WTS: boost cut ??

hehehhehehehehe
jgn marah ..............................
OIC , monster in the making wo:adore: just my personal opinion...if u plan to mod i.e bigger turbo,injectors and high profile cam...just reflash the ecu is NOT a good direction...:idea:
 
mine stock only................... not the monster /beast over out there.......:adore::adore::adore:
mine was think about which 1 not to spend ....$$$$$ so much:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:
any body there can help me:smokin::listen:
 
sub7, is it possible to change only the boost cut from 1.5 to 1.6 ? the rest all leave it original, can arh ? then there will be new boost cut at 1.6.

i in penang, if i go down kl i will arrange with you. thanks.

Without a boost controller and (from the sounds of it) a faulty actuator, very soon you'll ask sub7 to change boost cut to 2.2bar.
 
Thx bernard. If you run on stock ecu and boost above 1.6bar, the map will run out and ecu have no reference to your afr/timing (hence retard -10 timing). Well, that's expected.

If you have boost controller, it merely hold your boost and ecu boost cut remain there. It was misleading when someone said boost controller could take away ecu boost cut. :) What I'm saying, you have to increase your stock boost limit if you go above 1.3bar (that doesn't include boost spike at early morning/night when air is cooler).

I tuned a trek with GT28 boosting at 1.6bar, car jerk like mad when fuel cut came in at 1.2bar (due to increase of load). I merely explain what I learnt and share with you... please don't flame me yah... :biggrin:
 
....and your engine eventually become sicker if u continuously boosting 1.5-1.6 without remap your stock ecu..:hmmmm:
 
i just don't want to touch (or modify) the engine, if that is the faulty actuator, i will try to order an after market one to replace.

i have installed back the original catalystic converter (previous was 2.5 inch straigh pipe), boost is now more stable at 1.3~1.35, no more boost cut. but i feel the car is really slow now compared to previous.

i am now waiting for them to make a 2.2 inch straight pipe to replace the catalystic converter.
i will let you all know the outcome in a few days.

thanks for all reply anyway.
 
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i just don't want to touch (or modify) the engine, if that is the faulty actuator, i will try to order an after market one to replace.

i have installed back the original catalystic converter (previous was 2.5 inch straigh pipe), boost is now more stable at 1.3~1.35, no more boost cut. but i feel the car is really slow now compared to previous.

i am now waiting for them to make a 2.2 inch straight pipe to replace the catalystic converter.
i will let you all know the outcome in a few days.

thanks for all reply anyway.

:stupid::stupid::stupid::stupid::stupid::stupid:
:smokin:
 
i just don't want to touch (or modify) the engine, if that is the faulty actuator, i will try to order an after market one to replace.

i have installed back the original catalystic converter (previous was 2.5 inch straigh pipe), boost is now more stable at 1.3~1.35, no more boost cut. but i feel the car is really slow now compared to previous.

i am now waiting for them to make a 2.2 inch straight pipe to replace the catalystic converter.
i will let you all know the outcome in a few days.

thanks for all reply anyway.
Just my 2 cents bro... u r creating a 'bottle neck' in your exhaust system with this set up... I also take out my catalytic converter...and my boost still stable...
 
i just don't want to touch (or modify) the engine, if that is the faulty actuator, i will try to order an after market one to replace.

i have installed back the original catalystic converter (previous was 2.5 inch straigh pipe), boost is now more stable at 1.3~1.35, no more boost cut. but i feel the car is really slow now compared to previous.

i am now waiting for them to make a 2.2 inch straight pipe to replace the catalystic converter.
i will let you all know the outcome in a few days.

thanks for all reply anyway.

No one here is saying you should touch your engine. I think it's best to ask your mechanic to confirm if the actuator is the problem. As for putting back the catalystic converter... I'll be surprised if you say your mechanic didn't try to stop you.
 
my mechanic cannot confirm the actuator got problem, but can try to replace at my own cost. hahaha...

actually i put back the catalystic converter for testing purpose only. because it is plug and play, easy only, cost me only RM12 for labour, done in exhaust shop.

here are some aftermarket actuators, convert to RM, they are not cheap, around RM1200 or RM1300 i think. only the CyberEVO one by Garage HRS is for 1.5 kg/cm2.

SCAN0788a.jpg
 
anyone understand japs ? what it says about original actuator ?

SCAN0786a.jpg
 
not to say actuators no good....but its a faulty part of the stock turbo IMHO:thefinger:
most of the seasoned bros who din go bigger :slug:, usually "MOD" the stock turbo to bypass having the actuator functionality ;) :nurse: ext. WASTEGATE mari mari :rofl:
 
try ecutek..i have it on my car...maybe when changed the car parts the settings becomes whacked and all....just send the ecu to remap as maybe the air flow and the oil settings has changed.try la..goodluck
 
if u changed any part. exmple... ekzos/ pluck/piping/air filter ..
have to remap ecu.????:hmmmm:
 

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