ISCV 20V confusion ...clean or not !

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chinozie

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Good Day to all...

I can't remember when actually the idea of cleaning ISCV will help solved idling problem...can't recall...

There are 4 types of ECU controlled ISC system used by Toyota :

1) Stepper motor
2) Rotary solenoid
3) Duty control ACV
4) On-off control VSV

4AGE 20V uses Rotary solenoid :





So here is my question...

After you guys cleaned the ISCV with carb cleaner :

1) Did the idle goes better then previous idling ? for how long ?
2) After clean up , did your idling when crazy ?


need to verify this...as mind went better...but abit difficult to adjust the idling, after loosen the 2 screws, adjust the ISCV itself...clockwise - higher, anticlockwise - lower RPM...
 
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Captain Fast

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i cleaned my ISCV once and it just had a slightly better response when returning to idle which is about 900 rpm instead of around 1k rpm before cleaning. that's all. hope this helps.
 

oily head

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I cleaned my ISCV once, lots of deposit came out.. just like capt fast said. slightly better idling than before..
 

GT'd

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need to verify this...as mind went better...but abit difficult to adjust the idling, after loosen the 2 screws, adjust the ISCV itself...clockwise - higher, anticlockwise - lower RPM...
chin, mine if i adjust that 2 screws...rpm still same, why?
 

Captain Fast

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Can you actually adjust the idling using adjustment screws? Thought the ISCV controls idling? Hope someone can just shed some light on this matter...Don't know much about it as I don't tinker with this as much as my previous Iswara as the ISCV does everything for me so far...
 

wfhan

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To clean or not?? i think is better to clean... why ?
1. AT LEAST u get to disposed of those deposits in there.. it sure look really kotor in the pic of your blog.

2. idling improve or not. maybe/maybe not, but at least if cleaned, we r sure that the dirty deposit that not supposed to be there r being disposed of.. right?

just my 2 cent.
 

chinozie

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GT'd and Captain Fast - heeee...my typo error :banghead:...not adjust the screw...loosen the screw, the move the ISCV... :wavey:

ISCV stepper motor...ECU controlled ISCV based on various input by the sensors...if the sensors giving problem, thus it may effect the idling...for SVT for example...AFM faulty module...or even your water temp faulty, it will sure idli up high thinking this it is still a cold start...


wfhan - the reason I've asked this, is because, some said ISCV can't be clean (with carb cleaner, due to the oil in the internal parts )...after cleaning, idling can't be adjust anymore...change into a better one without cleaning it with carb cleaner...idling went better...

that's why i'm asking you guys about your expierience ...

but based on the pics...ISC regulates the air by controlling the valve shaft...but not too sure how it communicates amongs the parts inside...

that's what we need to discuss... :smokin: :smokin:
 

wfhan

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......

wfhan - the reason I've asked this, is because, some said ISCV can't be clean (with carb cleaner, due to the oil in the internal parts )...after cleaning, idling can't be adjust anymore...change into a better one without cleaning it with carb cleaner...idling went better...
....
oooh.. i not sure.. but i've cleaned mine by ah ngah.... so far.. already 6 months until now my idling all normal ..
 
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chinozie

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ahhaaa...so far no problem right...owh...you clean it at "gemuk"... :rofl:

orait...thanx for the feedback...

keep it coming...
 

tank_AE92

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Just tried to clean the ISCV, hahaha...

The ideling just find now!!!
 

wfhan

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GT'd and Captain Fast - heeee...my typo error :banghead:...not adjust the screw...loosen the screw, the move the ISCV... :wavey:

ISCV stepper motor...ECU controlled ISCV based on various input by the sensors...if the sensors giving problem, thus it may effect the idling...for SVT for example...AFM faulty module...or even your water temp faulty, it will sure idli up high thinking this it is still a cold start...


wfhan - the reason I've asked this, is because, some said ISCV can't be clean (with carb cleaner, due to the oil in the internal parts )...after cleaning, idling can't be adjust anymore...change into a better one without cleaning it with carb cleaner...idling went better...

that's why i'm asking you guys about your expierience ...

but based on the pics...ISC regulates the air by controlling the valve shaft...but not too sure how it communicates amongs the parts inside...

that's what we need to discuss... :smokin: :smokin:
ahhaaa...so far no problem right...owh...you clean it at "gemuk"... :rofl:

orait...thanx for the feedback...

keep it coming...
ya...at fatty there. so far already few months, all system are normals.
 

netmatrix

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Chinozie u are NOT supposed to clean the sensor with carb cleaner. You should use CONTACT CLEANER, which is specified for electrical sensors. Most carb cleaners leave deposits. I know it is not oxygen sensor but if you work on electronics you should use contact cleaner.
 

