ICE questions... :)

54321

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hehe.. im a newbie in I.C.E so pls teach me something bout it.....:
1) what is the difference between an expensive amp and cheap amp? for example a rm250 and rm 1k amp? both same watts..
2)if buy a 4 channel amp n plug those channel to stock front and rear speakers whats the difference??
3)how to knoe which amp to buy for a woofer..?
4)anyone heard of the brand caliber amp? er the 2000w 4 channel amp. what does the what means? or how to see those rms?\
 
answer

54321 said:
hehe.. im a newbie in I.C.E so pls teach me something bout it.....:
1) what is the difference between an expensive amp and cheap amp? for example a rm250 and rm 1k amp? both same watts..
2)if buy a 4 channel amp n plug those channel to stock front and rear speakers whats the difference??
3)how to knoe which amp to buy for a woofer..?
4)anyone heard of the brand caliber amp? er the 2000w 4 channel amp. what does the what means? or how to see those rms?\
1st question: expensive amps, the watts they show like 2000watts is more or less is the same, but the cheap one they tell u is 2000 watts but sometimes it can go up to only a 1000watts or less. the difference is the quality of components they use in the amps, if cheap amps maybe u can use it like for two years or less then kong already.
2nd question: u can do that depends on the power of the amps if too high the speaker cannot tahan the power u can hear a very pecah sound and maybe ur speaker can koyak.
3rd question: if for woofer (a big magnet one) go for a monoblock amps (is good for the boom-boom sound), b'coz the is specially made for hentam the woofers. if ur sub is just those with small magnet go for a cheap amps also can.
4th question: i'm using the caliber 2000 watts amps just for my single woofer and what i can isay it's so best ohhh....

i hope that explaination is enough for u, if u want the technical explaination maybe u can wait for the experts to give u comments!
cheers dude.
 
1) the difference is that the cheap wan is somehow over rated...lets say they say 600watt max..i guess it can only reach <50rms @4 ohm...its based on the chipset..
where else for instance the rocksford fosgate amp..its under rated..means 600 watt max..can really reach it wan..sometimes even over 600 watts under certain condition.

2)if u wanna use a 4channel to play front n back..i guess the sound wun be good on stock speakers...most likely the speaker will bocor...(i suggest u use L & R each one channel for front only...bridge the remaining 2 channel to hit a woofer)

3)based on the RMS specs..some monoblock amp can go hit up to 1500rms...but if the sub can only support 600 rms..then the power like a bit wasted lo..better get a good sub woofer once n for all...use monoblock n hit..
 
thanks for all the reply man.... er... i saw them selling caliber amp.. your is it the rm 350 1? good ar?? thinking of buying tht also... whats the specs ar?
 
er?? any recommendation? how much consider good? haha... basic basic play only... not to go for competition 1... lol
 
1) its kinda vague to classify amp as cheap/ expensive...
a cheap 2nd hand amp can be good also.. :D
maybe the right word to use- good brand/ lousy brand?
or branded/ non-branded?

2) 4-channel amp can b used to drive the front & rear speakers.. in terms of power, depends on the speakers/ amp wattage specs

3) this one abit tough, man.. there's no fixed answer.. eg. an amp with 200W rms can drive a 400W rms sub, so as an amp with 400W rms can drive a 400W rms sub.. but in terms of power, the latter sub will perform more efficiently :cool:

4) the wattage stated on the caliber amp may be peak eg. maybe 2 ohm stable, bridgeable with output of 2000W?
reputable/ reliable brands usually state the rms in da specs..
 
It's hard to say what's good and what's not. You should go listen to people who already have the setup and decide what you want from there. Don't just buy because it looks good and people says it's good.

I got a Helix Dark Blue 2-channel amp and the output is verrrrry clean. Using it to power my front component speakers. A friend who's using Orion HCCA (I think.. or was it another model..) which is much more expensive is using it to power his front comps and in comparison it produces very "dirty" sound. Not very good even though it's more expensive.

So my point is go listen to different amps and setups and choose what you want from there.
 
54321 said:
hehe.. im a newbie in I.C.E so pls teach me something bout it.....:
1) what is the difference between an expensive amp and cheap amp? for example a rm250 and rm 1k amp? both same watts..
2)if buy a 4 channel amp n plug those channel to stock front and rear speakers whats the difference??
3)how to knoe which amp to buy for a woofer..?
4)anyone heard of the brand caliber amp? er the 2000w 4 channel amp. what does the what means? or how to see those rms?\

1...wats the diff btween ur Romp jeans n Levis jeans?;)
2...more powerful...
3...a class D monoblock is ideal 4 subwoofer
4...RMS is the real power output...normally chapalang super over rate their amp...so u can c on top of their amp wit 800watt...1200watt etc...
the easiest way is 2 c the fuse on the amp...
for example...a 4 chn written there 1200watt...but the fuse is 20A onli...
tat means mayb its onli 20wattRMS x 4chn...
 
