95+ Octane

[PR1MO4130]

hi guys, i've been wanting to ask this question for quite awhile. ..here goes..

have a look at the picture below. It shows 95+Octane at my petrol tank cover... Does it mean i can pump in Ron 95 all this while?

Look forward for your input.

 

[stutzedward]

Hehehe... I take it as 95+ (means must be more than 95 la...) :P

Actually if your car is from USF (local stock) without a single mod, 95 will work.

 

[kaninbu]

mine is without 95+octane

 

[PR1MO4130]

Hehehe... I take it as 95+ (means must be more than 95 la...) :P

Actually if your car is from USF (local stock) without a single mod, 95 will work.

hahaha... i hope not...lets see what others have to say....hehehehe

---------- Post added at 01:47 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 01:45 PM ----------

Hehehe... I take it as 95+ (means must be more than 95 la...) :P

Actually if your car is from USF (local stock) without a single mod, 95 will work.

mine is without 95+octane

perhaps yours is the imported model?

 

[stutzedward]

There are 2 types of Airtreks in Msia. Both are CBU. One however are reconditioned/grey-importer model which are not thru USF. Those are like the Evos and WRXs we see at used car dealers without registration. So most probably yours are those or maybe, the sticker dropped.

 

[kaninbu]

usf imports only new car rite?

 

[stutzedward]

Yes, USF only import new...

 

[AvanT]

hi guys, i've been wanting to ask this question for quite awhile. ..here goes..

have a look at the picture below. It shows 95+Octane at my petrol tank cover... Does it mean i can pump in Ron 95 all this while?

Look forward for your input.

U can use Ron 95.
When our trek's ECU detects any detonation, it will retard the ignition timing, and resume normal timing once it everything is ok. U can easily feel this happening when U're under boost or load. Example: going up a long slope along Karak highway, suddenly the car just feels under-power no matter how much gas U step on it, boost just wouldn't climb. So, if U're a easy driver, spend most time cruising, only accelerate the car occasionally, and doesn't drive the trek like a nut, Ron 95 is sufficient.

On the other hand, if U're the type that drives the trek under boost constantly, then better stick with Ron97.

I've been using Ron95 since day 1. Here are few things U can do to further prevent detonation.

1. Keep your stock air box, replace with a drop-in filter if U want better airflow. Dun recommend open pod air filters, they suck in hot air inside engine compartment.
   
2. Upgrade to a FMIC, the top mount intercooler is a junk, it hardly cools down the intake air. It's exposed to heat soaked under the hood, working more like a heater to me.
   
3. Look for a larger & more efficient turbo. Boosting beyond 0.8bar out of the tiny TD04 is "overworking" it, the tiny snail will only spit out even hotter air. HOT INTAKE AIR TEMP promotes detonation!! Each turbo has its sweet spot, meaning most efficient pressure range. Increasing boost will only get U more HP up to a certain level only.
   
4. Replace the thermostat with a low temp thermostat unit. It will help U "remove engine heat" earlier, keeping the engine operating temp lower. This really works & shows on the coolant temp gauge!!
   
5. Replacing the radiator with a better unit will help too. I'm still using stock ones though, find them sufficient for my needs.
   
6. Thermal coat intake manifold, so that it doesn't conduct engine compartment heat to the air going into the combustion chamber.
   
7. Water or methanol injection. Injecting water or methanol mixture brings down intake air temp tremendously. I'm talking about using a high pressure pump & suitable injector to create mist, not plumbing directly from your wiper reservoir yea...heheehee.

 

[stutzedward]

Seems that my next project SHOULD be FMIC ..... :) Adjustable pulley and Walbro just have to wait.

 

[kaninbu]

actually the real heat is coming from the exhaust manifold and the other left part of the snail.the best way is coat it wif ceramico.5 round in sepang u stil can touch the manifold wif ur barehand!!!the only way i found is the best to reduce engine heat in engine bay.

 

[PR1MO4130]

U can use Ron 95.
When our trek's ECU detects any detonation, it will retard the ignition timing, and resume normal timing once it everything is ok. U can easily feel this happening when U're under boost or load. Example: going up a long slope along Karak highway, suddenly the car just feels under-power no matter how much gas U step on it, boost just wouldn't climb. On the other hand, if U're a easy driver, spend most time cruising, only accelerate the car occasionally, and doesn't drive the trek like a nut, Ron 95 is sufficient.

BUT....if U're the type that drives the trek under boost constantly, then better stick with Ron97.

I've been using Ron95 since day 1. Here are few things U can do to further prevent detonation.

1. Keep your stock air box, replace with a drop-in filter if U want better airflow. Dun recommend open pod air filters, they suck in hot air inside engine compartment.
   
2. Upgrade to a FMIC, the top mount intercooler is a junk, it hardly cools down the intake air. It's exposed to heat soaked under the hood, working more like a heater to me.
   
3. Look for a larger & more efficient turbo. Boosting beyond 0.8bar out of the tiny TD04 is "overworking" it, the tiny snail will only spit out even hotter air. HOT INTAKE AIR TEMP promotes detonation!! Each turbo has its sweet spot, meaning most efficient pressure range. Increasing boost will only get U more HP up to a certain level only.
   
4. Replace the thermostat with a low temp thermostat unit. It will help U "remove engine heat" earlier, keeping the engine operating temp lower. This really works & shows on the coolant temp gauge!!
   
