently using a crappy 5W-30 grade oil. What do you guys think?
 

peterj

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use motul 6100 synergy 15-50w, reduce sound a lot, i gt exp.... 10-40w is still not enough
 

vrozario

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Right... Like I said, currently using a crappy semi synthetic 5w-30 oil. I do intend to go for a 20w-50, as I heard this grade is a what Mitsubishi recommends for this engine. Not sure how far this is true, but since you guys are recommending thicker 10w and 15w, I suppose 20w should be better?
 

EvolutionZ

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if i not mistaken hydraulic tappet is self adjust so mech cant tighten or so.
use thicker oil will reduce the sound...you will felt bit heavier lor.
 

xtremeleo

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evolutionz, it supposed to but in time, the tolerence got bigger and the oil passage will sumhow get blocked up wit sludge and grime, so less oil pressure is able to be pumpep up there, more noise. ive been trying everything dat i can possibly do, including sum good ideas from frens here, and ive overcome my ticking problem, in a 4G91. adding shims to the oil pressure bypass valve solved my problem and the engine operated witout any noise, but it came back after sumtime. so, i tried to a 20w-50, but even dat doesnt solve the problem entirely since the noise come and go as it pleases. then, i tried another brand 15w-50, and now the noise disappears, and after 2 days of trial run, it hasnt return yet. it depended on oil quality much, these hydraulic lifters. get a good based oil, and u'll be set to go silent

vrozario, mivec has screws to adjust the clearance, so its comparatively easier to reduce the lifter noise compared to hydraulic lifters. have u adjusted those?
 

Mrnazmi

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Service the tepet @ hydraulic lifter, use Shell Semi Syn Oil (Blue Color), then it should be ok, i have tried it and the sound like machine jahit gone already..:proud:
 

C99D-MMC5537

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Bro, mivec got both. lash adjuster, and normal screw to adjust the tappet clearance. Normal mechanib who never repair mivec, can't adjust it since it need special tool. The screw can't be access by normal screw driver.
 

vrozario

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xtremeleo : Nope, I haven't adjusted those yet. To be frank, I'm quite new to this engine, so all this is a learning experience for me. And like C99D mentioned, a special tool is needed to adjust these lifters. I think this is why some mechs told me that it can't be adjusted...easy way out for them would be to change all the lifters.

Thanks a lot for the advice guys, I really appreciate it. Since I'm in Melaka, sourcing for a workshop that knows this engine will is gonna be tough. So for short-term solutions, I'll try using a 15w-50 oil first, until I have the time to go up to KL and get it done properly.

Just to let you guys know that I'm gonna be posting another MIVEC question pretty soon, which is the intake/exhaust cam adjustments. So...shall I stay tuned? Haha!
 

peterj

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p/s: buy a 15w-50 semi synthetic not mineral base oil, good quality oil for your engine is better........ by the way, can i ask u something, u gt anymore budget to mod??
 

vrozario

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peterj : Budget to mod? Haha, I actually don't plan these things. If I have some extra cash in hand, then yea, I'll consider modding. What's on ur mind?
 

peterj

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1st and easy way, get a gsr 1.8 block to make a mivec 1.8 and get a good racing clutch, much different compared to 1.6, more power, if u plan to get a bit power, stop here then, but what i did before is putting in 12k for BOT for high boost, can run till 1.5 bar but i put till 1 bar for reliability, at this stage, it is already a monster, dynoed with 300++ hp
 

xtremeleo

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i lol'ed at ur post peter, dats jumping into d future dah tu!!!!!

charged mivec / vtec are my fave btw, lllllllllooooooooooooooooollllllllllllllllllllllll
 

vrozario

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peterj : I was actually using a 4g93 n/a block previously. That cracked, and I decided to downgrade to a 1.6 so I could get it endorsed (1.3 chassis). Regarding the clutch...no problem with that as I'm using an Exedy Multiplate clutch kit and JUN lightened flywheel. Turbo...Very nice thought bro, but not in the near future. I use this car as a daily driver, and with my schedule...it's gonna be a real bi+ch if the car ended up in a workshop.

Besides, I'm in Melaka...The road conditions here are equivalent to a jungle trail.
 

peterj

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wow :hmmmm2: how come na form also crack?? u rebored it or wat?? mine with turbo also no problem except the fc, 7km/L :banghead: ... but of course wif internal mod and proper tuning.... if u are ppl at kuching then it is nice, coz i endorse jpj with 1.8 block and also turbo :burnout: green card still wrote 1.6l le.... :biggrin: but sure with some coffee 1st .... oh by the way, i m using gsr turbo block :biggrin:

---------- Post added at 03:21 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:18 PM ----------

and also, u will feel different between normal clutch and racing clutch.... try it then will know... dun try the alang2 semi racing , coz i heard from this forum, that 1 gt many problems.......

---------- Post added at 08:00 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:21 PM ----------

and also bro, if din upgrade ur brake system, u better do 4 disc brake fast for ur safety, since u know our car = milo tin or even worst like roti tin ....... we don concern how fast we can go but how concern fast we can slow down, our mivec is already considered strong, i dun wan anybody with mivec or evo engine become front cut and rear cut like the satria.... i dun pity about people who hurt or sacrifice in that kind of accident because they speeding without thinking their beloved 1, i pity on the expensive engine :biggrin: jpj already concern about it and that is why they ban evo engine to be transplant into wira chasis now.... if more gsr and mivec horribly crushed, next time those engine might be banned too..... think of our future generation, ur son, ur little brother, i think u don wan them only play with oil leaking 4g92p turbo, 4g15p turbo or 4g13p turbo rite?? if n/a form, i think they will bored....

if buy a new car then there is a different story... :bawling: campro also different story because it have high top speed (sorry,far away from main point but that is what i think of)
 

vrozario

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Peterj: Thanks for the advice man. Yeah, I do have plans to convert to all four discs, as well as an Evo brake pump, and steel-braided hoses. A friend has those hoses and the pedal feel is quite reassuring.

I'm using a full racing clutch. And yeah, there really is a lot of difference. The bite is fantastic, pedal weight is acceptable, but just don't get stuck in stop-n-go traffic la. Sometimes I wanna cry man, haha!

Oh and by the way....any advice on proper camshaft adjustment for a stock 1.6 block? When I got the engine some time ago, it had a 1.8 block, and the cams were tuned for it (Arospeed pulleys). It was even tuned to such an extent where the idle sounded a little lumpy. However now with the 1.6 block, it seems to be running quite rich, and lacks power. Any advice on this?
 

peterj

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i m not pro on this since my cam is adjusted by my own mech :rolleyes: but for idling, my car face jerking and wanna die off problem if rpm too low,wonder u have experience this or not, just get a four point screw driver and adjust it and throttle body to let rpm higher then enough...racing clutch , i have used to it already since my muscle being build up when i always stuck in traffic jammed :banghead: but i still gt my mind to change to semi auto when i m stucked :banghead: .... u should ask ur mech to fix ur problem, but make sure u meet the correct person since i learned from hard way half year ago
 

vrozario

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Yeah, I've been through enough bozos tinkering around with the engine, thinking they know what they're doing, haha. No complaints bout the cams at the moment, but it'll be nice to know how the different degrees in the intake/exhaust cams affect the powerband.

Speaking of low rpm...my idling rpm isn't low...in fact it's about 1k rpm with the air-cond off, and about 700rpm when it's on. It's just that the cams were somehow adjusted so much, and now it sounds like I have a racing cam in it, lol. How nice if it really was :-p
 

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