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Well.. three hours of life wasted looking at OBD-1 wiring diagram while figuring how to tap the wires into the jumper harness.
THIS IS NOT FOR OBD-2 EKs/7th Gen Civics!
If someone installs one, I hope he makes a writeup like this as well.
So far, the progress is slow, but finally got the hang of it to write about it from my head. Which is why I'm writing it today, because I still remember since I did it just now, and this time, I'm gonna crosspost it to the innovate forums, so I can check back on them.. Last time zth database got reset, I lost a lot of my stuff that I wanted to refer back to. I'm hoping that one day zth hondarians will hold the adage of "share and share alike" so that our modding scene will progress beyond cosmetic upgrades with taiwan-knockoffs. I want to see a daily driven 10 sec car as well.. :P
The LM-1 and Auxbox is not so straightforward to wire, as the information given are generic, and meant for all cars.
So here's a writeup for an OBD-1 car, which the sensors are same across the models (I think so, but better check them if you're wiring them on an OBD-1 accord or something.) J101 should find this an interesting read I hope, and hopefully he can check if I made an error anywhere.
You can read some of the questions I asked on the innovate forums before attempting this, it was quite an experience as well.
Since I'm doing it on a jumper harness, I didn't note the colour, so I just counted the pins based on the ECU wiring diagram off the honda workshop manual. I took the color off a OBD-1 schematic chart in honda-tech, so it may differ, BEWARE!)
Note: Please let me know of errors and I will add to it as necessary
The pins involved are: (in sets, easier to wire one sensor at a time.)
The connector numbering, well.. I'll do it later, when I have time. But unless you're familiar with OBD-1 pin schematics, I'll not recommend this as a DIY job unless you're slightly familiar with OBD-1 connectors.
_______________________________________________________________
B1 injector power ground.
yellow/black
(this is +ve live terminal, do not short it! ground means that all injector power is grounded on this wire. this is for duty cycle reading)
A1 injector -ve terminal.
brown
(this is for duty cycle reading)
Note, use Ch2 (or any other channel that's programmable to read duty cycle on the auxbox, )
Remember to use LM programmer to configure the Auxbox sensor inputs before you wire these. According to Klattin from Innovate, the Auxbox can tolerate up to 40V, but can only digitise 0-5V. Injectors are 12V, so obviously you do not want to mix this up with the sensor wires.
As to needing to read positive edge or negative edge pulse, than one will be later when I actually connect it to the injectors later. I could have confused it with the tach signal in regards to the negative edge and positive edge, so I'll check later after I wire the thing up tonight.
Edit..
There was no need to wire the positive apparently, as I only needed one wire from the injector -ve to one of the auxbox channels.
_______________________________________________________________
A21 rpm signal.
red/green
(this is your tach/rpm output.. no ground needed at the -ve point on the auxbox as LM-1/Auxbox uses the cigarette lighter ground. I think it's possible to wire the ground to body or engine block as innovate recommends it, but I didn't do it that way because I'm too f**king lazy to drag an extra ground wire through the firewall to the engine block.
This is wired into the Auxbox Ch1 +ve terminal.
________________________________________________________________
D11 tps signal
light green OR red/black (again, I counted pins, so I didn't note the colour)
(this is your throttle position sensor output, it's a +ve terminal)
A funny thing happened during this stage, as I unplugged my TPS sensor while setting it, and for got to plug it back in.. I didn't get the near 5V at WOT and I actually thought that new fangled digital multimeter got whacked... I took my old vintage analogue one and tested, no go also..
Then my mech pointed out that I forgot to plug the TPS sensor back in.. kena kaw-kaw from him.. LOL... an unplugged TPS sensor doesn't throw a checklight.. interesting, that one.
Depending on what you set the auxbox to, this can be any of the other 3 channels OTHER than Ch1 and Ch2 (or two, if you wired the thermocouple wire which is too damn short for EGT readings since it needs to be on the headers, which are at the FRONT of the car, as opposed to other with exhaust ports facing the firewall.)
________________________________________________________________
D17 MAP sensor
white (civic)
white/blue(integra)
(Your manifold air pressure sensor. This measures the vaccuum present (and boost, if set in the logworks)
Straightforward, the voltage and PSI values are given by innovate in their ECU schematics on their website. To convert to another format is automatic after you enter the initial value.
________________________________________________________________
D15 IAT sensor
red/yellow
(this is your intake air temp sensor, using the built in logworks and the map sensor, you can calculate volume of air entering the engine.. still unfamiliar with this though, so if a fellow hondarian already manages to do this in logworks, appreciate any help.
