TLG - didnt know u post here in zth
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TLG - didnt know u post here in zth
Sorry. Is this for me?
that was for the threadstarter i believe
Sorry. Is this for me?
TLG is the initials of the threadstarter (his real name).
Keep sharing btw, you got lots of interesting input in this project
I'm anal about these things. That's a lot of varnish on the insides, ever considered doing a full on engine flush?
TLG : I noticed you 'thanked' my post - you probably know this or have your regular choice of brands, but if you're like me and looking for best bang for buck, the CRC engine flush is pretty good and oil seal friendly.
Leonl : if I'm not mistaken, TLG is a purist. I doubt he'll do anything out of the ordinary like FI for the stock engine
When you buy a used car you generally don't get any true indication of how it has been treated. It looks worse than it is I guess as a function of the camera. Neither the camshaft or a cam follower have any wear when I ran my finger over them (scientific I know...)I'm anal about these things. That's a lot of varnish on the insides, ever considered doing a full on engine flush?
Thanks for the kind words - will keep going as time permits!Didn't expect ZTH forummers to have rebuilding or modding thread much.
This is great!
Always read MightyCarMods forums witht he rebuilding threads.
But can't get a Malaysia's insight.
I think I'll go with the PSS9s eventually. The car came with AC Schnitzer lowering springs and while being a little on the soft side it suits daily driving perfectly!The Tein & UUC came with the 2nd M3 I bought. I prefer Bilstein better, but those Tein held up pretty good. Better than the old and tired ones. UUC has the twin canister design also. One things about BMW engine is the power band is all across the RPM. So how is it coming along. What's next?
p/s: I thought your car is red? Did you painted it blue?
Spot on - the bulged on the side pretty soon after I got them (second hand...) so I've put the R-S3s on. Amazing tyre. Quiet and grip really well, even cutting through standing water/rain! Nothing like what I was expecting. My daily commute involves DUKE, Penchala and LDP and I can confirm that they are really quite grippy. Done about 500km on them...Just be careful with the Contis. The side wall are prone to bulging, so do give it a regular check if using. If you have changed to RS-3, my friend's Subaru kaki are using for their track day and loving them....
Thanks!subscribe...keep up the work bro...nice and informative thread...
Hey Tom - been a while. Lots of things have changed on the car since that drive :)Good stuff LG, yours is probably the best E36 M3 I've tasted. Good luck.
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While I have used CRC engine flush before with no side effects, I just don't see the necessity on this car. Mileage is low, cams and followers have no appreciable wear, no sludge etc.TLG : I noticed you 'thanked' my post - you probably know this or have your regular choice of brands, but if you're like me and looking for best bang for buck, the CRC engine flush is pretty good and oil seal friendly.
Leonl : if I'm not mistaken, TLG is a purist. I doubt he'll do anything out of the ordinary like FI for the stock engine
Be careful on engine flush especially some BMW engine. If I remeber correctly, BMW uses Alusil (spelling) material on for their engine to save weight. In return, I heard certain engine oil and cooler will "eat" away that material causing leaks & crack. Also, corroded the water pump impeller. Lots of horror story. Just to be safe, just synthetic oil and change it more frequent is the best insurance.
Good luck, have fun and drive safe.
leon, wanna ask u wats the best oil for e90? Castrol edge 5w40? or any recommended oil?
thanks for the info.
cos Tesco is offering Castrol edge for rm149 for 4L.
so means that I will wait for mobil 1 & grab it when on promotion. do u know which viscosity is best for e90?
When you buy a used car you generally don't get any true indication of how it has been treated. It looks worse than it is I guess as a function of the camera. Neither the camshaft or a cam follower have any wear when I ran my finger over them (scientific I know...)
I don't want to do a flush. I'll just run synthetic oil from here on in, and if there are cleaning abilities in running synthetic oil then the engine will clean itself after a while... :D
I've always done 5k-km oil changes anyway - seems to work as far as keeping the engines going...
Thanks for the kind words - will keep going as time permits!
I think I'll go with the PSS9s eventually. The car came with AC Schnitzer lowering springs and while being a little on the soft side it suits daily driving perfectly!
Spot on - the bulged on the side pretty soon after I got them (second hand...) so I've put the R-S3s on. Amazing tyre. Quiet and grip really well, even cutting through standing water/rain! Nothing like what I was expecting. My daily commute involves DUKE, Penchala and LDP and I can confirm that they are really quite grippy. Done about 500km on them...
Thanks!
Hey Tom - been a while. Lots of things have changed on the car since that drive :)
While I have used CRC engine flush before with no side effects, I just don't see the necessity on this car. Mileage is low, cams and followers have no appreciable wear, no sludge etc.
