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How I blew by RB26DETT....please share

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How my RB26DETT blew............

  • Heavy foot AND cornering Junkie (High RPM Drift King?)

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • I blame Nissan ...(oil pump/collar issue)

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  • I could not resist turning up the BOOST.....now my GTR is NA....

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  • Never Blown - I have done all the mods.. :-)

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Johnny_9

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Please share with fellow forumers how you blew your RB26DETT......
 
RB25DET can mix?

i blew my 2nd and 5th pistons in late 2007..
currently still in RB26DETT transplant progress..

how?
heavy foot, pursuing an BNR34 plet 20 at kuantan-jabor highway..
 
Johnny_9, you're the poll king. :redface:
 
My RB26 didn't blow.. but went for preventive surgery anyways.. and the car is still in the shops waiting for parts..

After having opened the engine, we could see the Nismo crank and piston bearings were shot.. we're assuming that the crank and/or block has become off-balanced..

The engine had been rebuilt at L**** in 2006 but only traveled about 2kkms since then. Who or what is at fault for the dying engine?

Some told me about horror stories related to blown engines after being rebuilt at the said workshop, but then I can't comment on that as I've never been a customer to the said workshop.

I personally feel that the oil pump was on the way out as I was having low pressure since I got the car. On why the oil pump wasn't changed during the '06 rebuild is beyond me.

Anyhow, putting in N1 pumps and other stuffs while the car is on the hoist. Need to source for another block and internals too..
:hmmmm:
 
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Temujin ...could do a favor for me?After you take out the engine bearing and conrod bearing give me
the designated parts no on the bearing following by piston arrangement.
Then also no printed on crankshaft and top engine block..... :)
 
Temujin, how did u find out u had those problems beside low oil pressure? any other symptoms?
 
Temujin, how did u find out u had those problems beside low oil pressure? any other symptoms?

Just go to the tomei website; lots of pics, showing oiling issues of RB26DETT under prolonged high rpm (oil get trapped in the head and cannot flow back to the sump). Also #6 cylinder gets hotter & back turbo can get hot......that why VSPEC2 got NACA duct; See what ek_elleh said...chasing a GTR on the highway....high BOOST, high BOOST, then
 
Temujin ...could do a favor for me?After you take out the engine bearing and conrod bearing give me
the designated parts no on the bearing following by piston arrangement.
Then also no printed on crankshaft and top engine block..... :)

I think I could get the no for the engine and conrod bearing provided it's still lying there.. but following piston arrangement a bit hard bro.. it's everywhere in the box of failed bearings hehe.. I'll try though..

Will get back to u with those numbers on Monday as we're having a long weekend :biggrin:


Temujin, how did u find out u had those problems beside low oil pressure? any other symptoms?

Having some issues with low oil pressure when I drove to the car to work, plus engine dies due to blowoff issue too (needs ecu retuning or plumback).. So as it goes, I went to my regular shop to initially just get a standalone ecu and resulted in having the block opened as my mech heard some rustling in the block during engine-on which he thought may be a clue to some hanky panky going on..

Which unfortunately was true.. :help:
 
So L**** do hanky panky job huh?

bad reputation for such a nice company! haha.
 
So L**** do hanky panky job huh?

bad reputation for such a nice company! haha.

Engine was last rebuilt there and only traveled slightly more than 2kkms and there was some hanky panky going on with the bearings..

As I said I believe that the oil pump wasn't changed before (wasn't stated as changed in the previous receipt) and it was on the way out, which may have caused low oil pressure and thus shot bearings.. more mileage and I would expect a seized engine..

But I would stop short of saying that the shop did a hanky panky job as I've never dealt with them in terms of engine rebuilds. People have told stories.. whether or not it is true remains to be seen..

Nevertheless, I'm having the engine rebuilt again and hopefully the Gojira gets to ride again soon.. :burnout:
 
I think I could get the no for the engine and conrod bearing provided it's still lying there.. but following piston arrangement a bit hard bro.. it's everywhere in the box of failed bearings hehe.. I'll try though..

Will get back to u with those numbers on Monday as we're having a long weekend :biggrin:

Hahaha ok, bit unfortunate..... if not can analyze the cause of bearing failure....might on your bearing itself or crankshaft.

Anyway just give the code,myb i can give you the answer.
 
Hahaha ok, bit unfortunate..... if not can analyze the cause of bearing failure....might on your bearing itself or crankshaft.

Anyway just give the code,myb i can give you the answer.



Just FYI, some of the crank bearings were falling off the block instead of supposedly seated nicely during removal of the crankshaft..

Was told by the mech that the crank (and the block too perhaps) had gone off balance resulting in shot bearings..

