Radiator & Radiator Fan Mods...

stutzedward

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I had my stock radiator swapped out for an aluminium one October last year. I did that for 2 reasons. First is because my original fan controller is spoilt, even when I start on a cold morning, the fan wil be activated all the time. Then my stock radiator is due for change cos I can see that the plastic top looks brittle. I do not want it to burst during long journeys.

So the radiator is aluminium type + sensor driven fan controller. I have never really measured the temperature until last week when I got my son a new cellphone, I took his old one and bluetooth-connect with my OBDII reader (which I bought to check engine codes last time) and took a trip out of town. I was pretty impressed.

Observations
- On hot afternoons traffic jam, the highest water temp reached was 88c.
- On hot afternoons driving, it hovers around 77c-80c
- On cloudy afternoons driving, it hovers around 69c-76c
- On rainy days, it goes as low as 65c.

I think this mod is important especially those who is running bigger turbos and higher boost. Cooler engine will reduce pinging.

Intake temp however was high cos I am using open pods.
- On hot afternoon jams, 66c!
- On hot afternoon drivings, 45-55c.
- Rainly or cloudy afternoon drivings - 36c-45c.

I may need a Cold Air Intake I guess. I might also swap back my old airbox and test it.]


Hot afternoon traffic jam.
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Sensor located on the cut-out of radiator pipe to drive the fan.
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Me driving with OBDII Torque app running. Hehehe..

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Looks good.

How is it an Airtrek specific alloy rad or do you have separate cooling for the transmission?

The factory fan speed control modules fail to fully on - but eventually even in that state they will fail to off, so you may want to get a new one. IIRC its only about $50.
 
It's Airtrek specific. The aluminium radiator comes with oil cooling fins at the bottom too just like the original. However, the capacity is much bigger as it's thicker.
 
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Air intake temperature is high but you got intercooler mah.......:biggrin:

even got intercooler still if heat soaked like sitting at traffic light/jams...the moment we need power to accelerate when the light turns green...it still pinging quite noticeable..since no air movement to cool the intercooler when sitting still...
 
Yup... so that's why it'll be good if there's water injector at the intercooler like stock Evo 8/9.
 
good stuff stutzedward,

as for the intake topic, i'll chip in with some facts,
our Renault Clio RS hits 70c with stock intake during traffic or at idle for a good few minutes. Hovers 60c at very slow traffic
No matter stock or now with a stainless downpipe located on the firewall side.

So i am unsure if it'll make much difference if you swap the stock box back,

do update us your findings

nice seeing the torque app being used properly. I only use it to clear errors at the mean time
 
good stuff stutzedward,

as for the intake topic, i'll chip in with some facts,
our Renault Clio RS hits 70c with stock intake during traffic or at idle for a good few minutes. Hovers 60c at very slow traffic
No matter stock or now with a stainless downpipe located on the firewall side.

So i am unsure if it'll make much difference if you swap the stock box back,

do update us your findings

nice seeing the torque app being used properly. I only use it to clear errors at the mean time

Thanks Tom. I'll keep y'all updated.

Yup, I bought the OBDII to check & clear error for my RX8 actually and I hardly use it until now. It's good to see the car running 'cool'.

---------- Post added at 05:52 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 05:49 PM ----------

Oh yes, one more mod I made for the cooling effect.

I lifted the hood slightly. I also removed the rubber lining above the firewall where it seals the gap between the hood and the upper firewall.

On rainy days / cold mornings, I get mist on the windscreen even during idling. Which means hot air is escaping from the lifted hood, which I think contributes to better cooling efficiency.
 
great,

hope your hood lift looks good, I'm supportive of this almost free mod but i've seen bad examples where the angle of the bonnet messing the frontal appearance of the car
 
There you go... it's almost not noticible from front :)
 

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Yup... but this mod works for our hot weather pretty well even idling. Not to mention driving.
 
I see.... I used to lift my old Satria almost 1" last time but was unable to pop the hood if I pull the lever. Anyway, this is fine.
 
wahhh... 1" really high worrrr.....

even my satria with mivec hood...i just lift it around 10-12mm (thickness of a 14mm nut) <- 4pcs for 4hood bolt

for scooby i didnt do any hood lift..since top mount intercooler removed and utilizing front mount ic now...so the hood is the massive vent hole when stationary (as well as massive forced-fed cooling scoop pushing hot air downwards underneath the car)
 
Yup 1" was high and I used to get knocks on my window during traffic light stops that I did not close my hood properly. Hehehe... many good samaritans out there.
 
wahhh... 1" really high worrrr.....

even my satria with mivec hood...i just lift it around 10-12mm (thickness of a 14mm nut) <- 4pcs for 4hood bolt

for scooby i didnt do any hood lift..since top mount intercooler removed and utilizing front mount ic now...so the hood is the massive vent hole when stationary (as well as massive forced-fed cooling scoop pushing hot air downwards underneath the car)

But aerodynamics very bad woh!......:smokin:
 
But aerodynamics very bad woh!......:smokin:

in scooby actually they forced the air from scoop then passing intercooler then exit thru the bottom of the car to aid airflow underneath the car :biggrin:


but didnt bother with aerodynamic mainly because forester already boxy-typed design... :rofl:
 

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