Insufficient Fuel or No proper setting

epj7900

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May 18, 2005
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hello people,

I have a problem and need some suggestions.

My 4G63T was fully overhauled. What is did was used ACL Racing Bearing ( Main & Conrods ), then balanced the flywheel, conrods, pistons and clutch cover with MatSpeed. I installed a Toda Metal head gasket.

Currently I am using Thailand Brand Manifold and Wastegate and at 2.8 bar fuel pressure my manifold is turning red. Any lower no power and higher - the engine feels heavy. Any idea where I should troubleshoot.

I had the HKS TwinPlate (don't having the release bearing - and the modified one cannot tahan ) and got it changed with my old Exedy Semi Racing. This clutch previously was slipping a little. Now it seems worse. Cannot catch. RPM shoots to 7K but car moving slowly because of the clutch. Please advice me what could be the best way to start improving this. I have spent quite a bit and dun want to unnecessarily spend more.

1) Can my fuel problem be solved by replacing RX 7 injectors ?

2) Can my clutch problem be improved by changing to a new clutch. Am planning to buy the standard one - Daikin. My foremen mentioned that use Mitsubishi original - The whole set is RM 500 where Daikin OEM replacement Made In Japan is RM 300. He said that Malaysia part are difficult to trust - got immitation it seems.

3) Change my Banana Manifold and Wastegate to standard manifold and wastegate.

4) Other suggestions.

Hope for your best suggestions.

Regards
 

Joeker

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Your clutch slip could be due to several reasons.

1.) HKS Twin plate? New? used?

2.) Did you drive sedately when you installed the new clutch friction disc? If you raped the clutch, then chances are you have destroyed the clutch.

A new clutch friction disc needs to be run in before being driven hard.

3.) Clutch Cover as in Diaphram?
 

epj7900

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May 18, 2005
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Joeker said:
Your clutch slip could be due to several reasons.

1.) HKS Twin plate? New? used?

2.) Did you drive sedately when you installed the new clutch friction disc? If you raped the clutch, then chances are you have destroyed the clutch.

A new clutch friction disc needs to be run in before being driven hard.

3.) Clutch Cover as in Diaphram?

1) HKS GD Pro Twin Plate - 2nd Hand. Plate is still okay but the Diaphram is supposed to be 2 layers but kena makan - left only one layer. Can this be reengineered ? The plate can makan with a modified release bearing but when it was reopended due to noise bearing - one kaki at the bearing already broke. I suppose due to pressure. I am wondering if I could take the diaphram from another pressure plate and transfer to this cover - may be at an engineering shop ? As for the bearing - it's just that the original evo bearing is not high enough - so they modified and raised it. Any suggestions so that I can use this clutch ? This is the reason why I am planning to use back my stock flywheel , clutch and cover

2) I drove slowly - no raping. Haven't been able to test my car properly. But I was informed that my original flywheel is not even. Any chance this could be the problem. My current 3 puck exedy seems to have compound still. Not untill can see metal. Looks pretty okay. May be slipping due to other factors ah ?

3) Yup - Clutch cover meaning diaphram.

I plan to slowly solve one by one. Is it feasible for me to change to std clutch or change my flywheel and check my clutch once again.
 

Joeker

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1. i think first you change the clutch and diapharm with new unit.

2. 2nd, skim and balance the flywheel.

if you are not even driving fast and clutch still slip, your clutch or diapharm are fucked-up,
 

epj7900

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Joeker,

I will replace the std clutch first. I suppose that may be the problem. After Ok then may be I can consider getting the 3 puck or fix back my HKS GD Pro.

Any ideas for my manifold turning red. Will increase in fuel solve my problem ?

Cheers mate
 

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