Ultra Racing Product??

lancemapei

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Dear All ZTH Bro,

i thinking to add-in full set of ultra racing chassis enhancement bar to my lovely car, but when i group up everything before install total weight up to 30kg, i have feeling........ spending so much for reducing weight then suddenly add up 30kg.... :bawling::banghead:

therefore all bros, any solution???

thanks for all comment.:adore:
 

^pomen_GTR^

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don't use all bar...

just install what u really need to improve your chasis only... :adore:
 

beatnik

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30kg.. that's A LOT.. lol

does your car handles a lot better even after the adding the extra weight? or it just 'feel' better.. your car might go round the corners faster without the bars (less weight).

like ^pomen_GTR^ said, just add where it matters most.. dont la get succumbed by the advertisement and buy all bars.
 

D7zul

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i think the most important thing is strut bar & antiroll bar.. both front & rear..

try that 1st.. if still not satisfy, can consider other bar..

:wink:

---------- Post added at 11:39 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:37 AM ----------

oh ya.. what car u wanna install those bars?
 

jy_1990

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add antiroll bar 1st, then tune the rear and front stiffness of the car depending on understeer and oversteer chracteristics

if it understeers too much, stiffen the rear, if it oversteers too much, stiffen the front
 

lancemapei

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i think the most important thing is strut bar & antiroll bar.. both front & rear..

try that 1st.. if still not satisfy, can consider other bar..

:wink:

---------- Post added at 11:39 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:37 AM ----------

oh ya.. what car u wanna install those bars?
i driving perda-evo,

compere with original eterna strut bar make from aluminium which is much lighter then UR strut bar T.T
 

^pomen_GTR^

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i driving perda-evo,

compere with original eterna strut bar make from aluminium which is much lighter then UR strut bar T.T
original eterna i think lighter...

BUT


UR better in term of rein-forcement because of more mounting point..more rigid.... :adore:
 

D7zul

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original eterna i think lighter...

BUT


UR better in term of rein-forcement because of more mounting point..more rigid.... :adore:

and UR also use thicker bar..

about the weight.. u only need to worry if u r going straight..

for corners.. those bars will help ur lap time :wink:
 

^pomen_GTR^

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S2H..got great deal with go-kart provider? :biggrin:
 

speed2horizon

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S2H..got great deal with go-kart provider? :biggrin:
Nope... In Go Kart, the chassis is the suspension. Our car too, chassis is part of the suspension. Unless ur car is going full track where roads are acceptably flat.

BTW, 30Kgs is equivalent to a 10 point roll cage. might as well go for roll cage.
 

^pomen_GTR^

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Nope... In Go Kart, the chassis is the suspension. Our car too, chassis is part of the suspension. Unless ur car is going full track where roads are acceptably flat.

BTW, 30Kgs is equivalent to a 10 point roll cage. might as well go for roll cage.


i'm not arguing your theory/opinion.....but i got a different view for a car chassis...this is what was i'm thinking...maybe i'm wrong....but at least this is what i think for now...huhuhuhu

the gokart we all know already that it doesn't have any suspension...so the chassis had to be designed in order to allow some degree of flexing in order to maintain tyre contact with the tarmac surface especially on uneven surface....and also since kart doesn't have differential (straight lock axle) the chassis flexing allow the inner side of rear tyre to lift a bit from tarmac surface and induce better turning radius....


as per car chassis, opposed to that,too much chassis flexing would makes the car wobble on rough surface, therefore resulting in poor steering feel and a major headache to tune the suspension.....with stiff chassis,all the bumps/rough surface change can be made only on the suspension setup and the setup change would work more consistently and predictable between changes...thus drivers can get direct feedback on any change/setup he needs easily without wasting valuable time (especially on race day) to test various suspension setup changes......another good example was the F1 car...because of the carbon fiber chassis tub was so stiff,they only need suspension travel of a total less than 5cm (50mm) to get a good mechanical grip...


