unstable electric after battery relocation

  • See what others are reading now! Try Forums > Current Activity
  • Search function more powerful with google results! Try Search

upontheriversky

Known Member
Senior Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2007
Messages
275
Points
1,528
i just had my battery relocated to the trunk and i could not be sure whether this had caused me electrical unstablity because im noticing small bouncing rpm when signal light is on during idle, the vacuum meter dims when headlight and signal is switched on

my car is not super audio equipped, only brighter PIAA headlamp, and the meter. i have 2 stabilizers and problem still persists

i just talked to a friend who told me i need to get a grounding wire from alternator all the way to negative terminal at the trunk coz i dont have one now, seems i have low alternator charging issue.

the pomen who did the mod only have 1 grounding cable to terminal which connects to the body

any suggestions?
 
upontheriversky: bro, i'm facing the same prob like urs..even i bought new batt, the prob never solved..
 
do a proper grounding in engine bay and pull one big cable from there direct to battery negative terminal....and one at rear chassis...it should be better or solve ur problems
 
Think do as bro huakenny said and that should be good. Can try voltage stabilizer also. Maybe the guy used cheap cables when relocating your battery. If the copper content is low, there will be more resistance and drain your battery harder.
 
Hi Bro,

Did you upgrade to a larger battery?
I did the same for my myvi; in engine bay I used NS40, at the trunk I upgraded to a NS60

STILL the cranking power (after relocation) is poorer than before, even with thick 0 gauge copper wire..

Just to share :)
 
Battery still in good condition??

battery was checked using multimeter at prodrag and it shown battery and charging is good

do a proper grounding in engine bay and pull one big cable from there direct to battery negative terminal....and one at rear chassis...it should be better or solve ur problems

i did, pomen ran one thick 4mm grounding cable from the bay all the way to negative terminal, but thats it. a friend of same car told me to run one cable directly from alternator ground to battery negative terminal, and another ground from battery negative terminal to rear body coz it finally solved his electrical unstable problem after many grounds on the bay didn do much good.

what do u think?

Think do as bro huakenny said and that should be good. Can try voltage stabilizer also. Maybe the guy used cheap cables when relocating your battery. If the copper content is low, there will be more resistance and drain your battery harder.

the positive cable is from welding cable so it should be good enough right? i currently have 2 stablizers and does not change anything

Hi Bro,

Did you upgrade to a larger battery?
I did the same for my myvi; in engine bay I used NS40, at the trunk I upgraded to a NS60

STILL the cranking power (after relocation) is poorer than before, even with thick 0 gauge copper wire..

Just to share :)

i did not upgrade to larger battery since im not on ICE or any high electrical withdrawal system, i dont think battery relocation alone justify for bigger battery if im only using brighter headlamp and a vacuum gauge if wiring is good in the first place, obviously my wiring is bit KO

i just noticed my meter light also dims whenever aircond is switched on..
 
i have changed alternator positive to starter wire to bigger one, i put fuse in the middle just in case. i still got a lag where the lights go really dimmed for few seconds after aircond is switched on and lit up again after but the light intensity got so much better. so here is the thing:

when replaced oem wire to bigger one ive got improvement on overall charging judging by brighter lights and more steady rpm so by right i should get close to max improvement using bigger wire so the "highway" from alternator to battery becomes bigger

is it safe to add another 4awg wire in parallel to existing one? i think guangdao alternator booster is installed the same way if anyone familiar with this product
 
near end 2016 already.
sifu's here can adviced.
A.Can share successful stories in relocation of battery.
B. confirm will face not enough juice to crank the engine. OR
C. 99% of car battery in engine bay since i know there is a car," why bother." :rofl:
 
Top Bottom