EVO III to 400hp

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Feb 7, 2007
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Hello Guys,

A good deal has fallen on my lap and I have the option to purchase an original Lancer EVO III for quite a good price. My goal is quite simple, I'd like to have at least 400 crank hp. I know next to nothing about these cars so my question to you guys is this:

1) How easy would it be to achieve 400hp & 500hp.
2) What components are required for the upgrade assuming the car is absolutely stock.
3) Would there be reliability issues with those hp numbers (clutch excluded ofcoz)

Thanks for your feedback guys.

Ryan Parker
 
EvoIII is a legendary monster.shuld be no problem for upgrade i think as most of part u can rojak with VR-4 summore.a lot of aftermarket part is still available for ur evo as long u have $$$$$
 
Hmmm..Dewa...Long time no see.,...

EVO III = Ah Kit Cyber Evo....I think he is the gud guy to talk for 400hp mods...
 
rparker,

1st of all, welcome u to our MLOC forum!!! :_: Hopefully u do stay ard here n do more posting to share!!!

1) How easy would it be to achieve 400hp & 500hp.
- Mmm... not easy to acheive 400 - 500hp Evo... It take lotsa times, effort and of cause lotsa $$$ to do so... I think it wil b ard 3-4 wks time depends on how pack de workshop job currently hv had... Besides, i estimating at least RM50k for such a project!!! And this pricing is EXCLUSIVE of bodykit $$$ (here wil b another RM15-20k gone) n brake system upgrade (easily another RM20k for front 6 n rear 4 pots brake)...

2) What components are required for the upgrade assuming the car is absolutely stock.
- Stroker kit, turbo kit, fuel system, intercooler kit, big radiator, big injectors, full exhuast system, air intake system, racing plugs + cables, racing clutch, stand alone ECU n other electronic meters...

3) Would there be reliability issues with those hp numbers (clutch excluded ofcoz)
- Reliablility depends alot on the tuner n de owner drving style... If its done by an expereince tuner, 95% ur car wil b very reliable for few yrs driving except for wear n tear thingy... As for owner driving style, its very hard to say... Hehe... It really depends on how hard u r driving this monster day in day out...

But beware, v do hv forumers complaining 1 shop in Sunway, where they r known for blowing customer engine (4G63 engine) not for once but few times dy... Hopefully u r not gonna send ur car there...

Cheers!!! :_:
 
What shop is this that is well known for blowing customer's engine? Why mention it but leave the name out? How will people take precaution then ? =P
 
ok , since u gonna get a evo3 to pump it up
im nt a genuine evo3 user, bt i do have a wira with an e3 engine
hope i am a eligble to shoot my opinions here

ok , evo3 runs on a very high compression ratio which is the highest among all the evo's , 9:1 , while the evo1&2 run on 8.5:1 , evo newer evo's run 8.8:1 ,
to run higher boost first of all u need to lower ur compression
on my stock e3 , i got 301whp , thts about 350-360 on crank i guess ,
bt thts on 2wd , td05 16g from the e3 is best turbo between e123, its codded "big 16g"
there is a weakness for the e123 , which is the conrod , the conrods are too thin for high hp application , thts the reason they opt for vr4 blocks , the conrods are very very thick compared to evo's , vr4 block has brought ppl into 400hp with stock block even in the US which they call DSM. One thing u have to put in a metal gasket to reduce ur compression , MMC has 1.5mm , cometic has 1.3mm , hks , toda ..... bt the fallback of vr4 blocks is that the compression is very low , and wiht a metal gasket it becomes even lower, drivability on vacuum sux , bt on high boost application WELCOME HELLBOY

if u wish to make a beast n u got the cash, then
ok lets start the basics

fueling , u need a fuel regulator , higher flow fuel pump prefered walbro original
stronger pipes, throw the rubber ones and get stainless steel or aluminium ,
as for tuning u got a few choices, retune ur stock ecu using drax chip or get standalone like megasquirt , microtech , haltech , do know that the stock blow off valve tends to leak above 0.9bar , get greddy type-s or type-r for the most reliable thing , nt ssqv man

thats the basic things tht u need, here is the rest

if u got the cash , for the engine
eagle conrods or any other forged pistons , forged pistons as well
as for the crank, the crank will be good no worries., get a good metal gasket

if u dnt want to spend so much , then get a vr4 block , put a metal gasket n u r ready to go , bt remember that if u get forged pistons , u can get higher compression ratio ones

if u want to build a 500hp machine , the easiest source would be plonking in a
4g64 2.4block with a 2jz or vg30 piston , tht will bring u far ,
bt if u got the cash of cos brian crower 2.3 stroker n toda 2323 awaits u

to compliment ur engine , of cos u need a turbo
16g rates up to 360-380hp , 20g ranges 380-420hp ,
next would be a garrett 46trim , 50trim , 57trim , 60-1trim would bring u from 300-450hp
if u want quick spool u got gt30r n gt35r from 400-500hp

u want more discussion bout e123/vr4 , just click my nick n check up my post
we do discuss them on other sections
 