It also requires that I measure the resistance of the sensor in 3 different temps, get resistance, find out the load resistor, wire it up, enter the 3 values I got from the test, and that's where I'm stuck. My mech says that 0deg and room temp shouldn't be a problem, but 100deg boiling temp might not be good for the plastic.
So at the moment, this one remains unwired till I get some answers in the Innovate forums.
D13 ECT sensor
Engine coolant temp sensor, or known as 'water-temp' here.
red/white or yellow/blue
Like the IAT, you need to set the voltage increments in logworks with the thermistorcalc app, as the temp versus voltage curve isn't linear. All temp sensors are like that, which is why ECT and IAT sensors will be left for last.
This one, I need to detach the ECT sensor, which is not really located at a convenient location. So leaving this one unwired (for now) as well.
________________________________________________________________
D14 Narrowband O2 signal wire
white or white/red
This is for mounting the Bosch LSU-4 into the muffler O2 bung.. I will not use the narrowband, so the analogue 1 out from the LM1 will go here. Grounding is not sure yet, I'll pull a ground wire to A26 as necessary. after all it's a sub 3V output. I think it's 1.5-2V max thereabouts, but that's from my head, need to refer LM-1 analogue output settings, since the factory defaults for analogue 1 output is for narrowband 02 sensor already.
My only worry for now is that the unconnected 02 heater power might throw a checklight.
________________________________________________________________
A26 Logic ground (this is a -ve terminal) All sensors will be grounded here. There's alternatives like the D22/D21, but the jumper harness I'm using already tapped the ground here, so I'm using that. I'm not sure if grounding it through the body would work, hopefully when I post this in the innovate forums, I might get some answers or corrections.
_________________________________________________________________
Obviously, this is a work in progress, so don't go out and buy one just yet, wait till this is done. :P
Sunway people should sponsor me some dosh for promoting the LM-1/Auxbox combo like this.. :P
Work in progress photoes.. Yes, I'm quite messy when working, which is why my mechanic does the fixing, and why I only study the theories. :P
In this case, I insisted on doing it myself, since it's my own car after all. :P
My mech is way neater than me.. :P
Note I tagged each and every single wire.. I'm so forgetful.. :P
Pictures are clickable for larger image.
THIS IS NOT FOR OBD-2 EKs/7th Gen Civics!
If someone installs one, I hope he makes a writeup like this as well.
So far, the progress is slow, but finally got the hang of it to write about it from my head. Which is why I'm writing it today, because I still remember since I did it just now, and this time, I'm gonna crosspost it to the innovate forums, so I can check back on them.. Last time zth database got reset, I lost a lot of my stuff that I wanted to refer back to. I'm hoping that one day zth hondarians will hold the adage of "share and share alike" so that our modding scene will progress beyond cosmetic upgrades with taiwan-knockoffs. I want to see a daily driven 10 sec car as well.. :P
The LM-1 and Auxbox is not so straightforward to wire, as the information given are generic, and meant for all cars.
So here's a writeup for an OBD-1 car, which the sensors are same across the models (I think so, but better check them if you're wiring them on an OBD-1 accord or something.) J101 should find this an interesting read I hope, and hopefully he can check if I made an error anywhere.
You can read some of the questions I asked on the innovate forums before attempting this, it was quite an experience as well.
Since I'm doing it on a jumper harness, I didn't note the colour, so I just counted the pins based on the ECU wiring diagram off the honda workshop manual. I took the color off a OBD-1 schematic chart in honda-tech, so it may differ, BEWARE!)
Note: Please let me know of errors and I will add to it as necessary
The pins involved are: (in sets, easier to wire one sensor at a time.)
The connector numbering, well.. I'll do it later, when I have time. But unless you're familiar with OBD-1 pin schematics, I'll not recommend this as a DIY job unless you're slightly familiar with OBD-1 connectors.
_______________________________________________________________
B1 injector power ground.
yellow/black
(this is +ve live terminal, do not short it! ground means that all injector power is grounded on this wire. this is for duty cycle reading)
A1 injector -ve terminal.
brown
(this is for duty cycle reading)
Note, use Ch2 (or any other channel that's programmable to read duty cycle on the auxbox, )
Remember to use LM programmer to configure the Auxbox sensor inputs before you wire these. According to Klattin from Innovate, the Auxbox can tolerate up to 40V, but can only digitise 0-5V. Injectors are 12V, so obviously you do not want to mix this up with the sensor wires.
