Engine Oil Seeping from Rear Main Seal

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My Volvo S60 II uses similar engine to Ford Kuga 1.6T Ecoboost and Ford Fiesta ST Ecoboost plus with Ford Powershift Wet Clutch GB. As far as i traced, most components are shared, just that buying from Volvo vs buying from Ford, the prices are damn big difference.
Then it makes sense, and I would buy from ford then. However my Hyundai share parts with Kia but both are just as expensive, or the dealers making a fast buck.....lol
Make sense by sharing parts to cost down. Now I remember my daughter mention was it for Lambo or Porsche bought parts from Audi.....
 

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Then it makes sense, and I would buy from ford then. However my Hyundai share parts with Kia but both are just as expensive, or the dealers making a fast buck.....lol
Make sense by sharing parts to cost down. Now I remember my daughter mention was it for Lambo or Porsche bought parts from Audi.....
However i need to fully understand the engine design, get another Fiesta ST or Kuga ST side by side with my V and compare them together. Then only that we can physically inspect to see what parts can i get from Ford. So far the only things i bought using Ford parts are oil filters and spark plugs. For example, Ford OEM spark plugs cost me MYR50 per piece, where as Volvo OEM cost me MYR100 per piece. That's twice the amount for buying the samething.

Lambo, Porsche and Audi all owned by VW.
 

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However i need to fully understand the engine design, get another Fiesta ST or Kuga ST side by side with my V and compare them together. Then only that we can physically inspect to see what parts can i get from Ford. So far the only things i bought using Ford parts are oil filters and spark plugs. For example, Ford OEM spark plugs cost me MYR50 per piece, where as Volvo OEM cost me MYR100 per piece. That's twice the amount for buying the samething.

Lambo, Porsche and Audi all owned by VW.
What about part number, differ?

Yup, VW owns many other makes......lol
 

Mitevo7

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Hi Folks,

At least now the oil trap gasket is well sealed. No new oil seeping out from the area, however, we are still seeing a little oil seeping from the bell housing. That means the rear main seal job done by Volvo 3 years ago is sloppy and i have to pay to get it properly done. Since the seep is very slow, is there any issue if i leave it until i need to change my clutch ? I am not going to pay over thousand bucks just to change a seal, might as well as do it together with clutch change or bigger job.

Need some advise.

Thanks,
Ken
 

gunnerzz

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gunnerzz

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Hi Folks,

At least now the oil trap gasket is well sealed. No new oil seeping out from the area, however, we are still seeing a little oil seeping from the bell housing. That means the rear main seal job done by Volvo 3 years ago is sloppy and i have to pay to get it properly done. Since the seep is very slow, is there any issue if i leave it until i need to change my clutch ? I am not going to pay over thousand bucks just to change a seal, might as well as do it together with clutch change or bigger job.

Need some advise.

Thanks,
Ken
If the amt is minimal then no harm in doing the repair later so u can bundle it with whatever due repair which will add more cost. Kinda make paying for the labour worth it. Just need to keep track of the oil level.

BTW, could it be old oil residue from the catch can leak which is accumulated in the bell housing?
 

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I assumed you asked about the spark plugs. Part number isn’t the same but they plug right in.
Spark plugs actually no need original. If under car brands also made by Spark plug manufacturer under OEM. I change plugs between brands all the time. Bosch, NGK and Denso. My chery original were Valeo, 3 electrode type, switch to NGK platinum.....
 

Mitevo7

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If the amt is minimal then no harm in doing the repair later so u can bundle it with whatever due repair which will add more cost. Kinda make paying for the labour worth it. Just need to keep track of the oil level.

BTW, could it be old oil residue from the catch can leak which is accumulated in the bell housing?
It could be, due to the seeping direction is moving from top of the bell housing to the bottom. If my knowledge is correct, RMS leak usually directly coming out at the bottom of the bell housing and it will flood the entire bottom area.

In my case the oil leak was from way above and near the catch can.
 

Mitevo7

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Spark plugs actually no need original. If under car brands also made by Spark plug manufacturer under OEM. I change plugs between brands all the time. Bosch, NGK and Denso. My chery original were Valeo, 3 electrode type, switch to NGK platinum.....
Well for the fun of it, I just checked from both stockist, one is Ford appointed and the other one is Volvo official stockist, just as i expected, it uber expensive to any "Volvo" parts even though sharing with Ford.
 

