Let me start by saying I own a carvox cx-999 alarm, which from what I found is a re-branded RadioStar King Eagle. I understand that I am not entitled to any help since this is not one of your alarms. What I would like to point out is that I had no idea what different brands there were to begin with, I simply got on eBay and looked for an alarm system with excellent features at a great price.
So AFTER I purchased this excellent alarm and got to installing, I started running into problems and realized that the company has little to no support compared to radiostar. If I were to ever purchase another alarm system I would be purchasing it from radiostar for sure. So any help you could give me would be much appreciated.
So far I have managed to install the alarm and the door sensors, shock sensor, unlock, lock, siren... all of that is working, and it seems to be working great! The remote lets me know when something happens as well. The problem I am having is the remote start will not work, I have heard of people having trouble with it not working in the cold, it will try for a second fail, then the alarm goes off. This is not my problem, I push the star and the unlock button, and I get a picture on the LCD of a clock, and alarm clock, and a blinking speaker with sound coming out of it. These pictures are on the LCD for a few second, then they go out and nothing at all has happened, it’s like the remote starter didn’t even try.
I have installed everything myself, I used a Fluke voltmeter to test which wires were the correct wires to tap into. I am proficient with this tool when I know what to look for. What should I test for on the wires off the brain? I can only assume that a professional installer would diagnose each of the signals used by the remote start module to see if it’s even getting a signal to go.
Below is a description of the wires and what I have installed so far:
(The ones with a * before them are ones I did not hook up to anything, or believe may be hooked up incorrectly but not sure what to do.)
5 Heavy Gauge Starter Harness in the Starter Module (ignition Switch Interface)
Purple Wire: Starter Output(+). (Connected to starter wire on ignition)
ORANGE WIRE: Accessory Output(+) (connected to heater/AC accessory wire on ignition)
PINK WIRE A: Ignition Output(+). (Connected to wire on ignition with +12v when on and when cranking)
PINK WIRE B: Ignition Output (+). (Connected to wire with on ignition with +12v when on and when cranking, yes two of my wires on the ignition do this)
RED WIRE: Main Power Input (+). (Connected to ignition wire with +12V always)
7-pin Connector Secondary Harness for Remote Start (H4)
Pin1-3: Factory wiring to the remote start module. (Plugged into brain)
* pin4: BLUE/WHITE WIRE: (-) 200ma bypass output when remote start. (Left unhooked, shouldn’t need, no factory alarm that I can find.)
* pin5: GREY/BLACK WIRE: Diesel wait-to-start bulb input. (Left unhooked, shouldn’t need, my car is not diesel)
* pin6: BLACK/WHITE WIRE :(-) Neutral Safety Witch Input. (Wired to a chassis ground) (my car is a manual, but for as long as I have driven a car I have never used the gear to lock it in place, I have always used the parking break with the car in neutral because the first car I ever owned had an alarm already installed, this is just instinct to me now, Later I plan to install a magnetic switch to the shifter that shows ground when the car is in neutral)
pin7: VIOLET/WHITE WIRE: Oil Sensor signal (Default). (This is wired to the wire that sends the signal to my tachometer, the manual says I should get between 1V to 6V (AC) at idle I get 3.5V to 4.5V which coincides with my cars idle fluctuation. If I give my car gas and rev it up to say 3,000 RPM it is well over 8V though.)
10-Pin Connector Primary Harness (H1)
pin1: BROWN WIRE: Siren Output (+) (wired to red wire of siren and black wire of siren is grounded to chassis.)
* pin2: WHITE WIRE: Parking Light Output (+/-) (unhooked, having trouble figuring out which wire to tap this into, its just so that the parking lights blink, ill figure it out later, right now my primary concern is why the remote start will not work.)
* pin3: VIOLET: Unlock #87a Normally Closed. (Left unhooked, shouldn’t need)
pin4: BLUE/BLACK: Unlock #30 Common (Output) (wired to ground wire used to signal unlock to doors)
pin5: BROWN/BLACK: Unlock #87 Normally Open (Input) (wired to a chassis ground)
* pin6: VIOLET/BLACK: Lock #87a normally closed. (Left unhooked, shouldn’t need)
pin7: GREEN/BLACK: Lock #30 Common (Output) (wired to ground wire used to signal Lock to doors)
pin8: WHITE/BLACK: Unlock #87 Normally Open (Input) (wired to a chassis ground)
pin9: RED: Constant +12V Input. (Connected to ignition wire with +12V always)
pin10: BLACK: System Ground. (Wired to a chassis ground)
6-pin Secondary Harness for Outputs (H2)
* pin1: ORANGE WIRE: Armed Output (-) 500mA. (Starter defeat, anti grind) (Left unhooked, optional?)