400hp on engine easy la (sap sap sui la)

400hp on engine=roughly around 320 on wheel(4wd)

1:how easy?if got $$ everything easier.:X-:

2:parts u need

part 1:hks 272 cam+adjustable pulley+valve spring=rm3k+

part 2:walbro 255 litre fuel pump rm5++

part 3:thicker metal gasket to lower compression rm1k+

part 4:stand alone ecu,depends on what brand ranging from rm3k to over rm10k

part 5:turbo.for stock evo 3 turbo,u can send the turbo to upgrade to bigger fin.costing below rm2k i think,if dun wan upgrade then get garrett gt30 ball bearing turbo kit with wastegate and manifold at around rm6k

part 6:electronic boost controller rm1k+

part 7:evo 3 stock injector 510cc,get evo 5 or 6 injector 560cc(enaugh if u use upgraded stock turbo,dun think enaugh for gt30)

part 8:adj fuel regulator

part 9:a good tuner.

etc:open pod filter,bigger exhaust piping,racing plug cable,racing plug below rm2k

3:reliability wont be an issue if it was properly tune,and parts properly install

with all those parts,u can safely boost around 1.2bar and get that power

last time my my evo 4 dynoed at 305whp(4wd),so around 370-380 on crank

boosting 1.2bar

the spec was

stock head and block(no port polish or lighten crank)
stock turbo
custom made manifold
hks 272 cam
hks twin power
1.2mm metal gasket
sard fuel regulator
arc intercooler
apexi power fc
560cc injector
walbro 255 fuel pump
etc mod racing plug,racing plug cable,exhasut and so on
 
Last edited:
Ooopppsss... My fault!!! Hehe... I thought i saw de thread starter saying Evo VIII... So all my info is abt Evo VIII n not Evo III... Haha... Pai seh!!! :_:
 
jinkl,

Good sharing ! and 301whp on stock e3 is damn high !

Can share how much you boosting to arrive @ 301whp on your e3 engine on dyno ? Stock specs for e3 is at 276ps @ crankshaft so that should ard 230whp.

U using 1.5mm gasket ? And i suspect u got a good ecu to go with it..hehe. Are you ?
 
heres my dynograph

IMG1.jpg


stock head and block(no port polish or lighten crank)
stock turbo
custom made manifold
hks 272 cam
hks twin power
1.2mm metal gasket
sard fuel regulator
arc intercooler
apexi power fc
560cc injector
walbro 255 fuel pump
etc mod racing plug,racing plug cable,exhasut and so on
 
Wow!:mouth_closed: ...nice power curve there!....bravo!
 
What shop is this that is well known for blowing customer's engine? Why mention it but leave the name out? How will people take precaution then ? =P

Well, experience in workshops and tuner houses is entirely a personal experience... prefebably we do not want to mention or discriminate the workshop in the forum. Some say "XYZ" workshop SUCKS!!! while another will proudly say his car is tuned at "XYZ" workshop.... precaution taken is depending on your demand from the shop. Tell you honestly 95% of mechanic's in Malaysia did'nt graduate a PHD in Sports car modding school from Japan or America. So it's really an experience that you will need to go through..."if you are comfortable with them then go ahead"... "if you are not comfortable.. move on and get another opinion or find another place" it's as simple as that... it's like people debating or arguments about places/parts.. some say good and some say bad... advise is always try by doing some simple stuff.. maybe installing a turbo timer or headlight bulb or even a simple service... check out price and compare with other friends or even with other workshops... expensive does'nt mean they are good or cheap does'nt mean they are fantastic!!.... it's what it's worth that matters.. some willing to pay RM1k for a RM200 job... and they are happy doing so... some pay RM200 and expecting a RM1k job and later condeming them....and what justification is that? absolutely nothing... just yourself, your ride and your $$$!!!..... so advise is just go try it out and see if you are happy with it lor.....

cheers!!
 
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