Rotary engine oil...
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You mean you can't find rotary engine oil!?!? Its everywhere...
SnooK_B said:
13btt,
I think he would like the expert to recommend him a brand. . . . Trusted brands from you guys....
What about castrol mineral?
I think he would like the expert to recommend him a brand. . . . Trusted brands from you guys....
What about castrol mineral?
13btt said:
Rotary engine needs oil that burns clean (oil is injected into combustion chamber!)
Ok sorry I always love this Q - its in my top 10 along with how far does 1 tank of petrol go.
I use Mobil S 10W40 semi-synthetic with good results - I had very little carbon build up when I opened my engine. Others use Shell Helix blue bottle also with good results.
If you are really worried about excessive carbon build up in your rotors / apex seal grooves causing low compression due to seized apex seals and/or detonation then your best bet is Redline Full Synthetic oil at 10W40 also. This has minimal or no ash content and hence burns 100% clean. However, 1 change will set you back about RM200!
Ok sorry I always love this Q - its in my top 10 along with how far does 1 tank of petrol go.
I use Mobil S 10W40 semi-synthetic with good results - I had very little carbon build up when I opened my engine. Others use Shell Helix blue bottle also with good results.
If you are really worried about excessive carbon build up in your rotors / apex seal grooves causing low compression due to seized apex seals and/or detonation then your best bet is Redline Full Synthetic oil at 10W40 also. This has minimal or no ash content and hence burns 100% clean. However, 1 change will set you back about RM200!
The standard oem mazda one IMO works just fine...i reckon the other japanese brands are the same just rebadged - i.e. made at the same factory. I use the MX-5 1.8L oil filter.
coolblue said:
Interesting to know. where do you get this oils? Whats the cost? Viscosity? WHat are you average oil changes? AFAIK there are none in the market here in malaysia for turbo rotary application. The RE oils available here are for RX8's. There are too thin and will not withstand temperatures seen by turbo re's.
but i do some research 'idemetsu' is spesificly for rotary engine and i heard from fren some more 'linkspower' also had 'motul' brand available there and also all re oil come perliter only..is that true........?did spesific oil for re sell here???
phat7 said:
the HKS RE oil are make specialy for Rotary turbo ( that is when the nemisis engine not out yet ) , the weight or vicosity should be the correct one to use , RE-AMEMIYA engine oil .. commonly use by ah choy , saw one and ask him .. he say for own use only , I think KSP still have the HKS one ,
if the oil too thin ... the engine rev up faster and an oil cooler will works well ,
i never seen a rotary with a skyhigh oil temp ..
phat7 said:
rojak ? ... not really ... it works well too ... the filter internals hole are smaller compare to the stock mazda unit ... but i dont see there is a problem on the oil pressure ,
but you buy those mazda from parts shop .. they are not really for RE or RX7/8 ...
price of $8 bucks only ... cheaper man
coolblue said:
Ah choy specifically mentioned not to use the RE oils in any rotary turbo engines. He has also specifically said its for RX8. Oil is oil is oil. Let us understand what role oil plays in our engine. Besides lubrication oil also acts to heat transfer from combustion chambers. Oil coolers help cool the oil then its recirculated again and again. This is true for piston engines. You must understand that the rotary engines use engine oil to lube the combustion chamber. Reasoning is the constant apex seal contact with housing can cause friction and premature failure. Thats why you will notice that rotary engines "eat" oil. This is not a defect but by design and the OMP (oil metering pump) see to that. Therefore engine oils need to have the correct weight if its going to protect apex seals and housing. The RE oils ah choy presently has is not capable of sustaining turbo engines due to its inability to
1) Transfer Heat (turbo engines DO generate more heat)
2) Protect the seals and housing (forced induction definitely sees higher wear)
3) Its by design for RX8
SnooK_B said:
Idemitsu is good but you cannot import in small quantities. We have been thinking of ordering in large quantities but still in works. Snook_B just used castrol which ah choy is very comfortable using or you can take the plunge and go semi or fully syn. The choice is yours really. Just remember though regular oil change is the MOST important.
phat7 said:
as long as the oil is non syntetic type , they will works well on rotary ,
omp mix up pretty well in engine , that a regular mineral oil will burn up alittle and left thin film of oil in the housing to lube the apex seal , Renesis engine also has a OMP ...
all RE oils is non syntetic
correct weight of the engine oil is base on heat/temp range of the oil as they are lubricating on the esentric shaft , it doesent concern on OMP oil that injected to the engine , anyway premixing will be much better compare to OMP , lesser carbon deposit on the rotors ,
i got this from http://www.mazdatrix.com/ pls read carefully and give some feedback.......... 
Using Synthetic Oils in Rotary Engines
------------------------------------------------------------
This has got to be one of the most frequently asked questions ever!
Here is our answer:
The Rotary engine has an oil injection system that injects small amounts of oil into either the intake tract, carb, or rotor housing (depending on year/model). This is needed to lubricate the various internal seals and surfaces.