* pin2: BLUE WIRE: Second unlock (passenger unlock) (left unhooked, optional?)
* pin3: WHITE/BLACK WIRE: Auxiliary Channel 5 Output (left unhooked, optional?)
* pin4: PURPLE/BLACK WIRE: Auxiliary 4 Output (left unhooked, optional?)
* pin5: BLACK/WHITE WIRE: Dome Light Output (left unhooked, optional? what would this even be for?)
* pin6: RED/WHITE WIRE: Vehicle Trunk Release Wire (left unhooked, optional?)
8-pin 2510 Harness for Inputs and Outputs (H3)
* pin1: GREEN/BLACK WIRE: Factory Disarm Output (-) 500mA (left unhooked, shouldn’t need, no factory alarm that I can find.)
* pin2: GREEN/WHITE WIRE: Factory Rearm Output (-) 500mA (left unhooked, shouldn’t need, no factory alarm that I can find.)
* pin3: BLACK WIRE: Optional Sensor Input (such as trunk pin switch) (left unhooked, optional)
* pin4: GREY WIRE: Hood Pin Input (-). Connect this wire to the hood pin switch, the switch must supply a ground output (-) when the switch is opened. This input will disable or shut down the remote start when the hood is opened. It will also trigger the security system if the hood is opened while the system is armed. (Left unhooked, shouldn’t need, no hood pin yet came with alarm, I will get one later so people don’t steal parts out from under my hood.)
* pin5: BROWN WIRE: Brake Input (+). Connect to the wire that shows +12v when pressing the brake. The brown wire is a safety shutdown wire that must be connected. (Left unhooked, shouldn’t need, I am not even sure what the purpose of this wire is, so if the break is pushed what shuts down exactly when this is hooked up)
pin6: YELLOW WIRE: (+) Ignition Input of the key cylinder to alarm. (Connected to wire on ignition with +12v when on and when cranking)
pin7: GREEN WIRE: Negative Door Input (-). (Connected to wire that shows ground when any door is opened.)
* pin8: PURPLE WIRE: Positive Door Input (+). (Left unhooked, shouldn’t need, I used the negative door input to sense when doors are opened.)
PERIPHERAL PLUG-in CONNECTORS
7-pin white connector: two-way Transceiver Communication Port (plugged into brain)
3-pin Black connector: Optional Sensory Input (unhooked for now, I have a microwave sensor, but don’t want to try hooking it up till I get everything else working the way it should)
2-pin white connector: LED port. (Plugged into brain)
So AFTER I purchased this excellent alarm and got to installing, I started running into problems and realized that the company has little to no support compared to radiostar. If I were to ever purchase another alarm system I would be purchasing it from radiostar for sure. So any help you could give me would be much appreciated.
So far I have managed to install the alarm and the door sensors, shock sensor, unlock, lock, siren... all of that is working, and it seems to be working great! The remote lets me know when something happens as well. The problem I am having is the remote start will not work, I have heard of people having trouble with it not working in the cold, it will try for a second fail, then the alarm goes off. This is not my problem, I push the star and the unlock button, and I get a picture on the LCD of a clock, and alarm clock, and a blinking speaker with sound coming out of it. These pictures are on the LCD for a few second, then they go out and nothing at all has happened, it’s like the remote starter didn’t even try.
I have installed everything myself, I used a Fluke voltmeter to test which wires were the correct wires to tap into. I am proficient with this tool when I know what to look for. What should I test for on the wires off the brain? I can only assume that a professional installer would diagnose each of the signals used by the remote start module to see if it’s even getting a signal to go.
Below is a description of the wires and what I have installed so far:
(The ones with a * before them are ones I did not hook up to anything, or believe may be hooked up incorrectly but not sure what to do.)
5 Heavy Gauge Starter Harness in the Starter Module (ignition Switch Interface)
Purple Wire: Starter Output(+). (Connected to starter wire on ignition)
ORANGE WIRE: Accessory Output(+) (connected to heater/AC accessory wire on ignition)
PINK WIRE A: Ignition Output(+). (Connected to wire on ignition with +12v when on and when cranking)
PINK WIRE B: Ignition Output (+). (Connected to wire with on ignition with +12v when on and when cranking, yes two of my wires on the ignition do this)
RED WIRE: Main Power Input (+). (Connected to ignition wire with +12V always)
7-pin Connector Secondary Harness for Remote Start (H4)
Pin1-3: Factory wiring to the remote start module. (Plugged into brain)
* pin4: BLUE/WHITE WIRE: (-) 200ma bypass output when remote start. (Left unhooked, shouldn’t need, no factory alarm that I can find.)