5. Replacing the radiator with a better unit will help too. I'm still using stock ones though, find them sufficient for my needs.
   
6. Thermal coat intake manifold, so that it doesn't conduct engine compartment heat to the air going into the combustion chamber.

You are absolutely correct for this statement "going up a long slope along Karak highway, suddenly the car just feels under-power no matter how much gas U step on it, boost just wouldn't climb." I faced it couple of time, and i just have to floor it to gain speed and momentum.

Anyhow, i have coated my manifold with ceramico (as advised by my mechanic earlier, since the earlier one cracked after 3 years). Now i might want to consider changing the thermostat, and install a drop in filter. See if there are any difference. The FMIC will be my last thing to do since, it is quite a hefty "investment". But for the turbo, I'm not really sure, should i change it? cos I'm not a heavy footer that much. Only speeding on highway mostly.

Can you advise how much roughly the low temp thermostat? Is it just PnP type? No other setting/tweeking required?

Look forward for your input chief.

Thanks

 

[kaninbu]

guys,

car engine is a big air sucker.how to create better air circulation when your car is moving?
lotsa heat problem can be solve by just channel direct air from outside.99% car dun have good air circulation into engine.
hoping the front of the car will not bring more air into engine bay.lotsa restriction for the air to go thru such as grill,condenser,radiator.tats y got stock airbox.but stock airbox got its limit because its a box n not suitable for big turbos.
if wind hits a barrier it will go sideways.law of physic.

raise your hood is for better hot air goin out the engine bay.like most turbo wiras out there.
air scoop for more air enter engine bay.just make sure water dun go into sparkplug area.will cause missfire.
cai like the plastic hose work very well.make sure is has netting to prevent thing/bird enter.
since u coated your hot parts,engine bay should be cooler.

when u use ron95,ecu retard the timing.means low rpm range u feel no power.u exprience a torque dip.need to rev higher.is normal.
for me ron95 is usable when cruizing highway because constant speed.city driving,up hill n other abusing engine condition u need ron97 so ur ecu wont retard the timing then u will have the aceleration.retarded timing will cause engine to be hotter.long run u will have burned plugs n fired piston ring.end up chicken n egg problem.engine bay hotter.dun use ron95 if u can afford ron97.

1.bigger turbo suck more air.make sure is can suck more air freely and has a clear direct passage of air.
2.small turbo small intercooler.not so much lag.is all depends on ur piping size.small piping big turbo also a restriction.
4. just change low temp termostat is poinless if u not using aluminium radiator.the fan controller play a big role.normal trek fan is not running full speed.
5. stock radiator running on td04 is sufficient.is design tat way by mitsubishi.if bigger turbo please upgrade or else u have a crack radiator top within 1st 3 month.
6.the termal coat thing will last u max 4 month then is start harden,crack n drop off.i wrapped my ah wah place until lost count.

 

[stamen]

when u use ron95,ecu retard the timing.means low rpm range u feel no power.u exprience a torque dip.need to rev higher.is normal.
for me ron95 is usable when cruizing highway because constant speed.city driving,up hill n other abusing engine condition u need ron97 so ur ecu wont retard the timing then u will have the aceleration.retarded timing will cause engine to be hotter.long run u will have burned plugs n fired piston ring.end up chicken n egg problem.engine bay hotter.dun use ron95 if u can afford ron97.

fyi bro
even with 98octane, prior to tuning my trek had massive knocks / detonation...

 

[kaninbu]

check ur knock sensor.a bad bearing near the sensor will have similar knocking effect it sends the same frequency as engine knocking.happens to me when my alternator failing.

 

[stamen]

check ur knock sensor.a bad bearing near the sensor will have similar knocking effect it sends the same frequency as engine knocking.happens to me when my alternator failing.

i dont think that is the issue bro.
i've reduced the timing, and now it's all good, i've only seen 1-2 knocks on WOT.

 

[kaninbu]

bro,running on ron98 stil need to retard more then 3-4 degree mean ur not taking in much oxygen.

---------- Post added at 04:40 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:37 PM ----------

timing,a/f ratio,oxygen and octane must be well balance to improve performance.

 

[stutzedward]

run with NOS

 

[stamen]

bro,running on ron98 stil need to retard more then 3-4 degree mean ur not taking in much oxygen.

---------- Post added at 04:40 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:37 PM ----------

timing,a/f ratio,oxygen and octane must be well balance to improve performance.

from what i heard from other guys from here, it's common stock trek to massive knock, doesn't matter which octane we run, always have lots of them.

how do you know/suggest my trek is not taking much o2 bro?

i have zeitronix wideband o2 sensor on my exhaust. from my log runs, showed the other way around, my afr was on lean side and also too much timing. now still a bit lean but not so bad...
hmm... looking at my previous logs and fuel/timing now... i could make it richer here :)
just lazy doing the runs... scared police caught me lol

---------- Post added at 10:01 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:58 PM ----------

run with NOS

no budget bro... get bicycle better... no more knock problem lol

 

[kaninbu]

bro,2 many parameter to say bout ur knocking le.
as long engine in a harmonic tune,can smoke some car price double or triple our trek is fair enauf for me....rite?

---------- Post added at 06:07 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 06:06 PM ----------

run with NOS

is a dream come true sitting in a car fitted wif nos in msia leh...

 

[Dayline668]

Running rich is better then running lean... u risk blowing your motor letting it run lean.