Anyways, will go to the shop to get those numbers for you.. Cheers bro :burnout:
 
Yes im totally agree with Rakzakzsa...and also the important thing to take care is the Oil engine. Last time im using Torco oil but I realize that the oil is thin and become lesser when regularly drive. So I do research what is the suitable oil for the GTR engine. And lots of GTR owner said that they are using castrol egde. So I did try the said oil and it’s proved. Till now im using the said oil...but recently I quite grotesque why my oil pressure is low. When I warm up the engine, supposedly the oil pressure indicator show at the middle of the meter but now one bar fall. Any idea or advise? Do your car have a same reading?
 
Yes im totally agree with Rakzakzsa...and also the important thing to take care is the Oil engine. Last time im using Torco oil but I realize that the oil is thin and become lesser when regularly drive. So I do research what is the suitable oil for the GTR engine. And lots of GTR owner said that they are using castrol egde. So I did try the said oil and it’s proved. Till now im using the said oil...but recently I quite grotesque why my oil pressure is low. When I warm up the engine, supposedly the oil pressure indicator show at the middle of the meter but now one bar fall. Any idea or advise? Do your car have a same reading?


My 32R had low oil pressure upon warm up, around 1 bar or slightly less. The oil pressure continued to go lower after a few days hence prompted me to send the car to the shop.

In my case, I think the oil pump was on its way out as it wasn't documented if the pump had been changed before. I assumed it still was using the original pump ever since it came out of the factory in 1991.
 
Just FYI, some of the crank bearings were falling off the block instead of supposedly seated nicely during removal of the crankshaft..

Was told by the mech that the crank (and the block too perhaps) had gone off balance resulting in shot bearings..

Anyways, will go to the shop to get those numbers for you.. Cheers bro :burnout:

if the bearings is not seated properly when u remove the crank most probably you have bend your crank due to insufficient oil to lubricate the bearing n crank or oil temp is too high.. so i think you have to look into those 2 area first to prevent it happening again
 
if the bearings is not seated properly when u remove the crank most probably you have bend your crank due to insufficient oil to lubricate the bearing n crank or oil temp is too high.. so i think you have to look into those 2 area first to prevent it happening again



I agree. The mechs also mentioned the possibility of a bent crankshaft and may also resulted in a distorted crankcase as well.

Searching for a replacement crankshaft and block would be a solution, but getting a used one may result in a lottery. If I'm unlucky, getting a similar bent crankshaft and distorted block would prove costly as well..


So I'm opting for a new crate engine to rectify this (perhaps a long block or maybe just a short block will suffice) but need a couple of months before funding is available :vollkommenauf:
 
My 32R had low oil pressure upon warm up, around 1 bar or slightly less. The oil pressure continued to go lower after a few days hence prompted me to send the car to the shop.

In my case, I think the oil pump was on its way out as it wasn't documented if the pump had been changed before. I assumed it still was using the original pump ever since it came out of the factory in 1991.

don't rely on the stock oil press gauge on the dash bro.. mine also show low oil press all the time like yours.. i think the sensor has kaput after 20 years hehe.. now i've install aftermarket oil press meter after i blew my engine similarly like what happen to yours and only now i can see my oil press showing 4-8 bar of oil pressure when driving where the stock oil press gauge show 2-3bar.. upon warm up my stock oil press gauge show 1-2 bar (sometime lower) and my aftermarket oil press gauge show 6-7 bar consistently.. when idle after engine is warm the aftermarket gauge consistently show 3-4 bar where the stock gauge shows 1-2bar (sometime lower).. morale of the story is dont trust your stock oil press gauge since our car is too old alredy heheh
 
don't rely on the stock oil press gauge on the dash bro.. mine also show low oil press all the time like yours.. i think the sensor has kaput after 20 years hehe.. now i've install aftermarket oil press meter after i blew my engine similarly like what happen to yours and only now i can see my oil press showing 4-8 bar of oil pressure when driving where the stock oil press gauge show 2-3bar.. upon warm up my stock oil press gauge show 1-2 bar (sometime lower) and my aftermarket oil press gauge show 6-7 bar consistently.. when idle after engine is warm the aftermarket gauge consistently show 3-4 bar where the stock gauge shows 1-2bar (sometime lower).. morale of the story is dont trust your stock oil press gauge since our car is too old alredy heheh



Yep, I agree.. :biggrin:

Looking for suitable aftermarket gauges, though would prefer an all-in one solution like the Defi-Link Display or new Defi Advance ZD.. and perhaps having it mounted like BNR34's MFD..

Hurm.. VSD X also interests me as previously I had the VSD Concept in my ex180SX..
 
Was your vehicle RB26DETT with twin Garrett TE270 p/n 466071, oem# 14411-05U22 ?
these come with ceramic turbine wheel heads which are very fragile and with stock boost and will break over 1bar/14.7psi boost.
RWC turbochargers can supply/fit conventional inconel 713C replacment shaft/wheels.
www.turbocole.com
Regarding oil for turbo vehicles- 15w40 or 20w50 semi synthetic for this tropical climate is the way to go. visit www.rockoil.com
Only Volvo recommend a fully synthetic oil for their twi turbo 4x4's.
Cheers
Rick
 

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