Proton Ertiga unveiled - 1.4-litre, EEV-certified, from RM59k!

Cleaning the tip of the injectors?



Self DIY or your friend is a mechanic?

No, cleaning the intake manifold and valves coz GDi does not spray fuel to the inlet hence the valves do not get cleaned by the fuel.

For my car I don't DIY that coz quite a number of things to open even though actually still can DIY if serious.
 
No, cleaning the intake manifold and valves coz GDi does not spray fuel to the inlet hence the valves do not get cleaned by the fuel.

For my car I don't DIY that coz quite a number of things to open even though actually still can DIY if serious.

I get it. Because fuel helps to clean away dirty stuff too. Since direct injection only spray fuel right before ignition inside the combustion chamber, the top part of the engine is not cleaned.

Last time you DIY your Mitsubishi cars? :biggrin:
 
I get it. Because fuel helps to clean away dirty stuff too. Since direct injection only spray fuel right before ignition inside the combustion chamber, the top part of the engine is not cleaned.

Last time you DIY your Mitsubishi cars? :biggrin:

Yeah for some simpler things only, like TB & injector cleaning, carbon cleaning, setting timing and idle, coolant flushing, replacing some parts like motor fans, cam cover gasket, thermostat, spark plugs, stepper motor, rotating tires, simple stuff like those only.
 
Yeah for some simpler things only, like TB & injector cleaning, carbon cleaning, setting timing and idle, coolant flushing, replacing some parts like motor fans, cam cover gasket, thermostat, spark plugs, stepper motor, rotating tires, simple stuff like those only.

Injector cleaning, setting timing and idle don't really sound too simple if you are not a pro. But back then you are working with the simpler 4G67, 4G63 and 4G93. Now your 4GR-FSE V6 seems much more complicated than that.
 
Injector cleaning, setting timing and idle don't really sound too simple if you are not a pro. But back then you are working with the simpler 4G67, 4G63 and 4G93. Now your 4GR-FSE V6 seems much more complicated than that.

Ya of course, this V6 now is a lot more complicated leh! Just looking at the engine, I'm lazy already to fiddle around with it! Anyway things like timing, idle, are all automatic based on the ECU mapping already so not much to play around anymore. That's why I missed my old 4 cyl Mitsus...
 
Ya of course, this V6 now is a lot more complicated leh! Just looking at the engine, I'm lazy already to fiddle around with it! Anyway things like timing, idle, are all automatic based on the ECU mapping already so not much to play around anymore. That's why I missed my old 4 cyl Mitsus...

It is also a direct injection unit isn't it? Well, you still got a Livina to play with.

Old engines are always simple and straightforward in their approach. That is probably why any one can be a mechanic under apprenticeship of another mechanic during the old days. Today, you need to go automotive colleges and get a paper to be a well trained mechanic!
 
It is also a direct injection unit isn't it? Well, you still got a Livina to play with.

Old engines are always simple and straightforward in their approach. That is probably why any one can be a mechanic under apprenticeship of another mechanic during the old days. Today, you need to go automotive colleges and get a paper to be a well trained mechanic!

Livina, not interested to fiddle around with it, just a plain boring car! :rofl: I just rotate the tires once to show my kids how to jack up a car and unbolt and bolt rims to the car. Oh and I also replace the driver's side mirror mounting, coz some idiot biker whacked it till broken, that's all.
I was told that cannot simply take out the throttle body to do carbon clean also coz it will ruin it or something. New car nowadays too complicated, so I'm lazy to touch that car also.
 
Self DIY or your friend is a mechanic?

My friend bought the cleaning stuffs, solution and kit, but still need mechanic to open up, he cleans then mechanic fit back. Seems is special stuff and he did apps me some pictures last time, after 40k km the gunk stuck there is horrible.....lol
 
Livina, not interested to fiddle around with it, just a plain boring car! :rofl: I just rotate the tires once to show my kids how to jack up a car and unbolt and bolt rims to the car. Oh and I also replace the driver's side mirror mounting, coz some idiot biker whacked it till broken, that's all.
I was told that cannot simply take out the throttle body to do carbon clean also coz it will ruin it or something. New car nowadays too complicated, so I'm lazy to touch that car also.

Livina's intake manifold runners look stupid from what I see. Same goes for Almera. Intake air is supposed to be cool but these runners are placed right over the top of the engine itself. Won't that like somehow warm up the intake air? And recently I learned from my mechanic that Livina needs to use special platinum spark plugs which can cost like RM200 a set. He told me normal plugs can't be used. I googled for Livina spark plugs and indeed the results are those expensive plugs. :banghead:

My friend bought the cleaning stuffs, solution and kit, but still need mechanic to open up, he cleans then mechanic fit back. Seems is special stuff and he did apps me some pictures last time, after 40k km the gunk stuck there is horrible.....lol

Sounds terrible if you ask me. Every 40k km or less need to open so many things to clean up. Now, this reminds me of rotary engines where they need a rebuild to change apex seal after a certain mileage. Around 40k km too from what I heard.