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Well for the fun of it, I just checked from both stockist, one is Ford appointed and the other one is Volvo official stockist, just as i expected, it uber expensive to any "Volvo" parts even though sharing with Ford.
In other words, it's getting cheaper for you :biggrin:
 

Mitevo7

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In other words, it's getting cheaper for you :biggrin:
Well i have to be very sure of the similarity of both car make's parts. Don't want to put the wrong parts in a supposed premium car.
 

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What could possibly go wrong with an oil separator? So long as the bolts match, I dont see anything else.

What other parts do you mean ?
 

gunnerzz

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Well for the fun of it, I just checked from both stockist, one is Ford appointed and the other one is Volvo official stockist, just as i expected, it uber expensive to any "Volvo" parts even though sharing with Ford.
Of course...need to cover the cost to buy the parts from Ford, ship the part ( eg from US to Sweden ),design the Volvo sticker then pay people to stick the sticker, then only ship to u. Most of the time that Volvo sticker is pasted on top of the Ford sticker...hihihi.

Well at least u know where to get cheaper parts now for yr Volvo...and its not fron Volvo themself.
 

Mitevo7

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What could possibly go wrong with an oil separator? So long as the bolts match, I dont see anything else.

What other parts do you mean ?
Some other parts like sensors, solenoid, gearbox clutches. These are the items i think i might need them in future.
 

Mitevo7

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Of course...need to cover the cost to buy the parts from Ford, ship the part ( eg from US to Sweden ),design the Volvo sticker then pay people to stick the sticker, then only ship to u. Most of the time that Volvo sticker is pasted on top of the Ford sticker...hihihi.

Well at least u know where to get cheaper parts now for yr Volvo...and its not fron Volvo themself.
Yeah true that, OEM from other car make is benefit in terms of cost cutting in R&D and manufacturing but burden us consumers. But in terms of modifications, what works for Ford also works for my V, the engine can be easily tweaked to unleash 220hp. Pretty beffy for a 1.6 Turbo.
 

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Guys just to check,

For camshaft seals, how many are there for a typical inline 4 bangers? Are there any at the other end of the camshaft other than cam gear site ?
 

gunnerzz

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Guys just to check,

For camshaft seals, how many are there for a typical inline 4 bangers? Are there any at the other end of the camshaft other than cam gear site ?
Twincam got 2 at gear site. However some engine which require special tool to hold the camshaft in place (during repair or timing belt replacement ) got another 2 at the opposite like my F4P engine. On my engine, its a screw type plastic plug.
 
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Mitevo7

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Twincam got 2 at gear site. However some engine which require special tool to hold the camshaft in place (during repair or timing belt replacement ) got another 2 at the opposite like my F4P engine. On my engine, its a screw type plastic plug.
I don't think a timing chain engine has cam gear seals no ?
 

parakey

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I don't think a timing chain engine has cam gear seals no ?
This part i dont quite understand. Regardless chain or belt, both have sprockets/gears that turns the camshafts. These shafts protudes outwards from engine head. So why wont timing chain driven heads have seals?
 

gunnerzz

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This part i dont quite understand. Regardless chain or belt, both have sprockets/gears that turns the camshafts. These shafts protudes outwards from engine head. So why wont timing chain driven heads have seals?
Yes but engine with timing chain have the cam gear inside the engine as the chain needs to be lubrication thus no cam gear seal.

Maybe he can check the opposite side for the 'plug' but this plug does not leak easily. Mine is there since 2002 and 202k km. No leak. Last timing belt change my mech said its RM40 a piece...i was shocked until reality struck that i am driving a Renault engine.

My Pajero is on timing chain. No cam seals but there is 2 half moon rubber thing at the front (cam gear) and rear of the engine. Its there so we can access the cam gear bolt from the front and do whatever we want from the rear once the head is on a table.
 
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Mitevo7

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Yes but engine with timing chain have the cam gear inside the engine as the chain needs to be lubrication thus no cam gear seal.

Maybe he can check the opposite side for the 'plug' but this plug does not leak easily. Mine is there since 2002 and 202k km. No leak. Last timing belt change my mech said its RM40 a piece...i was shocked until reality struck that i am driving a Renault engine.