The injected oil MUST BURN, and must burn clean. The root answer to the question is that not ALL synthetic oils burn, and not ALL of them burn clean. (Idemitsu Rotary Engine Oil is the only known exception - see below)
The ones that do not burn accumulate until they foul the spark plugs.
The ones that do not burn clean can leave residues of various substances (like ash? plastic? non-organic sand?) that accumulate until the spark plugs foul, or a seal sticks -- could be apex seal, side seal, corner seal, or oil control ring. The normal consequence of a stuck seal is an engine tear down.
In the many years we have been involved in rotary engines, we have NEVER had a problem with GOOD petroleum based oils. They work fine! They are less expensive than synthetics. (We use Castrol 20-50 GTX). They burn clean, etc. etc.
The problem with answering the original question is that it is NOT a simple yes or no. We DO simplify it to a "NO", but that is because we do NOT know whether the specific brand of synthetic the customer has in mind will work. AND, if it does not work, how long will it be before the damage shows up, and how bad will the damage be? Maybe it will take 10,000 miles, maybe 50,000 miles?? Maybe the engine will fail due to something unrelated to the oil, and there won't be enough left to determine that there was damage from the oil.
WE are not willing to take that gamble, are you ?
Then, take a minute to think of WHY you want to use a synthetic. If a rotary engine (properly maintained, oil changes at 3K intervals, etc.) can still be running fine at over 200,000 miles, the engine does not need any more cooling, the gas milage will not be any better, etc. etc. WHY do you want to spend more $$ and gamble on engine and/or spark plug damage?
We are not chemists, and we do not have the time, $$'s, nor inclination to do 100K mile tests of various synthetics in rotary engines.
The only exception to the above answer is with Idemitsu Synthetic Rotary Engine Oil. Idemitsu has been making synthetic oil specifically for the rotary engine for decades. They have only recently come to the US and we are happy to be able to sell it. We've known about it since the beginning, but it's only been available in Japan. Click here to go to our oil page http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/performancetuning/idemitsu.htm.
We DO use Neo synthetic in the transmissions and rear ends with great results.
Anyway - that is the MAZDATRIX version of the synthetic question
Using Synthetic Oils in Rotary Engines
------------------------------------------------------------
This has got to be one of the most frequently asked questions ever!
Here is our answer:
The Rotary engine has an oil injection system that injects small amounts of oil into either the intake tract, carb, or rotor housing (depending on year/model). This is needed to lubricate the various internal seals and surfaces.
The injected oil MUST BURN, and must burn clean. The root answer to the question is that not ALL synthetic oils burn, and not ALL of them burn clean. (Idemitsu Rotary Engine Oil is the only known exception - see below)
The ones that do not burn accumulate until they foul the spark plugs.
The ones that do not burn clean can leave residues of various substances (like ash? plastic? non-organic sand?) that accumulate until the spark plugs foul, or a seal sticks -- could be apex seal, side seal, corner seal, or oil control ring. The normal consequence of a stuck seal is an engine tear down.
In the many years we have been involved in rotary engines, we have NEVER had a problem with GOOD petroleum based oils. They work fine! They are less expensive than synthetics. (We use Castrol 20-50 GTX). They burn clean, etc. etc.
The problem with answering the original question is that it is NOT a simple yes or no. We DO simplify it to a "NO", but that is because we do NOT know whether the specific brand of synthetic the customer has in mind will work. AND, if it does not work, how long will it be before the damage shows up, and how bad will the damage be? Maybe it will take 10,000 miles, maybe 50,000 miles?? Maybe the engine will fail due to something unrelated to the oil, and there won't be enough left to determine that there was damage from the oil.
WE are not willing to take that gamble, are you ?
Then, take a minute to think of WHY you want to use a synthetic. If a rotary engine (properly maintained, oil changes at 3K intervals, etc.) can still be running fine at over 200,000 miles, the engine does not need any more cooling, the gas milage will not be any better, etc. etc. WHY do you want to spend more $$ and gamble on engine and/or spark plug damage?
We are not chemists, and we do not have the time, $$'s, nor inclination to do 100K mile tests of various synthetics in rotary engines.
The only exception to the above answer is with Idemitsu Synthetic Rotary Engine Oil. Idemitsu has been making synthetic oil specifically for the rotary engine for decades. They have only recently come to the US and we are happy to be able to sell it. We've known about it since the beginning, but it's only been available in Japan. Click here to go to our oil page http://www.rotorsportsracing.com/performancetuning/idemitsu.htm.
We DO use Neo synthetic in the transmissions and rear ends with great results.
Anyway - that is the MAZDATRIX version of the synthetic question
Last edited:
can yall xplain to me detail wut is this pic all about??
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/attachment.php?attachmentid=52085&stc=1
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/attachment.php?attachmentid=52085&stc=1
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