and this explain why when normal road cars using stiff spring it goes too bumpy on undulated surface...think as the road rough surface was a length of consistent wave graph....and the suspension travel along it with inverted graph..when taking the spring rate and damping rate of the suspension doesn't match the road surface graph, the car simply bouncing over the graph length....it became worse when the car chassis was flexed during the run makes the suspension graph even more inconsistent with the road graph....in this case a pair of fender bar would make a different where it helps hold the chassis stay rigid and not causing any further distraction to the suspension graph versus road surface graph...and this is also what i think where most ppl say their car becomes better in term of comfort after installing chassis reinforcement bar....the suspension do all their busy job without the chassis flexing causing the suspension behave differently from what they intend to do....


p/s: sorry for the long post....feel free to correct me if there's mistake in my post....me also still learning :adore:
 

speed2horizon

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i'm not arguing your theory/opinion.....but i got a different view for a car chassis...this is what was i'm thinking...maybe i'm wrong....but at least this is what i think for now...huhuhuhu

the gokart we all know already that it doesn't have any suspension...so the chassis had to be designed in order to allow some degree of flexing in order to maintain tyre contact with the tarmac surface especially on uneven surface....and also since kart doesn't have differential (straight lock axle) the chassis flexing allow the inner side of rear tyre to lift a bit from tarmac surface and induce better turning radius....


as per car chassis, opposed to that,too much chassis flexing would makes the car wobble on rough surface, therefore resulting in poor steering feel and a major headache to tune the suspension.....with stiff chassis,all the bumps/rough surface change can be made only on the suspension setup and the setup change would work more consistently and predictable between changes...thus drivers can get direct feedback on any change/setup he needs easily without wasting valuable time (especially on race day) to test various suspension setup changes......another good example was the F1 car...because of the carbon fiber chassis tub was so stiff,they only need suspension travel of a total less than 5cm (50mm) to get a good mechanical grip...


and this explain why when normal road cars using stiff spring it goes too bumpy on undulated surface...think as the road rough surface was a length of consistent wave graph....and the suspension travel along it with inverted graph..when taking the spring rate and damping rate of the suspension doesn't match the road surface graph, the car simply bouncing over the graph length....it became worse when the car chassis was flexed during the run makes the suspension graph even more inconsistent with the road graph....in this case a pair of fender bar would make a different where it helps hold the chassis stay rigid and not causing any further distraction to the suspension graph versus road surface graph...and this is also what i think where most ppl say their car becomes better in term of comfort after installing chassis reinforcement bar....the suspension do all their busy job without the chassis flexing causing the suspension behave differently from what they intend to do....


p/s: sorry for the long post....feel free to correct me if there's mistake in my post....me also still learning :adore:
I didn't say leave it flex... What I meant was to allow a certain flexibility instead of completely rigid... And UR bars being installed at each an every part independently will also not hold the car together... It's still not a rollcage.

I have experience cracking my firewall with the 4 points front struct bar... I went back to flexible cusco front struct to allow some movement within...

Just my opinion... Ignore me if u guys disagree.... Chiowww.....
 
Last edited:

D7zul

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I didn't say leave it flex... What I meant was to allow a certain flexibility instead of completely rigid... And UR bars being installed at each an every part independently will also not hold the car together... It's still not a rollcage.

I have experience cracking my firewall with the 4 points front struct bar... I went back to flexible cusco front struct to allow some movement within...

Just my opinion... Ignore me if u guys disagree.... Chiowww.....

crack ur firewall? what car u using?

i have a lil crack on my chassis above my tyre.. passenger side

and i'm using original levin strut & antiroll bar..
 

speed2horizon

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crack ur firewall? what car u using?

i have a lil crack on my chassis above my tyre.. passenger side

and i'm using original levin strut & antiroll bar..
Satria lor... The 4 point was mounted on strict tower and firewall.
 

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