Toyo T1R vs Goodyear Eagle F1 Directional 5

[vr2turbo]

yakah...i no join TTA wo...who had join the TTA,borrow the ticket to get 20% discount....
i went to the shop b4,he say must show the ticket ><

Can try this place posted by bro. EG9.......
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/wheel-and-tyre/300113-federal-rsr-10.html

 

[valancehing]

wokay~~thx for the infor~~

 

[vr2turbo]

you are welcome.....

 

[spoon civic]

What are your priorities? If aquaplaning resistance the the T1-R will be better. It's pattern resembles the older GY F1 GS-D3 which was the best aquaplaning resistance tyres to date. However with more grooves then rubber and having good aquaplaning resistance, the dry grip suffers because of less rubber contact which is needed in dry grip.
Therefore if into dry drip, maybe even wet grip the F1-D5 should be better. Some have used and feedback is close to PS3. Some even mention better then PS3.

for me,T1R gud for wet and dry...and can launch around 4.5k rpm when the tyre new..when use about 50%..3.8k rpm can grip,but higher the tyre will spin highly...

 

[vr2turbo]

Yup, for me when slightly worn cannot take wet handling, and sidewall a bit too soft.....

 

[bul]

Try the GSD 5 la. I am using it now, grippy both wet and dry. On a 215/40/17..

 

[6UE5t]

Just bought the F1 D5 in sizes 215/50/17 (fr) & 245/45/17 (rr), the rating is 300/AA/A. So far so good, pretty comfortable but haven't really give it a good go yet, will report later after about 500km.

 

[WGR2233]

Good Year F1 D5 is a good tyre..Mine with 225/45/17 for my Gti...No regret at all..Last time I bought rm 398/pcs..later on rm 440/pcs..

 

[vr2turbo]

Just bought the F1 D5 in sizes 215/50/17 (fr) & 245/45/17 (rr), the rating is 300/AA/A. So far so good, pretty comfortable but haven't really give it a good go yet, will report later after about 500km.

Wah! your fr and rr big difference.....215 and 245 size....

 

[valancehing]

FR Ride ma~~

 

[vr2turbo]

FR Ride ma~~

Yah! but cannot do rotation. Last time got one member on a beemer cannot finish his rear tyres, front change a few times already.

 

[valancehing]

i also change front twice,rear still alot, last week just change 205/50/15 RSR,
existing Kumho ku36 put at front...

 

[6UE5t]

Wah! your fr and rr big difference.....215 and 245 size....

Yeah, cuz it's RWD car and using staggered rims, fr17x7.5 & rr17x8.5. My driving skill to counter oversteer is also poor so this way hopefully would be easier for me. :)
I actually was contemplating between 215/50 or 225/50 but then there's no 225/50 available there. More over after test fitting it to the car, it already looks perfectly flush with the fender line.

---------- Post added at 09:11 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:06 PM ----------

Yah! but cannot do rotation. Last time got one member on a beemer cannot finish his rear tyres, front change a few times already.

Yea, that's the main downside, cannot do rotation at all. Initially was aiming to get asymetrical ones like Michelin PS3, Conti CS3, Yokohama Advan Sport, Toyo T1S but they all seem more expensive for that same spec and the shop only has Michelin & GY.

Well your friend need to do a lot more burn out and drifting then! :D

---------- Post added at 09:14 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:11 PM ----------

i also change front twice,rear still alot, last week just change 205/50/15 RSR,
existing Kumho ku36 put at front...

If you use the same sizes, you should at least do rotation in every 10K km between front/rear so they would wear out more evenly.

 

[vr2turbo]

Yeah, cuz it's RWD car and using staggered rims, fr17x7.5 & rr17x8.5. My driving skill to counter oversteer is also poor so this way hopefully would be easier for me. :)
I actually was contemplating between 215/50 or 225/50 but then there's no 225/50 available there. More over after test fitting it to the car, it already looks perfectly flush with the fender line.

Yea, that's the main downside, cannot do rotation at all. Initially was aiming to get asymetrical ones like Michelin PS3, Conti CS3, Yokohama Advan Sport, Toyo T1S but they all seem more expensive for that same spec and the shop only has Michelin & GY.

Well your friend need to do a lot more burn out and drifting then! :D

With 245 size in the rears, rain time also have to drive slower as it can aquaplane easily.

The Toyo model for Asymmetric is the T-1 Sport. A lot may not know, but there is actually a T-1S model before T-1R, which is directional.

His beemer if not mistaken, daily ride, not for play....

 

[6UE5t]

With 245 size in the rears, rain time also have to drive slower as it can aquaplane easily.

The Toyo model for Asymmetric is the T-1 Sport. A lot may not know, but there is actually a T-1S model before T-1R, which is directional.

His beemer if not mistaken, daily ride, not for play....

Sure in the wet have to be careful, don't pretend to be Ayrton Senna! :D Hopefully the D5 directional pattern will still make it relatively good in the wet though.

Yeah, I meant the T1 Sport actually.

Daily ride can also for play a bit lah. :D
Unfortunately for poor man like me, my daily ride is also my only playing tool.

 

[vr2turbo]

Sure in the wet have to be careful, don't pretend to be Ayrton Senna! :D Hopefully the D5 directional pattern will still make it relatively good in the wet though.

Yeah, I meant the T1 Sport actually.

