WORKS ENGINEERING Performance Camshafts for CAMPRO

[drexchan]

Works Engineering Billet Performance Camshafts

After months of prototyping, testing and refining, involving expertise from our own shore, Taiwan and the USA, Works engineering finally released their 267 Stage I performance cams for all Proton Campro 1.3/1.6 (non-CPS). These Stage I camshafts don't require replacement of valve springs, thus plug & play to to the engine head. Dyno-chart is not available yet at this moment, but put your trust on Works Engineering and EA Autoworks.

Machined out of high-tensile carbon steel billet. Not regrind/reprofiled cams.
Intake duration: 267 degrees (25' BTDC - 62' ABDC)
Exhaust Duration: 267 degrees (61' BBDC - 26' ATDC)
Overlapping: 51 degrees
Cam lift: 10.6mm (measured on cam lopes)

Comparison (Standard factory Cams)
Intake duration: 235 degrees
Exhaust Duration: 240 degrees
Overlapping: 22 degrees

RM1899/pair (camshafts only) or RM2350/set (including ACG)

PRODUCT RANGE:: All non-CPS Campro Models

INSTALLATION: RM200

WARRANTY: 1 Year

CALL 019-3593909 (Drex Chan)

 

[drexchan]

 

[drexchan]

The cams have been 'Parkerized' (notice the black surface)

Parkerizing is a surface treatment using a heated acid bath, which microscopically etches the metal surface and leaves a thin layer of graphite which allows the lubricant to hang onto and penetrate into the cam surface during break-in.

No local performance cam maker parkerize their cams!

Look at the lobe profile with broad tip!

Compare it to any brand (brand P, brand M & brand R) that reprofile a stock cam. You will notice that regrind cams have narrower lobe tip. Narrow cam lobe tip is what causing valve float during hi-rev, and poor low-end performance.

Camshaft with broader tips such as Works Engineering Stage 1 cams is SAFER even with higher lift. Broader cam profile also accelerate the valves slower, reducing stress on the valve train and reducing power-loss at low-rev.

---------- Post added 10-04-2010 at 12:29 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was 10-03-2010 at 10:49 PM ----------

 

[davidv00]

2 questions:

1. if only buy camshaft, will it works with stock ECU?
2. if use hotbits camgear, what are the best intake and exhaust adjustment?

 

[drexchan]

2 questions:

1. if only buy camshaft, will it works with stock ECU?
2. if use hotbits camgear, what are the best intake and exhaust adjustment?

Yes 100% compatible, adjustable cam gears are not compulsory for the shafts to work perfectly with the standard ECU. As for the gears, what brand at what degree doesn't matter. Having said that it runs perfectly without having to dial it, what matters is what you want to achieve and what method you use to do so.

 

[Kidd]

Hi Drex, does installation same as stock cam timing setting (TDC). Understand that to find stock TDC just follow the markings at crankshaft / bottom part of the timing belt area (remove crank pulley) and top at the cam pulley there's another marking. Or do we have to dial in to get the timing correct? Sorry just wondering newbie here.

 

[drexchan]

Hi Drex, does installation same as stock cam timing setting (TDC). Understand that to find stock TDC just follow the markings at crankshaft / bottom part of the timing belt area (remove crank pulley) and top at the cam pulley there's another marking. Or do we have to dial in to get the timing correct? Sorry just wondering newbie here.

Aligning the camshafts and the crankshaft to the designated markings and tightening the belt according to the specific tension is the standard procedure applicable to both stock cams and aftermarket cams. Works Engineering cams are installed in the same way. In fact, no other ways.

But then, we have questions - how to we know that the cams are properly aligned to the crankshaft? Do the valves open or close at the correct angles? In short, is it within specification and tolerance? This is a very subjective question indeed.

So it's about specification and tolerance. Even old belt slacking can retard the valve timing, while thicker head gasket advances the timing by as much as +/- 2 crank degrees. Replacing the camshafts, especially aftermarket shafts, certainly changes that too, intentionally. So it's GOOD to dial the cams, but not compulsory.

Performance cams, if they are designed so, would be running absolutely fine within the tolerance without having to dial them. In fact, any cam runs well without dialing if they are made within the specification/tolerance.

For instance, most tuned engines don't run the cams (stock or non-stock) dialed to the right TDC for specific purposes/uses. So it's all about what you want to achieve - follow the manufacturer's spec or to have your own spec.

 

[Kidd]

Wow well said, thks Drex.

 

[drexchan]

Wow well said, thks Drex.

But I don't think I answered your question. Anyway, more photo for the installation of the cams.

 

[drexchan]

 

[drexchan]

A Campro IAFM.......

hmm.... the round toothed things...

Sugar canes!!!

A Persona extracting Power Juice from Sugar Canes!!

 

[drexchan]

 

[drexchan]

Bring up my topic.

 

[drexchan]

 

[drexchan]

bring up my topic.

 

[drexchan]

Bring up my topic.

 

[a.chen93]

bro, still selling ?

 

[drexchan]

bro, still selling ?

Yes but another (milder) profile but it won;t be available so soon.
I will inform through update in this thread.

 

[a.chen93]

alrite. just a quick question,

as stated these cams plug n play without replacing valve springs but what about EMS settings ? do i need any to re-map my stock ems and replace others stuffs ?

 

[drexchan]

A pair of cam gears are all you need to run the engine smoothly.