Hi ! I replaced brake pads and disc rotor for my car recently and I am gonna do a simple write up bout it here. I know that there are already threads similar to this, but well, the more the merrier isn't it.
1. These are the new brake pads and rotors that I put in. The rotor to be replaced was OEM but I was already using Trestor Advantage.
2. Yes you would need some tools.
a. A jack
b. Jackstands
c. Wrench
d. Sockets
e. Mallet (I got hammer only, gonna wrap it with a cloth)
f. G or F clamp
g. Breaker bar (optional but recommended)
h. Brake cleaner (optional)
i. Flat head screwdriver
j. Lubricant WD40
k. A pail, cable tie, or rope
3. Yeap, start with loosening the wheel nuts. Dont loosen them all the way before jacking the car up. I usually loosen them in criss cross manner so the wheel pops out evenly.
4. After loosening the wheel nuts, jack the car up and put jackstands below to support the car. This is a must. Alternatively you may use the scissor jack but it is always recommended to use proper jackstand instead. And make sure your parking brake is pulled up (if you are doing the front brakes. If you are doing the rear, put something solid underneath the front tyre to prevent it from rolling).
5. To remove the pads, you gotta remove either the bolt circled in yellow. Or you may also remove both if you want. Once you remove one of the bolts, the another bolt will act as a hinge to the knuckle. Be careful with the brake hose (highlighted in red) as you dont want to put excessive pressure on it or accidentally pulled that thing off and mess up everything. Therefore I often remove the bottom bolt so the knuckle can be rotated up and there is ample of space for the brake hose to bend.
6. This is when you use the flat head screwdriver. Pry the old pads off! See the difference between the old pads and the new ones?
7. Make sure you remove the backing plates from the old pads and put them onto the new one. Some brake pads manufacturers provide the plates as well.
8. Now, to remove the caliper, take out these two bolts. Caution! They are very, very tight. This is why it is good if you have a breaker bar. Spray some lubricant before you loosen them. I would remove the bottom bolt first, then the top one slowly and carefully coz the whole thing will drop when the bolts are removed
9. Put the caliper on an elevated support (in my case, a nippon paint container). You may tie the caliper with cable tie or rope onto the coil/spring. This is because of the short brake hose and you dont want to break it.
10. Once the caliper is removed, you may take out the old rotor. There are 2 ways - the proper way and the mechanic's way. The proper way is by pushing the rotor out by screw at the hole highlighted yellow in the picture. I wrapped my hammer with a cloth and hammered it out
After that, put in the new rotor and screw in 2 lug nuts to hold the new rotor in position so it would be easy for you to put in the caliper back into place.
11. So, reinstall the caliper and remember to tighten the bolts. Dont go crazy tight! Once the caliper is installed, its time to install the new pads.
12. Before installing the new pads, you gottta push back the piston in. This is due to the old pads which had thinned out, so the new thick pads would not fit in without pushing the piston back to original position. I use a G-clamp and the old pad to push the piston. There are many ways of doing this. Some use screwdriver, some use F-clamp, its up to you which way is the most comfortable and effective to you.
13. Before you push the piston back in, make sure you open the brake fluid reservoir cap to balance the pressure with atmospheric. This will make your job easier. Dont open too much, as moisture would go in.
14. Next is slot in the new pads and reinstall the knuckle and put back the wheels and tighten the wheel nuts and you done !
15. Remember to bed in the brake pads and rotor before driving your car like normal. To do bed in, just drive up to 50-60kph and press the brake slowly until the car stops. Repeat this action for 8-10 times. Don't jam the brake when bedding in as it might cause uneven wear to the rotor or the pads.
Happy DIY !
1. These are the new brake pads and rotors that I put in. The rotor to be replaced was OEM but I was already using Trestor Advantage.
2. Yes you would need some tools.
a. A jack
b. Jackstands
c. Wrench
d. Sockets
e. Mallet (I got hammer only, gonna wrap it with a cloth)
f. G or F clamp
g. Breaker bar (optional but recommended)
h. Brake cleaner (optional)
i. Flat head screwdriver
j. Lubricant WD40
k. A pail, cable tie, or rope
3. Yeap, start with loosening the wheel nuts. Dont loosen them all the way before jacking the car up. I usually loosen them in criss cross manner so the wheel pops out evenly.
4. After loosening the wheel nuts, jack the car up and put jackstands below to support the car. This is a must. Alternatively you may use the scissor jack but it is always recommended to use proper jackstand instead. And make sure your parking brake is pulled up (if you are doing the front brakes. If you are doing the rear, put something solid underneath the front tyre to prevent it from rolling).
5. To remove the pads, you gotta remove either the bolt circled in yellow. Or you may also remove both if you want. Once you remove one of the bolts, the another bolt will act as a hinge to the knuckle. Be careful with the brake hose (highlighted in red) as you dont want to put excessive pressure on it or accidentally pulled that thing off and mess up everything. Therefore I often remove the bottom bolt so the knuckle can be rotated up and there is ample of space for the brake hose to bend.
6. This is when you use the flat head screwdriver. Pry the old pads off! See the difference between the old pads and the new ones?
7. Make sure you remove the backing plates from the old pads and put them onto the new one. Some brake pads manufacturers provide the plates as well.
8. Now, to remove the caliper, take out these two bolts. Caution! They are very, very tight. This is why it is good if you have a breaker bar. Spray some lubricant before you loosen them. I would remove the bottom bolt first, then the top one slowly and carefully coz the whole thing will drop when the bolts are removed
9. Put the caliper on an elevated support (in my case, a nippon paint container). You may tie the caliper with cable tie or rope onto the coil/spring. This is because of the short brake hose and you dont want to break it.
10. Once the caliper is removed, you may take out the old rotor. There are 2 ways - the proper way and the mechanic's way. The proper way is by pushing the rotor out by screw at the hole highlighted yellow in the picture. I wrapped my hammer with a cloth and hammered it out
After that, put in the new rotor and screw in 2 lug nuts to hold the new rotor in position so it would be easy for you to put in the caliper back into place.
11. So, reinstall the caliper and remember to tighten the bolts. Dont go crazy tight! Once the caliper is installed, its time to install the new pads.
12. Before installing the new pads, you gottta push back the piston in. This is due to the old pads which had thinned out, so the new thick pads would not fit in without pushing the piston back to original position. I use a G-clamp and the old pad to push the piston. There are many ways of doing this. Some use screwdriver, some use F-clamp, its up to you which way is the most comfortable and effective to you.
13. Before you push the piston back in, make sure you open the brake fluid reservoir cap to balance the pressure with atmospheric. This will make your job easier. Dont open too much, as moisture would go in.
14. Next is slot in the new pads and reinstall the knuckle and put back the wheels and tighten the wheel nuts and you done !
15. Remember to bed in the brake pads and rotor before driving your car like normal. To do bed in, just drive up to 50-60kph and press the brake slowly until the car stops. Repeat this action for 8-10 times. Don't jam the brake when bedding in as it might cause uneven wear to the rotor or the pads.
Happy DIY !