How did we stray out of topic so far until here. From Ertiga to Indonesian cars to RON to knocking to GDi and now to DIY. :biggrin:
 
Livina's intake manifold runners look stupid from what I see. Same goes for Almera. Intake air is supposed to be cool but these runners are placed right over the top of the engine itself. Won't that like somehow warm up the intake air? And recently I learned from my mechanic that Livina needs to use special platinum spark plugs which can cost like RM200 a set. He told me normal plugs can't be used. I googled for Livina spark plugs and indeed the results are those expensive plugs. :banghead:



Sounds terrible if you ask me. Every 40k km or less need to open so many things to clean up. Now, this reminds me of rotary engines where they need a rebuild to change apex seal after a certain mileage. Around 40k km too from what I heard.

How did we stray out of topic so far until here. From Ertiga to Indonesian cars to RON to knocking to GDi and now to DIY. :biggrin:

But the intake plenum is plastic so should not easily transfers heat.
Yah, the plugs I think cannot use normal cheap plugs but I haven't change mine yet, still only 50k km mileage.

Yeah typical of ZTH what! :biggrin:
 
But the intake plenum is plastic so should not easily transfers heat.
Yah, the plugs I think cannot use normal cheap plugs but I haven't change mine yet, still only 50k km mileage.

Yeah typical of ZTH what! :biggrin:

New engines today are so delicate. Need extra care for this and that. :banghead: Sometimes when people used to bash Vios for the same 1NZ-FE that they are using, I don't think that is a bad decision... If they are proven to be reliable and simple, just use it. Change new engine, later new problem arises, everyone loses their mind. Like the Audi A4 thread where you mention it consumes engine oil like crazy. New high tech engine but still a lot of failure.
 
New engines today are so delicate. Need extra care for this and that. :banghead: Sometimes when people used to bash Vios for the same 1NZ-FE that they are using, I don't think that is a bad decision... If they are proven to be reliable and simple, just use it. Change new engine, later new problem arises, everyone loses their mind. Like the Audi A4 thread where you mention it consumes engine oil like crazy. New high tech engine but still a lot of failure.

Maybe purposely engineered to fail so that they can have good business in parts & services too. :biggrin:
 
Maybe purposely engineered to fail so that they can have good business in parts & services too. :biggrin:

Hahahahahaha. But that will drag down their reputation. I guess those western car reviewers have some truth in their saying that Japanese cars are always reliable compared to Euro cars.

Now, I don't really trust anything much from Volkswagen group. So many stupid problems in their car lineup... Only Porsche seems to be doing good with a lot of praises though.... Maybe because Porsche is the main shareholder or VW Group...
 
I just went to Proton showroom last week to test drive the new Saga and take a look at this Ertiga. In term of space, it's slightly bigger than Perodua Alza. Didn't get to test drive it as there was no test drive unit available at that time. Overall fit and finish I think it's not bad (its a Suzuki underneath, so should be no problem).

---------- Post added at 10:23 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:17 PM ----------

Exactly!

If the engine is high compression, like 10:1 or above then you may feel just a slight benefit of ron97 but if not then it won't. It got nothing to do with being a new car or old car. I'm using Toyota Mark X with 12:1 compression, granted it's a GDI engine, but even with such high compression the difference between 95 & 97 is not really significant. No knocking when I use 95, fuel consumption also about the same, which means my engine has mapping for as low as ron95, so I just use 95 even though ideally in Japan use 98, not even 97.

As for turbo cars like your 4G93T, it should give more significant power increase if you turn up the boost higher! The higher ron allows you to achieve higher boost, that's the benefit. If not increasing the boost then will not feel anything la.

My CFE engine knocks a bit when using RON95. I can hear it clearly on a hot afternoon, especially when accelerating hard. No knocking at all when using RON97. Complained a few times already at Proton SC, but still they couldn't solve the problem. So I just use RON97 although its getting more expensive nowadays.. arghh! :banghead:
 
I just went to Proton showroom last week to test drive the new Saga and take a look at this Ertiga. In term of space, it's slightly bigger than Perodua Alza. Didn't get to test drive it as there was no test drive unit available at that time. Overall fit and finish I think it's not bad (its a Suzuki underneath, so should be no problem).

---------- Post added at 10:23 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:17 PM ----------



My CFE engine knocks a bit when using RON95. I can hear it clearly on a hot afternoon, especially when accelerating hard. No knocking at all when using RON97. Complained a few times already at Proton SC, but still they couldn't solve the problem. So I just use RON97 although its getting more expensive nowadays.. arghh! :banghead:
If use all Suzuki just re-badge then should not be bad. If start using local cheaper parts like proton then will have problem....lol

Well, if knock have to use Ron97, better than having the engine fail.....:driver:
 
If use all Suzuki just re-badge then should not be bad. If start using local cheaper parts like proton then will have problem....lol

Well, if knock have to use Ron97, better than having the engine fail.....:driver:

Is Suzuki cars reliable? I have a friend who drove an old Vitara, always have problems until can't start the engine.
 
Vitara too old dy.....lol
What I know a lot complain expensive parts.....hhahhahaha:rofl:

Probably Vitara engine not as reliable as 4G1 series or Toyota's 4A-FE. :biggrin:

Another friend owned a 4 year old Alto. He told me the car isn't really that good. But he din't say anything specific about what is not good.
 

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