Yong_5290 said:
1...wats the diff btween ur Romp jeans n Levis jeans?;)
2...more powerful...
3...a class D monoblock is ideal 4 subwoofer
4...RMS is the real power output...normally chapalang super over rate their amp...so u can c on top of their amp wit 800watt...1200watt etc...
the easiest way is 2 c the fuse on the amp...
for example...a 4 chn written there 1200watt...but the fuse is 20A onli...
tat means mayb its onli 20wattRMS x 4chn...


Ermmm....20A does not equal 20w RMS.
The 20A is some sort the max limit of current allowed into your amp but it doesn't mean that the current will be as high as 20amps. It could be 5amps, or 10.25A or...etc etc, but definitely below 20A else your fuse will blow.

If u wanna calculate Power (RMS), always remember to go back to the basics.

Power, P = (Current, I) x (Voltage, V), provided that RMS voltages and currents are used.
 
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.. aiyoyo, rms & fuse are 2 different thing.. the basic use of fuse is it provides protection, to cut off power if there's sudden jump in voltage that the device can't handle... just like ExtremeRC explained
 
omg... im getting mroe confused now.. my fren is helping me buy a woffer with double magnet... the brand im not sure... but something like koka or cobra or coca or somehting like tht.. anyone heard of it?? erm... if the woffer is 500W what amp should i buy? n if din change my speaker.. all stock.. only got 1 pair of tweeter in front.... after installing the woofer will it be wierd?
 
hey there!

54321 said:
omg... im getting mroe confused now.. my fren is helping me buy a woffer with double magnet... the brand im not sure... but something like koka or cobra or coca or somehting like tht.. anyone heard of it?? erm... if the woffer is 500W what amp should i buy? n if din change my speaker.. all stock.. only got 1 pair of tweeter in front.... after installing the woofer will it be wierd?
don't be confused brother! the most importantly try the thing first before u buy it!
btw the caliber amp is good enuff for me!
 
oh haha.... ok... erm.. if i got a woffer how they test the amp for me?? they take the woofer from my car n show me in their car or how? erm... btw what calicer amp you using?? the 4 channel 2kW tht 1?
 
.. cobra? :eek: there r so many brands out there, hard to keep track, man... the sub's brand does not matter if it hits your budget already.. just tune it nicely to maximise the full potential of the stuffs that u already have or plan to get.. find out the sub's nominal rms, 500w may be peak wattage.. then u can shop around for amp.. :cool:
 
hey ya!

54321 said:
oh haha.... ok... erm.. if i got a woffer how they test the amp for me?? they take the woofer from my car n show me in their car or how? erm... btw what calicer amp you using?? the 4 channel 2kW tht 1?
yes the one in the thread one, and i just use it for my single 12'' sub (caliber revolution), it's damn powerful enuff for me larr...........
but now my bass in my car is damn loud i have to add another maybe some speakers in the front. in the back i have four speaker already, (recently i've change car, so all my sepakers does'nt have enough space to put in)
back about u the shop, they have their way to test the amp for u, but try to buy a branded one leee.......
u won't regret it.
 
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aiyo... everyone also want branded lar... budget not enough lar... haha... really cannot tahan already.. how much you bought tht caliber amp ar?
 
ShinChan is letting go a pretty good PYLE amp. I don't know about you but I think this brand is branded as far as audiophilers are concerned. And it's cheap. Rm200 for 350 RMS bridged is quite powerful already.

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/showthread.php?t=31279

Pity it's damaged. But only RCA damage.. so can easily fix.
 
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Scuse me, just piggyback this thread, since god knows why the forum says I have duplicate threads in the ICE forums while I don't see even one coming up.

Does ICE cause a certain amount of power loss for your car?

I'm not sure if its just me, but after installing a woofer and an amp, my car feels slightly sluggish. Is this just my imagination or? If this is true, then how can I resolve this problem? Currently have a Votech VS installed, will it be better if I installed grounding cables?
 
.. there were some dispute whether grounding cable & voltage stabiliser can increase a car's HP.. usually there are cases where the head light with be dimmed when the audio volume is cranked up higher.. but power loss that affect the car's performance, psychology effect, perhaps? ;)
 
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