If like that, yearly need overhaul......im in boost whenever i can, where ever i can...the shop i buy stuff and tune said i abuse the engine..hahaha
If like that, yearly need overhaul......im in boost whenever i can, where ever i can...the shop i buy stuff and tune said i abuse the engine..hahaha
Wow that's a damn close call for the crankwalk case. What oil you using though? Did you check your crankshaft for damage on the damaged face? Last time I kena my 4g18 for unknown reason it started to crankwalk but by the time i opened up the sump it was too late, the bearing grind until almost nothing and the crankshaft itself is scored beyond repair, had to purchase another crankshaft. Your clutch didn't start to feel weird though from the crank walk? Also what oil are you using?Here are some new update..
Apparently 2nd stage started earlier..which is good because im facing 'crankwalk' and past week, it seems like my engine 'makan minyak'..at this point im out of EO to topup so decided to send in for rebuild.
this is 2nd time engine being strip..1st time after purchase, the engine was at 11xk km, doing top overhaul, this is 2nd time for rebuild after 3xk on the road...
intake port...soon will go through stage1 PnP...97 fuel contain food coloring?..haha
inspecting the head..everything is fine and in order..using good EO pays off
off with the head...suprisingly less carbon buildup and quite clean compare to those used piston selling at mudah/fb group.
Now the short block/bottom part..honestly, abit kecewa not getting jackpot like our friend nightstalker..hahaha..
This is crank walk, eating the main bearing away, one side thick, another side thin and sharp as knife.
affecting other section too
took out the conrod and piston. luckily, conrod bearing still intact and didn't turn/shift..conrod still straight and no bend...at first glance all 4 piston and its ring looks fine
after wipe off the oil, i found out the cause of engine 'makan minyak'. Piston 1,2,3 had its ring land crack
but piston 3 damaged the worse, chipped off while wiping off the oil from piston
the cause for ring land to crack?
i suspect metal fatigue. car has been driven by jap owner for 11xk, once i plug in my perdana and play with it, another 3xkm. probably previous owner didnt do any overhaul.
or
upper ring land crack is not due to engine oil, it is because of fuel. looking at the piston picture, fuel supply should be suffice. probably recent week it started to fail .
hahaha...ask twice on oil. after transplant i use liqui moly synthoil race tech gt1, then after look at some youtube load test, friction is high and switch to 4100 15 50w, which has lower friction. crankshaft spare from damage, luckily. clutch do felt 'light' and sometime hard to engage gear even press till firewall..hahahaWow that's a damn close call for the crankwalk case. What oil you using though? Did you check your crankshaft for damage on the damaged face? Last time I kena my 4g18 for unknown reason it started to crankwalk but by the time i opened up the sump it was too late, the bearing grind until almost nothing and the crankshaft itself is scored beyond repair, had to purchase another crankshaft. Your clutch didn't start to feel weird though from the crank walk? Also what oil are you using?
No idea what jackpot you expecting to find when you open up the oil sump haha. Mine is because RS engine and gearbx ada LSD dapat jackpot hehe
And the piston ring land cracking is almost definitely tuning problem. Ring land cracking is usually a tell-tale sign of knock. Your engine is it completely stock or you had it up boost/tuned with e-manage etc? Could either be your ignition timing too advanced during boosting or for some reason your engine might be running lean. I would suggest you to invest in an AEM X-Series Wideband gauge/sensor which is around rm1000 or so as an essential monitor. What pistons do you plan to replace it with? I heard a common cheap upgrade is a 1jz piston if not mistaken.
Cheers and all the best to your build!
Hahahahhaa whoops. Short term memory loss huhu. Yeah you pakai standalone, so I would say pretty confidently it's the problem with your tune. If you don't mind me asking, who was your tuner? Main api means what? You got launch control/flat shift enabled? If you do it occasionally it shouldn't cause much problem kot depending on how aggressive it is setup, but it CAN cause damage in certain scenario. My 4g18t grenaded pretty spectacularly while I was on my rolling launch control where the ignition went to like -20deg retard at 5000rpm full throttle 1.2bar, one of the pistons decided to say bye bye. But other than that self destructing piston, the other pistons were actually perfectly fine. What I mean by your tune problem is your ignition map, it may had been too aggressive(too much advance) at certain point of the map, either that or your 'distributor', more accurately known as a crank/cam sensor which can be adjusted on the earlier generation Mitsu engines, might had been advanced inadvertently which would throw your base timing off and advance the whole map in real life. How much boost you were running?hahaha...ask twice on oil. after transplant i use liqui moly synthoil race tech gt1, then after look at some youtube load test, friction is high and switch to 4100 15 50w, which has lower friction. crankshaft spare from damage, luckily. clutch do felt 'light' and sometime hard to engage gear even press till firewall..hahaha
internal engine are stock. using link evo123. is main api = ignition timing? my mech did mention the spot on piston is due to 'api tinggi', and he said if tuner tune mostly on ignition, any piston can break. Probably i need to find new tuner. I have scg1 innnovate to monitor afr. On boost, afr is around 11-12. 1jz is common but not reliable. require to skim the conrod due to jz piston design and my mech tried. Doesnt last long. Just using other mitsu oversize piston, which my mech recommend and proven on strip and street, since the block need to rebore.
