Evo1 speedcut,max boost,plug question.

Feb 23, 2008
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1,501
hello guys..


i`m using evo 1 engine on my wira, but everyting is still stock xcept BOV an air filter.my question is:

1. how to remove the speed cut on the evo1 engine. the simplest way is most preferable : ).some say that it can be done just by cutting a specific wire (to/from ecu) that detect the speed etc.if that is true, how to determine the wire?

2. what is the best plug to use for this kinda engine. somthing like BPR6EIX ?? or what is other high perfomance plug suitable.will it give so much of noticable effect to the engine or just the long lasting duration of using it.what is the effect of just using a normal plug like BP6EX? will it effect the fuel consumption or is it dangerous for the engine?

3. i want to up the std boost for my car. just using the so called "tulang ikan" kinda thing.what is the max safe limit for the all stock engine liike mine? is 1.1 bar is too much for like this kinda engine with no fuel regulator, management and metal gasket? now the effective boost is about 0.65-0.70bar it will go up to 0.8bar if like `tahan` the gear but it just like over boost,cant feel oso.

4.where is the best place to isntall the vacuum hose for the wastegate? is it before or after the throttle body?coz now, if i opened up the tulang ikan to increase boost, it will oso effect my BOV, BOV sound is like short while only.like terbantut.all the vacuum hose is after the throttle body (BOV,wastegate,boost meter).

tq in advance.
 

evo5755

Known Member
Senior Member
Jan 11, 2004
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If have turbo engine, no budget better leave it stock...else you will be paying more.
 

jinkl

4,000 RPM
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May 22, 2004
4,624
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Kuala Lumpur
hello guys..


i`m using evo 1 engine on my wira, but everyting is still stock xcept BOV an air filter.my question is:

1. how to remove the speed cut on the evo1 engine. the simplest way is most preferable : ).some say that it can be done just by cutting a specific wire (to/from ecu) that detect the speed etc.if that is true, how to determine the wire?

2. what is the best plug to use for this kinda engine. somthing like BPR6EIX ?? or what is other high perfomance plug suitable.will it give so much of noticable effect to the engine or just the long lasting duration of using it.what is the effect of just using a normal plug like BP6EX? will it effect the fuel consumption or is it dangerous for the engine?

3. i want to up the std boost for my car. just using the so called "tulang ikan" kinda thing.what is the max safe limit for the all stock engine liike mine? is 1.1 bar is too much for like this kinda engine with no fuel regulator, management and metal gasket? now the effective boost is about 0.65-0.70bar it will go up to 0.8bar if like `tahan` the gear but it just like over boost,cant feel oso.

4.where is the best place to isntall the vacuum hose for the wastegate? is it before or after the throttle body?coz now, if i opened up the tulang ikan to increase boost, it will oso effect my BOV, BOV sound is like short while only.like terbantut.all the vacuum hose is after the throttle body (BOV,wastegate,boost meter).

tq in advance.
1. cheapest and safe way to do it is using pivot speed meter , if got more budget for gadget then apexi rsm la :D 2. i dunt know, but in US , nearly all of them believe in stock plugs BPR6ES or BP6ES , thts all , in malaysia its around 40 bucks, im using BPR7ES for few months already havent changed 3. i guess its better to stay safe , get a regulator then boost it up a lil. 0.6 bar to 0.8bar on standard turbo memang la bro like same same only, u try 1.6bar n see , woah , thts alot of diffrence in feeling :) 4. hose for wastegate should be before throthle body , before or after intercooler also can.
 

FatAssRubber

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Feb 12, 2007
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Yo Bro.. read on.. on plugs..

The Skinny on Spark Plugs

http://www.superchargersonline.com/content.asp?ID=11

With contributions by Ed Martinez - Performance Solutions Engineering

Whether you have a forced induction unit installed on your engine, or are just running a naturally aspirated setup, the performance of your vehicle is greatly enhanced (or inhibited) by your spark plugs. The type of spark plugs that you have, the condition that they are in and the current gap at which they are set all have a detrimental effect on the drivability of your application and the performance of your vehicle. Gone are the days of the magical, "one-type-fixes-all" spark plugs.

Let's Get Technical

The raging debate seems to be platinum vs. copper vs. conventional style spark plugs and which one is better. Keep in mind that there is not one universal answer or truth to this inquiry. Rather, your specific application should determine the type of spark plugs that you use. A few examples follow:

Most new vehicles come standard with platinum spark plugs. These are OEM parts and are designed to work great on a naturally aspirated setup. When supercharging your engine, you should look to purchase a set of OEM spark plugs that are 1-2 heat ranges cooler than stock. (As an example, a 1996 Mustang Cobra comes factory direct with platinum spark plugs. When supercharging, you should look for a set of Motorcraft or Autolite spark plugs that run 1 heat range cooler than stock). The OEM platinum spark plugs work great up to 10-13 psi in most boosted applications. Once your application runs above 10-13 psi of boost (more of a race-style application), you want to consider switching to a more conventional non-resistor set of spark plugs.