Daily ride can also for play a bit lah. :D
Unfortunately for poor man like me, my daily ride is also my only playing tool.

F1 D5 are not bad, trial them at GY tyre launch in Proton circuit, but short one only in wet and dry slalom. High speed circuit, only get to sit as passenger , but going at 140kph the driver serve at the slalom and it behave well, Car was the Civic.... What I meant earlier was because 245 size rear very broad and may aquaplane easier then those running 215...
If have the chance can try the Asy2, but for front 215/50 they don't have, maybe can try 225/45R17
Currently fitted GT Radial Champiro HPY on my ride, so far not bad. Performance wise feel promising in the dry. Wet have not test yet....

Likewise, my daily ride also my play tool.....

 

[valancehing]

If you use the same sizes, you should at least do rotation in every 10K km between front/rear so they would wear out more evenly.

Wish to do that,but after calculate actually is not much worth,
1st time i bough 4pcs kumho ku36,
front use 15k km botak jor,rear Ku36 (still look like new)
then i buy another 2pcs Bridgestone RE001
after 10k at front RE001 , 25k km at rear Ku36(70%?)
would u still swap it???
every time swap maybe need to do balancing or allighment. normal charge will be 20-30
swap few times then price may around 100++
y dont save the swap money ??

so i come out a poor man concept , Front use normal tyre, rear use semi slick..

after i wait the RE001 28k km botak, ,the rear Ku36 after 43k km still habe 50%+- thread
i know is worth to do that...

now setting is fron ku36, rear Federal RSR....
maybe next will try Federal SS

 

[vr2turbo]

Wish to do that,but after calculate actually is not much worth,
1st time i bough 4pcs kumho ku36,
front use 15k km botak jor,rear Ku36 (still look like new)
then i buy another 2pcs Bridgestone RE001
after 10k at front RE001 , 25k km at rear Ku36(70%?)
would u still swap it???
every time swap maybe need to do balancing or allighment. normal charge will be 20-30
swap few times then price may around 100++
y dont save the swap money ??

so i come out a poor man concept , Front use normal tyre, rear use semi slick..

after i wait the RE001 28k km botak, ,the rear Ku36 after 43k km still habe 50%+- thread
i know is worth to do that...

now setting is fron ku36, rear Federal RSR....
maybe next will try Federal SS

You can rotate, but not every 10K km as mentioned, but when change tyres time. I do that when using two tyre change method. Means putting new tyres in the rear and old tyres from rear to front. This way the old tyres can be worn off with use. If keep tyres in the rear all the time, tyre may get too old, rubber harden and crack and may lose traction....

 

[6UE5t]

Wish to do that,but after calculate actually is not much worth,
1st time i bough 4pcs kumho ku36,
front use 15k km botak jor,rear Ku36 (still look like new)
then i buy another 2pcs Bridgestone RE001
after 10k at front RE001 , 25k km at rear Ku36(70%?)
would u still swap it???
every time swap maybe need to do balancing or allighment. normal charge will be 20-30
swap few times then price may around 100++
y dont save the swap money ??

so i come out a poor man concept , Front use normal tyre, rear use semi slick..

after i wait the RE001 28k km botak, ,the rear Ku36 after 43k km still habe 50%+- thread
i know is worth to do that...

now setting is fron ku36, rear Federal RSR....
maybe next will try Federal SS

You can rotate, but not every 10K km as mentioned, but when change tyres time. I do that when using two tyre change method. Means putting new tyres in the rear and old tyres from rear to front. This way the old tyres can be worn off with use. If keep tyres in the rear all the time, tyre may get too old, rubber harden and crack and may lose traction....

I much prefer using the same tyres at the same age on all 4 corners so the behavior stays consistent, so I make the effort to try even out the wear, hence the 10K rotation. Yes you need to spend a little to rotate, but not necessarily have to do alignment and balancing. You can try it out first and only if it doesn't drive as good then you do those. I personally very seldom do balancing & alignment when rotating tires. Most workshops will tell you it's a must but don't believe everything the shops tell you cuz they also want to make money out of you.
Well if you don't want to rotate often then at least do as suggested by VR2turbo so the rear tyres would not get too old and dangerous.

 

[vr2turbo]

I much prefer using the same tyres at the same age on all 4 corners so the behavior stays consistent, so I make the effort to try even out the wear, hence the 10K rotation. Yes you need to spend a little to rotate, but not necessarily have to do alignment and balancing. You can try it out first and only if it doesn't drive as good then you do those. I personally very seldom do balancing & alignment when rotating tires. Most workshops will tell you it's a must but don't believe everything the shops tell you cuz they also want to make money out of you.
Well if you don't want to rotate often then at least do as suggested by VR2turbo so the rear tyres would not get too old and dangerous.

You are right, most of the time the tyre shop will insist you re-balance the wheels and re-align also, so they can charge more. If the slightly worn front wheels are still in balance, transferring them to the rears won't be a problem and with the hardly worn rears, the balancing also should be intact unless some weight flew off. Do the balancing only if you feel they are unbalanced. Of course all these must be done with off wheel balancing and not on wheel. If always have balancing problem, probably need to look at fitting a center cone.
For alignment, just check the tyre wear, if they are wearing evenly, also do not need to do alignment every time.....
Well, for 2 tyre or 4 tyre change method, it is up to the individual. Both have pros and cons.
Just want to ask, if you are using different tyres up front and in the rears how do you do your rotation?