Running without thermostat

sexycar

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Hi..

Anyone here running their car without thermostat in our hot
malaysian weather? How long have u been running without it?
Is it reliable running without thermostat? any problems?
 

TypicalGuy

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running without one....with 2 fan...

no problem now...
 

momosard

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running without thermostat 2years adi.....
when raining the temperature meter will fall down......
in the morning hav to wait for a long time then it will bcome heat//////
 

cmng

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i running without thermostat for 3 year
no problem
during heavy rain the car temp drop till a C level
just under power a bit but what the heck since raining who want to speed ?

it is turbo car . so no issue to get the optimum engine temp
 

wadi

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running since 1999 using SR20DET RWD .
also running at MSS since 2002.
onli have to wait to start in the morning.

peak temp 80 celcius with 2 electric fan
 

TE27levin

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mine also no termostat.. 2 fans run all the time.. morning no need to rev mahh... after reach 55c above the can rev liaw :lol:
 

sexycar

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wow.. u all so happy without thermostat eh? have a read below:

From: Neon John <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Cooling system fact or fiction
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 06:12:19 EDT
Newsgroups: alt.autos.rod-n-custom,rec.autos.rod-n-custom

What some people will say in public. This is absolutely false, of
course. Try to conceive of blowing on something hot, say a spoonful
of soup, first slowly and then more rapidly. Which cools faster?
For extra credit, try imagining the same spoon with first slow and
then fast water moving across the bottom. Sheesh!

The issue with running without a thermostat is two-fold. The first
part is that the thermostat provides drag on the water flow. This
drag increases the backpressure the water pump and all of the engine
sees. This additional pressure, over and above the nominal 15 psi
static pressure the radiator cap sets, raises the boiling point of
the coolant. The reason this is important is that it suppresses
localized film boiling at hot spots such as around the exhaust
port. The transition from nucleatic boiling (bubbles of steam
originating from irregularities on the surface) to film boiling
(where the hot surface is coated with a film of steam) is called
Departure from Nucleatic Boiling or DNB. DNB is very bad, for steam
is a very good insulator compared to water. Once DNB occurs, the
area under the steam gets hotter because the steam doesn't remove
very much heat, adjacent metal which is still wetted heats from
conduction. DNB happens there. The process spreads until
substantially all the coolant-wetted surfaces are insulated by a
film of steam. The engine overheats. In addition, the buildup in
steam pressure forces the radiator cap open, bleeding coolant,
therefore making the situation worse.

The second issue is that of water pump cavitation and surge. If the
pump is operated at high RPM with insufficient head pressure
(provided by the frictional losses in the coolant passages and the
thermostat), there is a great likelihood that the pump will either
cavitate (localized boiling and/or degassing on the impeller) or
surge (an unstable flow regime). Either phenomena is destructive.
Cavitation's collapsing bubbles act like little sand blaster,
eroding away impeller material. Surge can do the same thing and in
addition, can vibration stress the impeller enough to break it.
Many times what looks like corrosion damage to the impeller,
especially when the housing is damage-free, is actually cavitation
damage.

The myth of velocity originated among those unschooled in physics or
thermodynamics, I suppose, because a common racer "solution" is to
press a fixed restriction into the thermostat housing neck when no
thermostat is desired. The conventional (but wrong) wisdom is that
the restriction "slows the water" as stated by the previous poster.
In reality, all it does is provide some more dynamic pressure in the
block by restricting the flow. The exact same result could be
accomplished (assuming the water pump doesn't surge or cavitate)
with a higher static pressure (cap pressure), assuming the system
could withstand it.

John

--
John De Armond
[email protected]
http://neonjohn.4mg.com
Neon John's Custom Neon
Cleveland, TN
"Bendin' Glass 'n Passin' Gas"
 

Doink

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ermmm what can i say...as long as there is no air bubble in ur coolants...running without a termostat is surely better for your car...mine already lost its termostat 4 years ago...where the temperature now goes a bit below the normal temperature for an iswara...with more power and less worry about over heating...besides u no need to worry about the termostat jam which will result in an overheated engine...rite??one more less worry...
 

acbc

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I ran without a thermostat for 4 years... but with 2 electric fans and 80% coolant and 20% water.

No problems... plan to flush the radiator this weekend and top up with better quality coolant. Was using those cheap RM 5 coolant from Brothers... :P
 

TypicalGuy

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Originally posted by BLaCkHoWLiNG@Feb 11 2005, 11:32
ever noticed that yer engine oil gets black very fast if u dont use thermostat?
hmm..

my old car...
engine oil i change today....evening dark liao.

if new car i wont take the thermostat away..
but old car..have to ..coz always overheat
 

Joeker

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I think Thermostat has 3 purpose on an engine.

1. Cold starts.

2. Regulate coolant temperature.

3. Reduce pollutants.
 

AccordRacing

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when u start ur engine,1st ur engine oledi got water inside for circuit liao,then when reach the working temp,then the thermostat open n let the radiator go cycle the whole parts,this sure usefull to protect engine,if not why making this shit?waste time,money n place lar
 

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