In a racing environment, there are generally no emissions standards and an excessive amount of fuel present. This environment can cause spark blowout if you are not using the appropriate setup. Platinum spark plugs are not recommended in this situation because, more often than not, spark blowout will occur due to the fact that the tip surfaces of a platinum spark plug is not large enough to make a good conductor in a rich, super high compression environment. Standard type spark plugs provide plenty of surface area for the spark to conduct under such conditions. Therefore a conventional non-resistor spark plug is recommended because it has a larger surface area that will allow the spark to occur.

Again, the type of spark plug that you will eventually choose depends on your engine and how it is designed. The guidelines that have been established, in the following paragraphs, should be treated as such. Whether you have a daily driver that is running 6-8psi of boost, or a race application running 10+psi of boost, you should consider seeking the counsel of a certified / qualified mechanic to determine what type of spark plugs are right for you. Remember, there are correct uses for all types of spark plugs.

The Selection Process

When you are looking to change out your set of spark plugs, there are a few guidelines that are recommended. First of all, "keep it in the family." If you're driving an American made car, use American spark plugs. Likewise for all makes of vehicles. Consider the following recommendations for purchasing your spark plugs (based on the make of your vehicle):

1) Ford = Motorcraft or Autolite
2) GM = AC Delco
3) Chrysler/Dodge = Champion
4) Toyota = Nippen/Denso (ND)
5) Nissan = NGK
6) Honda = Nippen/Denso (ND) or NGK
7) Most German Vehicles = Bosch

Generally, it is recommended to use a fresh set of original equipment (OEM) spark plugs that are set 1-2 heat ranges cooler that stock. As a general rule of thumb, for each 8-10psi of boost, you want to run spark plugs that are 1 heat range cooler. All types of spark plugs work fine as long as you have a clean burning engine. There’s no such thing as, “What are the best spark plugs?” There are some spark plugs that you should avoid using in certain situations, but that is due to the application and not to the quality of spark plug.

Spark Plug "Fouling"

On the flip-side, you want to be able to run as cool a spark plug as possible without your spark plug "fouling". When spark plugs foul, you will notice a residue of carbon and by-product that will begin to coat the porcelain. The OEM spark plugs for your vehicle are hot enough to burn this residue into a powder-like substance that is discharged through your exhaust. However, the trick is to find a spark plug that runs cool enough to support a supercharged environment while also burning hot enough to prevent spark plug fouling.

To select the appropriate spark plugs for your application, there are a few steps that you should follow:

1) After your supercharger is installed, make sure that you are running with spark plugs that are 1 heat range cooler than stock.
2) Properly tune your fuel delivery curve so that the application is not running too rich or too lean.
3) Remove the spark plugs that are 1 heat range cooler than stock.
4) Install spark plugs that are 2 heat ranges than stock and run them for approximately 200-300 miles.
5) Remove one of the spark plugs and check for a residue of carbon and engine by-product (black substance).

If there is fouling (residue is present) then remove the 2 heat ranges cooler spark plugs and re-install the 1 heat range cooler spark plugs. If no fouling is present, then leave the 2 heat ranges cooler spark plugs installed as they are a perfect fit for your supercharged application. The image below indicates the difference in appearance of a spark plug:





Spark Plug is too hot!
Spark Plug is fouled!
Spark Plug is just right!


What is Spark Plug Gapping?

Another method of insuring proper spark is through gapping. The term “gapping” means to provide an adequate jumping distance for the spark to terminate. Gapping spark plugs is very important in both non-supercharged and supercharged applications. The average spark plug gap between the electrode and the ground is determined by the engineers that have designed the ignition. Usually, when an engine is converted to being supercharged, the gap is reduced to approximately .032 to .035. This reduction in the gap helps prevent what’s known as “spark blowout" due to the increased amount of fuel and cylinder pressure. The higher the cylinder pressure the harder it is for the spark to occur. The ability of the spark to actually take place is enhanced by decreasing the spark plug gap.

A very common problem that is seen time and time again is an application that runs smoothly until about 3,000 rpm. At that point, the engine usually sputters and the power that was being created has become non-existent. If you find yourself saying, "I can’t get this car to run…I have no idea what’s going on…it’s not running properly..." - Check the spark plug gap! More often than not, once you properly gap your spark plugs, all your worries seem to go away. It really is magic!

