Blacktop ECU - missing info in the service manual

[levin818]

There are 2 pins at a BT M/T ECU that physically get connected but did not inform in the service manual. For those who are messing yourself with the wiring, i hope this info is useful for you.

The "missing" 2 pins are:
CCO - Exhaust air Temperature Sensor
EGW - Exhaust Temperature Warning Lamp

 

[me2kimi]

Sifu, is it necessary to connect those 2 pin when convert from SVT wiring?
Before this i though CCO is outside air temp coz my engine got a sensor between bumper and radiator.
BTW, do you have complete pinout for A/T version?

 

[levin818]

me2kimi, me not sifu ler. All real sifu already graduated with Master and upgraded to FR car...
I always believe that all sensors has its specific function, and they may safe our life at critical hour. So please connect this 2 pins.
I'm not sure what type of the sensor that attach at the bumper. But defenately not monitor by the ECU directly. Perhaps its for A/C controller to monitor the outside temp, i guess.
I have yet to come out the complete pin-out for A/T. However, considering that SVT A/T is more faster than BT A/T so i'm doubt who will want to work on their SVT wiring and "down grade" to BT.

 

[me2kimi]

Hehe. Using map way lot better than afm. I like ur thinking bro. Same as me. I also made a converter for the ecu coz do not want mess the wiring. Anytime can revert back to SVT.
BTW, where did u get the converter?

 

[levin818]

I make the converter by myself. It allow me to plug and play BT ECU and run with MAP in within 5 min. I have try resolve the O2 problem by supplying a 1V to OX+ so that the ECU can read the signal at OX. It works very well at low load but not at high load/WOT due to difference in HT signal between SVT and BT. So my car now, sometimes fast, sometimes slow... To resolve this problem, the only way is to handle the HT signal seperately. I am now working on it... very close to the solution hehe..

 

[me2kimi]

exactly same as what I did bro. Just yours lot nicer and clean work than mine. But
1 more question bro, where did you get the 22 pin ecu socket?

---------- Post added at 04:52 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:52 PM ----------

exactly same as what I did bro. Just yours lot nicer and clean work than mine. But
1 more question bro, where did you get the 22 pin ecu socket?

 

[levin818]

The socket was removed from an unknown ECU that bought from h/c. It cost me around 200 together with the plugs.

 

[me2kimi]

Bro, is your IAT is in the picture or not?

 

[levin818]

No the IAT wasn't shown in the picture. For temperorily testing purpose, i "borrow" the IAT from the AFM. As you can see the 2 wires in the picture, that ended with black and Red sleeve, will be plug into the AFM's socket.
When the HT support circuit is completed, i will then plant in the BT's IAT at a proper location.

 

[me2kimi]

Why dont you just use blacktop O2 sensor?

 

[levin818]

Yes on of the easiest way is to use BT O2 sensor (with minor mod). But thinking of which, Titania O2 sensor has faster response, shorter warm up time (only 15sec) and longer lifespan, i think its worth to keep it. Also i want something 100% plug and play

 

[me2kimi]

Since I also kept my ori sensor, would you mind to make an extra circuit for me? hehe
Wanna try it also

 

[levin818]

sure when prototype running successfully i'll make you one :)

 

[me2kimi]

Thanks in advance bro

 

[me2kimi]

bro, can we just supply 1 volt to the O2 sensor? is it can work?

 

[levin818]

Yes it will work if you supply 1V to OX+. However the heating method for the heater are difference between SVT and BT ECU and will affect the performance of Titania O2 sensor.
SVT --> heat up the Titania O2 sensor with PWM. This is to keep the heater's temperature at a constant level. At this temperature, Titania O2 sensor works very well.
BT --> heat up the Zirconia O2 sensor with either turn ON or turn OFF the heater. It turns ON the heater at idling/low load, and turn OFF the heater at high load.
So if you run Titania O2 sensor with BT ECU, the O2 sensor will only deliver signal at idling/low load. At high load, when the ECU turn OFF the heater, the signal will gradually missing.
And since the BT ECU didn't control the heater's temperature, there will be a situation that the Titania O2 sensor will be over heated and may shorten its lifespan. Therefore, unless you have a seperate PWM circuit to support the Titania O2 sensor, otherwise never run your Titania O2 sensor with BT ECU.

 

[me2kimi]

wow, now I understand how it work. So I guess currently you are designing PWM circuit for the titania right?

 

[otismummum]

Wong , you really do research for the 20V. haha keep up the good job.

 

[olskool]

Hi Guys,

Sorry to go off track a bit but have any of you experienced higher idling due to lower water temp when a/c is on? It's only happening after I switched to blk top 5sp ecu. I'm using a silvertop.

 

[levin818]

High idling? Could it be your TPS too advance? I guess if a vacuum hose left unplug will afect the idling as well, even though its running with MAP.

---------- Post added at 11:09 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:07 PM ----------

wow, now I understand how it work. So I guess currently you are designing PWM circuit for the titania right?

Still under design... paper still blank...

Wong , you really do research for the 20V. haha keep up the good job.

Yeah Danny, research for an old engine, not cost effective at all but still want to do it.