===
So after the engine bay was painted and the car started again began the labour of love to get the rest of the car painted. This was completely crazy. The car had all sorts of places where paint should not have been, and all sorts of places where paint should have been where it wasn't! LOL
I have always been picky with paint jobs - this time I went with Veng Cheong Spraying Works in Old Town PJ, and Cheong himself committed to doing a complete strip of the car to get it right. By complete strip I mean bumpers, lights, trim pieces full interior, door cards, door hinges, wheels, wiring etc.
So the journey started...
The bumpers were slwwly chipped at and sanded past the Hellrot (Red) paint, past the original Estoril Blue through to the plastic primer (which still stuck to the plastic very well and was difficult to remove!)
Each bumper took about a day or so to clean all the paint off, done cheerfully by this fellow.
Beginning the tear down - all sideglass out at this stage, sideskirts, door handles, trim, lights and so on.
Here you can see the dents in the bonnet which couldn't be removed by the paintless dent repair guys...
Having stripped the car down, the paint was slowly sanded back past the red, past any old filler, then past the Estoril. This takes quite a while and makes a terrible mess! In this shot you can also see how poorly the old clearcoat of the Hellrot paint adhered to the primer - it simply peeled off with a scraper onto the floor before the random orbital was used to remove the rest of it.
Here you can see why a full strip is necessary and where the red paint didn't get in the nooks and crannies.
Thanks for reading, keep the comments coming!
There will always be something faster. We also live in an age where one can easily see 10 different R35's each day, so I've learnt to be content with a level of power that I can handle, and is safely achievable with the car...Purists also have temptations (like me) There are times in my mind, I am thinking "I wish I have a little more power to keep up with that car just past me on the track". The "M" car usually has more than enough for most of us. I am beginning to miss my M3 now :(
Veng Cheong is near the Campbell Soup factory.bro which part in old town u got the car sprayed?
The M3 block is not one of those which wears away and needs liners, that being said I'm happy to just chip at it slowly using 5k-km oil changes. Will probably stick with the Liqui-Moly Race Tech that I've got in it now. RM50 per liter or so through most online sellers on ZTH/LowYat/Mudah.Be careful on engine flush especially some BMW engine. If I remeber correctly, BMW uses Alusil (spelling) material on for their engine to save weight. In return, I heard certain engine oil and cooler will "eat" away that material causing leaks & crack. Also, corroded the water pump impeller. Lots of horror story. Just to be safe, just synthetic oil and change it more frequent is the best insurance.
Good luck, have fun and drive safe.
Interesting. I'm somewhat of a fan of performing used oil analysis - and have done quite a few on the cars over the years. One thing is that you have to stick with the same lab for testing, and its a bit of a PITA to be sending oil all the way to the states just to get a soft-link to a report. I've been using Schaeffer for the last 10 oil changes or so, and Liqui-Moly seems to look good so far, it seems I can stretch the OCI a little bit further but I think I'll just leave it as is.Most of us here use Mobil 1 fully synthetic. For some that "loaded", they use Royal Purple. Good stuff but I think it is like $16 USD a quart. Mobil 1 is about $6 a quart. I change oil regularly, 3K miles max. I prefer to change oil after every track day, autox maybe every other autox.
Running "old" oil is like wearing dirty underwear to me :D
I've tried my fair share of oils over the years with different cars and can safely say that just because it is expensive or "famous" it doesn't mean its good. Some of the cheaper oils, at least in the Malaysian market, work pretty good. Bardahl fully synthetic is one of them that looks good in a UOA, and at RM90 for a 4l bottle isn't expensive either. Some of the other oils which people tout have not been so good on my cars - Q8 etc. Besides how the UOA look theres also the problem of oil temperature. Castrol TWS seems to run a bit hot in my car, RS doesn't seem to hold oil pressure well. All sorts of stories.I think you guys have more good choices in MY. Some of the brand here are "iffy". For example, Redline suppose to be good but heard not too good review sometimes. I just stick to one that good in general, just pick the right weight. I think MY is hot, so 5-40, 10-40 should be good unless some require thicker oil like my old VW 20-50. My Lexus uses 5-30. The rest 5-40 or 10-40.
Sounds so complicated but it is not, maybe just the way I put it.
Yes - he's a cheerful fellow who doesn't seem to shy away from the long monotony of sanding and cleaning!leonl said:At least he looks very happy working on your car
leon, wanna ask u wats the best oil for e90? Castrol edge 5w40? or any recommended oil?
What model is your E90? What is your current OCI? Tesco has some Mobil 1 0W40 on sale at the Kepong Menjalara Tesco outlet. Its the LL01 stuff though.thanks for the info.
cos Tesco is offering Castrol edge for rm149 for 4L.
so means that I will wait for mobil 1 & grab it when on promotion. do u know which viscosity is best for e90?
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