* pin5: GREY/BLACK WIRE: Diesel wait-to-start bulb input. (Left unhooked, shouldn’t need, my car is not diesel)
* pin6: BLACK/WHITE WIRE :(-) Neutral Safety Witch Input. (Wired to a chassis ground) (my car is a manual, but for as long as I have driven a car I have never used the gear to lock it in place, I have always used the parking break with the car in neutral because the first car I ever owned had an alarm already installed, this is just instinct to me now, Later I plan to install a magnetic switch to the shifter that shows ground when the car is in neutral)
pin7: VIOLET/WHITE WIRE: Oil Sensor signal (Default). (This is wired to the wire that sends the signal to my tachometer, the manual says I should get between 1V to 6V (AC) at idle I get 3.5V to 4.5V which coincides with my cars idle fluctuation. If I give my car gas and rev it up to say 3,000 RPM it is well over 8V though.)
10-Pin Connector Primary Harness (H1)
pin1: BROWN WIRE: Siren Output (+) (wired to red wire of siren and black wire of siren is grounded to chassis.)
* pin2: WHITE WIRE: Parking Light Output (+/-) (unhooked, having trouble figuring out which wire to tap this into, its just so that the parking lights blink, ill figure it out later, right now my primary concern is why the remote start will not work.)
* pin3: VIOLET: Unlock #87a Normally Closed. (Left unhooked, shouldn’t need)
pin4: BLUE/BLACK: Unlock #30 Common (Output) (wired to ground wire used to signal unlock to doors)
pin5: BROWN/BLACK: Unlock #87 Normally Open (Input) (wired to a chassis ground)
* pin6: VIOLET/BLACK: Lock #87a normally closed. (Left unhooked, shouldn’t need)
pin7: GREEN/BLACK: Lock #30 Common (Output) (wired to ground wire used to signal Lock to doors)
pin8: WHITE/BLACK: Unlock #87 Normally Open (Input) (wired to a chassis ground)
pin9: RED: Constant +12V Input. (Connected to ignition wire with +12V always)
pin10: BLACK: System Ground. (Wired to a chassis ground)
6-pin Secondary Harness for Outputs (H2)
* pin1: ORANGE WIRE: Armed Output (-) 500mA. (Starter defeat, anti grind) (Left unhooked, optional?)
* pin2: BLUE WIRE: Second unlock (passenger unlock) (left unhooked, optional?)
* pin3: WHITE/BLACK WIRE: Auxiliary Channel 5 Output (left unhooked, optional?)
* pin4: PURPLE/BLACK WIRE: Auxiliary 4 Output (left unhooked, optional?)
* pin5: BLACK/WHITE WIRE: Dome Light Output (left unhooked, optional? what would this even be for?)
* pin6: RED/WHITE WIRE: Vehicle Trunk Release Wire (left unhooked, optional?)
8-pin 2510 Harness for Inputs and Outputs (H3)
* pin1: GREEN/BLACK WIRE: Factory Disarm Output (-) 500mA (left unhooked, shouldn’t need, no factory alarm that I can find.)
* pin2: GREEN/WHITE WIRE: Factory Rearm Output (-) 500mA (left unhooked, shouldn’t need, no factory alarm that I can find.)
* pin3: BLACK WIRE: Optional Sensor Input (such as trunk pin switch) (left unhooked, optional)
* pin4: GREY WIRE: Hood Pin Input (-). Connect this wire to the hood pin switch, the switch must supply a ground output (-) when the switch is opened. This input will disable or shut down the remote start when the hood is opened. It will also trigger the security system if the hood is opened while the system is armed. (Left unhooked, shouldn’t need, no hood pin yet came with alarm, I will get one later so people don’t steal parts out from under my hood.)
* pin5: BROWN WIRE: Brake Input (+). Connect to the wire that shows +12v when pressing the brake. The brown wire is a safety shutdown wire that must be connected. (Left unhooked, shouldn’t need, I am not even sure what the purpose of this wire is, so if the break is pushed what shuts down exactly when this is hooked up)
pin6: YELLOW WIRE: (+) Ignition Input of the key cylinder to alarm. (Connected to wire on ignition with +12v when on and when cranking)
pin7: GREEN WIRE: Negative Door Input (-). (Connected to wire that shows ground when any door is opened.)
* pin8: PURPLE WIRE: Positive Door Input (+). (Left unhooked, shouldn’t need, I used the negative door input to sense when doors are opened.)
PERIPHERAL PLUG-in CONNECTORS
7-pin white connector: two-way Transceiver Communication Port (plugged into brain)
3-pin Black connector: Optional Sensory Input (unhooked for now, I have a microwave sensor, but don’t want to try hooking it up till I get everything else working the way it should)
2-pin white connector: LED port. (Plugged into brain)