My Pajero is on timing chain. No cam seals but there is 2 half moon rubber thing at the front (cam gear) and rear of the engine. Its there so we can access the cam gear bolt from the front and do whatever we want from the rear once the head is on a table.
Can you show me approx where is the location of the rear engine half moon seal ? Cause i still don need believe that Volvo would do a lousy job when replacing the rear main seal.
 

gunnerzz

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Can you show me approx where is the location of the rear engine half moon seal ? Cause i still don need believe that Volvo would do a lousy job when replacing the rear main seal.
The pic below is the same engine in my pajero which is running timing chain. Notice the black piece where the cam cover meets the engine head. It got that seal at both end.
TB2NgN3ppXXXXXGXpXXXXXXXXXX_!!672515160.jpg

Below is the same engine in my waja which uses timing belt. At the bottom right view angle u can see 2 round black (one bigger than the other )seal/plug at the top portion of the engine. Its to be removed so that the camshaft can be held in place during timing belt replacement.
o1n2-f4p-770.jpg
 

gunnerzz

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That half moon, my 4G63T also have. Always need changing......lol
During early years of ownership of the Pajero i encounter the same thing. Mine was harder to trace as the engine is mounted longitudinally so and the rear end is soo close to the firewall thus searching for the leak is very difficult. After going few seal in few month i manage solve it once and for all after reading the instruction on the grey gasket maker tube.

The instruction says after reintalling the parts back, to tighten lightly and leave it for abt 2hrs before tightening it according to spec. I left it for 1/2 day. No more leak.
On the Pajero i only use the gasket maker at the half moon area. None is used along the valve cover gasket.

Most workshop dont wait as they need to get rid of the car ASAP so other car can come in for repair. The gasket maker if not let to set will be practically useless. Notice when we removes some engine parts which uses this grey gasket maker that some of the grey thing falls of easily. Some require scrapping.
 

Mitevo7

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The pic below is the same engine in my pajero which is running timing chain. Notice the black piece where the cam cover meets the engine head. It got that seal at both end.
View attachment 576288
Below is the same engine in my waja which uses timing belt. At the bottom right view angle u can see 2 round black (one bigger than the other )seal/plug at the top portion of the engine. Its to be removed so that the camshaft can be held in place during timing belt replacement.
View attachment 576289
Do you mean this ? Since mine is transverse layout, by right it should be easy to spot, however there are too many shit hoses in between, so its hard to look at. Do all 4 bangers have this half moon seal and it it quite close to bell housing ?
 

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gunnerzz

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Do you mean this ? Since mine is transverse layout, by right it should be easy to spot, however there are too many shit hoses in between, so its hard to look at. Do all 4 bangers have this half moon seal and it it quite close to bell housing ?
Difficult to say..its different from engine to engine.
 

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During early years of ownership of the Pajero i encounter the same thing. Mine was harder to trace as the engine is mounted longitudinally so and the rear end is soo close to the firewall thus searching for the leak is very difficult. After going few seal in few month i manage solve it once and for all after reading the instruction on the grey gasket maker tube.

The instruction says after reintalling the parts back, to tighten lightly and leave it for abt 2hrs before tightening it according to spec. I left it for 1/2 day. No more leak.
On the Pajero i only use the gasket maker at the half moon area. None is used along the valve cover gasket.

Most workshop dont wait as they need to get rid of the car ASAP so other car can come in for repair. The gasket maker if not let to set will be practically useless. Notice when we removes some engine parts which uses this grey gasket maker that some of the grey thing falls of easily. Some require scrapping.
While the gasket maker is still fresh, over tighten the bolt will squeeze them out......lol
 

gunnerzz

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Ok noted. However is it a compulsory design where this half moon seal is fitted on most of conventional piston engines ?
nope, some just made a curve on the valve cover and made the valve gasket to match curve to eliminate the need for that half moon seal.

i doubt your modern engine will used the half moon seal. It might not even have a valve cover gasket. European engine sometimes just used gasket maker on the valvr cover.
 

Mitevo7

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nope, some just made a curve on the valve cover and made the valve gasket to match curve to eliminate the need for that half moon seal.

i doubt your modern engine will used the half moon seal. It might not even have a valve cover gasket. European engine sometimes just used gasket maker on the valvr cover.
Thats what i am suspecting, no such half moon seal for this engine. Another good thing i noticed, after i repaired the oil separator gasket, there's no oil stain on the ground even after parked the cars for 4 days. Last time used to have few drops of it. Guess the oil separator leak was quite serious back then. So right now i need to keep an eye out on the leaking from top of the bell housing. Wondering are there any more oil passage or hoses up there.
 

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New finding guys, i spotted oil leakage seem to be originate from a so called Vacuum pump around engine head. The pipe is filthy and covered with fresh oil and it travels down to bellhousing area, i have yet to put the car to the mechanic to take a close look as it was buried deep behind lots of hoses and intake pipe.

By the way, what's the vacuum pump for since it isn't engine oil pump?

Thanks,
Ken