Hahahahhaa whoops. Short term memory loss huhu. Yeah you pakai standalone, so I would say pretty confidently it's the problem with your tune. If you don't mind me asking, who was your tuner? Main api means what? You got launch control/flat shift enabled? If you do it occasionally it shouldn't cause much problem kot depending on how aggressive it is setup, but it CAN cause damage in certain scenario. My 4g18t grenaded pretty spectacularly while I was on my rolling launch control where the ignition went to like -20deg retard at 5000rpm full throttle 1.2bar, one of the pistons decided to say bye bye. But other than that self destructing piston, the other pistons were actually perfectly fine. What I mean by your tune problem is your ignition map, it may had been too aggressive(too much advance) at certain point of the map, either that or your 'distributor', more accurately known as a crank/cam sensor which can be adjusted on the earlier generation Mitsu engines, might had been advanced inadvertently which would throw your base timing off and advance the whole map in real life. How much boost you were running?
Yeah, that and the ECU should be adjusted together to make sure the base timing is correct, meaning if the ecu request 10deg it is actually 10deg. But it could be possible that AFTER the tune someone may had messed with it and altered the position and thus, the overall timing calibration, making the ecu thinking it's firing at 10deg but it might actually be firing at 15deg. I won't know what is 'main api' lorr god knows what rojak term is that, I only know proper English term saja but from his description yeah probably meaning too advance ignition timing causing knock. You're not running particularly high boost either, your piston ring lands really shouldn't had cracked so prematurely. Would definitely recommend to change tuner. Can recommend you try Rahmat @ RNR Autosport or Thomas @ GT Auto. These 2 tuners I trust them and they really know in depth on what they are doing. My 4g18t lasted for quite a decent amount of time before it self destructed, and survived Sepang, countless Genting trips and 1.2bar boost, occasionally hitting 1.3bar, with EGT occasionally hitting 950c as well.hahaha..i thought u know main api means wat..for now i assume it as ignition timing. No, i didnt have and launch control or flat shift enable. Tuner is from the shop calvin/Kevin iinm from ken racing. only 0.7(daily) and 1 bar (weekend). yea, the distributor can be adjust but wouldnt the tuner check that before tune?...i was busy video recording first 30min on dyno. hahaha
I kept my standard boost at 0.6. My mechanic mentioned boosting higher like to 1 and 1 plus definitely more chance of higher wear rate......lolhahaha..i thought u know main api means wat..for now i assume it as ignition timing. No, i didnt have and launch control or flat shift enable. Tuner is from the shop calvin/Kevin iinm from ken racing. only 0.7(daily) and 1 bar (weekend). yea, the distributor can be adjust but wouldnt the tuner check that before tune?...i was busy video recording first 30min on dyno. hahaha
30k or 300k?im in boost whenever i can, where ever i can...the shop i buy stuff and tune said i abuse the engine..hahaha
main api in away ecu signal send to power tr and coil<<--ring any bell?Yeah, that and the ECU should be adjusted together to make sure the base timing is correct, meaning if the ecu request 10deg it is actually 10deg. But it could be possible that AFTER the tune someone may had messed with it and altered the position and thus, the overall timing calibration, making the ecu thinking it's firing at 10deg but it might actually be firing at 15deg. I won't know what is 'main api' lorr god knows what rojak term is that, I only know proper English term saja but from his description yeah probably meaning too advance ignition timing causing knock. You're not running particularly high boost either, your piston ring lands really shouldn't had cracked so prematurely. Would definitely recommend to change tuner. Can recommend you try Rahmat @ RNR Autosport or Thomas @ GT Auto. These 2 tuners I trust them and they really know in depth on what they are doing. My 4g18t lasted for quite a decent amount of time before it self destructed, and survived Sepang, countless Genting trips and 1.2bar boost, occasionally hitting 1.3bar, with EGT occasionally hitting 950c as well.
And also, before the final version of my 4g18t, when I was running stock pistons, I cracked the ring lands and melted a small part of the piston as well due to using a crude reflash method to run the engine, which worked but wasn't really meant for high boost. And shortly after I rebuilt my engine after that, with a very rough base map tune, my friend took my car for a spin chasing Volkswagens and when he came back my breather hose was smoking, tore down the engine again and found out the ring lands had cracked as well, all of these was definitely due to knock. Would also suggest you go take your piston and go knock on the Ken Racing guy's head.
yup.. anything beyond stock setup..there will be chain reaction.I kept my standard boost at 0.6. My mechanic mentioned boosting higher like to 1 and 1 plus definitely more chance of higher wear rate......lol
3xk km. conversion was done about 1 year 8 month ago30k or 300k?
main api in away ecu signal send to power tr and coil<<--ring any bell?
my mech adjust the distributor last time when using stock ecu and 1 bar setup...after tune, didnt touch the distributor. yea...found a tuner abg mie charade...not sure u know or not. hopefully all is well hahaha..feedback from machine shop, crank cant be use..hahaha..
yup.. anything beyond stock setup..there will be chain reaction.
3xk km. conversion was done about 1 year 8 month ago
Yea...most mech i asked mention the same thing...hahahawow thats quick...
i would say most likely your ignition a.k.a api too advanced...
Yea...most mech i asked mention the same thing...hahaha
Probably gonna go to the same tuner because the shop will setup all trigger switch and wiring for the setup im interested in. Gonna advice him on setting distributor back to default.
Anyway, im pretty sure 70% my crank walk due to excessive clamping force of my pressure plate. Rated 250% more than oem
will post up picture in comparison the spring between exed 3 puck pressure plate vs cc stage4 pressure plate. Spring mcm lori punya
Didn't expect rated that high.. Hahaha.. Looks black n shinywhy so hard clutch when u were driving on the street...
exedy heavy duty clutch cover with 3puck/4puck/semi metallic plate is enough for below 400whp application
It was stock to begin with.. Only top overhaul were done before transplant..Your mech control the bearing tolerances properly or not ?