Airtrek Turbo (CU2W) Engine (4G63T), tranny and drivetrain swap to Lancer 2008

I was told by a reliable source that the Greddy Profec boost controller is not reliable. When new it'll work well but over time it'll start to cause boost spikes and overboosting issues. One case he showed me was a skyline showing 1bar boost but the ecu was reading over 1.5bars of boost! The supposed best way to manage boost control is via the ECU, just use the profec as a display for extra cool-factor points
 
I was told by a reliable source that the Greddy Profec boost controller is not reliable. When new it'll work well but over time it'll start to cause boost spikes and overboosting issues. One case he showed me was a skyline showing 1bar boost but the ecu was reading over 1.5bars of boost! The supposed best way to manage boost control is via the ECU, just use the profec as a display for extra cool-factor points
wait wut......
 
I think throttle input might be the best way in boosting CVT due to the gearbox revs also react to drivers throttle input. What's your suggestion ?

He's done up a few Evo 7 and 3s, what are you looking at ?

But if you floor it from mid rpm then you will get full boost at just mid rpm too. Actually for my Profec setup, I can even get full boost at just 70-80% throttle maybe. But again this is because I set my Set Gain value as close as possible to the target max boost which what the recommended setup if using this Profec.
I was told by a reliable source that the Greddy Profec boost controller is not reliable. When new it'll work well but over time it'll start to cause boost spikes and overboosting issues. One case he showed me was a skyline showing 1bar boost but the ecu was reading over 1.5bars of boost! The supposed best way to manage boost control is via the ECU, just use the profec as a display for extra cool-factor points
Hmm so far what's indicated in my Profec still matches what's shown on my mechanical boost gauge and also ECU when we did on road tuning. Based on what I read, the most important is setting the Set Gain, make sure that you start from lower value (4psi lower than target max boost) then progressively increase while testing. Once you see the boost starts to spike past your target max then you have overdone it and need to decrease it until it holds the boost at target max but not spiking over. So far on mine, my high boost setting is at 80% with Set Gain 1.45b, ends up holding max boost at 1.67b. Btw I'm still using internal actuator wastegate rated at 1.3b. I don't experience any boost creep either meaning I haven't overboost my turbo.
 
But if you floor it from mid rpm then you will get full boost at just mid rpm too. Actually for my Profec setup, I can even get full boost at just 70-80% throttle maybe. But again this is because I set my Set Gain value as close as possible to the target max boost which what the recommended setup if using this Profec.

The objective of my swap or mods, it is to get up to speed without having to full throttle or rev the crap out of it, unless i am racing somebody. Even in my 1jz i don't usually floor it unless i have to. I am looking into a steady and smooth boosting. Eh wait ... what happen to my swap topic ? Why it became BOT thread ? Please come back to main topic.

Bad or good news, mechanic friend said don't bother with Airtrek turbo swap, the engine mount from 4g63 to the body is totally in different places. Gearbox also is entirely different too and none of it can be bolt on the chassis without cutting it up.

"Dream" shattered. Hahaha.
 
The objective of my swap or mods, it is to get up to speed without having to full throttle or rev the crap out of it, unless i am racing somebody. Even in my 1jz i don't usually floor it unless i have to. I am looking into a steady and smooth boosting. Eh wait ... what happen to my swap topic ? Why it became BOT thread ? Please come back to main topic.

Bad or good news, mechanic friend said don't bother with Airtrek turbo swap, the engine mount from 4g63 to the body is totally in different places. Gearbox also is entirely different too and none of it can be bolt on the chassis without cutting it up.

"Dream" shattered. Hahaha.
memang dah beritau pon @_@
 
LOL can lar, i am still in my 30's by 2025. Now i am working towards building a small business, to make more money to support my expensive hobby lol.
Should be the other way around. Make money when you're still young, spend it once it's stabilized and churning the big bucks in 2025.
 
LOL ... No thanks. Don't want another 6 cyl engine to maintain.
Buy a beater and use that as a project. Like an old Mitsubishi Lancer A174 and start playing from there. The A174 is SR20 friendly, CA18 friendly, 4G friendly and with the right bodykit the A174 can look pretty retro sporty cool.

If not the A174 then the Nissan Sentra B13. Those are lightweight, fits a plethora of 4-potter engines and have lots of retro cool to them.
 
Should be the other way around. Make money when you're still young, spend it once it's stabilized and churning the big bucks in 2025.

Er my current income is ok lar since i am able to support my E46 1jz mods, so now i am working towards building my own business for something even bigger, for eg, start a tuning company after my trade business goes stable and cash flow is good enough to invest in another business.
 
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Buy a beater and use that as a project. Like an old Mitsubishi Lancer A174 and start playing from there. The A174 is SR20 friendly, CA18 friendly, 4G friendly and with the right bodykit the A174 can look pretty retro sporty cool.

If not the A174 then the Nissan Sentra B13. Those are lightweight, fits a plethora of 4-potter engines and have lots of retro cool to them.

I am looking back at BMW E39 with V8 swap, a 1UZ with 6 speeder manual. Pseudo M5 !
 
LOL can lar, i am still in my 30's by 2025. Now i am working towards building a small business, to make more money to support my expensive hobby lol.
That is why 5 years plan, you get more RM and hopefully the half cut prices goes down......lol
 
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