As to needing to read positive edge or negative edge pulse, than one will be later when I actually connect it to the injectors later. I could have confused it with the tach signal in regards to the negative edge and positive edge, so I'll check later after I wire the thing up tonight.
Edit..
There was no need to wire the positive apparently, as I only needed one wire from the injector -ve to one of the auxbox channels.
_______________________________________________________________
A21 rpm signal.
red/green
(this is your tach/rpm output.. no ground needed at the -ve point on the auxbox as LM-1/Auxbox uses the cigarette lighter ground. I think it's possible to wire the ground to body or engine block as innovate recommends it, but I didn't do it that way because I'm too f**king lazy to drag an extra ground wire through the firewall to the engine block.
This is wired into the Auxbox Ch1 +ve terminal.
________________________________________________________________
D11 tps signal
light green OR red/black (again, I counted pins, so I didn't note the colour)
(this is your throttle position sensor output, it's a +ve terminal)
A funny thing happened during this stage, as I unplugged my TPS sensor while setting it, and for got to plug it back in.. I didn't get the near 5V at WOT and I actually thought that new fangled digital multimeter got whacked... I took my old vintage analogue one and tested, no go also..
Then my mech pointed out that I forgot to plug the TPS sensor back in.. kena kaw-kaw from him.. LOL... an unplugged TPS sensor doesn't throw a checklight.. interesting, that one.
Depending on what you set the auxbox to, this can be any of the other 3 channels OTHER than Ch1 and Ch2 (or two, if you wired the thermocouple wire which is too damn short for EGT readings since it needs to be on the headers, which are at the FRONT of the car, as opposed to other with exhaust ports facing the firewall.)
________________________________________________________________
D17 MAP sensor
white (civic)
white/blue(integra)
(Your manifold air pressure sensor. This measures the vaccuum present (and boost, if set in the logworks)
Straightforward, the voltage and PSI values are given by innovate in their ECU schematics on their website. To convert to another format is automatic after you enter the initial value.
________________________________________________________________
D15 IAT sensor
red/yellow
(this is your intake air temp sensor, using the built in logworks and the map sensor, you can calculate volume of air entering the engine.. still unfamiliar with this though, so if a fellow hondarian already manages to do this in logworks, appreciate any help.
It also requires that I measure the resistance of the sensor in 3 different temps, get resistance, find out the load resistor, wire it up, enter the 3 values I got from the test, and that's where I'm stuck. My mech says that 0deg and room temp shouldn't be a problem, but 100deg boiling temp might not be good for the plastic.
So at the moment, this one remains unwired till I get some answers in the Innovate forums.
D13 ECT sensor
Engine coolant temp sensor, or known as 'water-temp' here.
red/white or yellow/blue
Like the IAT, you need to set the voltage increments in logworks with the thermistorcalc app, as the temp versus voltage curve isn't linear. All temp sensors are like that, which is why ECT and IAT sensors will be left for last.
This one, I need to detach the ECT sensor, which is not really located at a convenient location. So leaving this one unwired (for now) as well.
________________________________________________________________
D14 Narrowband O2 signal wire
white or white/red
This is for mounting the Bosch LSU-4 into the muffler O2 bung.. I will not use the narrowband, so the analogue 1 out from the LM1 will go here. Grounding is not sure yet, I'll pull a ground wire to A26 as necessary. after all it's a sub 3V output. I think it's 1.5-2V max thereabouts, but that's from my head, need to refer LM-1 analogue output settings, since the factory defaults for analogue 1 output is for narrowband 02 sensor already.
My only worry for now is that the unconnected 02 heater power might throw a checklight.
________________________________________________________________
A26 Logic ground (this is a -ve terminal) All sensors will be grounded here. There's alternatives like the D22/D21, but the jumper harness I'm using already tapped the ground here, so I'm using that. I'm not sure if grounding it through the body would work, hopefully when I post this in the innovate forums, I might get some answers or corrections.
_________________________________________________________________
Obviously, this is a work in progress, so don't go out and buy one just yet, wait till this is done. :P
Sunway people should sponsor me some dosh for promoting the LM-1/Auxbox combo like this.. :P
Work in progress photoes.. Yes, I'm quite messy when working, which is why my mechanic does the fixing, and why I only study the theories. :P
In this case, I insisted on doing it myself, since it's my own car after all. :P
My mech is way neater than me.. :P
Note I tagged each and every single wire.. I'm so forgetful.. :P
Pictures are clickable for larger image.
Last edited:
