Hello Guest! Log in or Sign up for a full experience & ad-free!

Coil-On-Plug(Non CDI, PNP type)

  • See what others are reading now! Try Forums > Current Activity
  • Search function more powerful with google results! Try Search

pangyau

1,000 RPM
Senior Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2009
Messages
1,157
Points
1,683
Location
Malaysia
Hi all,

Any of you tried Coil-On-Plug(Non CDI, PNP type)?
Reason of looking due to miss-fire.
1. While on WOT (Wide Open Throttle) at RPM4-5K.
2. Normal cruising then sudden accelerate to overtake.

Done:-
1. Change the plug & check the gap (NGK BPR8EIX)
2. Check the hoses & change my IC piping (upper/lower).
Before & After IC ping change….Still the same.
3. Change the plug cable to NGK & Stock.
4. Clean the Throttle Body (TB).

The ride is stock condition.

Last bet is the Ignition Coil problem.
No option to test/borrow from other E owner.
Probably need to buy then test again.
For COP, which is suitable (brand, price & available in here?)
 
H22-C,
This unit only available in US.
Actually looking forward from any local source/review.
 
Sparktech have in Singapore also ... some of the vendors bring in. Otherwise Okada Plasmas.
 
PabloIceman,
Could you guide me where in SG & estimated price.

Any body use it before...?
 
Base on my reading (on Net).
The CDI unit require aftermarket ECU to control/utilise it.
The the unit have different set E1-E8 than for E9.
According to Spark Tech website it seem not compatible on E8MR.
 
Last edited:
With all this aftermarket Coil (the price very subjective).
What are the positive/negative impact on the stock ride?
Any comment very much appreciated.
 
CDI can be used with all cars irregardless if using stock or aftermarket ecu. So long as the CDI box can take the signal from your igniter or ecu. What is not compatible is the coils. CDI will not work with certain coils with a build in ignitor. In d CT9A case, you will need to replace the coils to "dumb" COP type coils or get a compatible OEM coil from d pajero family to work. Mitsubishi is using wasted spark so a CDI box will work with it if it can take the signal. It is when you want to go to sequential and this is where you will need an ECU that can do this and to control timing and dwell time.

You OEM coil is just fine. I would only go COP if planning for CDI and sequential and with pencil coils. Just using COP alone may not offer much benefits. Again this depends on the coils. The pencil/AEM/sparktech type coils are better than you typical COP like the ones on car now. Just get the OEM one if your car is stock. Don't bother with the china made ones. Get original or OEM Types.

Evo's are well known to have ignition coil problem due to the heat of the engine bay. Oh, also check your CPS - cam position sensor. Did you relocate the battery and how is the grounding.
 

Attachments

  • 423137_10150625531187367_800517366_9047609_750530300_n.jpg
    423137_10150625531187367_800517366_9047609_750530300_n.jpg
    115.1 KB · Views: 158
  • 750530300_n.jpg
    750530300_n.jpg
    115.1 KB · Views: 132
for Okada Plasmas, it does not work with standalone ECU. that's what i heard.
just in case if u change to standalone in future.
 
AlucarD,
The battery still at original position.
The grounding, I had extra by using Sun Auto Ingnition Blade.
Cam Position Sensor (CPS) possibility the culprit?
What reason the sensor to be faulty/damage?
I'll check it later...

CDI systems probably suitable to modded+high power engine.
Also swapping to Pajero parts & try and error cannot be done at this time.
That's the reason for Non-CDI type as my preference.

Take note on your recommendation on Pencil/AEM/Sparktech

H22-C,
Any review could you share about the unit?
Just PNP & remove the existing coil?... How about the wiring/socket?
Saw a few E owners at my place, their Okada burn due to few reasons.
As the unit is expensive, so I need to be careful on choosing.

Standalone for stock ride...? some said is wasted modded to me...
As the ECU are expensive...
 
Last edited:
Friend, a faulty cps will cause misfire as well. But it will be very apparent across all rpm range. Your case is most probably coil related. No harm checking. The sparktech system is a very good unit albeit overpriced. I prefer HKS DLI if u retain the stock coil or if you go CDI. M&W or Dynatech's. But you will need new coils. A budget system will be some MSD tower coils. You can rewire them to work. They can be had for RM600-700. But you will also need some plug wires and depending on some people. The engine bay may look cluttered.
 
for Okada Plasmas, it does not work with standalone ECU. that's what i heard.
just in case if u change to standalone in future.

err, i am running on Okadas and also on Standalone ECU ...
 
Update,

Tested with other stock coil/plugs/cable plugs from a friend.
Still having problem during WOT or at RPM 7k.
Exhaust produce popping sound around & small black smoke for around 2-3 seconds.
Sounds like miss firing...

Please advice me what other thing to do.
 
bro,

You said i/cooler piping already checked and changed. Did you do boost leak check?
I also having the problem like the car jerking when you crusing suddenly you want to accelerate.
After doing the boost leak check, i ended up changing 2 i/cooler hoses and several clamps.
Now it improves alot with boost 1.3 bar. With 1.5 bar suddenly accelerate, still got this kind of jerking but not much.
 

A Post Every 5 Mins

Hi guys,

I just bought this CF Hood for my car and it doens't sit right along the fender line. Any of you got this problem before?

Fitment is fine (good gap, shuts properly, etc) just that on the side it sits higher -.-

Pics:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30957612@N03/

Any info would b great.

Cheers

Online now

Search

Enjoying Zerotohundred?

Log-in for an ad-less experience
Top Bottom