AE80TypeD

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im not sure that i understand the question correctly, so pardon my first answer attempt if it sounds dumb & off topic.

if u're wondering what kind of signal or sensor inputs triggers the operation for the ISCV (telling it to open/close); that is currently out of my jurisdiction. if however u're wondering how the valve physically works, i could give u the description as according to what my mechanic taught me. i just had an education abt my own ISCV today when it was found out to be jammed. its not "working" anymore leaving my idle very high permanently. i THINK its the same as saying my ISCV is stuck at the "load" position.

these are the symptoms as i experienced them. i welcome corrections & further education if my diagnostics skills are wrong:

- morning start idle become very low, so low the engine is as good as dead. ~500RPM. Funny thing is, if say an older car with an auto-choke gets it stuck open, idling shud be damn high rite?
- after warm up, normal running temp the idle stays too damn high, 1800RPM.

mechanic's explanation so far: the valve is stuck open like an open auto-choke; giving too much air bypassing the throttles. if that is the case, in my logic even morning cold start the idle RPM shud jump sky high (at least higher than normal healthy 4AGs). is the fuel delivered during cold start different than normal operations or is it just the resistance of a cold engine not yet expanded by heat?

that said, u can be sure that my mech was right in that my ISCV has jammed. this is bcoz i brought along a spare unit & we opened both up. he showed me how the thing works & the one on my motor does not turn anymore. the only question still remaining is why my 2 symptoms are not consistent with 1 faulty condition.

again, if u want me to share what i know abt how the ISCV physically works, just drop a reply. i dont wanna tell the story now bcoz i dont know if its what ure looking for & also bcoz i havent taken pictures. signal, sensor or ECU wise, i oso dunno. very dumbass on that part, sorry :(
 

jaist150

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hi bro. i use blacktop engine to my st150 corona. i have a problem with ISCV. got bad idling when u push hard the engine, and when stop in D gear, it sounds like the engine going to stop. firstly, i clean the throttle body, but still had a problem. then, i clean the ISCV and still had a same problem. and then, a buy a ISCV from chop shop and the idling got worse. the rpm at 1500. but when switch on the air cond, rpm drop. so put back the original sensor back. still had the bad idling. so what your opinion about it?
 

chinozie

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netmatrix - i believed ISCV is not a sensor...it regulates air by controlled "pintle valve"...and it consist 4 electricals, not electronic items -> stator coils, magnetic coil, a valve and valve shaft...will it efected by curb cleaner ??? it's a mechanical stuff...controlled by ECU...

but why some ppl clean it and it works...
to add into confusion, some mech said you can't clean it... :banghead:

AE80TypeD - it's not dumb...but it was really clever of you...

ECU will controll the valve by grounding the four electrical stator coils...
read it through here... !!!

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h26.pdf
 

AE80TypeD

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Wow..... .... ....... *blur*

even if u say so... now with that PDF link u gave, i still feel dumb. but it does save me a LOT of typing; i dont have to explain the ISCV using kampung language wahahahahaha. Seriously bro, compared to that PDF, my description wouldve been really lame =.=" . thank you for the research, its really good info.

and yes, with my personal tinkering n close inspection of the ISCV unit itself, there is totally NO problem spraying a cleaner fluid into the ISCV cavity as far as harming electronics is concerned. As described by autoshop101, the "valve" itself is "twisted" (turned is more accurate, becoz no actual twisting action is involved) by applying an electromagnetic field to a cylindrical thing protruding from the valve casing itself. the electromotor is totally isolated & even separable from the aluminium valve casing, so there is no issue of any electronics being exposed to carbon cleaner etc. besides, it is not even electronic to begin with, the socket from the ECU only supplies a signal to determine the polarity of the magnetic field in order to set the pintle valve to a correct aperture.

as long as the cleaner sprayed inside is not some kind of industrial strength chemical like the red ones some car washes use, im really convinced there is no problem with cleaning ur ISCV. as for having any effect in idling or performance by doing so, that is debatable. im not saying there's no use cleaning it, the fact is usually different car different case. however, seeing that i ended up with a jammed pintle valve myself, perhaps it is bcoz i never cleaned the thing & its stuck with carbon deposits? wakakaka.

Wallahualam (only god knows) :biggrin: :driver:

Bump:


This is the ISCV unit from a typical 20V 4AGE. Both SVT & BT uses the same type, altho i cannot say if the part numbers are the same, bcoz i havent compared those :P



The ISCV with the magnetic servomotor screws removed. I noticed from earlier posts that some of u are already aware that the servomotor can be "adjusted" slightly after loosening both these screws. the body of the valve casing & the slightly elongated bolt holes does suggest an allowance for moving the servomotor. one interesting thing is, even without the socket connected while idling, the servomotor has a pre-"loaded" magnetic force. when i left the ISC pintle valve fully closed (low idle) and put the magnetic servomotor back in its place, the idle went up slightly, showing that the polarity of the idle magnets are already set to open the ISCV slightly. once i have the magnet back in place AND reconnected the socket, the idle shot way up (dunno what my ECU is thinking... cacat oledy :bawling:)



The pintle valve cylindrical link & the inner view of the magnetoservomotor (lol redneck science term, sorry).



A closer view of the outside linkage to the pintle valve. this assembly is not spring loaded, but when the engine is idling, the vacuum pressure keeps it in the almost closed position (lowest idle speed possible). the range of motion is only about 90deg, makes me wonder how fine the signals must be in order to have 125 positions of air opening :hmmmm:

Therefore this is the metal where the electromagnetic force is applied by the servomotor. The strength and/or polarity changes in the field signaled by the ECU "turns" & "holds" this linkage & consequently the pintle valve to the necessary level of air opening.



Close up view of the magnets inside the servomotor (not its actual name, i make this shit up can u believe it? LOL). As ive said in a previous reply, this unit has a passive magnet even b4 the ECU socket is connected. it affects the idle valve opening even b4 any electrical signals pass thru. So as u can see from here, there are no exposed electronics to be harmed by any type of cleaners. The coils etc are safely enclosed in this solid plastic block which i think is not even repairable. Simply have to replace if this thing goes.

Hope this gives a better insight on the inner workings of the humble ISCV.
 
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