How to Gap Your Spark Plugs

When gapping your spark plugs, it is recommended that you always use a spark plug gapping tool. This tool can be purchased at most any auto parts store for approximately $2-$5 and is a MUST to have in your tool bag. This tool has a fork that is designed to be attached to the spark plug ground. Once that is complete, you can safely increase or decrease the spark plug gap by bending the ground wire. (If you're not 100% sure how to perform this or any task, it is always recommended that you seek out the services of a trained professional.)

Conclusion

When you decide to convert your vehicle to any type of forced induction system, it is very important to remember that:

1) a cooler spark plug is a MUST in order to prevent detonation
2) reducing the spark plug gap prevents spark blowout

One final way to enhance any forced induction system is to upgrade your ignition system to a CD, or Capacitive Discharge ignition. A CD is a box that takes the normal spark plug signal (one spark at a time) and turns it into a multiple spark distribution (ex: MSD Ignition) setup. With this setup, the solitary spark signal is transformed into 10 high-speed sparks at the same duration. The CD box tells the stock computer system to instruct the coil to make 10 sparks as opposed to 1 big spark per interval. The major benefit is that this is all done in the same amount of time, and with the same amount of energy, as a standard spark setup. The spark lasts a little longer to make sure that it fired properly - the true secret to enhancing your vehicle's performance.
 

m4nzs

Thread starter
Feb 23, 2008
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1,501
If have turbo engine, no budget better leave it stock...else you will be paying more.
hehe dont la say like tha evo5755 :burnout: .sure la all of us want the cheapest way of doing things. the reason i asked those kind of question because i`ve read somewhere in this forum wrote by senior member oso.
he said that feul regulator is not so necessary if u r not going to modified the engine so extreme. the stock regulator oso should be sufficient for low end upgrade.plus if the regulator pressure being set too high (exceeding 3bar from the desired boost) it will kill your normal driving feul consumption, and can oso kill your injector (for stock injector). another thing he said is that the stock head gasket can withstand up to a lil bit more than 1 bar and stock crank and crank bearings can withstand up to 1.4 bar.

anyway tq for the advise.
 

m4nzs

Thread starter
Feb 23, 2008
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jinkl , tq for sharing the info n expiriences.

FatAssRubber , that`s a very good info for the plug thing.
 

jinkl

4,000 RPM
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May 22, 2004
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hehe dont la say like tha evo5755 :burnout: .sure la all of us want the cheapest way of doing things. the reason i asked those kind of question because i`ve read somewhere in this forum wrote by senior member oso.
he said that feul regulator is not so necessary if u r not going to modified the engine so extreme. the stock regulator oso should be sufficient for low end upgrade.plus if the regulator pressure being set too high (exceeding 3bar from the desired boost) it will kill your normal driving feul consumption, and can oso kill your injector (for stock injector). another thing he said is that the stock head gasket can withstand up to a lil bit more than 1 bar and stock crank and crank bearings can withstand up to 1.4 bar.

anyway tq for the advise.
got it wrong babe , u can use stock regulator its not a problem , but its a must have item to atleast have an SAFC to tune ur Air Fuel Ratio.
 

zakie

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Jul 7, 2005
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1-speed cut?? easy, modified ECU la, dun d-i-y. later meletop ECU then terbang RM, hantar to kedai laaaa ask kedai c-foo abt it, sure can do, 300km/h max oso can... want to terbang oso can, hehehehe..... lawak2

2-for vR4 & evo budget corner for spark plugs is, BPR7ES its a virago spark plugs and will cost u only RM8-RM9 each only, but oso u have u find the right c-foo to measure the plugs....

3- bro, i tell u sincerely laaa, turbo its a very xpensive u noe, its a lie if sumone said he can do cheap2 one, better keep ur block safe 1st, care abt it 1st, coz evo block easy to 'meletup' one, if u wrongly upboost, meletup once then u noe laaa the headache, hahahahaa....... better put on the metal gasket 1st, its the most important things to upgrade... then upgrade ur hoses, such as water hose & intercooler piping, after that u go upgrade ur engine wiring make sure the 'check engine' working properly, then ur 'stock engine' is ready to be upgrade, dun say laaa u install the evo just 4 fun, tipu laaa like that u noe, for sure sumday u musti mau upgrade punya, mana bleh tahan kena kencing dgn GSR kaa, v-tec kaaaaa, hahahahahaa..... lawak u noe.... just making jokes bro, no heart feeling arr..... hhehheheee

by the way, welkam to turbo worLd!!!
 

FatAssRubber

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Feb 12, 2007
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refering to fuel regulator, jinkl's last comment was correct. Leave it std unless you are doint something like 1.8 bar.

again, please ask all the salesmen and half baked mechanic to go to hell if they try to push you to buy regulator. not that you want to be boastful (or me) but its all in the engineering.

What we want to achieve in fueling pressure is not the volume of fuel as most people think. its the pressure differential of nozzle pressure (fuel rail pressure) versus manifold pressure. which bigger difference, better atomization & more temperature drop which prevent knocking and smoother firing. not to rich it up. Actually, higher fuel rail pressure means less effective fuel volume from your fueling system. Those who "ada baca" all understand that "Isipadu adalah fungsi sonsang terhadap Tekanan"

Instead of changing fuel regulator, get a bigger pump to bump up the pressure with more volume.

Rule of thumb, fuel rail pressure should be around 30 psi (2 bar) min above manifold pressure. Therefore, if you are boosting 0.7 bar (11psi) then you rail pressure should be 41 psi, 2.7 bar min. if you are boosting at 1 bar, then 3 bar rail pressure. Some stupid mechanic simply tell you 60 psi. That because he may have worked on something like GTR or Evos which boosted up to 2 bar.

Most cases when people listen to the mechanic and do so, increase the pressure , the pump work much harder and deliver less fuel. when the fuel is too little... kaboom goes your engine. and you can sell back the regulator to the shop so he can con another owner.

anyway.. have fun with my 2 cents worth of information...
 

evo5755

Known Member
Senior Member
Jan 11, 2004
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hehe dont la say like tha evo5755 :burnout: .sure la all of us want the cheapest way of doing things. the reason i asked those kind of question because i`ve read somewhere in this forum wrote by senior member oso.
he said that feul regulator is not so necessary if u r not going to modified the engine so extreme. the stock regulator oso should be sufficient for low end upgrade.plus if the regulator pressure being set too high (exceeding 3bar from the desired boost) it will kill your normal driving feul consumption, and can oso kill your injector (for stock injector). another thing he said is that the stock head gasket can withstand up to a lil bit more than 1 bar and stock crank and crank bearings can withstand up to 1.4 bar.

anyway tq for the advise.
Bro, its just a piece of advise from experience....Evo block is known as "tauhu" block among us....you boost it high, kaboom...those high booster, will opt for Vr4 blocks or 4G67. I dont think can stock evo can stand 1.4 bar. i have real life scenarios that owners boosting at 1.2 bar with stock Evo 2 and 3 went kaboom!!! as mentioned by sifus around here like jinkl, for turbo engine most important is fuel. Not enough fuel, supply, you can say bye bye...not to mention other mechanical aspects.

If those tulang ikan can replace boost controller, i think japanese company like HKS, Blits and etc will go bankrupt with their EBC. You never know what those tulang ikan can cause to your engine...boost spike...

And boost is addictive....You drive 0.6 bar now, and then sudenly u try driving at boost 1.2 bar, u feel like you are in "different world"...then u tune back to 0.6 bar you feel like shit, because you have tried 1.2 bar. People tell you, "ok punya", and since budget is not on your side you continue driving at 1.2 bar and next thing......hehe..you guess what....

Just my 2 cents
 

khoyos

2,000 RPM
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Nov 23, 2003
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to maintain reliability, better keep the boost below 1 bar. yeah sure many people said they ran more than 1 bar on stock evo block without any problems whatsoever, but those are the lucky ones...

for plugs, buy BPR6ES (ask for hyundai plugs from spare part shop) if u drive mostly in normal traffic. for enthusiastic driving like weekend runs, use BPR7ES (virago plugs from motorbike shop). most mechanics would just install wira 1.6 plugs (BKR6E-11) on vr4/evo engines but BPR6ES is the OEM recommended plugs. i used no 6 for daily use, and during weekends, i used no 7. the plugs are cheap so no harm having both sets...

4G63 engines are built for fun, so just enjoy it as it is. dont gatal tangan go change here change that cos trust me, u dont want to go through the process that most of us here went through.

leave it stock, enhance on reliability (racing clutch, good air filter, good fuel pump, install safc and have it properly tuned, good suspension n brake parts) and u will be smiling when ur frens whose cars are faster than ur car keep on sending their cars to workshop because of never ending problems...
while their cars are parked in workshop, u can enjoy ur car without worrying whats going to kaput next...
 

HyperRevved 6313

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Guys,
i'm using BPR8ES on my evo 3 engine for daily use . I've use it for few months , until now the plug is stil in good condition without any major problem exist.

Is there any 1 using dis plug as well ? Wat is de different between BPR7ES and BPR8ES ?
 

jinkl

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May 22, 2004
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Guys,
i'm using BPR8ES on my evo 3 engine for daily use . I've use it for few months , until now the plug is stil in good condition without any major problem exist.

Is there any 1 using dis plug as well ? Wat is de different between BPR7ES and BPR8ES ?
heat range, 6 is stock , 7 is cold , 8 is even colder
 

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